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If you can get a bucket of those extra strong alchohol wipe things that construction workers use they work quite well

Use a Non Polar solvent. Oder-less mineral sprits is one. I would not use acetone but if it works for you.

What you are doing is what I have been trying to do. When you cut the paper and glue it, I have been concerned that the vertical & horizontal cut lines of the paper (white edge of paper lines) would be visible. I could not tell from this video, the lines appear to disappear. Are the white edge of paper lines visible in person?

Absolutely magnificent video. The model train club I belong to is going to use a ctc system. Hopefully that means using colour light signals for the main lines

damn that mask is scary as hell lol😐

Keep your tracks dry and don't scratch them. The CMX is the best tool I have ever used. I used acetone only once in the CMX and just one accidental drop on the locomotive did a lot of damage to the locomotive. I swear by my CMX and I use Diggers Methylated spirits - 95% ethyl alcohol - yes the 5% is questionable but some products are less than 70% - but four passes on main line or sidings every 6 months and I don't have any problems. Yes I ditched the track rubber and in the yards I am polishing the tracks to remove damage caused by track rubbers, so that a couple of passes with the CMX is all I need. What a difference because yards are harder to clean. And yes some alcohols leave more carbon on the tracks, but those oil based stuff such as inox and whayl oil slip the wheels and reduce traction - I have a serious helix to navigate. Use the other stuff if you don't have inclines

4:18 what's wrong with this picture? 1. No Block Detector! you need a block detector or the signal will be wrong. 2. No Interlocking Control Board! your switch needs to be wired to a interlocking control board to slots 1 through 3 for Atlas and slots 5 through 7 for Tortoise or other manufactures. and 3. the signals are wired incorrectly and the jumpers are not set to the correct mode. On each board you need to set some jumpers according to the manufacture BLMA and Atlas signals you set the second to 1 for BLMA and to 3 for Atlas which is default the third and forth jumper are for aspects see the Atlas signal book and wiring book on the website for instructions. Green over Green is wrong this aspect is never used in the US because it can trigger a collision the correct aspects are Flashing Yellow over Green, Fleshing Yellow over Lunar, Yellow over Green, Yellow over Red, Red over Lunar, and Flashing Red over Red. How you fix this is on a double head signal plug in the jack to the #3 board and install a BD 20 to the Block 3 wire wrapping the feeder wire around the tombstone block twice. Next connect a green wire to the signal control board from the BD 20 and connect common and ground to the BD 20 and to the Interlocking Module and connect the other end of the green wire to the jack labeled RIN or Red Input this way when the main is occupied by a train in the trailing point direction the siding shows Red unless the switch is thrown in the facing point direction from Block 1.

Reach out to me at Earnest Trains I would be interesting in printing these!

Very cool.

I cannot belive you're using Lightwave to design these cars. My hat is off to you!

Beautiful result, thanks for sharing. I did notice that the SunPe model was resin printed at an angle to get it to fit on the print bad. Have you revisited this in light of modern, larger capacity resin printers? I would be interested in seeing if we've now moved into a realm for getting a reliably consistent print from a consumer printer like the Anycubic Mono X 6Ks ($239 06/24).

Hello, I just came across this video and it's perfect for what I want to do. Question, how did you or do scale the picture down to HO scale?

Excellent video - do you think current 3D printers have advanced to the point that you would do this project at home?

Waiting patiently for my P42 to delivery...five horizons, one amfleet and a NPCU also waiting to be teaming up to the typical consist!

I really need more amtrak stuff other than a single baggage car

I'd like to see a WES commuter rail DMU.

Thank you for the vieo. Any reason you run the CMX backwards?

Love the Mount Rushmore!!

How do I move the jp2 to the alternate position??

I have a problem with a 3 block basic mainline and siding I'd like to see if you have some suggestions. When I throw the turnout to the main and back to the siding and it doesn’t clear until a train moves out of the siding block. Is there some way i can DM you for some advice?

Would you consider doing the Amtrak Auto Racks since no one does them?

A wonderful railroad that shows all the work put into it by a very skilled modeller. But the views were spoiled by the monotonous music. If someone has DCC sound locos then you don't need music added too. Thumbs up for the railroad cab ride and thumbs down for the music.

😲😲😲😲😲😵‍💫😵‍💫😵 mind blown! This is the best layout and carbide I've ever seen!

Hi quick question will the hook up you did with the tortoise and signal work as the atlas interlocking boards? I haven't seen one in operation but was curious if you recently used one. If not like to do what you did in video thanks great work.Tom

Made simple. ok.

Has anyone taken a look at the newer signal system by Model Train Technology? It looks very good to me.

Looks good! Wondering about keeping the joints between sheets of paper tight or overlapped so joints don't show?

This is great! Beautiful layout.

I honestly don't know why it's taking model train companies this long to make California cars. At least Athearn is making some, and hopefully they won't be limited runs.

Fantastic

How does this work when turnouts are manual? Or powered with factory motor (in my case KATO)?

Wonderful video brother, you spoke to me as if I was a child that had no idea even what a computer was. Which in this era of my life is exactly what is needed! 😂😂 Thank you and I will subscribe for more!

Meaningless "Gobbledook" to anyone NOT familiar with the really "primitve" signalling methods used in the USA. Most of which would be totally prohibited in Europe as Highly Dangerous.

dude you need to start your own factory making your own coaches and engine's, they are just amazing.

Would you be willing to sell the STL file for that F125 some day.

Also, rubbing alcohol is hi in water content

1:10 There is no such thing as a "target signal" ... this is unfortunately-persistent misnomer. In North America (and Canada) these are the common and historically-common designs of signals: - Lower-quadrant semaphore - only displays two aspects per arm. - Upper-quadrant semaphore - displays up to three aspects per arm. - Colorlight - discrete lens per aspect; can be arranged vertically, horizontally, or triangularly. These are often called "Style D", "Style E" and "Style G" based on prototypical catalog descriptions. - Searchlight - one lens for multiple aspects, effected with a movable vane mechanism that places a colored roundel in the light path. Max of three aspects. Technically these are a specialized form of colorlight signal. - Unilens - Like searchlights but effected by fiber optics with dedicated internal lamps. Up to 4 aspects. Today can now be done better with LEDs. - Position-Light - Mimic upper-quadrant semaphore arm positions with rows (chains) of 3 (initially 4) lamps. Aspects typically "fog penetrating yellow" colored. (Pennsylvania Railroad) - Color-Position-Light - One central head with up to 4 pairs of colored lamps that mimic semaphore arm positions; this head indicates block state. Surrounded by up to 6 marker lamps to indicate speed requirements. (Baltimore and Ohio Railroad) - Position-Color-Light - Special colorized version of Position-Light signals that don't use the central pivot lamp, with all the other lamp aspects colored to mimic upper-quadrant semaphore night colors. (Amtrak)

How much are you selling the metrolink f125 body shell?

I used a relay that I hooked up to the double head signal. Green was on top red on the bottom. When switch was thrown the signal heads would change color to indicate that the train either goes straight or enters the switch.

Great story!

That 4-pin connector you were looking for? It is from Amphenol ICC / FCI. Part number 10114829-10104LF. Shhh don't tell anyone : )

Great video and was wondering why you didn't home print just before you said you were looking at a kit release. BTW - that background music is super annoying and not necessary IMO - I was enjoying your narration a lot more and actually left the video early because of the muZak. Otherwise really super@!

Do you know what voltage the atlas boards send out? Have some signals but not sure how they'll work. Thanks tom

hi do you have the template so i can work out the sizings

Ok I have watched your videos serval times now ,so to get me started for each signal head, I need a control board plus a power supply, still have a lot more to learn but this a start, also subscribed to your channel

nice layouts and trains

Super. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.

Cool layout

Where can I get the trucks, boogies and wheels best for this kit. Is there anyone making actual sprung boogies for HO scale? Finishing looks fantastic.

Bruh where did u get the f59phi and the california cars