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Definitely, I still get lots of questions about what compressor is needed for this jack so this is more of a "even the smallest compressor could do this" kind of video. Thanks for watching.

I have ended up doing this. I find plywood usually works best unless I need more height.

I used a schrader valve(like a car tire valve) to 1/4" NPT fitting and an M style air hose coupler to be able to adapt from the car air pump to the jack.

Just be mindful if the milwaukee pump has a maximum run time.

Thanks for watching. For compressor size you may want to look at the specifications of your other tools as this jack is only dependant on maximum pressure whereas something like an impact gun will require a specific air flow at usually 90psi.

Glad this video could help you.

Hockey pucks can work great but I avoid them as I've seen them split before especially in cold weather when they become as hard as a rock.

Unfortunately, reviews of things with lack lustre quality will end up sounding quite negative. The reason I bought this is price and solely because of price since a professional quality item of the same style is easily 4x the cost which can't be justified with my limited use compared to a professional environment. I'm simply pointing out any draw backs for people to expect from this item as I'm sure there will be people out there purchasing it for similar reasons that I am. Thanks for watching.

Yea it has some things that are to be desired but compared to other brands the price is right.

Yes I've been contemplating using that along with some plywood to make some durable pads. I actually use an air powered angle grinder to cut mine. It makes a lot of smoke but with it being air powered if the disc catches it won't kick like an electric one does.

@@jtreworks The rubber chews up the cutting disks too much on the cutoff saw so it may not be worth it; if you can borrow a reciprocating saw from someone it makes short work of it. Bi-metal blade does the trick-

Yes, it's not the best build quality out there but it's also not of an unusable quality. The higher quality ones from what I could tell from videos are much better, however, they are at a price point that they just don't make sense for the average garage tinkerer. This doesn't replace my hydraulic jack simply because this air jack along with all others in this style that I've seen lack the lift precision that a hydraulic jack has. Thanks for watching.

I probably could be. Really though, I believe you have to be a bit anal about something when you're going over it's pros and cons for a review. Thanks for watching.

Les soupapes de sécurité sont importantes. Merci d'avoir regardé.

I don't like to think I know more than other people especially people I don't know. Whatever you were doing to the front of that car I feel should have been done with different equipment. I've never had to do or have herd of a job on a vehicle that required 6 jack stands on one end of the vehicle. Also, these jacks are inherently unstable especially at mid lift which they are not really designed for. You are basically lifting up the car with a spring with an air jack like this. They are meant for full lift to their max height then drop them the inch or so to a jack stand that's it. If you need to do anything else use a standard hydraulic jack. One last thing, I have a short of me rocking this jack side to side at mid lift height and the car never fell off it and it's not so unstable that you couldn't drop a car an inch onto a jack stand unless you were pushing on the car as you dropped it. Sorry this jack didn't work out for you but thanks for watching.

Hey thanks for watching. I replied to your other comment as well. I would think a pancake style compressor should be enough to do one full lift before having to cycle on. Unfortunately, I do not have one to test with to confirm. Just make sure the compressor you chose can reach the maximum pressure or more than what the jack is rated for(I think it was 113psi). Then you can regulate it down to match the maximum pressure of the jack.

Hi thanks for watching. I find lighter vehicles can usually be lifted by about 70-80psi. The heavier vehicles you will need to get fairly close to the maximum pressure which I believe is about 113psi for this unit. The F-150 I always worked on was just a standard cab with an 8ft box and there usually wasn't much in the truck itself. So in the field you never what you'll run into. As for what compressor it's really a matter of how long you want to wait since it's a closed system. I would think a pancake style compressor would be enough for this jack.

​@@jtreworks did you try measuring the air pressure in the jack with the heavier vehicles? I only tried lighter loads of a Focus, Camaro, and Transit, and the pressure was about 40 psi. The compressor would have to be higher to fill it in a reasonably quick time by having a pressure differential, but it didn't need all that much pressure on my 3 ton version of the jack. The 5 ton should take less pressure for the same lift load, but just more air volume.

Technically as long as the pump you are using can supply the jack's maximum pressure it can lift a car. It's a closed system so all the air you put into the jack doesn't come out of the jack until you let the car down. th-cam.com/video/Iucxa0GpMT0/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=JTReworks

Thanks for watching! I didn't have an issue lifting the F150(base model) I used to work on and it lifts the front end of my 2011 Ranger 4x4 just fine. They rate it the same as the professional air bag jacks but I'm not sure if the airbags of this one are the same as the professional ones but I do know that if the jack isn't placed quite right while lifting it can bind near the top not allowing it to lift properly(side effect of being cheap I guess). The trick I use is lifting the jack until it touches the vehicle then I bump the bottom of the jack towards the vehicle slightly. This gives it just enough offset at the bottom to have it nearly perfectly vertical when fully lifted.

Mabe your compressor too small

​@@peacetoearth I have a pressure gauge connected to the release valve port so I can see the actual pressure in the jack. mine didn't require a lot of pressure, only 30 to 35 psi to support a compact car. A higher pressure compressor fills it up faster but it doesn't need very high pressure for operation from what I've seen.

If it doesn't lift with heavier loads and sufficient air pressure, it could be stiction in the telescoping metal column inside the center which keeps it from flopping over sideways. Good tip to try nudging it sideways carefully a bit to try to free it up during the lift. Some videos of people applying some grease to the metal column to help it slide, may be beneficial if judiciously applied.

I have a '17 Ranger 4x4 diesel and it is able to lift the frontend by the wheel crossmember. I only need to put a 4" pad on top to get it to do so. I also have bigger wheels on the pickup so that probably contributes to needing the pad. I can get both wheels off the ground enough to put stands underneath. It takes 8 bar/115psi to get it there. I haven't tried lifting by the rear diff yet. I use ramps when I want the whole rear end up. For everything else I just lift quarters. My compressor is a tiny 8 bar/24l/6gal. It has to refill halfway through lifting the frontend. That's still way better than trying to pump 2.5 metric tonnes on a floor jack in 6" increments.

Hi, thanks for watching! The top of the jack does move around a bit especially when it is not at full height. I don't know exactly how much it moves side to side but it shouldn't fall over because of the cylinder inside. Once the jack is at full height it's a lot more solid. If you would like I can do a short video on how stable the jack is. Edit: I measured the top of the jack at half height and it looks like it can move 1/2" or 12.7mm off-center.

@@jtreworks Sure a short video would help. I'm interested is seeing its stability not at full height but rather just over the height of a typical car wheel. Thank you

Sure I'll see what I can do here in the next couple of days.

@Darryl Carpenter I've uploaded a short video that should hopefully answer your question. th-cam.com/users/shortsCxCV0mQq5_c Edit: I don't know why it was set to private but it should work now.

Use jack stands after lifting, no safety in this jack.

Hi, thanks for watching! Since this jack is a closed system when lifting(no air escapes) almost any compressor can be used so long as it can reach the maximum rated pressure of the jack which is about 113psi on this model. This has actually got me curious as to the smallest compressor that can be used. I'm currently editing a video about this.

​@@jtreworks probably could do it even with an air storage tank, but if you use it up then you'd need something that can actively pump air.

Many modern uni-body vehicles have their manufacturer recommended jack point on the pinch weld. The only thing that would prevent you from jacking on a pinch weld of a uni-body would be if it's significantly rusted.

My 2008 civic front jack point was a pinch weld. Not sure what you're on about

Thanks for watching!

It's a pretty simple design by the looks of it and many of the parts you can disassemble. I have a similar hydraulic trolly jack that's probably as old as I am that I still keep because there's some jobs where you need fine jack adjustments which is what a hydraulic jack is perfect for. The reason I was concerned about the rubber pad is that there is 2 cars I work on that are extremely low from the factory one of which is actually too low for this jack the other this jack only had 3/8 of an inch clearance from the steel plate so I made a plywood puck instead of the really soft rubber one and it works well. On my 2015 Civic though it fits fine so you should be able to put a piece of plywood on top of the rubber pad for the Insight if it has the same ground clearance. Sometimes there's no jack point on the front of cars. A Hyundai and a Mazda I work on don't have a spot on the front so I have to jack from the pinch weld on each side.

@@jtreworks -- The Insight is basically the same body as the Civic, but with a bit more up-level features *allegedly*... As such, I suspect the clearance is pretty close... I ended up buying one of this type of jack and the best way to add 2" of ground clearance is to put a 2" thick concrete block where each tire is going to end up and drive on top of it... Assuming you did not use too large of a block, then you now have an additional 2" of space to slide the jack under the car. That is what I used on my wife's Insight... I could not use jack ramps on this car because the angle of the clamps was wrong and the front air dam would hit before the tires started up the ramp... If you space the blocks right, you could gain a bit more without interfering with the space that is needed to slide the jack under the pinch seam... One "advantage" to this new jack is that it game me to motivation to fix the leaky air hose that I had been just "working around" for quite awhile...

@@seanseoltoir This fall I planned on doing something similar. I have some scrap 2x6 that I can cut to make small pads to drive on to so I have a bit more clearance to add more blocks to the jack and lift the vehicle higher. Hopefully, it will make undercoating a little easier. Nothing like a shiny new tool to make you want to spruce things up around the garage. :)

@@jtreworks -- I've actually gotten to the point of just leaving the 2" thick concrete block in my garage and using it as an indicator for my wife on how far she can park... There's also the classic tennis ball hanging from a string from the ceiling, but because the windshield is curved, that would alter the position where she parked slightly. I put a landscaping brick on the end of the concrete block to stop the car from rolling over it and the car's final parking spot is on top of the 2" concrete block... This extra 2" helps my old knees a bit when I'm getting out of the vehicle... My wife's depth perception is not that great, so I have to make it as idiot-proof as possible...

Thanks! Yes those clear plastic lines feel sketchy but when you do the calculations on such a small diameter line it isn't so bad. I have it now routed inside the handles since I've decided to keep it so less likely to get damaged.

​​@@jtreworks that line did look to be in a perilous position at the bottom, prone to scuffing and pinching. Slot was supposed to be oriented towards the inside rather than the outside.

calculate again. 1euro is now 1.05 U$

@@MrTavionyxx exchange all you want still rip off you actually reading what u wrote last

I'm not sure how you got the $700 but I bought this when the prices of many things where I live were still quite expensive. If I were to convert the price I paid $250cad tax included it would be 185 euros at today's conversion rate. Yes, it's a lot more than 104 euros but there was no cheaper option for me to purchase it in Canada. Not to mention some things just cost more here in Canada, for context an economy hydraulic quick lift jack was about the same price. Also, I'm sure there are some things I can purchase here that would cost more in Europe. All in all, I don't regret my purchase and I don't feel ripped off since it suited my needs(space constraints in my garage) and I had a fair idea of what I was getting into. It has also allowed me to shorten how long it takes me to do all the tire changeovers I do. If I felt the price wasn't worth it, I probably wouldn't have purchased it and continued to use my slow trolly jack. Thanks for watching.

They were all bought within a few months so def could've been from the same batch. I had no problems with Milton customer support when I contacted them about the problem with these fittings and they offered to replace them with their newer 5 in 1 safety coupler which I've been using for just over a year now and they're great. Thanks for watching!

I'm not sure if I mentioned it in the video but when I was filming this I was still unsure if I was going to keep the jack. The hose was not trimmed to be the proper length so this was the best way to rout it. I do have it routed properly now. Thanks for watching.

I bought it via Amazon so prices can change but I paid $220 CAD

LMFAO

There is a USA built version of this called RakJak by Zendex. The only problem is I can't justify the massive price difference since I do not use this equipment to make any income. The cheapest I can get the Zendex 3 bag air jack with the long handle here in Canada is about $1500. I paid about $250 for the Vevor air jack and will probably only put about another $100 into it at the very most and maybe a couple hours of my own time. If I was running a shop as a business yes I would probably buy the Zendex one. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for sharing!

I've already used it for 2 oil changes and it's working fine so far, obviously I use jack stands. There's no way I would trust any floor jack to hold a vehicle in the air while working on it. I even use a pole to place jackstands if I can't easily place them by hand like under the axels of a longbox truck. Thanks for your input!

@@jtreworks I was referring to the quality of Chinese rubber . I like the idea just would not trust the quality

@@shawnl3154 I would hope it's at least half decent quality considering the amount of Chinese tires on the road(different rubber product I know). I'll eventually get to a tear down once I get tire season over with and deal with taking all the summer stuff out of storage.