I've been gardening for 50 years, and I'm just now learning about no dig gardening, as well as your regenerative growers garden amendments. I also just put green sand and phosphate rock on top of grass in preparation for a new bed, as advised by Elliot Coleman in his four season harvest book. I also added partially spoiled hay and plan to add grass clippings on top of that in a composting in place method. I'm enjoying your methods so much, and hope to keep learning much more from you. Keep the videos coming!
Hi Nigel. Just want to say a huge thank you for sharing all your work. Have read your book nearly 3 times now, and I'm just wondering how the above method would be suited to a more commercial size operation of around 2 hectares?
The process of turning 2 hectares, about 5 acres, of lush grass into a growing space depends on may factors, existing soil conditions and resources at the top of the list. The entire 2 hectares may not have to be done at one time if resources are not available. Mowing and solarizing is another option. If the rhizosphere is deep enough, cultivating the grass a few inches deep to break up the root system being sure that the soil ecosystem is still intact underneath is another option. Incorporating all of these ideas together based on available resources and time makes the most sense.
Hi! I'm trying to do almost the same as you and with similar space. For clarification, you cut the grass to the bare minimum (do I really have to cut it?). You put minerals right on top after soil testing. You put the lots of hay on top. Then, you water or rainwater and add IMO biology to it. You leave it through the winter for 6-9 months and remove the hay to plant potatoes. My questions are do I have to cut the grass under beforehand? Do you put the IMO 4 directly on top of the hay and how much IMO did you use in a week for that space? Should I start in August? Thank you so much! ❤
You do not have to cut the grass. Apply a thin layer of IMO4. You can put the IMO on top, but remember that it is alive and needs water and housing to thrive. Be sure to water or have rain shortly after application. Some mulch wont hurt. Simply adding the hay and waiting 6-9 months works too.
I’m curious if you have advice for removing grass for a garden I want to start now in April. I have seeds started and just gained access to a location.
Non scheduled at the moment. Best way to hear of the next one is to add your name to "email updates " on my web site. nigel-palmer.com. I have had many requests so may open one up soon.
So needed! And as always, your material is so accessible and makes it sound easy!
Thank you
I've been gardening for 50 years, and I'm just now learning about no dig gardening, as well as your regenerative growers garden amendments. I also just put green sand and phosphate rock on top of grass in preparation for a new bed, as advised by Elliot Coleman in his four season harvest book. I also added partially spoiled hay and plan to add grass clippings on top of that in a composting in place method. I'm enjoying your methods so much, and hope to keep learning much more from you. Keep the videos coming!
Thank you.
Nice! Looking forward to the next instalment!
Thank you..I'm nearly half way throught your book..oh how I'm enjoying it..blessings
Hi Nigel. Just want to say a huge thank you for sharing all your work. Have read your book nearly 3 times now, and I'm just wondering how the above method would be suited to a more commercial size operation of around 2 hectares?
The process of turning 2 hectares, about 5 acres, of lush grass into a growing space depends on may factors, existing soil conditions and resources at the top of the list. The entire 2 hectares may not have to be done at one time if resources are not available. Mowing and solarizing is another option. If the rhizosphere is deep enough, cultivating the grass a few inches deep to break up the root system being sure that the soil ecosystem is still intact underneath is another option. Incorporating all of these ideas together based on available resources and time makes the most sense.
Found it very hard to hear even on the highest volume of my PC Nigel. Just FYI.
Thank you for taking the time to share with us.
Thank you for letting me know. Will try and do better going forward.
Hi! I'm trying to do almost the same as you and with similar space. For clarification, you cut the grass to the bare minimum (do I really have to cut it?). You put minerals right on top after soil testing. You put the lots of hay on top. Then, you water or rainwater and add IMO biology to it. You leave it through the winter for 6-9 months and remove the hay to plant potatoes. My questions are do I have to cut the grass under beforehand? Do you put the IMO 4 directly on top of the hay and how much IMO did you use in a week for that space? Should I start in August? Thank you so much! ❤
You do not have to cut the grass. Apply a thin layer of IMO4. You can put the IMO on top, but remember that it is alive and needs water and housing to thrive. Be sure to water or have rain shortly after application. Some mulch wont hurt. Simply adding the hay and waiting 6-9 months works too.
I’m curious if you have advice for removing grass for a garden I want to start now in April. I have seeds started and just gained access to a location.
Solarize or rototiller
@@nigelpalmer3439 thank you
Where are you based and when are your next courses /
Non scheduled at the moment. Best way to hear of the next one is to add your name to "email updates " on my web site. nigel-palmer.com. I have had many requests so may open one up soon.