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Here's a link to the Milwaukee voltage tester on Amazon: amzn.to/3oQRB7F

The green ground screw on our old fluorescent fixture was near the center of the fixture's metal housing. On the new light fixtures, the ground screw is on the mounting plate or mounting bracket.

I'm so glad ☺ Thank you!

I've experienced this too. I assume the battery is bad when there's no beep but wait to change it along with the filters from our subscription. Do you have a way to test the battery?

@@wildcat-diy no I don’t. Sorry. I will wait for the next set to arrive.

Thanks for sharing this! The food coloring test is a great way to check if the flapper is faulty. Another method is to mark the water level inside the tank with a pencil, turn off the water supply to the tank, and check the level again after 30 minutes. If the water level has dropped below the pencil mark, it's likely that water is leaking past the flapper and into the bowl. I like the visual aspect of the food coloring though ☺ Have you seen Fluidmaster's Flush 'n Sparkle product? I noticed it on their website. It allows for bleach use, without it being in the tank water, by passing bleach water through a tube, down the overflow pipe, and into the bowl.

You're most welcome!

That's awesome ☺I'm so glad this trick was helpful and made the install process easier! Thank you for sharing your project experience ❤

I'm so glad! Thank you for your comment ☺

Thank you for your kind words ☺

That's awesome! I'm so glad this video was helpful to you ☺

Quarter-turn valves seem to be well liked and reliable. That will be what I use for a future shut-off valve replacement project ☺

Great callout ❤ This makes all the difference!

This is a great point! Thank you ❤

Thank you for your kind words! ☺

Thank you ☺Yes, you can! I've seen a few old ferrule removal methods, such as using a small hacksaw to make a shallow cut on the ferrule and then splitting it apart by putting the tip of a flathead screwdriver into the cut and twisting. Another approach is to use two pliers, with one holding the copper pipe behind the ferrule and using the other plier to wiggle the ferrule back and forth while pulling it towards the end of the pipe. I also found a creative solution on someone's channel (video link below) where they turned an old compression shut-off valve into a puller tool. They placed the end of a large bolt inside the old valve to create space between it and the copper pipe so when the nut was tightened onto the valve threads, the ferrule was pulled towards the end of the pipe. They repeated the process, keeping the extra space between the copper pipe and valve by placing a washer and nut behind the screw head, until the old compression ring could be easily removed with pliers from the end of the pipe. Video Link: th-cam.com/video/COYnuj7sIvo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=heSD-GpqjdJ4mO0z

Hahahahahahahhaahhahahahaha

Thank you ☺

That's awesome! I'm so glad to hear that. Thank you for your comment ☺

☺ We seem to have a knack for being at the right place at the right time to find stray cats.

Excellent point! Thanks for mentioning this. Deburring tools and tube cleaning brushes help make the pipe cleaning process quicker and safer. Next time I'm working with copper pipe, I'll include them in the process!

☺ I'm so glad to hear that!

You don't need a ladder or a hammer for this project. Where did you see or read about them being needed? Were you perhaps referring to another video?

@@wildcat-diy Very funny. And, I needed a laugh today. Thanks, very much. ;)

Thank you ☺ I try to avoid touching bulbs with my bare hands since the oils from our skin can create hot spots on the bulb, potentially shortening its lifespan. Granted, LED bulbs like the ones used for this fixture aren't as easily affected compared to incandescent or halogen bulbs, but I think it's a good habit to have when working with light bulbs in general.

This is like a 30min job at most. If you have all of your parts within arm's reach, and turned off the water main, this is pretty straightforward. But I think the video is excellent!

That was exactly my question!!! seems like a 10 minute job!

I THOUGHT it was going to be a 10 minute job... until I realized that the tool which removes the old compression fitting didn't fit behind my toilet. So instead I had to use a couple sets of pliers and it took over an hour just to take it off. Millimeter by millimeter... 😭 That fitting was probably about 30 years old.

Wow, kudos for sticking with it for so long to see it through! The compression sleeve I removed had been on for about as long (29 years) and removal was not easy or quick. What took additional time was waiting for all of the water to drain since this shut-off valve is located at the lowest level of our home. Sometimes, there's an outside spigot at a lower level but this wasn't so in our case. I hope most who tackle this project have an easier and quicker time! Regarding the limited space you had to work with, and for others in similar circumstances, I noticed this 3.7" ferrule puller on Amazon which seems to work well for ½" copper pipe: amzn.to/490vrS9

I wouldn't be surprised if they typically last longer since there's less movement (and less wear over time) to open and close the valve. Next time I need to replace a toilet shut-off valve, I'll grab a quarter-turn valve for the project. Thank you for the suggestion!

That's wonderful! I'm so glad you found this video helpful ☺ Thank you for your kind words. You made my day!

😊

Thank you ☺ It may be a matter of preference but I noticed that some popular battery companies recommend removing batteries from a device when it is not expected to be in use for extended periods of time, to prevent potential issues like battery leakage. This will also preserve battery life.

The small screwdriver I used has a diameter of 1/8" or roughly 3mm so I believe this is a Phillips #1.

If you don't have a screwdriver small enough, see if you have one in a glasses repair kit like they sell in grocery/drug stores. Also, check to see if you have one for a sewing machine--they are usually quite tiny.

You must be from England. That's what it is called there, but not in the US.

Why would you use thread sealant on a compression fitting, when the threads have no part in the seal on this type of fitting?

I've come across a few threads on Reddit and Amazon reviews where people mention this problem (no water flow) due to the pre-filter (first filter sump) being just a little shorter than the others, meaning there's not a good connection at the top of the filter to allow water to pass through and on to the other sumps. The workaround that's been mentioned is placing cut straws or cut and coiled spare Aquasana hose in the bottom of the pre-filter sump, placing the filter on top and then securing the lid. If you haven't already, you may want to call Aquasana customer support. They may provide replacement filters. For what it's worth, I've not personally encountered this issue and have had three AQ-5300 over 9 years. I've always purchased replacement filters directly through Aquasana. I wish you the best of luck in resolving this issue!

Wow, THANK YOU for all this info. I'm glad I read all these comments before replacing my filters, because this same issue happened to me: no water coming out. I added a piece of the old filter's plastic net that holds the fabric in place (trying to mimic the piece of straw that you mentioned) and it worked like a charm 😊😊😊 Thank you, thank you. You made this project so easy with your instructions!

@@lilianazmj You're most welcome! I'm glad that resolved the issue. Using the filter net in the bottom of the sump was a clever idea! Thank you for mentioning this ♥

I'm so glad ☺ Thank you for your kind feedback!

My pleasure. I'm so glad you found this video helpful!

I'm so glad you found this video helpful. ☺

Great question! If the valve is soldered on, you will have to cut it off with a pipe cutter in order to put a new valve on. You can install the same or a different type of shut-off valve (solder-type, compression-type or push-to-connect). You may find this video by seejanedrill helpful, which shows how to cut a copper pipe to remove a soldered-on valve (and other great info): th-cam.com/video/HeEORnczD3s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LUyd1ELO9uJr3jRS

The OP said you'll have to cut it off but you can also get a torch and heat the old solder and remove the valve that way

Have you tried using something with a rubber/grippy surface to help slide the cover down like a rubber jar opener or work gloves with grippy material on the finger tips?

@@wildcat-diy yeah. I think the previous owners of the house sealed it with something

I'm having the same problem. The previous owner never had to change the battery. I can't find a manual online for instructions.

Gently pry up the sides with your fingernail or a thin blade, being very careful not to break the cover. The prying may loosen the cover so it can slide off normally.

Thank you for your kind words ❤ The compression sleeve puller tool is a life saver!

Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it! For the larger valve nut on the copper water line and with the valve handle facing you, I turned the nut from left to right (clockwise) to loosen it. For the smaller nut on the toilet water supply line, I turned it counter-clockwise to loosen it. I removed the nuts from the new valve to figure out which way to turn the old valve nuts to loosen and remove them. Hope this helps!

@@wildcat-diy I managed to get the old unit off. I bought the sleeve puller but the directions that came with it were pretty useless. I tried to follow what you did but I can't get any movement of the compression sleeve. The handle that you turn is hitting the arms of the tool where they stick out backwards and won't turn any further. Some information on how to set up the tool would be very helpful. Have spent several hours removing, adjusting and re-installing the tool in an attempt to get it to do anything.

@golden.lights.twinkle2329 Glad you got the old valve off! It took me numerous turns to remove the tight compression sleeve. I didn't find the tool's arms to be useful beyond initial placement and I've seen others tape them together to keep them out of the way while turning the handle. Superior Tool has a quick video on how to use this same tool that you may find helpful: th-cam.com/video/7KDe8ACKjwc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=daX6a9tS83btSykN

Thank you and Wow, very nice! Congrats on the new toilet!

You're most welcome!

You're most welcome!

Thank you!

🎉 I had the same reaction when I learned this week that Hunter used to make cast iron ceiling fans (Hunter Originals) that require oil.

I'm so happy to hear that! Thank you for the feedback!

I'm so glad!

Yes, that's exactly right! The unit beeps to indicate a filter change is needed, which for this system, is either after 6 months of usage or once 600 gallons of water have been filtered.

What type of battery does it use ?@@wildcat-diy

@@t0107lbThis unit, the Claryum 3-Stage Filter system (AQ-5300), takes one CR2450 3V battery.

@@wildcat-diymine never beeped at all, and since we recently moved into this home I had no clue as to when to change filters. Yesterday the front cartridge began dripping water sometime during night. When we caught it this morning water had already seeped under my wood floor and carpeting. These water filters should never leak. Maybe stop working but not leak. What if homeowner is away for couple weeks? There goes flooring in whole house.

@@carolyncook3611 That's terrible!! I'm so sorry and I wish you the best ❤ If you connect with Aquasana, I hope their customer support can offer some assistance. Thank you for sharing your experience so others can be aware of potential issues like this. Could you tell where the leak was coming from on that first filter cartridge? From what I've seen, a leak can be caused by worn or damaged O-rings on the sump top, the sump body and top being either too loose or too tight, or the sump being cracked.

Thank you!!