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Glad it helped!

Thank you 😁

Glad you enjoyed

You probably could, but I've found I have to change the cheese cloth at the bottom pretty often, so if there were more frames, it may clog the cheesecloth entirely, then the wax would come out between the box and the base, which I've seen. The pressure just builds up. I think more filter frames at the bottom would help, or maybe more room and more of a funnel style filter.

Actually, I put it out in the yard on an old hive stand, but you could prop 3 cinderblocks on end and flip over those. You would drown a hive if you put it on top. Thanks for the feedback!

@@mongrelbees2616 that’s what i figured but i certainly like your set up.

Also, mine is NOT letting me enter a safe Z?

I don’t know. I’ll have to see if I have a version number on mine somewhere

Mine have definitely grown. I usually end up keeping the swarms for a year and splitting or requeening the following year, but I take my established hives and do a 3:1 or 5:1 splits with new queens and sell them as nucs, so I'm able to maintain my hive populations. I went from 7 hives to 40 in just 3 seasons as I had scaled back when I sold my house, and had to find other sites. I could have more than 40, but I have a regular job, and don't have a great market for selling honey as I don't want to spend my Saturday's sitting at a farmer's market. Sometimes I don't feed at all, just because I'm too busy, or because I want weaker colonies to die off. I'm not into saving every colony out there, only the ones with traits that survive with little maintenance. If I spent as much time on these as other beekeepers with all the treatments and feedings, I could easily have a couple hundred hives or more. I just don't have places for them all. I live in a more urban area, and a certain density of hives creates a nuisance, plus we already have 5 active beekeeping clubs in the area. I don't know about other guys, but for me, it's a constant source of getting drawn comb and new genetics, and fun. I'm busy with other things, so if I do something dumb and lose some hives, I don't worry about it. It also helps me with location. I have hives in 5 spots within 20 miles of each other. They perform DRAMATICALLY different. I have 20 hives in a depressed urban area that I can't put supers on fast enough. Then I have a few hives in a higher end neighborhood on 3 acre parcels only 15 miles away - mix of wooded and houses with streams and ponds, and they've starved 2 years in a row, while everything around is green (my guess is commercial lawn care and mosquito spraying). I also have a swamp area that produces a ton of honey in the spring, but also a massive amount of hive beetles in every hive, so I have to redo those hives with special modified entrances this spring that lock them down against beetles, and make sure I don't have any of my nucs there as they can't handle the beetles. I think that even in a single city, you can have beekeepers succeed and fail and it has very little to do with the beekeeper.

Munawar, you have to have a a relay setup to receive the grbl command. Amazon has sold a relay that's currently unavailable, but you may be able to find a similar one. Your controller has to have the option to send the command to the relay though to turn on the router or vacuum. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@mongrelbees2616 thank you! I’ll look for the relay from your link. It’s a XCarve controller so I am sure it has the option, I just have to figure out which terminals

@@munawarsoomro6207 spindle 0-10v and ground

you will also have a gCode setting, i think $32=0

@@mongrelbees2616 I truly appreciate your help. So fast and so helpful. This is awesome.

I use Vcarve Desktop

It's a mix of beeswax, coconut oil, and lemongrass oil. I cover how to make it in the swarm attractant videos.

Mine is saved. You have to be careful to choose G30 and not 30.1 or it resets. I had to be careful about that. Also, choosing close at the top middle should save your settings for the next time.

@@mongrelbees2616 Thank you. I did not click on close so maybe that's where my problem is. I'll give that a try tomorrow.

Lol, well HS, it was a couple years ago. I didn’t buy it today. If I had, I would have probably chosen a different option, but I had never owned a CNC before and there was a bit of a learning curve. I’m a bit better informed today.

I will say that for someone who has never used a CNC, I think the x carve is the easiest first exposure to a CNC out there. The software, though temperamental, is still a very easy software to use for someone with no experience. I have seen many crafty people with no experience make things within a day or so of setting it up. In the future, I’ll probably upgrade to something more robust if I have a business model that supports it, and may convert this into a dedicated slab machine or rotary.

ok well that may make sense...i own a J-carve j is for junk but i got mine for only $120 back in 2018..its a POS...and today there is no reason to buy one there are several better options at same price and are so much better than the xcarve ..mark my word though xcarve will be redesigned very very soon...if xcarve wants to keep up with competition it will have to cahnge....rubber belts , underpowered stepper motors, extremely minimum z axis and v wheels do not belong on a cnc machine...and you cheated you upgraded your stepper motors and z clearance height and your z axis so your machine is not a stock xcarve so..you cant consider it an xcarve and give false expectations to other people... :) by the way how is picsender compared to UGS...i use UGS.

@@shelby50411 I did upgrade several things that now I know, it would have been cheaper to have bought a beefier machine in the beginning. I use vcarve and picsender and have been pretty happy with the results. The v wheels require a lot of checking. I may build a custom machine the next time around. I’m planning on cutting a hole through the center of this table so I can drop boards down through to enable me to do some fancier mortise and tenon work.

yeah well it is what it is..i laugh at all these people who spend 2k on the junk-carve and then toss out 50% of the machine and purchse upgrade parts...to me thats not smart at all but it does happen..at least you relaize it wasnt a good idea..at least your machine now is a bit more capable i use vectric aspire and UGS....i have never used picsender ..is it free and similar to UGS?...i only use easel once in a blue moon..its pretty much useless but it has 1 thing that vcarve and vectric doesnt have and that is that it can do stacked engraving very simple and vcarve is not as simple to do...other than that i dont use easel since its way way too limited..easel is for baby beginners. and another thing i hate about eeasel is it is tethered to the internet and i dont like that at all and inventables has possession of any project you make which is a huge nono in my opinion...

Well, picsender does have the option, but router based CNC like mine is manual. I adjust the speed of the router on a speed control on the router itself. On picsender, you can turn the router on and off with I think the m3 button

@@mongrelbees2616 where do you connect router's power cord to then?

@@hanbinkim2636 it’s plugged into a 12v relay. The relay supplies 110v power and is switched on and off via my CNC controller. It sends a signal to the relay to turn the router on. I have 2 relays- the vacuum and the router come on at the same time.

@@mongrelbees2616 Thanks! This is nice information.

Hey Linda, sorry, swamped with my day job and never looked at the comments. I think you could, but I find that bees tend to climb, so I normally point the cones down. My thought is that they would climb the cone, then at the peak go back down. You'd be better off to try to put some kind of box on top of the sprinkler box, then a cone on the side, but honestly, a sprinkler box should be something you can cut the comb out of.

Depends on the extractor. Mine has a bit of a cage, and you can add cages. I actually use plastic for my honey supers, and foundationless for my brood chambers. You can extract them if you're careful. Basically, you put them in the extractor, spin on low speed to spin out about half of the honey on one side, flip it, spin out half again, then flip again to get the rest, and then flip one last time. It's a pain, but the reason you have blow out is the weight of the honey on the inside side of the comb pushes through at high centrifugal force. I've found that in the spring, that foundationless comb produces a lot of drone comb. Swarms don't usually make as many drones so I try to get my swarm captures to draw my comb for me. I also will come in and cut out the drone comb in the later summer when not as many drones are needed by the hive. Usually the first 1 or 2 inches will be worker, then the rest can be drone, and you can cut horizontal across and many times get them to draw more worker cells.

I have thought about fishing string, but find that it stretches, and when you want to finish off the end (wrapping around a nail to hold it) it's very hard to get it to stay. For example, to use fishing line, you have to keep constant tension, even to the point of bending the wooden frame, and then you'd need something to hold the fishing line at the end. (the stapled side would work fine, but the nail side I don't think the fishing line would work well. Even with gloves all slippery with honey and nectar, I can still keep tension on the wire and wrap it around a nail a few times and it holds the comb tight.

th-cam.com/video/-PxTjPImZ9o/w-d-xo.html Found under the Video tab on his home page. There are two more parts.

I only hang a swarm trap where people watch them for me. I use the analogy of fishing. Most are families that get really excited when I tell them it's time to hang the traps. So, except for the ones I put in my outyards, I usually pick up the trap within 3 days of the bees taking it on. Then it sits in the apiary for a day or 2, then I move them into the regular hive. This gives the bees plenty of volume, and I rarely have to cut away in breach comb. If I wasn't watching them, I would definitely use standard 8 or 10 frame deeps.

Sandra Ronan sure. I was actually going to cover methods of hanging in the next video, so I can I’ll make sure to include all of that.

Amanda Dowd yes, Vespa Crabro Germana. My trap is 53L but it contains frames. Fortunately we don’t have the Asian hornet though they have captured a couple in shipping on the west coast of the US. The Crabro isn’t a significant threat to honey bee hives, but they have been known to hang around in the summer and pick off workers in flight. They are mainly an irritation when they get in my traps.

Uncle Hoss usually 1-1.5 tablespoons

William McNett ah, I forgot about that. I’ll try to find it

Found them. I’ll load it up. I can’t believe anyone would watch me ramble on. If I really wanted to I could break them all up and make a bunch of educational videos but it just takes a ton of time to productionize a channel

I put a glass jar inside the steamer and add the wax! No mess 🐒

i did know that. I try to save every bit I get. That's one of the reasons I built the steam wax extractor. Gets me every drop. Even these frames, once they're to the point the bees can't use them, they go into the steam extractor and it starts all over again.