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@@Mike-bg2bi hi! Thats a kegland spunding “blow tie” but i would not recommend it personally. They are very cheaply made and pretty poor quality. Good for a few uses but i would suggest investing in a more robust keg ball lock spunding valve made from stainless steel from another brand. Kegland is poor quality equipment.

@@jakem8996 thanks! They are normal standard sized 202 CDL end type lids. I get my cans from a local homebrew shop (brewshop.no) but i also get some of the specialty “sleek” cans that are also 202 sized from a friend at a macro brewery.

@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks! I've got one on order for my microbrewery in the US. Seriously, your videos are a work of art. Prost!

@@jakem8996 nice! Thanks a million! Appreciate that.

@@rljjanssen its not branded. I did a video on it recently with all the details. I imported it myself from a seamer factory in hong kong.

@@hmmpof no its not. Generally its ok for 60L batches but for 80L batches you need a bit more sparge water. Ive been using a B40pro lately instead since it’s easier than using the mini uni. Ive been asking the guys to make a HLT that will fit under the troll cart but not sure if they have made any plans for that.

@@MasteringHomebrew yes I can can imagine. Only 500 watts must take forvever to heat up?

@@hmmpof i was normally heating mash and sparge water together with the overnight countdown then id transfer over to the miniuni and use the element to maintain the temp.

@@hmmpof i picked it up from aliexpress. Here is the link. a.aliexpress.com/_EutUR4l

@@Brittanyblahblah_ really good! In fact i just ordered a new base and just did 200 sleek 330ml cans for the first time. It still works great for me. I was pleasantly surprised sleek cans also use 202 sized lids and they printed/molded and sent me a base for sleek cans so that its easily interchangeable once the height is set. Only cost about $20usd. I didnt mention this in the video but once you set the height for one can size all you need to do is change the base and the height is good to go. I can do various can sizes in a run just by simply changing out the base with no adjustments to the machine itself.

@@hmmpof i got them from this interior design shop called granit. This is the link to the one i cut to size. They have others too though. www.granit.com/se/forvaringstavla-rutnat-hylla-60x100cm-svart-372654/

Tusinde tak

@@hmmpof i get mine here brewshop.no/produkt/tapping-av-ol/boksing-av-ol/202-cdl-sorte-lokk-til-olbokser-320-stk?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADLv8UzDlXwY_buIKLLwFFH8GYU_1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8uvcmrHKhwMVPmCRBR1y8AS_EAQYASABEgK5G_D_BwE

@@brewman467 just left over loose yeast and hop gunk. I think i need to update this video since my process is a bit different these days. Normally after a cip i would run hot water cip to rinse it all away. This time i just sprayed it down for the rinse.

I am still pleased with it! I am actually going to do another video soon as an “update”. I also just ordered a new base from them for sleek cans. Just waiting for the base to arrive. The seller i recommended in the video is definitely not a scammer. I know how you feel and i felt the same. Its a lot of money for aliexpress but they are legit.

They are actually spunding valves! I use them as airlocks in the beginning on the lowest setting as airlocks then twist them down to build pressure at 60% attenuation

Yep. I just added the 3” T with the 34mm on the side to the kit (along with the poly tubes). Bit more efficient in my opinion. Ive saw a video about atmospheric purging not being the greatest method.

Thanks so much! Well i over carb the beer and basically equalize it at 1.1-1.2bar and there is generally a ok amount of break out that creates foam to cap on. The duofillers have this issue where the solenoids get stuck half way and only push out foam and you have to squeeze the line to pop it open all the way. I actually dont fix it when this happens and take advantage of it to control the amount of foam that goes in first. Sounds kinda silly but it works pretty well. I wish he could force it to only open halfway but for me once it starts malfunctioning i just let it.

Jag fick dem på AliExpress. mest för rengöring och prover jag använder dem

Thanks!! Yea i mounted it that way (if you’re talking about the spool) on purpose. Just to make it easier to work with. Not enough rubbing to wear down the cord/rope.

Yep it sure does. Its a great investment. Ive had mine for about 4-5 years now and only use it for cleaning and sanitation.

So far so good! Ive done around 250-300 cans only so far but im happy with it.

Works a treat!

Du finner ikke denne gjæren noe sted. Du kan kanskje bruke S-189 eller Imperial L17 i stedet

Haha its not that its un-leveled but misaligned with the cranes down slot in this video. Its been fixed now. Was only the second time using the crane so hoping to address this in the next video

Ah yeah, I see it does look a little bit uneven, but that’s just shotty camera work

@@MasteringHomebrew Rejoice !

Hi! Yea! I am actually waiting on mine. Nothing too much, mainly different connections with 3/16 John Guest for both beer and CO2. There are also 2 sets of beer lines, one set has thinner inner diameter than standard 3/16" hoses (ID 2.5mm vs 3.2mm). The thin one is meant for those who over carb. That being said i think there is another version of it coming soon (im not 100% sure how and when they plan to release it or if its all version 3s) that has some other upgrades that i cant talk about yet. Exciting times.

You installed it correctly. I installed it upside down on purpose so its better oriented for use. Technically you shouldn’t have anything rubbing on the cable or spacing bars BUT i figured since the cable is more like cloth it would not cut into the spacer bar and since the spacer bar is round and smooth that while using the winch it would not move fast enough or rub enough to cut into the cable. So far so good but you are correct that mine is technically installed incorrectly. There are some videos i watched that cover this topic but they all used metallic cables and thats where you start to get significant wear and tear that could be potentially dangerous.

@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks for the advice, it was not my intention to tell you dit something wrong, let this be clear 🙂. The orientation of the handle is a struggle with the original design and manual, I will turn it upside down also now. Cheers and thanks again mate!

Thanks so much! Appreciate the love!! 🍻

Thank you! Great to hear you’re going to give it a try! I did dump the yeast right before i dry hopped. I dont think it really matters though. I mostly did it so the hops would have more space to settle down into after cold crashing so i just made a little extra space. I have my dip tube pointed downwards so i have to dump a couple of times either way. Splitting it up makes it more efficient (i think)

@@MasteringHomebrew Thanks a lot for you Precious feedback :)

Thank you for the kind words!

Ive had this happen before. It usually happens when the CIP ball is clogged or has some grain inside where the metal meets where its supposed to rotate. Could also need some lubing up. It could also be that the pump isn’t fully primed and has an air pocket inside. So its not moving the water as fast as it could be. Those are my guesses.

@@MasteringHomebrew thanks a lot. Glad to hear that I shouldn’t need to buy anything new. We had Glühbeer in the system with a lot of Sirup and blackcurrant. Maybe that simply clogged it. I will test it once it gets a little warmer… thx!

Thanks! Yeah, it definitely needs its own pump unless the HLT is higher up above the BT pump. I’ve been using a riptide on the HLT. i’ve been begging them to make an integrated HLT into the troll cart that would fit underneath. Hopefully they make it.

Thank you!

Im using a DAJA dj6 laser engraver to take a layer of paint from the can. It works really well!

Thank you! Yes i have left this practice.

@@MasteringHomebrew thanks for answer, will update my process as well!

They’re grrreat!

det är cdl chuck. Måste komma ihåg tidszonen i Kina. Jag skulle också se till att du har kontakt för att se till att du får rätt basstorlekar

Kinda but in a much cleaner way. Im actually surprised you were able to watch this video since i unlisted it due to the TH-cam copyright muting of the audio. 🤔 I made an updated video using the filter and canning a pilsner a couple weeks ago. Here is the link. th-cam.com/video/ODK7rFqIEHU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=q9iDuEKpfYVcPvS3

Probably the Copyright silencing when the old royalty free music becomes licensed music. If you think its unwatchable ill pull it down. Edit: i pulled it down after watching it.

Thanks for the feedback. Ill keep that in mind for next time. I get some mixed reviews about this since lots of my following are non-native English speakers and i try to format the videos so you can learn / see by viewing instead of listening. Maybe i can do both.

8478NOK + 755NOK toll = 9,233NOK ($884USD) totalt jeg tok ikke pris med toll fordi det er forskjellig for alle

I have not tried it so im not too sure. Id imagine nice and low though!

Im not 100% sure but i imagine if you send them a message they could make it so it works for what you need. Seems like they build the aliexpress orders as they come in. They are very responsive.

Yea its nice foam isnt flung everywhere while seaming. Thanks for watching! 🍻

2-3 hours usually to empty a full tank and clean it

Normally im using StarSan but this one in the video is actually an off brand version called chemiSan since starsan was sold out. Basically a no rinse acid anionic foaming sanitizer. Same, same but different.