วีดีโอ

In my case the oil on the switch was more of a spill than a leak per se. The oil porthole is right beside that lockout switch, so dribs and drabs of oil can easily spill if not careful and that's what happened to me. As for the overall design, there's certainly compromises at this low price point, but given what this saw has done for me i'm super pleased with it.

No, but admittedly I've not been actively looking either. I'm sure there's a few more out there somewhere, but i have the additional hurdle of getting things shipped to canada where i'm located.

If the male julet connector itself is damaged rather than the throttle, I think it amounts to the equivalent repair as described in the video, it's just that you aren't having to discard the throttle. The big issue would be the amount of slack available to you, as that will be reduced by cutting off the damaged julet, and you might not be left with enough slack to make the re-connection. If that were the case, then you might need a whole new 3rd-party throttle assembly, as shown in the video, just to get a longer cable to work with. Bottom line, you really have to love your jetson to do these kind of repairs!

Duly noted. I can say it's not really my idea, lotta videos in this genre do have the music...

I haven't, but I intend to keep it going now as long as i can.

A warm-ish beer at the end of a long day outdoors is better than an ice-cool beer at the end of another Friday at work.

Awesome, glad you liked it!

It's true the quality is not great, it's a high-maintenance kind of product. I only bought mine because it was a folding-style bike which is not otherwise common.

For this repair I didn't have to run the wiring back to the hubmotor.

Think your AI got the the wrong video

Glad you liked it! Algonquin is a great destination, with the proviso that it can get warm temps and rain at times. So snow conditions are usually somewhat mixed.

I'm looking at google translate here so not entirely sure, but if you have a flashing light and no response to the throttle, it could be the motor controller needs to be reset. Once when this happened to my bike, I turned off the battery and then disconnected it and the throttle from the motor controller. When I put them back, the flashing light was gone and throttle worked.

Дякую щиро, зпробую.

When I entered my Canadian address into their shipping form it returned an error code, that's all I know.

Yes, lights and cruise do work on the modified throttle.

@jb1934 thank you so much bro

awesome, glad you're back on the road!

It's true I don't have any experience with the asian e-commerce sites. It never occurred to me to try looking there, but now that you mention it I can well understand there must be a ton of stuff on those web platforms as compared to the usual American ones. Thanks for the tip will keep it in mind.

Hey glad you liked it, I'll be back to make part 2 of this video in the fall, the parts I missed because of the insects.

I hadn't originally thought to check that as I don't ride at night. But I was just at the bike, intending to trouble-shoot the dreaded blinking-light-and-won't-run problem that had cropped up for me just last Tuesday after 18 months of ownership. Before getting into the trouble-shooting, I thought I would get started by checking on your question. And, I found out that the green button does operate the lights. That wasn't going to be a deal-breaker for me either way, but cool that it works. More intriguingly, I found that after I had swapped the throttles (ie I have the modified throttle as my backup, it's not generally on the bike) the dreaded blinking light problem had cleared. There's a lot of reports about this problem out there and not a lot of clear answers. I now know that some combination of breaking the throttle circuit along with power cycling both the battery and the handlebar on/off switch (though never powering on with the throttle circuit broken) clears at least one aspect of the dreaded blinking light problem. And it might be equally effective just to open the bike and pull the battery for a few minutes.

Hey that's great, glad it worked out.

OK there's two situations which the video slightly confuses. In this video, I am opening up a working throttle with tab in place, to show what's inside. If the tab on your throttle is currently broken and you are opening it up to try to fix it, then the tab won't be visible, it'll be broken off and somewhere else in the interior of the assembly. In this latter case, you will be free to pry away because you can't further damage the tab. I didn't make that entirely clear in this video, could have described it better. If the tab on your throttle is believed to be intact, and you are opening it up for some other reason, but you can't see the tab, then proceed carefully. The point is not to accidentally exert force with the screwdriver against the tab so it's ok if you can't see it, as long as you're not applying an 'inwards' pressure on the handle of the screwdriver. Just have to be cautious, use a flat-head screwdriver that is pretty wide, and first try to use the end of it to feel for the position of the tab. That way you can make sure you aren't pressing hard against the tab when you start to pry the handle off. Then also be sure to apply the prying/twisting action of the screwdriver at right angles, again, to avoid an inwards pressure on the screwdriver handle that would apply a force on and gouge into the tab. Either way, getting the handle off is a bit of an act of faith, I thought for sure I was going to break something the first time I tried it, there was that much resistance. It's definitely not made for easy servicing. The ethos in this product design seems to be, 'disposable'.

Hey thanks for the props! it was my first video lol so it wasn't going to be a masterpiece. But I was at least aiming higher than boring. And a year later, I still haven't heard of anyone else rucking 50 lbs of tools on a jetson.

Haha, I wish it would be true!

Btw i dont have qick disconnect so much harder doing anything

The cable was cut? or something in the switch itself is physically damaged? If it's the cable, you just need 1/4" of slack, and you can re-solder the conductors with a heat gun and solder-seal type connectors. If there's something damaged in the switch assembly, I haven't had mine open to see what's in there. I wouldn't think the controller is a problem, unless you are meaning that in fact you already have fixed the cable but now it still doesn't work. If that's the case, you'll have to pull the controller and wiring harness and start testing voltages. In the Haze at least it's relatively easy to pull out the controller and wiring to work on it. I never did any kind of trouble-shooting like that, but I think there are videos on it. But also keep in mind, with every passing year more and more bike shops will be developing their own experience fixing e-bikes, it gets more and more practical just to take it and get it fixed by someone else. Sorry can't add much else.

It's not easy , takes a surprising amount of force. The first time I tried it, it seemed like I was going to break something, before it eventually popped open. It was clearly designed for rapid assembly, but not for service/disassembly.

Sorry to hear it, if you'd hung on for just another 18 seconds you'd be good. But I will readily acknowledge that with a near-infinite amount of content on youtube, no one should watch anything that just doesn't click.

update: Ian Anderson belatedly called and said I couldn't use that song at 1 min 47 seconds after all. Originally he hadn't had a problem with it, no idea why he changed his mind. Possibly the reverse of your concern: my talking was messing with his song. So I found out youtube has this feature to mute out the offending song and leave the rest of the audio intact. I haven't checked to see how well it worked, but knowing youtube I can imagine it's done rather well. Meanwhile Ritchie Blackmore is still ok with smoke on the water, and that's the one that matters.

Hey that's great hope you get on the road soon!

The e-bike segment of the bike industry is still growing rapidly and maturing. there will be a better product in this same category in just a few short years.

From what I've previously seen in various online comments and forums on jetson, the blinking headlight thing could mean the throttle is defective or damaged in some way. Alternatively, I've also read that it could also be something that can be 'reset' or otherwise resolved using the jetson smart phone app somehow. But I haven't personally had the blinking light or tried the app myself, so I'm afraid I can't offer a solid answer.

Check that, I just had the blinking thing and no power from throttle. I cleared it without realizing it, after I temporarily put my modified throttle on the bike (for a separate unrelated reason), then took it off again and put the original back on. I think what ultimately may be happening is that just breaking the battery circuit makes some kind of 'reset/reboot' in the controller. In other words, simply opening the bike and pulling the battery for a few minutes might do the same thing.

These plasticky throttles seem to be a surprisingly weak link in the jetson bikes, and probably most of the mass market e-bikes. I think with time 3rd party suppliers of throttles will emerge, offering items for a few dollars more that won't break because they are made of aluminum or steel. But in the meantime customers are being left in the lurch.

Portigues

I'm going on 4 yrs with my Bolt replaced both tires and tubes already,pedals,seat,break pads and finally the throttle has broken which I have disabled for now (still rides in pedal assist).For what the cost of a refurbished Bolt is you could have a veritable bank of spare parts and consumables unfortunately they're sold out for now and will be installing in an aftermarket throttle in the meantime,it's an easy fix.

If you look at 04:28 in my other video th-cam.com/video/mHA8J3eUsnc/w-d-xo.html you will see this.

A flimsy plastic part on the inside of the throttle snapped off, same thing that's happened to a lot of other e-bike owners. It's an inherently bad design, prone to breakage.

Thanks for the tip! I had tested some of those solder-seal connectors on a practice cable, but found them surprisingly futzy to deal with at the 24 gauge size.

I have to admit, this video has initially gone over like a lead zeppelin. To my credit though, none of the 'unboxing influencers' has yet addressed the back emf. And I'm also tolerably certain no one in the intended audience has yet seen it.

It's my backup. When the throttle in this video broke for the second time, I used it to continue the ride. I'm just not sure how durable my soldering job is against accidental bending of the cable from routine use , parking and locking up etc, so for now I prefer to use the stock (repaired) throttle with intact cable as the main one. But if this second repair breaks for a 3rd time, then I'll be preparing a second cable-hacked throttle. It will become the main one, as I've got the solder seal thingies on hand now, my soldering technique will be better, and so the cable will be more robust.

@@jb1934 I worry about my solder joints too since I’m not the best at soldering, so I use solder tubes instead to ensure a good connection and a smaller possibility of being undone overtime. I would link the kit I bought from Amazon but I can understand clicking links from a random person can come off as weird.

Glad you liked it, hope your bike is back on the road soon!

@@jb1934 IT WORKED THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO!! AND I TOOK A FAT CHANCE BY FOLLOWING YOUR PINOUT LAYOUT AND IT WORKED! THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!!!!!

There is a tiny set screw for 2mm allen key on throttle that holds it on the handlebar. May need to loosen off the brake lever clamping bolt first though with a larger allen key, and rotate it out of the way, to see the set screw. Then there's a flat cover plate fastened with three small machine screws to remove, to see the inside of the throttle assembly. Then you have access to pry on the rotating handle against the fixed part of the throttle body with a flathead screwdriver, and it will pop off the spindle. That latter will take a bit of prying force to overcome the plastic tabs holding it down, needs to be done carefully.

Thanks for the feedback and hope you get your Bolt back on the road soon!

If you mean as shipped from Amazon, then yes. If you mean with the quick disconnnect modification I made, then probably not... because I don't think the Bolt Pro comes with a julet quick disconnect near the handlebar like the Haze does. To be more specific in the former case, the long cable and the inline molex connector that it comes with are intended to be connected inside the central housing containing the motor controller for the Bolt Pro. The effort required from the user is: a) to pull the cable from your old/original throttle, and then run the long cable of the new throttle from the handlebar area down through the various interior conduits in the frame, and into the central housing. b) to verify that the various wires and pinout on the molex connector of the new throttle are correct. Step a) is straightforward, while for step b) I expect there could be a chance of wiring differences which must be corrected by the user before the throttle will work.

Glad to hear it, I think the Haze is definitely worth the extra cost over the Bolt Pro but both are obviously great bikes. However, as long as you have a working original throttle, it's probably easiest just to stick with that even if you don't like the LCD so much. As for the battery, I'm getting close to 30 km range out of mine by treating it gently on the uphills, so I'm pretty happy with it and no plans to upgrade or bluetooth.

@@jb1934 Nice, and thanks for the reply too.