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WD 40 is just a water-repellent that happens to have a thousand uses as well.

With a rtt.

I see your point but if you want to accurately measure things then the people measuring care.

While I agree that you can dispute this in 2 minutes, most people need to know why. You already know and are likely wise to scams but, many people are not. So a longer video is necessary.

I agree regarding the water trap but the water element is not a huge amount and makes no odds. It is just vapour not running water. I'm not sure about air leaking out 30% faster than nitrogen and you can't fill the tyres with less or more nitrogen when you use air. Air is a blend of gases which all contain water vapour including the nitrogen element so no, it wouldn't reduce the water content. The issue is here that water is not significant and not all compressors have water traps fitted. Only one's used for paint spraying generally have water traps.

@andysaunders3708 I have not heard that, but I haven't heard it either. What I'm saying is I don't know

Nice job but that is quite a lot more money around $510 AUD. I have ordered some cutters and still waiting for them to arrive.

Yes, you can do it, remove all the intercooler and air intake pipes to get the top of the turbo as clear as possible. I did mine with the rocker cover removed which does make it easier. However, next remove the bolts for the oil feed pipe and the oil drain pipe. Once they are done, remove the 4 exhaust nuts. These are nuts on studs and the stud may come out if the nut is stuck. Then you can awkwardly get to the 3 nuts that hold the turbo to the manifold. Use an open-ended spanner on them if you can't get anything else on them. You can buy rebuild kits on eBay, I think the turbo was fitted to a Subaru and a Saab as well. I bought a Subaru rebuild kit and it seemed fine. Use high temp grease like high temp copper cote on the nuts and washers especially on the exhaust side and you may have a hope undoing them next time. I hope this helps you.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel ok thanks ile give it a go thanks again

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel thank you

@@pkgoldopalhunting No worries, if you get stuck, yell out

@@pkgoldopalhunting Note, if you get a rebuild kit, the turbo does not use seals at the ends of the shaft, it deflects the oil back into the turbo.

Sorry Ben, never thought to ask.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel Why would you? Same reason I never thought to ask you.

(Ben)

@@MiniLuv-1984 Yes, you heard right $70. I got the tent free from 4WD Supacentre when it failed to sell as an ex demo because some parts were missing. The tie down clamps were missing, the window rods and the elastic straps which helps it collapse. I found the clamps in the back store but had to buy both the window rods and elastic straps which cost around $70 including postage.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel Bloody brilliant!

Thank you for your kind words

Yes she does, thanks Ben

You know, I agree, I have driven quite a few 4WDs and the Jackaroo is the best 4WD I have driven too. Where I differ is the reason I don't own a $75K 4WD. My reason is because it appears that Nissan and Toyota are the only cars people think are any good. This drives me mad.

There is a simple reason for that, the damaged turbo is a cheap Chinese turbo which failed and whined like a dog stuck in a bear trap. The turbo's used by Isuzu are way better and can easily be rebuilt with a kit. Besides, that is what I had.available. Furthermore, there was nothing wrong with the old turbo when I replaced it.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel Whine, scream, bang, yes something for me to look forward to.

I have a disassembled injector sitting right next to me now.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel That would be a great little video for those looking to replace their own injectors internal seals

Never thought of that

4jx1 forever :)

That is a difficult one to diagnose as I haven't heard of a hydraulic roar before. This makes me think it might be something to do with the High-Pressure Oil Pump as they can fail. I was going to say that it might be the RPCV but you've looked at that. One other quick solution is to try some contact cleaner and clean out the injector harness plug near the oil dipstick, it might be giving spurious signals as oil leeches in there and can cause strange behaviour. If it is left too long, the oil can reach the ECU plugs too and get in there as well. th-cam.com/video/cOx5rGaJ-1Y/w-d-xo.html

That goes against what I was told, it is the multi strand wires that allow capillary action that gets the oil to the plug from all the harness wires

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel Capillary action still requires a source. The 6 internal connections are all triple lip sealed onto the 4 injectors, oil temp sensor, rail pressure sensor. All the 10 pink wires are internally sealed and are unable to suck oil in through their pink insulation. There is no oil pressure coming from the injector coils - so not the source. The oil temp sensor internals are sealed in a metal housing - so not the source. The RAIL PRESSURE sensor has on openning direct to the hi-press oil - BINGO, the source :) Eventually its internal seal fails (like the internal injector o-rings) This leakage then forces its way to the 3 pin connector and into the 3 pink wires continuing into the external connector. Approx 7 years ago I nicked those 3 pink wires on the enngine side of that connector. Inside the connector remains dry. Yet I have oil at the 3 nicked pink wires. Where does that oil from the 3 pink wires come from and connect to ? The RAIL PRESSURE sensor.

Yes and I have been running on 1 glow plug too. They are not really required except for freezing environments.

I have two spare heads so not at this time but I'd repair them if I had to

Ben, I think the important thing is to get them alloy welded and then work the weld so that it is smooth. Any raised area in the piston chamber would get red-hot and stay hot and cause pre-ignition in a petrol engine. It may do the same in a diesel although not as much. If my son could aluminium weld, then I might have tried a repair but paying for it, I am not too certain it is worth the cost given that I have spares.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel And you want to make sure its done properly - covering the crack without digging it out properly is probably not a wise use of time/$ I'm glad you have the spare heads though - Much better option!!!

I could only find 100AMP output BMS that were 12V at a reasonable price.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel ok can you put it on a 120ah battery i dont know much about this, what one you put on yours

First thing is what oil are you using?

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel I'm using 15/40 I asked for api 5/30 and they told me that when the motors are worn out, put this other 15/40. Surely that's wrong...

I was using the Oricom battery monitor. However, I have just ordered two new BMS with Bluetooth modules. If you can wait a week or so they are due on the 31st July. I reckon they might be a better option.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel ok so the kings dont have a bluetooth

Ben, not sure that diesel has the same cleaning power as petrol

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel You don't want to inject petrol in the intake of a diesel or do you?

@@MiniLuv-1984 Some sort type of vacuum fed intake cleaner drip feed into the pipe from filter housing does not sound that silly, glad I thought of it :)

@@MiniLuv-1984 of course not, but I have seen a video where someone was feeding water into their intakes to clean them th-cam.com/video/LFQUIGe7eRA/w-d-xo.html

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel Water injection is generally used to cool the intake charge, haven't heard of it being used for cleaning, so thanks for the link Dave.

Now that is an interesting result because mine was doing that too. Thanks for the info, however, perhaps looking at why the EGR delete has stopped the smoke is a better idea. Resolving the problem instead of hiding it is a much better solution.

I'm sorry but I don't see what your point is here?

​@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel A pressurized system stresses the radiator, heater core, hoses, coolant channels. gaskets, seals etc. A NONpressurized system doesn't. 50/50 coolant water mix AND a pressure cap allows high eng temps before the system boils. 100% pure coolant mix WITHOUT a pressure cap allows even higher eng temps before boiling. Hasn't happened yet to me yet. No pressure, no boil, long life without hassles :) eg Mine 4JX1 since new Oct 2000 now 380k. Always pure 100% coolant, no pressure cap, use TOP seal only for recovery into expansion tank. ALL original radiator, water pump, thermostat, no leaks, no weeps. Have done the same on my 2006 Adventra CX6. Both cars, hot stop/start traffic with air NEVER BOILS, temp guage stays constant winter or hot summer. .. ONLY time I would consider a pressure cap would be long summer heavy towing or hours of slow crawl 4WDing

My legs don't get cold, I think it was $24.95 delivered

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel I use to be like that...not anymore.

@@MiniLuv-1984 It's all relative to where you live and how long you've been there. Personally, I feel bogged down in pants, they are just too restrictive for me.

Of course there is, I would suggest looking at some Facebook groups to find someone. What specifically were you wanting to know?

A bit cold for me mate....lol Seriously I would move up there tomorrow, sick of this cold weather

Hi mate, I could do but I haven't really had any issues with the EGR or with sooting up etc. I'll have a think about that one. Thanks mate

You will need to identify what the issue is being caused by. Have you made any changes lately such as an engine service?

I ran the engine without a catch can for about 18 months. I am not convinced that it was as bad as it looks in the video. However, it needed a good clean out.

Sorry Ben but I was supposed to email you before I launched the video, I forgot

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel You don't need to worry about that. Things change with time and show their true colours.

Thanks for your support. Luckily, eBay has given me a free return label and will repay me. They will also recover their loses from the seller.

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel great stuff mate

Thanks for the tip. Will do

Have you thought about asking to see if anyone has one on the FB groups and asking them to post it to the UK?

@@thejackaroo4WDcampingchannel No Dave, I hadn’t thought of that…thank you, I’ll take a look. Get well soon 💪

Thanks for your concern Ben, I am a lot better now, got my taste and smell back. Well on the mend, which is just as well because my idler and relay arm are coming today. I am 99% certain that the issue is a head gasket so I am also looking forward to removing the head. I will film this too.