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It doesn't. It's not a how to video... It's a timelapse... hence the title

Just to please you my dude, your opinion matters👍🏼

Y yo!

I'm in northwest Ohio but honestly that xr400 got sold to a guy up in Wisconsin so it might be the same bike lol

@@whatisupproductions441 yeah it was for sale in Wisconsin I remember on fb marketplace, shame the guy he sold it to didn't appreciate the bike

Its actually from ebay. I looked for one fitting the dimensions I was looking for and they had a generic Chinese one that I bought

Is Lenny Roberts any relation to Kenny? Sorry, couldn't resist. Actually I probably can already ride like Lenny but not like Kenny

It rides pretty decent on the street. With the YZ transmission I took 2 teeth off the rear sprocket. It topped out in the high 70's and got there pretty quick. The WR400F transmission would have been a lot better choice because it is a wider ratio trans. As far as road use, these early model 4 stroke Yamahas tend to run pretty hot and glow the pipe so as long as you can keep it cool with big radiators and limiting your idle time at lights you will be ok

They like new piston rings

I get all of mine from ebay but I would steer clear of the aluminum bolts. They're super easy to strip. I usually go with stainless bolts

So to be honest I don't have a sandblasting cabinet large enough for a motorcycle frame but I can explain to you what I had to do last time I blasted a frame. So basically last time I did it I pulled the gun and the pickup out of the blasting cabinet and I filled a 5 gallon bucket full of the media. Then I pulled a removable bed liner out of a truck to do the blasting in to catch all of the media (you can use other things like a tarp or whatever but I had the bed liner at my disposal). Then you suit up in a heavy coat, long pants, and some kind of helmet or face shield so you don't blast your bare skin. Then go to town blasting the frame. To be honest its pretty miserable lol. Its more of a summer time thing that you do outside of the shop so you don't make a mess. And being bundled up in the heat of the summer isn't a lot of fun. Not to mention getting the media all in your clothes and you'll always find a way to blast your bare skin lol. If you end up going that route be sure to be patient because you'll want a lot of breaks lol.

Thanks man! 🙂

It was about 2 5/16 inches in the front and I'm not 100 percent sure how much the rear was lowered but I replaced the stock link with an 11mm longer one

It was off of a mid 70's gt80

@@whatisupproductions441 nice build... mind of I ask a few questions?

@@michaelgray2987 for sure go ahead

@@whatisupproductions441 would you mind forwarding a how and what build up on the bike. Would like to build something Luke yours . Thanks

@@michaelgray2987 Well the bike is a 1999 yz400f. I used that as my platform because the 1998-2005 4 stroke yamahas had a steel frame with a single bar backbone. That allowed me to use an old school tank. The newer aluminum frame bikes have a 2 bar backbone that cradles the tank and isn't compatible with old school tanks. The rear fender was a saddleman rear fender. I made sure to buy a tank and seat/rear fender that would fit up to each other (rear of the tank was 7.5 inches and the front of the tail section was also 7.5 inches). I made a longer rear shock linkage to lower the rear of the bike slightly and as you saw in the video I cut the springs in the forks to both stiffen and lower the front of the bike. To do that you have to really tear into the forks and add a spacer to the top out spring. That keeps a preload on the spring so that there isn't a few inches of play at the bottom of the fork when you lift the front of the bike. Thats a lot of good videos that go really in depth on showing what exactly to do when putting shorter springs in. (Btw if you do it to an older yamaha you have to drill out some plugs because they aren't designed to be torn apart like that). As far as the rear subframe, I just cut up the old one and got it mocked up so that the tail section would sit nicely on it. Then I tack welded it where I wanted it and pulled it off to weld it the rest of the way. We have a vinyl cutter for the decals so I just found the style I wanted for the tank and cut them. The tail section decals I drew up myself on the computer and then cut them on the vinyl cutter also. And as far as the street legal stuff, tusk sells street legal kits for a lot of different types of dirt bikes and installation is pretty straight forward. The headlight I kind of wish I would have done differently but the one that is on there is just an led that was in the accessory light section at Walmart. I just wired that to a constant 12v that I got with the tusk kit so whenever the switch is on its on. Sorry its kinda long and I probably wasn't extremely thorough with a lot of things. If you want to know anything more specific I'd be glad to tell you about it

Right on! I'll definitely be checking it out

I wouldn't necessarily say it was easy. It wasn't super hard but it was definitely time consuming. The quarantine gave me some extra time to get it done though lol

Sand blasting usually does a pretty good job

Hey sorry it took me a few days to see your comment. Overall it's not super hard to do. It seems more intimidating than it actually is and it helps to take pictures of everything you take apart and label bolts in sandwich bags. As far as how long it took, it took a couple hours to drop the motor with 3 of us and that was mostly because we were being overly cautious. Once the motor was out, the swap took me a few hours. Its probably a day project if you take your time or have never worked on a bike transmission before. And putting the motor back in and wired back up is probably about an hour or 2 project. As far as I know the 2000's are the same as the 2003's so this video should be relevant for you. And as far as tools go, you'll need a jack and atleast one friend for engine removal and to put it back in, and basic metric sockets, wrenches and allen wrenches. Allen sockets are nice too. There are a couple tight Phillips head bolts that I used an impact driver with a Phillips bit and a hammer on. And you will definitely need a torque wrench. And also to be honest, the service manual I bought to do the project didnt help at all lol. I'm not saying that there aren't better manuals you can use but I will say it is doable without a manual.

I started with "Alloy Silver" to get an even base on the whole frame and then the top coat is a translucent blue called "Intense Blue." The powder I use comes from prismatic powders

@@koma7252 I havent had any issues but I also haven't put powder coat in a lot of extreme conditions. I've done some exhausts and they seem to be doing fine

@@whatisupproductions441 So did you partially cure the Alloy Silver before applying the top coat of blue? And was it easy to apply the second coat, the blue, with the Eastwood gun?

I'm up in Norwalk, Ohio

Aw man that's perfect! I'm out in Columbus...