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These are suerb cameras you need new mirrors they are cheap to buy online

Thank you so much for your video it worked! I used Foma Excel stock solution bw dev. for 13 min, C41 for 4 minutes and Blix for 16 min.Temperature of both dev. was as you recommended at 105 F for one roll 120 film and slightly higher for the other. Both came out surprisingly well😊

A little late to the game , but the mirror action allows the lens to be closer to the film , an optical advantage .

I did it and it works! Did it on a Fuji c200 but I just put 3 frames afraid of losing all the roll. I will try with ecn2 film it's supposed to be more transparent.

what is the machine used in the beginning. some kind of projector but for film?

Can you use some other black and white developer? Like Rodinol or D76?

One of the best classic cameras from Pentax. I have several and they will last forever if well maintained!

I came very close to ending up with a Spotmatic but I missed the auction. I'm pretty happy with my K1000 though.

What's a good price?

You're pretty lucky. All we have here is snow and a bunch of brown and gray things sticking up out of it.

im am now trying this with kodak ektachrome 100d 7294, yes! super 8! i can’t wait to see the results! and i’ll update this comment . Edit : Just did d76 and re-exposure , i saw really nice images ! It’s now in the cs41 developer Edit: now into the blix! Edit: washing… almost there Edit (last one): wow .. the results are awesome!! so happy with it

My my why weren't you in my youtube suggestions earlier. Could have used this info years ago😂. Keep up the good work!

Welcone back! Can`t wait to make another cross process video with cheap negative color film :D

Question. After I develop a roll ektachrome in c41 chem. Will it contaminate my future c41 roll film later?

I like it! I switched to Lumix and their S9 is really really good for content creation. Can't wait to see what you create with the new camera.

Yay! I don't care what you do as long as it's from your heart. If you enjoy it we will.

#SonyCrubb !

Not sure about the full in dark thing. Ive got a kodak no.13 wratten safelight that says when used with a dimmer and bounced of a white serface (just no direct light) its safe for color. Correct me if im wrong but if i fillow the specs, i should be able to use my safelight as directed

Looking at the comments I have to wonder of any of the posters actually watched the video :-)

Will this work for 16mm, 8mm, super 8 mm film? I have a few vintage and antique home movie cameras and would like to try this with. Also, heating the bleach…do you just heat the bleach to the temp and than bleach the film?

Oh wow that worked lol, I had pretty good results with shooting HP5 at ISO 200 and then developing in rodinal 1+25 for 6 minutes for both steps, the shots I took during the day were fantastic but sadly the shots I took with my flash turned out poorly, can't wait to mount and project these when they dry

Oarsome !

Don't tempt us with the k-14.

Wondering if you can still use the same c41 chemistry on regular color negative rolls once it's touched the slide film. Feels like it would be ok but not too sure.

Film vill be out of focus. Becouse of out of suport sides

The autofocus is not fast, but it is accurate once it focuses.

First trial with a 4x5 large format Fomapan 100 shot. The bleach failed, so I ended with an extremely dense negative. I followed your instructions maybe only failing with the temperature, which was closer to 30-34º than 40º, probably. Or maybe there was some issue with the parts of the bleach, but I used 250 ml of 3% hidrogen peroxyde with 15 ml of white vinegar. The 1st and 2nd developer was as yours HC110b.

Great video of van life. But have you thought about an external recorder and lav hooked up to the camera to cut down on the road noise and isolate your voice more while driving? That blue hair. She's too young to be a blue haired old lady!!!!🤣🤣🤣

Have you any 💡 it will work with Rodinal developer?

Your door is open. Wonder where you got the CLE after being gone for a few years !!!! 😂😂😂😂

Glad you’re on the mend. Saw the build progress on Fb and the other incidents.

Yeay!

can spotmatic sp 1 use the industar lens?

Years ago I started experimenting with compounding my C-41 chemistry from bulk chems. After much study, I started with a bleach formula described in a major photo chem magazine, which used some unusual ingredients. After looking back at a couple of hundred negative, I concluded that the prints I was getting looked like shit. Then I read a follow up article which hinted that they may have had their heads up their butts on the formula. So, I re-bleached all of those negatives in a conventional C-41 bleach and reprinted, which came out fine. What did I learn? That bleach bypass looks like shit.

I tried this with modern Ektachrome. It works but produces slides that are too blue in the highlights, too red in the shadows, and overall too dark. I've tried HC-110B at 12 minutes and HC-110A at 8 minutes and got similar results. I might try again with Rodinal as first deverloper and/or ECN-2 as a second developer.

HIE update. This time I used the stereo camera. The closest thing I have to IR filters is number 25 for that one. I got no dramatic "wood' effect but I am very pleased with the outcome. Proper IR filters would have given better results, but series 5 filters aren't easy to come by in that configuration.

did you ever manage to recreate the K14 process?

i just did this with d76, it is amazing ! thank you for this !!

will this work with e6?

i jsut did this and it was a great success! i used : Kodak color plus film (shot at 50 iso) , Kodak d76 as first dev, and the cinestill cs41 2barh kit . Steps : Use d76 for 12 min 27C• , alsmost agitating the whole time . Expose to light Cs-41 developer 2 min 100 fahrenheit (i’ve used it before so i added time ) Cs41 blix for 12 min at 80 fahrenheit

Well the procedure does work with HIE. It works better if you use hydrogen peroxide with your vinegar instead of water. That was my screw up. I've had a severe cognitive decline with parkinson's. Otherwise, yes. Before you say anything. Yes I do have the instructions taped to the wall right in front of where I do my work. I'm that stupid. From a technical point of view, the images did come out they're just very dark. I tried re- bleaching but I'm not sure the results will change much.

Glad to hear that you and your vehicles are doing better!

Glad you weren't hurt worse. Sorry about the Plymouth. As far as the other stuff, please remember redline is a limit not a goal!

Thanks for the update!

Nice video. Thanks

Hey sir! I hope you're convalescing nicely. I hope life is moderating and things are getting back to normal for you. We are all awaiting your wisdom.

HEY! I shot some sprockets in a yashi 44 too. I may have watched this vid before back when I tried doing this. The results were pretty cool. my favorite thing was that the 44 I had could do double exposures real easy. Kinda wish I hadn't sold the 44. So itsy bitsy and shooting sprockets in the bigger 124G is kind of a pain. Hey if you want a quick laugh check out the short I just posted doing yashica sprocket shots. At least this time I shot verticals so it wasn't too tough lol

Tried it and worked great, HC-110 (1:15) for 6:30s, regular C-41 with extra 15s, so far they look good. Extra blix time as well. Wondering, if I was pushing slide film - have some old stuff I want to test out - how would I adjust my times? Would I develop longer on HC-110 as well as my C41?

Question, what sort of agitation would I use for the first developer? 10s constant than 4 inversions every 30 OR do I treat it like BW film, use ilford method? Thanks!

Is it possible to put an empty 35mm cassette in place of the 127 reel on the take up side? That would make the reloading process much easier.