It takes a special kind of mechanic to work on something like this. More patient, more methodical, more careful. Any less of any trait, and the job doesn't get done. You are the man!!!
But everyone usually says older cars were so much easier to work on, and modern stuff is too complicated, difficult to work on, and nearly impossible to repair.
I worked for a Porsche/Audi SAAB dealer until 1999. Our master Porsche/Audi tech had one of these in the same color. It was a beautiful car and he loved it. A lot of techs hated working on the 79-93 SAAB 900s. When I witnessed the hoops and hurdles the Audi guys went through I shook my head. When I saw the front end lying on the floor I asked "what are you doing"? The tech happily replied "a timing belt and water pump". God bless the Audi fanatics. I'll stick with the SAABs. Back in the days before the internet and the on-line service information subscriptions those Robert Bentley manuals were a godsend. They were the best service manuals you could buy. They were written in conjunction with the manufacturers and went into far more depth and detail than Haynes. We sold both Porsche/Audi and SAAB Bentley manuals.
Its nice when you have a customer that not only understands his car he understands the issues with maintaining an older and somewhat rare car. Hope everything continues to go fairly smoothly for you. Looking forward to some troubleshooting once the initial maintenance is finished.
when you do a belt on those you leave the centre crank bolt in and remove the 4 12 point bolts and remove just the pully leaving the belt drive on the crank just a note to help ok
That car is in remarkably good shape for its age and they have the best working on it. I forgot that Audis have the engine mounted longitudinally. GREAT VIDEO!
It's great seeing these older cars on the road and being taken care of. Glad I'm not the only one working on them. Even though it isn't less expensive than buying a new car, it's just cool.
I used to spend the early mornings working alone in Aspen restaurant kitchens repairing cooking ,heating , and cooling equipment. 😂 half of the time working on equipment I had never seen before . The challenge is what made the work enjoyable . I hope that you find the same feeling of accomplishment that I did .
@1:30, that's an owner who is serious about keeping their vehicle running. Factory service manuals for the win. I don't know how good Audi's manuals are but they certainly have to be better than searching endlessly online.
Him driving it daily is the best thing he could do for it. RedKote fuel tank coating is amazing!!! I wouldn't do the A/C without at least replacing the hoses. Keeping my fingers crossed. That's one of those two piece crank pulleys corroded into one. Eric "O" is going to be proud of you!!! LOL!!!! What a mess to just get to the timing belt. Thanks Ivan!
Those 4 Allen bolts in the crank pulley - usually end up with 4 rounded out Allen bolts in the crank pulley. Then where to get new ones. Taking out the big bolt and removing the whole thing with the sprocket still on works just fine.
Thanks Ivan. PHAD really does go good with coffee. ;) I had a Toyota RAV4 come in a couple weeks ago, and I heard it pull up because they had already cut holes in the exhaust. I told her, now the exhaust has to be fixed before I do anything else. So they purchased all 3 converters and brought it to me. I installed all of the parts and it fixed nothing. I called and informed the middle man and he said fix it. Turns out the driver had put a DURALAST MAF in it. I told him that has to be changed for a factory sensor. That cured the running problems. XD "VZ's Garage: We repair what your husband tried to fix." XD
@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics no i have not worked on many Ivan. But i do remember them, i actually realise that i haven't seen one in the wild for many years. They are a rare sight, it makes it even more special that you have a customer using it as a daily driver. The design to get access to the timing belt is actually quite good. Of course this is an old car but back in the day when the bolts weren't seized you could easily removed that front within 20 minutes. After that it's all super accessible. I saw that you removed the central bolt on the crankshaft but if i recall correctly you need to undo the 4 hexbolts. But i realize that might be a challenge after all those years. Looking forward to the next one Ivan. Keep up the great work!
Good job! Brings back memories. Timing belt/water pump is pretty easy - I've done 4. Takes me about 2 hrs. Of course, the last time I did one of these was last century and I had a pile of new fasteners....
The last time I had to deal with a waterpump that was also a tensioner was on 80s Ford Escort 1.6/1.9 engines. I still have the tools needed to set it up. Still a PITA...
I work on tdi's, so vcds is a must-have. Not sure about this old audi, but the adaptation menu will give you way better data. And use advanced measuring blocks menu for graphing.
Good going on taking on such a project! Yes, those old Audis can certainly turn into an adventure.. :-) If you've not got the timing belt job completed yet.. -Absolutely most correct way to find TDC is through the opening on the bell housing on the driver's side. Is mentioned in the Bentley. (The crank pulley/front cover mark is only a 'suggestion' as compared to the flywheel mark, as the crank pully can move, relative to the crank because of the rubber bonding in them pulley shifting. ) -Good going on not undoing the 4 Allen bolts holding the cam sprocket to the pulley. As you say, won't help at all. Not sure why people keep mentioning that detail..? -Most important.. If you got the crank pulley off without using the crank locking tool without damaging the keyway , you are lucky. Bentley *SPECIFGICALLY* says to use the crank lock tool. Weren't you following the step by step instructions in the Bentley? :-) You *DO* need to lock the crank at the crank pulley before messing with the crank bolt. If you don't have a proper locking tool, you can make something to lock the pulley by finding a short piece of pipe the fits on the inner diameter of the crank pulley, cutting a notch to clear the tab, letting the short piece of pipe fit into the pulley properly, and still be hooked by a big pipe wrench.. Then, use a big pipe wrench on the piece of pipe to lock the pulley against the front snub mount when tightening. (Motor doesn't have to be a TDC to tighten the bolt, assuming you've already got it timed correctly). Correct torque setting to use *without* the funky torque extender tool (mentioned in Bentley) that Audi wants you to use is 330 ft/lb. Here's WHY you should use the crank locking too (as mentioned in the Bentley!) : It's actually *not* to lock the crank (you can do that by putting in gear, or locking the flywheel, or a bunch of other things like using an impact wrench) What the lock tool is actually for is to keep the crank pulley from moving relative to the crank, when working on the crank bolt. Look at how the crank timing cog is mounted.. It sees none of the crank bolt tension, but is bolted to the back of the crank pulley. However, the cog *does* have it's fragile keyway to index the pulley. So.. Think of the crank pulley as a really thick washer that is clamped under the crank bolt. When tightening the crank bolt, there is a tendency of the pulley to try and follow the turning of the crank bolt as it gets tight. (thinking of a washer, turning a bit with a bolt you are tightening). Now that fragile keyway on the cog can't take the amount of torque that the crank pulley (unlocked) puts on it, and can crack (either tightening or when undoing the pulley). Without the locking tool to take the load off the keyway (tightening or loosening), the keyway can crack. If all goes will, you'll never notice that the keyway cracked, as the crank bolt is plenty tight. Timing may be a bit off, but probably close enough not to notice. You may only notice the keyway is broken when you do the next timing belt change. It could have been broken for years, but you'd never know until next belt change, as long as crank bolt stays tight. To those who buy the billet cog: Even though it has a stronger keyway (so you *may* get by without the crank lock tool), it won't stop the carnage resulting from the crank bolt coming loose a bit.. If the bolt comes loose, the keyway WILL get destroyed, no matter what timing belt cog you have. The only way you get catastrophic timing belt crash is if the crank bolt comes loose, and no keyway will ever save that.. Use a proper torque wrench (not impact) , the flywheel TDC marks, and lock tool when installing the belt, and you should be good!
When you are working with these vintage of cars, crusties are a major factor in getting the job done in a timely fashion. Like they say( Expect the unexpected). Great job so far Ivan! You have not had to go RAMBO so far!
I bought a 200 FWD sedan for my daughter to drive in college and lusted after a TQA but never bit the bullitt. I eventually sold the 200 to a friend who after driving it for a few years did upgrade to a 200TQA though so I finally got to drive one. I also had the 3 volume service manual and remember that there was a great 200TQA website that covered almost everything one would need to fix on these great cars.
MAPP gas was discontinued in 2008 and it burned at 5300 degrees. The new MAPP Pro [same yellow color] only burns about 130 degrees higher than propane at triple the cost. Save your money.
Happy Thanksgiving, Ivan! What an onion to peel, very painstakingly 🙂 That roller to the side of the water pump, has a suspicious bearing noise. Let's see what Part 2 brings us - should be fun 🙂
Ivan, probably too late at this point, but on my Opel Omega 94 I converted to R134. As for Opel instructions, orifice tube should be changed from white (0.072") to yellow (0.062") due to diferent pressures. I changed almost all components, so just filled with PAG 150 oil and charged about 80% of the mass of R12. Worked like a charm. Here in Brazil due to wheater, we do some tune up on the compressor control valve and orifice tube to blow really cold.
Ah yes, I've been waiting for this one! I should have known it was going to be either a Thanksgiving or Christmas special! Kudos to the owner once again for all the time and care he's put into this one. There is mention below of just undoing the 4 allen bolts on the crank pulley...wrong. You gotta remove the main crank bolt. Anyone thats worked on these (me) and even the service manual states the same, knows this. Nice work on getting the front end off! The smaller chassis cars prior to 1988 dont have that luxury, so you gotta work around the front body structure. Cant wait to see the next episode!
Happy thanksgiving from his side of the pond Ivan you may find it easier to put it back together if you take the four bolts out of the crank pully that way you can split the drive dog off and fit the large bolt and dog back on to set the timing without the outer pully getting in your way just watch out for the Allen headed bolts warm them up in order to help them come loose been a while since I did one of these but I still remember that is the best way good luck.
Nice. Yes in VCDS you can access other info blocks and get data but your right it is very primitive and the info on those blocks is hard to find without awesome manuals like the ones you got there
If you need parts, I live in Germany and there are a few parts left for this Audi, maybe I can help🙂 Audis from the 90s are sooo good quality, wish they would make them not sooo bad today
Is there such a thing as a scan tool archeologist? I think there might be now. Pretty cool convoluted technology for its time. You did an incredible job taking that rusty german puzzle apart with no breakage.
When you consider that all of the parts, and the cost of the labor to do the work only equal a couple of months payment on the ridiculous prices they are asking for the unreliable POS they are producing today. This owner makes perfect sense.
I do like a 5-pot Audi. Current (and for the last 21 years) daily driver is a 1996 A6 C4 2.5 TDI. Both the car and the engine are closely related to this red beast. Timing belt setup on mine does at least have a fixed pump and a proper tensioner. Have done belt several times now and I don’t enjoy it, the harmonic balancer bolt is a monster. Torque to 200Nm then turn a further 270 degrees….. really helps to have the pulley holding tool. I made one a few years back. Curious to see how Ivan gets on doing it back up.
For a very stiff balancer bolt it was known to use the following technique, and I can confirm from personal experience it works. Put an impact socket of good fit on the bolt head of not less that 3/4 drive and a good extension bar under the suspension arm/ sub frame rail and tie it so it doesn't fall off. Pull the relays for fuel pump and ignition and turn the engine over in short 'bumps' the starter will basically screw the bolt out. Just make sure the engine turns the right direction first. Sounds sketchy but done carefully it is simple and effective.
Quite common on this age Audis to use the water pump as tensioner. I have a couple Volvo 240 with D24 Audi/VW Diesel engines. In those the WP is also a belt tensioner.
Another good one, Happy Thanksgiving to all PHAD family. Seeing this make me thankful for living outside of the rust belt and for how much easier domestic and asian vehicles are to work on.
You have to loosen the 4 screws to separate the gear from the harmonic balancer. In newer Audis (i own a 1999 A4, a 2005 A4 and a 2013 Seat Exeo, which is based on 2005-2008 A4), only the 4 screws are loosened when changing the timing belt, the central screw can remain in place. It is only loosened, if the gear wheel has to come off to replace the oil seal. Greetings from Germany.
When you said dirty fuel tank and pump problems I got worried this was the guy who moaned about all the work you charged for when you spent hours diagnosing and stripping down his filthy pump filters! Glad it wasn't the same dude. That guy was insufferable.
Ivan to remove harmonic balancer you dont need to remove centre bolt it can stay with the gear. Just remove those four bolts. They will seperate harmonic balancer from the gear.
Now that the bumper is totally ripped off you better replace that inter cooler radiator as well. And by bolting all together, for at least the bumper, I would use some grease. So that by the next time all comes off jus more easier. Same counts for those hoses on metal. Just spray a petit of silicon grease an der then stick together.
Yep good ol MAP gas. I think it runs about 200 deg hotter than propane ( blue bottle) You can braze with it or solder brass. Even silver solder copper. Radiator repaire as well.
Yes Ivan you’re rt, but you need to take out the 4 Allen bolts to installed the crack timing gear first install the tbelt and then install the crack pulley big bolt as well the 4 Allen bolts otherwise the tbelt installation ill be more difficult.
The good old 5 cylinder crank bolt. It is torqued to 450Nm (332lb-ft). Or 350Nm if you use the VW 2079 extension and tool to hold the pulley in place. Also the woodruff key on the crank pulley tend to crack.
Yes. My self i ow a 97 Volvo S70 manuel. Built it my self, & made it though inspection & fully road leagel after standing for 2 years. & parts car witch neve happend
@@KentuckyReef When the sell your driving habits to your insurance company you might think differently it will count hard braking speed and even corners your car has yaw sensors just fyi.
MAPP gas hasn't been made since 2008, the stuff in the yellow tanks is just propane iwth some propylene added and only burns a little hotter than plain propane, nothing like real MAPP did.
I watched one of Ratchets and Wrenches video working on a newer. Audi he was able to swing the complete front assembly of to one side to gain access to the front of the engine
Well you definitely got your hands full on this Audi. Jigsaw puzzle? Extremely hard to get parts. One wrong move and the rotten plastic parts break, wow HELP! 😮 I really feel for you. Happy Thanksgiving 🎉😅😊
Looking forward to this Ivan!! Got the popcorn ready, nice coffee brewing…….And Action…… ❤ Hey Ivan, I did a dealer HVAC course in the 80’s for this system, I still have the factory manual which shows how to access the self diagnosis on the digital AC display. If your manuals don’t show it let me know and I will copy it for you.
HA so the 4 hr time starts when you get the front off the car off. I like watching you do these jobs that way i'll know not to work on those car's keep up the good work
It takes a special kind of mechanic to work on something like this. More patient, more methodical, more careful. Any less of any trait, and the job doesn't get done. You are the man!!!
But everyone usually says older cars were so much easier to work on, and modern stuff is too complicated, difficult to work on, and nearly impossible to repair.
Ivan, you are a brave man. That old, dry, brittle plastic that is unobtanium would make most mechanics turn down the job. You jump in with both feet.
I worked for a Porsche/Audi SAAB dealer until 1999. Our master Porsche/Audi tech had one of these in the same color. It was a beautiful car and he loved it. A lot of techs hated working on the 79-93 SAAB 900s. When I witnessed the hoops and hurdles the Audi guys went through I shook my head. When I saw the front end lying on the floor I asked "what are you doing"? The tech happily replied "a timing belt and water pump". God bless the Audi fanatics. I'll stick with the SAABs. Back in the days before the internet and the on-line service information subscriptions those Robert Bentley manuals were a godsend. They were the best service manuals you could buy. They were written in conjunction with the manufacturers and went into far more depth and detail than Haynes. We sold both Porsche/Audi and SAAB Bentley manuals.
Those maintenance books are like gold dust - the owner is definitley keeping this car on the road! Amazing
Its nice when you have a customer that not only understands his car he understands the issues with maintaining an older and somewhat rare car. Hope everything continues to go fairly smoothly for you. Looking forward to some troubleshooting once the initial maintenance is finished.
when you do a belt on those you leave the centre crank bolt in and remove the 4 12 point bolts and remove just the pully leaving the belt drive on the crank just a note to help ok
beat me to it hes gona have fun putting back together like that
Nope
Ah yes it's floating crank gear as used on fords now
The aan engine you have to remove the large crank bolt along with the 4 allens
@@blueskiesmobileauto4253hey Josiah is your 5cyl beast Audi ready to rip?? Never touched the 4 seized Allen bolts, belt was happy 😊👌
That car is in remarkably good shape for its age and they have the best working on it. I forgot that Audis have the engine mounted longitudinally. GREAT VIDEO!
Ivan, thanks for taking us on a trip that no one wanted to take. Happy Thanksgiving!
It's great seeing these older cars on the road and being taken care of. Glad I'm not the only one working on them. Even though it isn't less expensive than buying a new car, it's just cool.
Their is a nice learning curve to using VCDS
I used to spend the early mornings working alone in Aspen restaurant kitchens repairing cooking ,heating , and cooling equipment. 😂 half of the time working on equipment I had never seen before . The challenge is what made the work enjoyable . I hope that you find the same feeling of accomplishment that I did .
“Mmmm…. California… beautiful!” (sorry couldn’t help making a Dumb
&Dber reference)
@1:30, that's an owner who is serious about keeping their vehicle running. Factory service manuals for the win. I don't know how good Audi's manuals are but they certainly have to be better than searching endlessly online.
Him driving it daily is the best thing he could do for it. RedKote fuel tank coating is amazing!!! I wouldn't do the A/C without at least replacing the hoses. Keeping my fingers crossed. That's one of those two piece crank pulleys corroded into one. Eric "O" is going to be proud of you!!! LOL!!!! What a mess to just get to the timing belt. Thanks Ivan!
With old cars like this, a two hour job can very easily turn into an all day nightmare!!!
You are a brave man to take on those repairs !
The manuals must have cost the owner a pretty penny. Worth every dollar as far as I'm concerned. It also shows his commitment to his A2Q
By the sound of the engine idling I would’ve thought you were working on a ‘80s - ‘90’s V8 GM car. Running smooth as butter.
Courage, bravery, and years of experience on display. Love watching you work! Happy Thanksgiving!
These multi- part series are great.
Audi and their "service position" - they should mention first you have to "assume the position".
Those 4 Allen bolts in the crank pulley - usually end up with 4 rounded out Allen bolts in the crank pulley. Then where to get new ones. Taking out the big bolt and removing the whole thing with the sprocket still on works just fine.
My cousin owned an Audi coupe that had a 5cyl engine , 5speed , and heated seats . It was a fun car .
Thanks Ivan. PHAD really does go good with coffee. ;) I had a Toyota RAV4 come in a couple weeks ago, and I heard it pull up because they had already cut holes in the exhaust. I told her, now the exhaust has to be fixed before I do anything else. So they purchased all 3 converters and brought it to me. I installed all of the parts and it fixed nothing. I called and informed the middle man and he said fix it. Turns out the driver had put a DURALAST MAF in it. I told him that has to be changed for a factory sensor. That cured the running problems. XD "VZ's Garage: We repair what your husband tried to fix." XD
I was shouting "nooooooo" so hard when you tried to grab that hot bold with those plastic gloves!!!! Luckily that ended well😂
Hahaha have you worked on many of these 80s Audi cars Dan? They are a treat 🤗🤣
@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics no i have not worked on many Ivan. But i do remember them, i actually realise that i haven't seen one in the wild for many years. They are a rare sight, it makes it even more special that you have a customer using it as a daily driver. The design to get access to the timing belt is actually quite good. Of course this is an old car but back in the day when the bolts weren't seized you could easily removed that front within 20 minutes. After that it's all super accessible. I saw that you removed the central bolt on the crankshaft but if i recall correctly you need to undo the 4 hexbolts. But i realize that might be a challenge after all those years. Looking forward to the next one Ivan. Keep up the great work!
Somebody needs to write a letter to the Nobel peace prize people about Ivan and his incredible patience.... :)
I love this series. Owned an 89 10v sedan and it is still oven of my favorite cars ever!
Good job! Brings back memories. Timing belt/water pump is pretty easy - I've done 4. Takes me about 2 hrs. Of course, the last time I did one of these was last century and I had a pile of new fasteners....
The last time I had to deal with a waterpump that was also a tensioner was on 80s Ford Escort 1.6/1.9 engines. I still have the tools needed to set it up. Still a PITA...
I work on tdi's, so vcds is a must-have. Not sure about this old audi, but the adaptation menu will give you way better data. And use advanced measuring blocks menu for graphing.
Im glad they are doing the timing belt.
Now this is content right here. 200 20vT for life
Good going on taking on such a project! Yes, those old Audis can certainly turn into an adventure.. :-)
If you've not got the timing belt job completed yet..
-Absolutely most correct way to find TDC is through the opening on the bell housing on the driver's side. Is mentioned in the Bentley. (The crank pulley/front cover mark is only a 'suggestion' as compared to the flywheel mark, as the crank pully can move, relative to the crank because of the rubber bonding in them pulley shifting. )
-Good going on not undoing the 4 Allen bolts holding the cam sprocket to the pulley. As you say, won't help at all. Not sure why people keep mentioning that detail..?
-Most important.. If you got the crank pulley off without using the crank locking tool without damaging the keyway , you are lucky. Bentley *SPECIFGICALLY* says to use the crank lock tool.
Weren't you following the step by step instructions in the Bentley? :-)
You *DO* need to lock the crank at the crank pulley before messing with the crank bolt. If you don't have a proper locking tool, you can make something to lock the pulley by finding a short piece of pipe the fits on the inner diameter of the crank pulley, cutting a notch to clear the tab, letting the short piece of pipe fit into the pulley properly, and still be hooked by a big pipe wrench.. Then, use a big pipe wrench on the piece of pipe to lock the pulley against the front snub mount when tightening. (Motor doesn't have to be a TDC to tighten the bolt, assuming you've already got it timed correctly).
Correct torque setting to use *without* the funky torque extender tool (mentioned in Bentley) that Audi wants you to use is 330 ft/lb.
Here's WHY you should use the crank locking too (as mentioned in the Bentley!) :
It's actually *not* to lock the crank (you can do that by putting in gear, or locking the flywheel, or a bunch of other things like using an impact wrench)
What the lock tool is actually for is to keep the crank pulley from moving relative to the crank, when working on the crank bolt.
Look at how the crank timing cog is mounted.. It sees none of the crank bolt tension, but is bolted to the back of the crank pulley. However, the cog *does* have it's fragile keyway to index the pulley.
So.. Think of the crank pulley as a really thick washer that is clamped under the crank bolt. When tightening the crank bolt, there is a tendency of the pulley to try and follow the turning of the crank bolt as it gets tight. (thinking of a washer, turning a bit with a bolt you are tightening).
Now that fragile keyway on the cog can't take the amount of torque that the crank pulley (unlocked) puts on it, and can crack (either tightening or when undoing the pulley).
Without the locking tool to take the load off the keyway (tightening or loosening), the keyway can crack. If all goes will, you'll never notice that the keyway cracked, as the crank bolt is plenty tight. Timing may be a bit off, but probably close enough not to notice. You may only notice the keyway is broken when you do the next timing belt change. It could have been broken for years, but you'd never know until next belt change, as long as crank bolt stays tight.
To those who buy the billet cog: Even though it has a stronger keyway (so you *may* get by without the crank lock tool), it won't stop the carnage resulting from the crank bolt coming loose a bit.. If the bolt comes loose, the keyway WILL get destroyed, no matter what timing belt cog you have. The only way you get catastrophic timing belt crash is if the crank bolt comes loose, and no keyway will ever save that..
Use a proper torque wrench (not impact) , the flywheel TDC marks, and lock tool when installing the belt, and you should be good!
When you are working with these vintage of cars, crusties are a major factor in getting the job done in a timely fashion. Like they say( Expect the unexpected). Great job so far Ivan! You have not had to go RAMBO so far!
I bought a 200 FWD sedan for my daughter to drive in college and lusted after a TQA but never bit the bullitt. I eventually sold the 200 to a friend who after driving it for a few years did upgrade to a 200TQA though so I finally got to drive one. I also had the 3 volume service manual and remember that there was a great 200TQA website that covered almost everything one would need to fix on these great cars.
Unlike a lot of your "low fluids in the car" customers, this owner gets a gold star.
MAPP gas was discontinued in 2008 and it burned at 5300 degrees. The new MAPP Pro [same yellow color] only burns about 130 degrees higher than propane at triple the cost. Save your money.
Happy Thanksgiving, Ivan! What an onion to peel, very painstakingly 🙂
That roller to the side of the water pump, has a suspicious bearing noise. Let's see what Part 2 brings us - should be fun 🙂
Ivan, probably too late at this point, but on my Opel Omega 94 I converted to R134.
As for Opel instructions, orifice tube should be changed from white (0.072") to yellow (0.062") due to diferent pressures. I changed almost all components, so just filled with PAG 150 oil and charged about 80% of the mass of R12. Worked like a charm.
Here in Brazil due to wheater, we do some tune up on the compressor control valve and orifice tube to blow really cold.
Ah yes, I've been waiting for this one! I should have known it was going to be either a Thanksgiving or Christmas special! Kudos to the owner once again for all the time and care he's put into this one. There is mention below of just undoing the 4 allen bolts on the crank pulley...wrong. You gotta remove the main crank bolt. Anyone thats worked on these (me) and even the service manual states the same, knows this. Nice work on getting the front end off! The smaller chassis cars prior to 1988 dont have that luxury, so you gotta work around the front body structure. Cant wait to see the next episode!
OMG, I forgot the sound of the hatch opening on that era of VW. It's the simple things in life. 😁 That engine sounds great.
Happy thanksgiving from his side of the pond
Ivan you may find it easier to put it back together if you take the four bolts out of the crank pully that way you can split the drive dog off and fit the large bolt and dog back on to set the timing without the outer pully getting in your way just watch out for the Allen headed bolts warm them up in order to help them come loose been a while since I did one of these but I still remember that is the best way good luck.
@@mrcogginsgarage7062 I'm not removing any fasteners on this time capsule unless I absolutely have to 😉
Understand completely Ivan.
You're a brave man Ivan.
Thanks Ivan i love these holiday specials 🎉😊
Nice. Yes in VCDS you can access other info blocks and get data but your right it is very primitive and the info on those blocks is hard to find without awesome manuals like the ones you got there
omggg! You are Quite the body man.....Super work in figuring out how to take the front off this bAd boy....now, suspense.....
If you need parts, I live in Germany and there are a few parts left for this Audi, maybe I can help🙂
Audis from the 90s are sooo good quality, wish they would make them not sooo bad today
Is there such a thing as a scan tool archeologist? I think there might be now. Pretty cool convoluted technology for its time. You did an incredible job taking that rusty german puzzle apart with no breakage.
When you consider that all of the parts, and the cost of the labor to do the work only equal a couple of months payment on the ridiculous prices they are asking for the unreliable POS they are producing today. This owner makes perfect sense.
I do like a 5-pot Audi. Current (and for the last 21 years) daily driver is a 1996 A6 C4 2.5 TDI. Both the car and the engine are closely related to this red beast.
Timing belt setup on mine does at least have a fixed pump and a proper tensioner. Have done belt several times now and I don’t enjoy it, the harmonic balancer bolt is a monster. Torque to 200Nm then turn a further 270 degrees….. really helps to have the pulley holding tool. I made one a few years back.
Curious to see how Ivan gets on doing it back up.
You are incredible Ivan, Pic-a-Part would have tklen it from my garage long b4 I ever saw the water pump.
For a very stiff balancer bolt it was known to use the following technique, and I can confirm from personal experience it works. Put an impact socket of good fit on the bolt head of not less that 3/4 drive and a good extension bar under the suspension arm/ sub frame rail and tie it so it doesn't fall off. Pull the relays for fuel pump and ignition and turn the engine over in short 'bumps' the starter will basically screw the bolt out. Just make sure the engine turns the right direction first. Sounds sketchy but done carefully it is simple and effective.
Easier just to use a half inch air impact gun.
@@gregjohnson2073 Yes but it doesn't impress the apprentice quite as much. ☺
The famous Audi service position, I hate it.
Quite common on this age Audis to use the water pump as tensioner. I have a couple Volvo 240 with D24 Audi/VW Diesel engines. In those the WP is also a belt tensioner.
Another good one, Happy Thanksgiving to all PHAD family. Seeing this make me thankful for living outside of the rust belt and for how much easier domestic and asian vehicles are to work on.
You have to loosen the 4 screws to separate the gear from the harmonic balancer. In newer Audis (i own a 1999 A4, a 2005 A4 and a 2013 Seat Exeo, which is based on 2005-2008 A4), only the 4 screws are loosened when changing the timing belt, the central screw can remain in place. It is only loosened, if the gear wheel has to come off to replace the oil seal.
Greetings from Germany.
This is 1991 so it's not that easy 😂
Ivan you are living dangerous with this one.
I trust my old 2000 maxima more than anything.
Whoa!! What a Thanksgiving gift, and I'm not even American!
It’s ok, we were all from somewhere else.
I swear that’s like the Morse code of diagnostic troubleshooting with that damn ancient service manual.😂
Very cool Ivan. Thanks
happy thanksgiving to you and yours too ivan
Thanks for the video Ivan.
God bless you Ivan. I would be sooooo frustrated by this disassembly!! Happy Thanksgiving 😊
A lovely little car, Audi's feel so clean and light to drive.
When you said dirty fuel tank and pump problems I got worried this was the guy who moaned about all the work you charged for when you spent hours diagnosing and stripping down his filthy pump filters! Glad it wasn't the same dude. That guy was insufferable.
Ivan to remove harmonic balancer you dont need to remove centre bolt it can stay with the gear. Just remove those four bolts. They will seperate harmonic balancer from the gear.
Now that the bumper is totally ripped off you better replace that inter cooler radiator as well. And by bolting all together, for at least the bumper, I would use some grease. So that by the next time all comes off jus more easier. Same counts for those hoses on metal. Just spray a petit of silicon grease an der then stick together.
So much for the 4 hour water pump job!!
The dude loves his Audi.
Yep good ol MAP gas. I think it runs about 200 deg hotter than propane ( blue bottle) You can braze with it or solder brass. Even silver solder copper. Radiator repaire as well.
The crank pulley removal needs only the 4 Allen bolt to be removed not the big bolt
That is NOT correct...;)
Yes Ivan you’re rt, but you need to take out the 4 Allen bolts to installed the crack timing gear first install the tbelt and then install the crack pulley big bolt as well the 4 Allen bolts otherwise the tbelt installation ill be more difficult.
The crossmember is key. Good old Audi "Service Mode" is co easy once you get the hang of it.
Ivan, there are sure a lot of pieces to this puzzle, but you have it under control.
The good old 5 cylinder crank bolt. It is torqued to 450Nm (332lb-ft). Or 350Nm if you use the VW 2079 extension and tool to hold the pulley in place. Also the woodruff key on the crank pulley tend to crack.
Damn that's a lot of torque for that bolt.
Thank you so much ivan
I was waiting for months hehe 😂 , worked a lot on these engines , build to last
Lol his sighs are golden!! Well pleased haha.
We are in for a treat this Thanksgiving!
Better keep your old cars running nowadays because they are selling your driving information stay away from the new cars with gps.
Because they don’t track your phone…..
Yes.
My self i ow a 97 Volvo S70 manuel.
Built it my self, & made it though inspection & fully road leagel after standing for 2 years. & parts car witch neve happend
@ That’s pretty cool!
@@KentuckyReef When the sell your driving habits to your insurance company you might think differently it will count hard braking speed and even corners your car has yaw sensors just fyi.
@@keysautorepair6038 they do the same thing with your phone!
Space Wagon! Beautiful car for the rich only.
MAPP gas hasn't been made since 2008, the stuff in the yellow tanks is just propane iwth some propylene added and only burns a little hotter than plain propane, nothing like real MAPP did.
Happy Thanksgiving 😊
Carcheology..challenging 👍
Happy Thanksgiving Ivan and Thank You !
I watched one of Ratchets and Wrenches video working on a newer. Audi he was able to swing the complete front assembly of to one side to gain access to the front of the engine
The only bad thing about those manuals: they are a MAGNET for greasy fingers.. and it gets messy in a hurry
Happy Thanksgiving to you & yours, Ivan, and thanks for all the great uploads.
I miss my 87 5000cs. like a group b car!
Well you definitely got your hands full on this Audi. Jigsaw puzzle? Extremely hard to get parts. One wrong move and the rotten plastic parts break, wow HELP! 😮 I really feel for you. Happy Thanksgiving 🎉😅😊
PHAD channel just added to my “what am I thankful for” list this Thanksgiving 🫡🇺🇸
Looking forward to this Ivan!!
Got the popcorn ready, nice coffee brewing…….And Action…… ❤
Hey Ivan, I did a dealer HVAC course in the 80’s for this system, I still have the factory manual which shows how to access the self diagnosis on the digital AC display.
If your manuals don’t show it let me know and I will copy it for you.
yes motivated enough and lots of $$$$$$
Great job and Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family!
You have created a monster . Soon you will have to seek refuge in a monastery.
Better you then me. I'd have to replace the car for all te broken pieces.
I’m sure you have heard it before but, you need a bigger garage and a lift. At least a set of Quickjacks to get the cars up a little higher.
On to part 2.
R12 TO 134 CONVERSION IS THE EASIEST.. RECOVER OLD AND ADD 134.. DONE!
HA so the 4 hr time starts when you get the front off the car off. I like watching you do these jobs that way i'll know not to work on those car's keep up the good work
if memory serves me..... vegas used the water pump as the timing belt tensioner too
Probably b good to give that intercooler a good bathe
I’ve never had much luck converting R12 to R134. I guess they might work up north but in AZ it’s futile.