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2511 w/ 1/4pitch

Did you have to weld c clamps for the transom mount?

myne came with it... Youll have too try get one from a company.. maybe like mudskipper.. they mite sell you one.. If not.. You could find a old outboard thats junk, and cut the bracket off, weld or even bolt.. a round tube on..same size that motor pivots on.. OR.. take your H mount too a welder, show him what you want need.. prob make it for few $$.. Heck prob could make your own if your not afraid too try and weld a bit with a cheap welder and practice.. some big cheap old C-clamps.. - grinder with cutting wheel.. I actually customized myne on a 2nd kit.. for my dad.. he got the h bracket.. What you see is what you get online.. most times.. I got mine like 18 months ago.. Now the same co. is selling different collor motors, and have the H mount.. "graduysa or w.e".. maybe message them??... I just heated, an bent tabs down, did some cutting, grinding, tack welds, then drilled holes and put bolts rite threw the bent down H bracket " legs".. uSED LIKE 3/8" X 6" CARRAGE OR FULL THREAD GALVINIZED BOLTS.. BOLTED AND CLAMPED, SANDWICHED RITE ON TRANSOME.. you can make something prob with some steel stock from lowes or HdEPOT..

cavitation? yea the stock setup kinda did.. try a 2 blade prop conversion, and get a longer trim bolt, play with the height of the prop in water, and shift your weight from back too front, see what changes.. I keep myne so its almost out of water, i gotta sit in back too get it too grab, but once im on plane, i move up and sit in middle a bit.. all depends..

ive tryed a few.. and i like the stihl. Mostly because i can go get it from the shop few mile away, go drill a hole in it for the chain adjuster, and i got a 1/4" bar the same day... Yea imho you gatta have a roller tip on these. I tried hard tips, and theydidnt last (for this style use/work i do) Plus 2511 dont have the power,trq? too pull chain over a hard tip ime. I tried one, and it cut, but not as well as roller tip.. With 1/4" pitch. Also your suppose too leave them a bit more loose, (well on a carving style dime/quarter hard tips) but Im not carving, so i keep'm a bit more snug like you would. im usually cutting hardwood, and i dont have too bore in with the tipp too much, but still can and do no prob. and it hold up fine.. Plus it takes less oil ime..less heat buildup.

I get you see. We have a echo dealer very close here. But are still dealers, man fifty sixty dollars a bar here and there chaims are 55

Wow, yea idk if echo even has 1/4” pitch setups in North America, I know in Europe the 2511tes,? Had and option for 1-4 pitch.. I think for the stihl bar 12” pmm3, it’s 35$ an the chain is 27$? But you can look online.. I mean it’s worth it if you got the 100$+ too but a 1/4” setup from chainsawbarsuk. The panther bar? I just never had the time too wait 2weeks too ship.. and it’s not cheap.. I can get a month,almost 2-3months out of a stihl 1-4” 65dl chain.. (long as it only gets used up in tree) And the bar, I think I get a year+.. Myne usually get bent before they wear out 😢.. from someone doin stupid stuff or usin it on the ground.. But yea.. there’s other options.. The archer 1/4” bars are decent. On eBay.. but I think the stihl is tuffer..

They have a plung bar and a fat Commercial bar for the twenty five eleven and the three fifty five

?? I know nothing about software.. I only know hardware..

There is something on one of the plow forums.. depending what plow you have, Get the wiring diagram.. Theres like 6? wires too control a western,, but only 3x solonoids.. & the motor itself.. you need atleast 4x realays 4x outputs- and a few diodes.. it goes something like- up -relay send power too pump & 1st solenoid. right- relay, power too pump, and 2nd solenoids, left is power too 2x of the solenoids and pump. down- goes too one solenoid.. use diodes onthe relay outputs on all of them except the down relay.. something like that.. 4x relays, for 3x solenoids, and pump, 4 functions, controlling, you use diodes too keep the power from feeding the wrong solonoids and pump power.. Ill try too find the diagram i made..

I actually found the details and a simple schematic I will post it below..... There is someone in the truck angling the plow! 😅😂😅

ebay, mudskipper, just search longtail/surface drive props.. i would start with a 6.5 up too 7".. the black props are best all around.. performance.. but they do have 6.5 hi power, hi-speed #0.. many.. but there cheap.. I got like 6x props.. My favorite for all around is the 7" black regular prop.. and the 6.5" hi power... after i did cam and mods, i went too a #0 hi speed, and that was ok for solo rides.. but i never got over 18mph... YET.. www.ebay.com/itm/194759610494?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Rb1ARy15Rhy&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=IWqZcomGRvm&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yes.. I did also.. And it’s opposite threads.. And on there tite. You’ll need some bigger pipe wrenches, and a little heat like a propane torch., There’s a guy that explains how too get it off on here somewhere. It’s a little trucky, but I had it off in bout 10mins.. once I got good grip on it, bigger pipe wrenches etc. Get a 2blade aluminum, tap it with the 14mn tap, add a set screw.. it’ll cruise rite along. And when you put the aluminum 2blade on, you hardly even tight it. I put antisense on myne, and littersly snug it with my pinky finger.. tighten set screw, Dan of lock tite on that. The set screw is really wat holds it, You mite wanna get 2-3 sizes.. I started with 7”, it was tad bit too much prop with only stage 1 stuff.. I went down too a 6.5” and was just rite fir me solo. After cam, flywheel, and intake, govener delete, <40? Jet in carb? Stiffer valve springs, Then, the 6.5” was tad bit too small, so I went up too a 7” and ir a hi speed style #0? and that was just rite.. it hauled ass. (But if I have 2ppl in boat) I go back too 6.5”) I carry them with me. Changed them in like a minute, just need Allen kdy and a rubber mallet.. And you will haveta adjust your trim bolt more or less accordingly. I hadta go get a longer one, like a 5”? Or 6”? And I just put a little silicone on it, a keep and old wrench on a string, sometimes I’ll haveta adjust it up or down a turn depending the water, currents, depth., but it’s nbd.. (Make sure carry extra one an extra prop) or, only wirk on it when on the shore lol.. I dropped the sticker trim bolt in the deep.. and hadta rig up some the too hold the prop tail up, just too get back.. the stick one isn’t long enuff, once you start goin too a 2blade and it skims along surface. 2blade prop is s nite an day difference.. The 2blades really like too be rite in a seeet spot.. But they are 2x as fast. Thought if you want a prop that will push alotta weight at any height, and lower HP/rpm the 3blade is better.. Still a smaller 2blade is like first best mod I did. And like an intake and aluminum flywheel, governer removal. I’d start with a 6.25”- 6.5”/7”..

​@@justinherdman87Man that was super cool of u to take time to explain all those details....i was also wondering for future reference in case i decidied to buy one. i seen another guy on another channel that was having same problems.

doesn't need too much.. if you use marine grease.. too much and it pushes it all out all over the place.. But the prop comes off regular threads.. then you gotta take off the tail coupler, that is left handed threads or opposite.. and yea, that stuff is tight!.. but a bit of heat from a map gas torch, and bigger pipe wrenches, make sure you go correct way.. you'll see its real simple once that tail coupler is off. I wouldn't try too pull the flex shaft out al the way.. just pull it out a bit, put some grease on it put it back together... Or while you got it there you could drill and tap the the tube add a greas fitting.. ime the upper part of the shaft needs grease more then the tail, by the prop (since the engine heat, gravitty, shaft spinning etc) - down by the prop, you can just move shaft out, pull 1x cover and bearing out and put some grease in that coupler, and put it back together.. -That tail coupler stays cool, and in water, so a bit of grease every 8-12 hours should be fine.. I was gonna drill and tap the tail coupler' and put larger zerk fitting in it.. but the grease always seem too run down from the top.. and or the grease I added, when i did prop change, was fine when I checked it 6hours later. Its pretty simple setup.. Not much too go wrong..

no, i think for some reaoson there were only a few with transom mounts.. they sold them all now ive only seen the flat mount.. mite have too fabricate something out of the flat' mount.. show a local welder what you want.. cut the bracket you got and make an transome mount out of it.. there mite be some for sale somewere.. but i noticed that when i bought myne.. I looked at pics on amazon, and made sure it was transom mount.. I got lucky i guess.. if not i was prepared too make my own.. or mount it on a pate in the back.. the further back you can get this motor, the better top speed youll get when you go too a 2 blade prop.. also, the width of the boat, and were the' water meats after the boat goes threw water, at certain speeds vs. were that prop goes can affect your speed, and performance.. Also the trim height you gotta play with and kinda set it for the boat, the weight, the prop, the power.. theres other guys that have it down too a chart/science on here...

RUBBER OUT?? LOL IDR EITHER.. I THINK ITS.. BEARING.. SEAL- SPRING- SEAL.. IIR.. Honestly it doesn't matter too much not like its got a gear box.. long as it stays lubbed a bit.. llol'

its not much heavy then a air cooled 4hp outboard.. I think its 58lbs? it feels heavy and awkward when you try too lift it.. if you get the deck plat mount and mount it you would be alrite i think.. you could also just get the twister setup... and put a 80cc 3hp gx clone engine on it.. the 3-7hp honda clone engines are same patterns and shaft size im prettysure... and a 3hp is only like 99$ they only weigh like 20lbs or w,e.. I put this setup on a flatback ghanoe, and it held it no prob. but i didn't run it too far cause ghanooe had leaks all over.. lol

just look up boat motors, surface drive motors.. y our better off goin with mudskipper brand i think they now sell twisters on amazon. they are built better a bit more money but parts and support for the, is better. but they are on ther they come and go. you gotta keep looking searchin for boat motors etc till you see this design.. even better, look up google search cks longtail surface drives. ther in Thailand but the prices are awesome. but shipping can tale a bit..

Thanks for the info, yea I think I’ll save up for the mudskipper kit, I’m not that good with tools so making adaptations like you did won’t be easy to me, still your video rocks it’s very informative there aren’t people posting on this clone engines and kits, keeep it up sir

Another prop in grabcad 172.5x247.8mm.

thats great too hear! Im glad i cut and re-welded and changed the Junk design, and added and adjustable on the fly trim lever, changed the bearings out of the tail, found some sealed wheel bearings for a motorcycle that fit better and smoother.. Now i just gotta repaint it, and it wont be a twister, or a clone anymore.. I guess it will be "HOMADE" and also has a rebuilt name brand honda gx200.. so i shouldnt have and epa issue now with a off the shelf honda rite?

If i would have seen the actual USA "TWISTER" before i found this clone, i would have bought it.. I didn't know about the TWISTER" brand UNTILL AFTER I BOUGHT THIS.. This video has nothing too do with the name or epa regulation etc.. This is just simply how i made some props work on a "TWISTER-CLONE" iF ANYTHING, iVE GAVE the "TWISTER" FREE ADVERTISING!!!

if i had the time..sure lol... I did think about building a sort of boat.. Or just goin too a 15hp true- long tail.. On this little 10ft/30' wide boat. thing is.. this boat works great in the shallow rocky river, on plane I can get threw like 3" of water on the river.. long as I dont stop lol.. The flat bottom and aluminum hold up well against rocks.. and its so lite i can carry it myself over my head if i had too... but i know what you mean.

yup. no prob... yea i didn't think so either, but they do..(well they did on myne lol) just only use 1 washer ime.. yea that housing is on there!

10 ft.. starcraft or w.e

i think it was Gdrasuya10 Outboard, (196cc 7.5hp?) but i bought mine when there was only 4 left a year ago, that had transom mount.. so now what you see is what you get i guess..

go look at mudskipper.com, order a prop.. or order the whole adapter kit.. but check see what you got first, take your prop off. its a pita, but theres how toos.. . then order a tap, m16 x 1.5? and a m8, and do it yourself, its pretty hard too screw up. theres other how too videos around..

yup.. go too gopowersports, etc. any of the go-kart racing parts places.. these are popular. just send them a pic of your engine if your not sure,, but yea the engine is a non hemi gx200/212cc? lol its confusing yet simple. The guys on ebay, diyperformance1 ? sold me a cam and they knew. also a flywheel.. the other stuff like air cleaner, throttle, non gov, is off amazon.ebay. theres tons of choices.. I dont like this govener delete kit. it works put its crappy.. I got a PD22? kiehn style carb im gonna put on this month.. I hear the carb really wakes them up.. The props are kK props ? but the black ones I (thin perform best all around) got from mudskipper, 1-2 from ebay.,.

id try a 7" regualr, the black one is best all around.. Also tryed the hi-s;peed #0, its good for light weight, and more mods.. The hi-power 6.5" is pretty good too.. But the 7" regualy is best all around.. or even 7.5" try getting the kit 6.5"-7", of regualr thinner' props, not the hi-speed or hi power ones, first.. Try those others later after you play with the regualr 7" prop.. and mods, and trim levels..

Props from Mud-skipper.com, and on ebay etc. And the cam,flywheenl, valvsprings, intake, exhaust(i made) All on ebay, an amazon.. Cam fro daltonperformance.. Flywheel, got from someone off ebay, the 50$ one, Gove bypass throttle cable kit and jets from ONE of the small powersports companys, on amazon ebay.. I just got a flat top piston, and +010 stroker rod, also a thinner head gasket, and the mikuni clone vm2 kit, i am installing soon, too see if i can get my setup up past 18mph..

yes. I could. Contact me on instagram.com/juddyherdman tell me all your specs. -what engine,size, mods, boat size length/width hgunall' height., -we're you plan too use it, IE: MUD' shallow lake, rocky river, swiftwater, etc. also how many ppl you plan too carry, and or weight. Its a testing proscess.. But within 1-2 tests of 1-2 props youll know what works best..

I'm bowfishing rivers and creaks so shallow no more then three people don't care bout speed i made one just got the wrong prop it was a high speed I got but it'a inch to long bottom out before the treds bit if you could tell me what prop I should order be greatly appreciated .

The hi speed and hi power will fit, But the regular props black ones seem work best all aroun anyway.

First I just did aluminum flywheel, jet kit, air filter, gov & oil sensor delete.. left stick muffler on for a bit, hit 17mph with the 7” black’ 2 blade mud-skipper prop. I did a cam mild “booster cam” from diyperformance1 on eBay, and modified exhaust, went too a hi speed #0 & #1 prop from mud-skipper, got up too about 18mph, not much speed gain, but deff’ faster and smoother especially with 2ppl or extra weight.. First thing I would do, is the prop mod. I’m gonna post a video soon on how too do a 2blade prop. I just got a flat top piston, billet rod, and mikuni vm22 carb, gonna try those next.. Start with basic mods, try different 2 blade props.. I’ll post a short of most recent run w/ description. And a video on everything I’ve done so far asap.. just need too edit it.

Thanks, I put this video on Facebook in a mud motor group. Everyone wants to know about it! The hard part is switching to a 2 blade without an adapter. That’s everyone’s main question.

WELL, YOU CANNN DO IT WITHOUT THE ADAPTER, with some basic skill, and the m16x2 tap.. Just take your time.. Though the adapter is way too go, but i didnt know about it till after i switched too a 22-blade. Ive switched props on boat motors in past, 2 blades are always usually better for speed, getting on plane. 3 blades are made for more power, steady rpm band.. heres some footage and how i did it.. th-cam.com/video/I1Mvr4iTDyE/w-d-xo.html

ill put up a short on how i did the prop conversion.. in min.

@@johnmerica3380 no problem! I’ll post some more stuff up after I do next mods, mikuni carb, piston, headwork , porting, etc. mite even try more aggressive cam. Based of mods I did, I should be near predator ghost hp, up near 13-14hp. Also going too try more props, after that I’m going too build and on the fly’ adjustable trim, w/ a 12v linear actuator, or some sort of mechanical design. That’s only problem with these, us you gotta adjust the trim sometimes while on fly’ and or shift weight in boat too move prop in and out of water more or less.. thanks for watching!