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@@ViperCoPinkVipers air hammer to put in a slit. But you can also use a chisel or saw to make a slit and just use a Flat head screw driver to turn them out

@@iTzKiNG1 I'd recommend checking the wiring first. You'd be surprised what a little short could cause.

@@Duggie.Douglas Ty

You could keep the old ignition and key but will have to call a car locksmith to get it programmed to the ECU

@@Duggie.Douglas thank you!

The ECM is programmed to the key cylinder (Colume piece) For this to be plug in play and not require a computer/key reprogramming you must replace together.

@@ericwoods898 it uses the same charger as the other Kimo tools that share the battery

@CivicNation734 because it's Programmed to the ECU. So it saved me from having to programming to the replacement ECU.

All of them are. You are to create Slits and use a screwdriver or impact driver and they come undone. They should be tamper proof bolts not rivets

Secured by like 1-2 10mm bolts but it alittle battle sqeezing out the space. So taking it out with a camera in hand isn't feasible

Estoy usando el Traductor de Google. Si desea cambiar el motor, deberá cambiar la computadora (ECU) por una VTEC. Si sacas el transpondedor/interruptor de encendido y la llave del mismo auto, todo será plug-and-play.

I really appreciate if you used a translator and answer my question , because this week I’ll work in my car but if I can get the same engine harness and ECU ignition and key is plug and play You’ll save some money

Check out trans fluid and solenoids. If both check out fine your trans might be on its way out.

If not ebay, check Car-parts.com, or junkyards

@@Duggie.Douglas If I get it from the junkyard then I’d have to call a locksmith to cut a key and program it right? In your opinion which way is cheapest?

@@joelcasas7222 If you get just the computer then yes you'll need to have it programmed. If you get the corresponding ignition and key then its just plug and play . Cheapest route is to just get a computer ignition and key from a junkyard and doing the swap yourself.

@@Duggie.Douglas will it still pass inspection with a new ecu and ignition etc im thinking of buying a set on ebay and putting it in my car whats the process to get it working jn the car

I purchased my replacement off of Ebay

If you purchase the corresponding ignition switch and key yes. It'll already be programmed together

So with my situation my ECM was so bad it wouldn't even allow me to read codes. A few people had similar issues like you did. Most had positive feedback after replacing the computer.

I have the same problem you have, im refurbishing my computer

If you do it like how I did (purchase a used ECU, with corresponding immobilizer w/ keys) then it'll be plug and play. If you get just an ecu or immobilizer, you'll have to get them programmed into one another.

If you're referring to the ones on the Steering Column you must make a slit into them. Then you can use a flathead and an impact driver/hammer. Honda from Factory made them smooth because they weren't meant to come out, so you must make a slit to unscrew them.

So like in the video if you get the ECM from the same Gen civic an get the matching/corresponding Ignition solenoid w/ key it's plug and play when you replace both. If you replace the computer you'll have to get it programmed

For the purpose of demonstration I left it to show everything working. After filming I bolted everything back to their right spots

So if you get a used ECU with the ignition cylinder and key then no since it's all programed together already. If you just get a ecu/ecm then yes you'll have to have the key and cylinder programed to it

Si el velocímetro es el único problema Verifique que la caja de fusibles dentro del automóvil no tenga un fusible quemado. Si no hay un fusible quemado o una mala conexión, es posible que el velocímetro esté defectuoso y deba reemplazarse. Puedes comprarlos usados y no son tan difíciles de reemplazar.

@@Duggie.Douglas voy a checarlo gracias y llevo con mi honda desde el 2010 y apenas fallo eso antes de q pasara esto se apagaba y se prendía habían veces q duraba prendido sin apagarse y de pronto se escuchaba cuando lo apagaba y lo mantenía en switch para mantener el estereo prendido se escuchaba como si hubiese un raton en el tablero pero lógico no se escuchaba trtrtrtrrrrr me imagino ya era d q fallaría se escuchaba así durante medio año aproximadamente pero si quizá sea reemplazar el velocimetro y esto paso apenas q llego a los 150,000 kms y eh visto varios tutoriales en TH-cam q masomenos a ese kilometraje comienzan a fallar Ya lo anduve buscando y esta usado en 2000 pesos mexicanos yo creo si lo tendré q cambiar eh visto q dicen q luego también es cambiar el sensor de velocidad pero para q le juego ya me dijeron 2 especialistas q mejor lo cambie q es eso Te agradezco mucho por tu ayuda y atención muchas gracias ya t estoy siguiendo excelente contenido felicidades 👏

If you buy it with a matching ignition switch then you won't need to. If you just buy a PCM you'll have to program it

Throttle body still doing amazing and loved. The catch can is doing its job for its price point. There is way better for alot more money. Sadly Phastek doesn't seem to sell this exact Catch Can no more but there's others on the site and you can this Billet CatchCan still on the internet

@@Duggie.Douglas thanks👑

73mm if im correct

The reason why I think the computer is broken is the previous owner did a shitty alternator job one of the top bolts weren’t even tight alternator was just going back-and-forth so I’m going to buy a new alternator bracket and used computer at a junkyard and ignition just trying to figure out if I need too Match the same numbers off my old computer to the newer one I’m trying to get or do I just need to make sure it’s non-VTEC as mine is and power windows and standard just need to match it or

what size is it?

@@Jordanbrezeing 10mm

Noooooooooooooooooooo, match the part number, don't mix and match! :D

I actually went to the dealer and the guy told me that it had to come off from an EX, that it didn't matter if it was auto or manual (I have an EX). The only difference I see is an extra black plug. I know some systems, both the engine and trans are managed by the ECU (Engine Control Module) I'm going to have to try and see what happens

What complaint???

not getting product out on time. I don't know about now. maybe he was having a hard time getting what he needs?@@nicothegloden1930

@@nicothegloden1930 hes MIA

Correct. As long as it's out of the same make and model and years

You could always check Ebay. That seems to be the best bet for a whole plug and play setup