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Thank you. I don't have the video out yet, but I was doing a medium speed, high bank turn at 1/3rd throttle; simulating the "Deadman's Curve", turning base to final landing approach, and pulled the elevator all the way back to force a wing drop tip stall. No stall, just flipped back on itself. Added power and flew away. Unbelievable.

He is using the Freewing 8S 1350 90mm EDF unit set up with a 120 AMP ESC and the 70mm thrust vector units from a salvaged Freewing SU-35. Apparently Banana Hobby has similar 70mm thrust vector units which can be used. The original F-15 end nozzles to complete. Enjoy! 😃

Thank you. Nothing yet on the nozzles. My F-22 80mm just arrived. 😃

Thank you. Tamiya Gunship Gray spray paint. Simple masking off the original light gray outer edges of the wings, tail and vertical. Sprayed and re-applied decal set from MotionRC.

Thank you. Tamiya Gunship Gray spray paint for the top surfaces.

Thank you. I've heard the modified nozzles help with additional thrust. I do not have a 3D printer.. yet. The nose RunCam Thumb camera on a very simple mount. I usually buy a 2nd nose cone with the models I plan to record and glue a small diameter carbon fiber tube. I then slide the camera mount into the tube. Nothing fancy. I just happen to like that particular camera angle.

@ brilliant! Thanks! Gotta try that one day. Hopefully someone can print you some tubes up soon!

Yes I am still using the cable ties as it originally came. I was going to replace with the small diameter fuel tubing but never did simply because I got distracted by other projects.

RumCam Thumb. Nice and light to mount on the nose since it requires external power source. Insta360 was just too pricey for me. I just run a power lead from the camera to a separate external BEC and plug that into the balance plug of the lipo.

I know right. Got to get the buffer on better. 🙂

Practicing Brian's Argonaut show. 😃

😃👍

I know, right. I can never seem to get a good balance. But, all for fun anyway. 😀

I know right. The 5 blade has a distinctive sound to it, which is cool. I was less concerned with the cost as I was about availability and about being a 6 piece blade / hub assembly. If you've ever seen a vid where a blade gets loose and the whole thing goes off balance before the pilot can throttle off, YEESH. The whole motor departs and takes the front end with it. I prefer the 5 blade for looks and sound, but use the 4 blade because it's one piece. Maintenance the 5 blade periodically and it should be fine. As far as overall performance, it is much quieter, yet still pulls hard. Unlimited vertical and power use consistent with the 5 blade.

I used a RunCam Thumb mounted on a homemade saddle mount rubber banded to the rear fuselage. Then I ran the wires to the battery bay under the canopy. It did not work very well, given all the vibration, but I thought it was okay until I figured out something better. Plug-N-Fly (PNF) or Plenty Nuf Fun 😃

I know right. Tough to beat the flight performance and flight times on just 4000 mAh. 😃

@@2wdUnknown tried a 5k today. I didn’t like it. Too nose heavy. Those wires gotta go one day.

Does anyone notice how bad those rudders act when you use it, especially on turns🤦🏽‍♂️ im not liking it

@@5.2jay sorry don’t understand what do you mean when you say “bad”?

@@5.2jay I use RUDD / AIL / ELEV to make my turns. A habit I picked up from having to use TAILROTOR on helis. I have my RUDD throws set at 130% so mine are quite sensitive, but it's how I prefer it.

I am studying the Brian Sanders Argonaut Sea Fury airshow routine to one day re-create it. 😀

Thank you. The drop tanks and ordinance is from the Freewing Eurofighter Typhoon. The propeller modification is from the Eflite Draco; propeller, spinner and prop adaptor.

@@2wdUnknown nicely done man.. looks awesome

Thank you! 😀

Thank you. Hope all continues to be well. 😀

The orange and grey camo are decals you may order from Flite Test. If you buy a combo kit, you get the model, motors and ESC's. The radio and receiver are separate.

I use the SMC 5300 and 5900 mAh lihv batts. The 1st batt is in the forward battery bay. The 2nd is in the rear most battery bay.

@@2wdUnknowndoing the same here for battery placement

I took a salvaged Freewing thrust vector unit from their SU-35 70mm Twin EDF.

Thank you. I use a RunCam Thumb. It is very light but needs an external battery source. I built a light weight pedestal mount on a separate nose cone and run the power wires into the battery compartment. I have a separate UBEC and plug it into the balance plug of the main battery to power the camera. The nose gear connecting pin is 3.1 diameter but I haven't found the same size from Freewing. My thought is to somehow make a regular one fit from another nose gear retract. Still working on that one.

I just used a 3 wire Y cable for the RUDD / TV YAW / nose STEERING. A 3 wire Y Cable for both ELEV servos and the PITCH TV. No EXPO. Kept it simple and have it on all the time.

@@2wdUnknown thanks for your response! This is a really cool mod I can’t wait to play with.

The entire installation does add some weight to cause the center of gravity (C/G) to shift back, but I was able to easily compensate by moving the lipo battery forward to get the C/G back into the prescribed range.

Yes. It was actually pretty simple.

I didn't do one at the time because I wasn't sure it would work. Now that it does, let me see about putting something together. It is actually pretty simple.

Just uploaded short "How to" vid. Hope it helps.

Thank you. Camera is RunCam Thumb.

Pull straight up into the vertical then full rudder in either direction. With 50% setting on the differential and the C/G set per the manual, the model does a vertical pin wheel. Pretty awesome stuff.

Thank you 👌