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PSE Mach 33 spacers snap in and out without removing axle. Good video, but removing strings and axles is too much for me. Especially if you have to do it more than once

Got new strings and now have low tear. Cannot straighten it out with rest. Will try this. Thanks

Moving the string or moving the rest accomplish the same thing. The rest and string just need to be inline. If you have problems after that it's your shooting from that is the problem.

Thank you! exactly what I was looking for!

Great in depth video.

No need to take both eclips off.

Yup!! Done this several times!. Works great

Hey man ! Thanks for the video! I’ve been stuck with the same consistent tear , tried everything ,yoke, spine, rest, timing, grip, I just keep getting the same tear . I knew from other videos this was the only thing left to try … your video gave me the confidence to try. I’m getting great groups with the bow as it is but I’m trying to take it a step further and get my broad heads to group with fieldpoints, at the moment they are just to the right. I’ll be testing results tomorrow and keep adjusting if I need to , took me half an hour to swap the shims. And thanks to the comments I managed to do it without removing the strings cause my timing is set pretty good. So thanks again for taking the time to help others with your video .

Does it make you lose speed?

Very impressed. Excellent vid.

Thank you for making this video. I consider myself somewhat of an "expert" when it comes to archery but I have learned a few new tips and tricks that will solidify taking me to the next level.

Could have moved the D loop, or the rest been done way faster. Like hr faster

How much speed did you lose after adding the speed knocks?

Hi, nice video. I own a 2018 pse expedite and I would like to start tuning my own bow. It will be nice if you could explain why moving the cam to left when seeing a left tear on paper and at the end of the video yo said you had to move your rest because you could still see a little bit of a left tear on paper but you did not say which direction you had to move the rest to and why. Thank you.

Would it be acceptable to back out the bottom limb bolt a little bit to reduce the limb force? Would that also accomplish the same thing?

you mention "you knew" the cams needed adjusted. how did you know? what are you looking for to make that determination or what symptoms did you have?

Awesome Video brother! Very informative. I have a PSE 3BXL with the same issue, and I'm going to invest in a press and do this myself thanks to your help. You made it look pretty simple, and gave me some confidence. Thanks!

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I had 100 up front and had that same tear until I added 120 up front and it’s not shooting a bullet hole.only lost 7fps and you adding those brass nocks I’m sure you would loose more.

Appreciate the video!

For most Pse bows, do you need to purchase shims or should you be able to do what you have to with what’s on the bow?

Great job and I appreciate the fact that you acknowledge you're not a professional. I shoot a Hoyt and it has the shims that require a press in order to remove the axle, however, it pretty simple with the right equipment. Very good video quality.

Thank you man; don't be so modest, you are an excellent teacher!

Great video. Thanks foe sharing 👍

Couldn’t you back off the bottom limb bolt a 1/16 to 1/8? Or go up on rest spring rate?

MOVING THE SIGHT CLOSER OR FARTHER FROM THE BOW CHANGES NOTHING ABOUT HOW THE ARROW LEAVES THE BOW. If a bow/arrow combo is tuned properly and you put that bow on a shooting machine, the arrows will, within reason, always leave the bow the same way and hit the same spot on the target. If you don't change the setup of the bow on the machine, or the position of the machine relative to the target, then moving the sight pin up, down, left, right, forward OR backwards will change nothing about the way the arrow leaves the bow or the flight of the arrow, and the arrow will still hit the same spot on the target. Torquing the bow will obviously change things, but moving the sight in or out will not. Changing the distance from the ARROW REST to the string changes the pivot point of the arrow, which will change the trajectory of the arrow when it leaves the bow. TORQUE TUNING REQUIRES MOVING THE ARROW REST IN OR OUT. If I am wrong, please explain how.

Now, I have seen video after video talking about shimming cams to tune a broadhead. I, in my 62 years have never had to do that. Now I have not shot the full 62 years of course, but I was an indoor 300 competitive shooter. Also a life long bow Hunter. Just my opinion, but can shimming should not be a thing. There is another issue. Find it and fix that. If it’s your grip, get it right. Also, too many bows without a grip at all, when back in my day they all came with three. You picked the one that for your hand the best and installed that one. We need to get back to interchangeable grips on the bows again. Everyone’s hands are different. So just my input, stop messing with the factory set I’m and find why your broadhead a won’t tune. Maybe just poor broadheads also.

this video is exactly, what i'm looking for. i was angry about my nock, which had to be outside the square to have a good paper test. thank you very much.

Why not just move your rest?

I’ve seen some do this with their rest does it matter either or does one benefit more than the other ?

At what point do you decide your cams need adjusted? What to look for on the paper or on our bows that says it’s cams are off ?

Did you move your test to the left or right at the end to clear it up even more?

Just ordered these and im hoping without a wrap on my VAP SS these will be okay and hoping a 3 fletch left helical 2.25” driver is enough to stabalize the smaller tooth of the arrow heads, or ill go with the 3 blade grim reaper hades head. Wanted a solid head, switching back to fixed this year. If you have not….try Bob Smith Industries glue. The pink “Maxi-Cure” label. This glue is insaneee and its the same type TAC brand recommend but an overall insane adhesion and a little thicker too

I just cant put the second pin back on! 😭 im losing my mind!!!

Quick question. I am getting a consistent tear right, just opposite of your tear left. Should I move my cams to the right then to see if that helps?

You can also back off the poundage A 1/4 turn at A time. Cleans it right up also.low tear drop the poundage on the bottom limb.

Whaaaaat??? 🤯🤯🤯 It’s amazing how many ways there are to get a bow to tune. This is a neat method, might try it on my MXR. In slow mo, it’s obvious the bottom cam is accelerating faster than the top cam, but everything is in time, so I didn’t know there was actually a way to solve this problem. I just chalked it up to being a “budget” bow, and that’s just the way it is. But this could solve that problem.

Nice job

Somebody can show you how to remove E clips, without them taking flight. Install wasn't bad but there's an easier method. Basically a small screwdriver to remove, needle nose to install. Videos available on TH-cam demoing this.

What size are those Tac vanes? Thanks

Not sure why you don’t have more clicks/views in this but this was as simple and precise as it gets man! Nice job man! I appreciate it. 👊🏽

No one gives a fuck, just put the vanes on that’s what the video is about right then do it

I don't get it. In some videos they say if you have a nock right tear move the rest to the left. And if you have a nock left tear move the rest to the right. To me that doesn't make sense because if an arrow is hitting nock right that means your field tip of your arrow is pointing towards the left as it's flying. Wouldn't it make better sense to move the rest towards the right if you have a nock right tear so it steers the arrow towards the right so it flies straight?

I thought you had to be at least an arrows length away from the chrono..

Been running them for a season and they have done great. Haven’t had any issues with them sticking to carbon but aluminum not so well. I have done some experiments with noise and these as well as the heat vane we’re by far the quietest. Overall the Tac is my favorite hunting and 3D vane. Indoor I run the aae hybrid 26 and that has done quite well.

I wish more manufactures would be honest about vertical issues. I’ve seen one brand in particular that throws a nock low 6-7/10x. I’ve asked and asked and always told they’ve never heard of that. I, too, will not advance the cam, drop the rest, or raise the height past the berger. Awesome video, that tells you something to try outside of the industry standard. Great work!

You said you could put EC cams on the XF if you want. Can you go the other way and put E2 cams on the EVL?

I have similar tear left on my PSE Evolve 35 that I bought used. Overall the bow is in good condition, but the bottom cam leans left (as in top of it leans left) while the top cam is pretty much straight. I'm about to shim the bottom one and test if I can get both straight and see how it goes.

Awesome video! Thanks for sharing! When dealing with this, I just switched the limb positions around to have the stiffer limbs on the top. Found more success that way

I’ve actually always had a slight nock high tear on my hunting set up and just always left it. Wow this is going to be a game changer. Thank u