How would one know what thickness of bearing to buy. I just took a 4.3 apart and there is play in the rod caps so I'm going to replace the bearings and I'm thinking about installing King pmax bearings because of the ceramic coating. Do you think this is a good choice?
Confused ! Please help , hard a optima 2.4, need to replace engine block but not crankshaft . My own blocked is BBBCB-BBBB but the block I’m buying is BABBA-BBBB can I used this one with new bearings ? Tnx
the analogy that you use are the ones that i always seem to run into yet they don't explain if you're you're trying to build a performance late model vehicle weight bearing in you
What bearing would I use for late model performance? The Tri metal bearing is always brought up when some one says performance build always followed by 60's/70's muscle car...what about 2008ish muscle car?
So, lets say I run cammed alumin heads tri metal is good. Next how does that affect oil weight? If it called for 5-30 a 10-30 ( to keep the bearings wet when the engine is shut off) maybe even a 15-40 (its never below 40 where I live) and I drive hard
Have replaced my crankshaft bearing shells and also replaced the connecting rod bearings. block rotates but a bit heavier than before. is this normal by placing new scales? or should it still run as smoothly as before the repair
De 1st one has for giving material, for people who should change their oil more often, especially if short drives to daycare. Maintaining the PCV system will help as we as an oil catch can, but use use name brand correct valve as this is a calculated vacuum leak except at idle when it closes due to vertical weight or spring. Some are drilled with no valve. The tech should not replace these, just make sure they are clean. 2nd tri-metal bearing are for heavy loads as drawn cold steel shell is electroplated with copper to control thickness and the a high silica % and aluminum are heated, sprayed inside spinning tube with a precise amount to achieve thickness sometimes polished to finish fit. But the silica content is very hard and support higher loads over time and other types. You be happy now! Long time.
The Tri-metal bearings do NOT have a higher load capability! Seriously?? The copper/lead sandwiched between aluminum and stainless steel serves 1 purpose! THERMAL CONDUCTION! Period! Copper being an excellent thermal conductor pulls heat created by the friction between the aluminum top layer and the crank and conducts that heat AWAY from the opposing bearing surfaces and into the stainless steel backer. Automotive parts manufacturers are master snake oil salesmen! Even when they don’t have to be. Meaning: Heat evacuation of the bearing surfaces is an incredibly beneficial attribute of the Tri-Metal bearing. Mahle just doesn’t think their customers are sophisticated enough to understand. Therefore they make-up benefits that will appeal to the market. Watching this video made me loose all faith in this manufacturers credibility.
they do have higher load capacity because of embeddability. they can take some metal on and not take out a crank. bi-metal is NOT good at high loads like boost or heavy nitrous look at what top fuelers use. NOT bi-metal.
I thought you was going to talk about the size I need to know if it's about standard. 20.. 25. 30 under size
Well if you’re getting bearings on an engine that has been unopened then obviously standard because it wouldn’t have been machined.
I have a bearing 0.50 on it does it means the crank was cut to 20 thousand?
perfect, straight to the point. thanks.
Great video guys!!!
More professional knowledge never hurts.
Do the Tri Metal bearings hav e a shorter service life?
How would one know what thickness of bearing to buy. I just took a 4.3 apart and there is play in the rod caps so I'm going to replace the bearings and I'm thinking about installing King pmax bearings because of the ceramic coating. Do you think this is a good choice?
Hi,can Clevite supply connecting rod bearings for an old Douglas SV45 stationary engine? Thanks
Confused ! Please help , hard a optima 2.4, need to replace engine block but not crankshaft . My own blocked is BBBCB-BBBB but the block I’m buying is BABBA-BBBB
can I used this one with new bearings ?
Tnx
the analogy that you use are the ones that i always seem to run into yet they don't explain if you're you're trying to build a performance late model vehicle weight bearing in you
What bearing would I use for late model performance? The Tri metal bearing is always brought up when some one says performance build always followed by 60's/70's muscle car...what about 2008ish muscle car?
Would it be safe to use a standard size bearings if crankshaft wasn't grinded and just lightly polished?
Did you ever find the answer to this question?
So, lets say I run cammed alumin heads tri metal is good. Next how does that affect oil weight? If it called for 5-30 a 10-30 ( to keep the bearings wet when the engine is shut off) maybe even a 15-40 (its never below 40 where I live) and I drive hard
clearances affect oil weight more than the bearing material
driven oil has a chart guide for rod and main clearances for both aluminum and steel
It is a 94s10 , 2.2 liter
I did not learn how to choose size to buy.
Hey mate.
Holden Captiva turbo diesel 2010 bearings anybody help please
Have replaced my crankshaft bearing shells and also replaced the connecting rod bearings.
block rotates but a bit heavier than before.
is this normal by placing new scales?
or should it still run as smoothly as before the repair
Hi sir , me no understand
De 1st one has for giving material, for people who should change their oil more often, especially if short drives to daycare. Maintaining the PCV system will help as we as an oil catch can, but use use name brand correct valve as this is a calculated vacuum leak except at idle when it closes due to vertical weight or spring. Some are drilled with no valve. The tech should not replace these, just make sure they are clean.
2nd tri-metal bearing are for heavy loads as drawn cold steel shell is electroplated with copper to control thickness and the a high silica % and aluminum are heated, sprayed inside spinning tube with a precise amount to achieve thickness sometimes polished to finish fit. But the silica content is very hard and support higher loads over time and other types. You be happy now! Long time.
@@deankay4434 😆👍
The Tri-metal bearings do NOT have a higher load capability! Seriously??
The copper/lead sandwiched between aluminum and stainless steel serves 1 purpose! THERMAL CONDUCTION! Period! Copper being an excellent thermal conductor pulls heat created by the friction between the aluminum top layer and the crank and conducts that heat AWAY from the opposing bearing surfaces and into the stainless steel backer.
Automotive parts manufacturers are master snake oil salesmen! Even when they don’t have to be. Meaning: Heat evacuation of the bearing surfaces is an incredibly beneficial attribute of the Tri-Metal bearing. Mahle just doesn’t think their customers are sophisticated enough to understand. Therefore they make-up benefits that will appeal to the market.
Watching this video made me loose all faith in this manufacturers credibility.
they do have higher load capacity because of embeddability. they can take some metal on and not take out a crank. bi-metal is NOT good at high loads like boost or heavy nitrous
look at what top fuelers use.
NOT bi-metal.