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Thank you!

Thank you, I just try to explain it the way I'd want to hear it explained to me!

That I 100% believe… I’m glad you didn’t have to cut yours.. that’s just one more time consuming step. Now I’m curious if it’s a 66 radiator support?… I’m gonna have to check my friends 66 fb next time I get a chance. Fun learning a different things they did over the years.

Yup, I put it down in some comments if I recall, but you nailed it!

I am sure I could do it in a weekend if I hade all the parts. It’s not a hard installation… it’s more tedious… and I filmed it…that part took the longest. The kit was based on a 68, so that will definitely speed it up.. if you seen the modifications I had to make to my radiator support of the 67… it’s that stuff that takes the most time… but zero issues…. 8 hours … best guess? Let me know how long . I eventually will put the same set up in my 68. Going to try to not film that one. I just get it done.

Thank you sir!

As far as I understand, cap walk is usually kills a bottom end. Aside from an oil delivery issue. Girdles are supposed to lock things in and prevent the caps from being about to wrist. A two bolt main would have been ideal. But I definitely think it will help… cheap insurance for sure… as far as a studs being better… I don’t see how? I recognize studs are generally better than bolts and offer some advantages when servicing and removing… generally you wouldn’t break on in the block… I don’t personally see how they would have more holding power? But I believe it was a studded girdle If I recall 💪.

I got it from Facebook, but it’s a CJ pony part tank.

Thank you!

Glad I could help

Are you talking about the drain tube? If so yes it came with it.

It’s not technically designed to sit on the ground, but I’m sure it would be fine. Maybe put some feet or something. But the lip they give you to hang it on the toolbox, I’m sure would hang on any toolbox brand. Might require just a speck of grinding if you needed to shorten it for your specific situation. Hope this what you were asking.

I got it for 300 with coupon. Definitely worth it to me at that price, really fit a lot of the things I could not but in the tool box.

lol, definitely wish I had a bigger garage

I definitely need to step up my game on that part, however, that tank and sender were a market place special 🤷‍♂️ lol

Thanks! This is the next step on my 68 vert that I’ve let sit too long. Gas was nasty bad. I have installed a fuel pump. Carb has been sent off to a rebuild guru. I need to replace the nasty tank before I install the overhauled carb. Looks simple enough even I might be able to do it. Cheers!

Thank you!!! This is a the one I used. www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66784 Just FYI, it doesn’t come with the test springs.

I actually just got the whole series uploaded. I would say it’s more of a PITA, than complicated. Definitely doable.

🙏 thank you

It’s came with my Torq Storm supercharger. Clears my raised hood my about 5/8.

Thanks, I always kinda wondered about that. I just curse it around the block here and there, still some body work to do, but the 7 seams to be working out good so far!

Thanks! I need to finished editing the rest, I coach wrestling and it kills what little free time I though I had lol

Thank you, and yes… I do have a thought. I hope it’s not this, but I ended up having to do my BECM as well. I think is called the Battery Energy Control module; It wasn’t cheep. But first rescan the code, mine changed… I know my shifter was going out too. Look up the BECM on google, you will find a bit of information. The crap part, is I think it’s much more of a dealer repair. Not really a DIY job. At least for most of us.

I'm probably too late, but it's relatively easy to diagnose the two problems. The cheap one which requires only replacing a micro switch and a small cable harness (shifter assembly replacement not required) gives the "shift to park" message when the shifter is in park and you attempt to shut the car off. The battery control module issue occurs when the shifter is in any position other than park and you and the "shift to park" message comes up. The micro switch issue is covered by bulletin no. 19-NA-206, May 2021 The BECM issue is covered by bulletin no. 18-NA-261, Mar 2022

Awesome, thank you!

The 72inch series 3 is on sale right now $400 off if you're a member! I have a series 2 56inch!

Here is the link to the one I used. Flashpower 14'' Billet Troika... www.amazon.com/dp/B079RZF7JB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Can you tell where you bought or what is the brand of the steering column covers. I'm having hard time finding those rings maybe I'm searching for the wrong name. Thanks again.

I apologize the word was those.

I thought the same thing, those are, however, the gaskets AFR recommends for those heads. I don’t even get mad when things don’t fit anymore, just gotta make em work 🤣

I’m in CA, we have a location shop RPM machine. They are fairly popular around here. Also fair priced.

I’ll keep that in mind on the 302s, I know i have heard that a few times, but never tried . For all the reasons I love my small in/lbs torq wrench doing my 10-22lbs bolts, what you say completely makes sense, I have a 1/2 long digital, but I’m not sure I ever 100% trusted its accuracy for some reason so I used that one. Thank you for the pointers, I love learning and getting better, much appreciated. Now follow up question. Is there a rule of tumb for torquing with an extension? Sometimes it’s just necessary. Although frankly on this job I think I just used it for the added clearance.

Whenever I have torqued cylinder heads or main caps etc, I always use a 1/2" torque wrench with as little extension and as short of socket as possible. For instance if I have an engine on the stand and I am doing Main bolts / studs, you can usually get away without any extension and a short socket or perhaps a deep socket if needed. For rod bolts no extension and a short socket works most of the time but sometimes a 3" 1/2" drive extension is needed. For head bolts or studs, sometimes no extension, sometimes a 3" extension, and sometimes a deep socket. It just depends on what is needed to get enough room to torque the fastener properly. I try to stay away from short / small movements with a torque wrench if at all possible. Having said that, when you are working within the confines of an engine in the vehicle, sometimes you have to do whatever you need to get the job done. Does the way I do thing workout any better than the next guy or torque the bolts any better? I don't know, it has worked out for me and that is just the way I was taught and continue to do things. I just finished all 5 videos and like your build. I am going to have my 19yo son watch this since he and I are going to do pretty much the same long block 408 stroker, cylinder heads, and rockers for his 1992 F-150 4x4.

@@AwesomeBuford That’s awesome! Good luck on the build!

@@AwesomeBuford Totally agree, except the part about the rod bolts. Since a torque wrench is only accurate typically beginning at 20% of full scale, the torque on a 302 is too low to be accurate on a 1/2" torque wrench. On a 351W it's going to depend on what the top of the scale is, but you're right in the middle of the range for most 3/8 torque wrenches so you really can't go wrong with that.

I used Rogue Bolt on eBay, this was the item number I used, I had to email him on the side for these additional. I need (2) 1 3/4, and (1) 3 3/4. The water pump bolts were not quite long enough for the casting of the one I had.

I don’t think the opening is big enough. I’ve done one stock steering column and one aftermarket. Both times it seemed pulling one wire at a time was just way quicker than trying to get them all at once. But if you can get it through without working too hard, go for it.

This cam was custom ground by Cam Motion, this is my first time “caming” a motor. I did my homework, took notes, watched lots of TH-cam and made sure I was “TH-cam Certified” prior to calling them. Then I let them help me figure out what I actually wanted. I was close lol. I wanted a rowdy hot street cam. I think the answer you are looking for is because I have pretty good duration, you need the additional LSA to achieve the same overlap. I know for me until called them, I didn’t really understand overlap. I will say, I am driving the car around the bock a bit now and I love the motor characteristics so far. Hope that was what you were asking more less?

@@ironmustang look up a guy cattledog garage “cam selection using LSA” and david visard videos, listen to what they have to say on cam selection. A but late for you but these engines like tighter lsa’s

Those are great videos, I used Davids formula when I was picking parts, got 104… AFR recommended I use a 110. But remember… by car does have a supercharger. So that’s a factor I’m not smart enough to debate the intricacy’s of and … I told them I valued a chop over total power (to an extent)… then I put my trust in a company that specializes in building cams and settled on a 114. I remember rebating it with him for a bit and he explained why, but I don’t remember the complexity of his reasoning… but again, I’m liking it. This blower adds a bit of tuning complexity… I reasonably understand NA… bowers and big cams change the rules a bit. But thank you for your input. I love learning, and I’m loving the build process.

Renegade 195s

Did you scan it for error codes. Mine had been intermittently doing this for some time. It corrected the issue and then several months later it started doing it again. But I was also getting an error code for the BECM this time. I had to take it in and have the dealership replace that part. One, they are the only people who could get it, and two, I don’t feel comfortable working on a EV battery system. But after that was corrected it’s been fine ever since. I think when your BECM goes out, it’s a bit of a false code for the shift to part issue.

@@ironmustang do u know how much u ended up paying at the dealer

@@Man_One I wanna say I was able to work them down to 1800… that BECM is going bad on lots of them now.

Hard to deny that being sound advice, shot this video some time ago, but I do think you will need power at certain times to move the shifter. If I recall.

@@ironmustang All good 👍 i subscribed to your channel!

I like that idea, I’d rather be over than under on break in. Not like I’m really probably going to experience and windage issues at that point anyway. Then as I get more aggressive with the car I can adjust it as needed. Great advice!

Pour in the amount the pan tells you to. Don't even look at the dipstick. Just know.

@@buysncharge It’s all custom, the dipstick doesn’t even have marks yet, that was semi the point of the question, trying to figure out where to put it 🤣.

@@ironmustang delete it. Use the standard filter. It's Milodon and says 8 qt. That's exactly the amount. Dip sticks are relics.