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@ralphrobinson1931 we would have to walk that through over the phone bud. Too much texting and I don't always get these youtube notifications when someone comments. Want to share your number?

@garyakashadow596 glad I could help brother. I originally made these videos for my technicians when I was foreman for a shop. I'm now a owner of a rv repair business and don't have the time anymore. But your comment made my day! Best wishes to you. ♥️

@nicholasgriffin6631 Well, I'm glad my comment was able to brighten your day. Lord knows that info saved me a ton of fretting and worrying! 😁❤️

@bruceda3rd sir if you ever need a hand, reach me at Space City RV Repair in Houston Texas (Pearland really). Then we can share pictures and talk in real time. I'm shut down until mid November right now because we're moving. But I always try to help. ♥️

It was just a joke, lol.

You're most welcome.

Chubbs, Unfortunately I got promoted and haven't had the time. Are you having issues with yours? I can walk through it with you if needed. 💪

@@nicholasgriffin6631 some quick advice would be awesome!! Basically where I’m at. Furnace worked at purchase. Eventually stopped working completely, didn’t kick on at all. I’ve isolated that the furnace is GOOD hooked to battery and fan kicked on and stuff but I didn’t leave it ,on long enough to see/hear spark. What I also know is the wires from the thermostat are NOT the same ones that I see in the furnace space. Did continuity test and nothing, so they must go elsewhere and something else going to the tstat wires for the furnace. The acc unit works 100%. The furnace side board is new so hopefully* eliminates that. Going to attempt a new thermostat today.

East on Forty, I'm guessing that when it runs for 30 seconds that it also does not try to lite. My first thought would be a faulty sail switch. They're not too expensive, so try that. Other than that, you could have an air flow restriction, at which point I would take apart the fan cages and look for insect nests, etc. Next step would be checking inside the burn chamber as well for insect nests etc. Also make sure the exhaust tube is fully and properly installed. Keep me posted, and I hope all goes well for you.

I sent 12v straight to the motor and it runs fine. Now I’m thinking it’s the control board.

@bestgreenhomestead2676 if it were myself and the main concern was to rid of the squealing, I would replace the blower motor. You save in time, what it costs you in parts. If I'm not understanding your question, please ask in more detail. I'm glad to help.

@scottsheffield2594 , I am not sure which fittings exactly you are talking about, but here is what I think you are talking about. The gas fitting that goes into the top of the gas valve solenoid and then a tube that has the orifice on the end, that tube that goes into the gas valve and you then tighten the fitting into the gas valve solenoid - the tube is flared and inside the gas valve solenoid it's an inverted flare so no pipe dough or Teflon needed. You should notice that it didn't have any sealant on it to begin with. Also, the main lp supply from your camper to the furnace should be flared. Flared fittings work through compression and don't need Teflon tape or pipe dough. However, only someone licensed or certified should work on LP appliances. These videos are for technicians. We always perform manometer (drop pressure tests) to verify that we tightened the fittings fully and do not have any LP leak from a poor connection. Be safe bud, and reach out anytime. I hope my response was helpful to you.

Also Scott, seems like you did a good job in your diagnosis and learning. I hope all is working well for you now.

@@nicholasgriffin6631 thank you that is exactly the fitting that I’m talking about. You are correct there was no Teflon or anything on the threads. I have a mannow meter and Leak detector and when I get it all back together Im going to check for leaks. I repair medical equipment for a living so I work on a lot of things and Im learning how to repair my camper. Your video helped a lot you gave great explanation of everything. I will be checking subscribing and checking out your other videos. Thanks again for answering my questions

@scottsheffield2594 I'm alot more busy these days. I have my own company now and alot of people to assist. However, I care very deeply, so if you ever need help, just reach out. I don't know everything, but I do know alot and am willing to help others always. 💯

@@nicholasgriffin6631 thanks for the help. I have heat now.

@steveleston1848 1) Yes, the blower will come on even if you're out of propane. However after 3 attempts to lite unsuccessfully, the furnace will go into lockout. Just cycle the furnace on and off from the t-stat if it goes into lockout. 2) Yes, you should hear the ignitor click even without propane. 3) No. The screens are great for keeping most insects and pests out. However I have seen many orifices get clogged with gnats and other small bugs.

Jack, what type of thermostat operates your furnace? Does the thermostat operate just the furnace, or the air conditioner as well? If you have a test light or voltmeter, check the 2 blue wires that are coming from your furnace. One should have power and the other will not. Take the blue wire coming from your furnace that does NOT have power, and connect that one to the blue wire coming from the wall. That should be it. Let me know how it goes.

Thank U very much. It solved the problem other techs couldnt figure out

Jack, no sir. If the sail switch is stuck open then the furnace will not proceed to try and lite. The furnace will make 3 attempts to lite before shutting down. If you're not staying lit, time to pull and inspect the burner tube, ignitor tip, gas valve orifice. The problem should be evident when you inspect these. Most times its just an insect nest built inside preventing the board from sensing the flame (if it is lighting for a moment). Let me know 💪.

@@nicholasgriffin6631 Thanks for the response. I will pull it out, review your videos (should have known it wasn’t the sail switch) and let you know how I make out.

Scott, usually that is only found on the older model furnaces. I would have to be there to see if you had a control board that is compatible with the high and low fan settings of the thermostat. I can tell you that all modern furnaces only have one setting for the blower/fan. If you have any questions about any of your systems, just reach out. I am knowledgeable in most systems and will help when I can. I am not on TH-cam every day because I have a busy work life, but I always respond when I finally see the question or comment. 💯 Wishing you the best.

I never go with something before testing. So if you think you were having an issue sensing flame Logan, please understand you have 2 components responsible for that. And before looking at either of those, I would pull the furnace and inspect for an insect nest, because they like to build right where your ignitor tip goes. And second I would inspect the gap from ignitor to burner tube. Also I would inspect your orifice where the gas come out after the gas valve solenoid, because gnats love to get in there and clog it up enough to were some gas can get through, but not enough for full flame. After I check those its down to your actual ignitor wire and tip being faulty, or your control board could not be sensing the flame. I would advise before throwing parts at it, to have a tech pull and inspect those components. You may get a fix without any parts needed. 💯

I make these mainly for young technicians since I see so many need proper training, yet seeing that they help owners as well, I am glad that it helped you and others. When daylight savings is over and it is bright again at 6 am, I plan to cover just about every system on RV'S this year. Hopefully these future videos will be just as much help. Thank you for your words Patrick, they mean a lot.

Harry, on your control board, when it isn't working, check for positive DC voltage at the white connector on the blue wire and then the red wire. Let me know and we will know what to check next.

@@nicholasgriffin6631 wow, thank you so much for responding so quick!!! Problem is that between 8:45 and noon this thing decided to work. Still going. My fear is though that when it’s gets below again I am left with no heat again

@@harryohanson I'm hoping we can figure it out. Propane won't stay liquid unless it's -44° so that's not the issue. We'll need to use a voltmeter when the problem happens to get an idea of whats going on. Also next time it happens go outside to it and listen for 2 things. 1) the soft thunk of your gas valve opening, and the ticking of your ignitor electrode. This info will be really useful. I hope it doesn't stop working on you again though!

@@nicholasgriffin6631 oh that is a good idea! Thank you so much!!

Your question depends on what kind of thermostat and air conditioner you have? They operate the furnace differently based on which you have.

Texasliam so I can better help you, what exactly is your furnace doing? Does it come on and fan blows but never ignites? Does it not come on at all?

Texasliam as seen in my video, on your 4 wire white harness that connects to the control board, do you have DC voltage on the blue wire first and second on the red wire that is on that 4 wire white harness? Those complete the safety check up through the limit switch and sail switch. Get back to me with that answer and let's go from there! This will tell us what we need to check next. In the video its around the 3 minute 20 second mark. 💯

@@nicholasgriffin6631 when the problem re occurs I'll check that.

@@nicholasgriffin6631 it blows for more than 30 seconds usually. And I smell quite a bit of propane on the exaust. Of course I don't have access to the fan side. So I'm hesitant to pull it when it's currently working. I just thinking it might be worthwhile to pull it and clean out the ignition area.??I do have voltage on both sides of the limit switch.

@@texasliam ok I understand a bit more now. So it does work, just sometimes does not want to ignite. Is that correct? If so then I would think you have a good idea to eventually pull it and clean out the burn chamber. Also you could have a small propane leak somewhere that is allowing air into your lp system. This would make your furnace have similar issues. A drop down test using a manometer would reveal this for you. But since you say you smell propane, and it is currently working, I agree with you that some cleaning is the best route to go right now. Reach out again if need be. And keep an eye out for more videos. I haven't shot any lately because of daylight savings time, its too dark in the mornings right now lol. Water heaters are coming next, and eventually everything!

You will have to give me these details for the best help. You should have 4 wires leaving your furnace going into your RV. What colors are connected? And where the wire nuts or electrical connectors are (transitioning from the furnace and then disappearing into your coach) how many wires do you have (coach side). I ask because, of your 2 blue wires, some manufacturers only use one.

The 4 wires coming directly out of your furnace are color coded. Should be red, yellow (this wire is sometimes black) and 2 blue wires. While these wires are consistent from the furnace, when the manufacturer connects them to your RV they use different colors and gauge of wire. The 2 larger wires from the manufacturer should be your main DC positive and negative. The 2 blues are (1) power up (signal related and not always used) and then the last blue (2) is signal down (must be used).

@@nicholasgriffin6631 yep red black and 2 blue, on blue has 12v I’m assuming one of the blues goes to the white, probably came loose moving to where I am now.

@dean lockamy do this. With your thermostat turned off, check that white wire for voltage. Then turn your thermostat back on and turn the thermostat to activate your furnace, and check the white wire for voltage again. If that white wire doesn't have voltage unless you turn on the thermostat and put it to heat (plus have temp set high enough to call for the furnace) then it is your signal wire and you need to connect the white wire to the blue wire that DOES NOT have voltage. However, if the white wire NEVER has voltage, get back to me and let me know. 💪

@@nicholasgriffin6631 thanks Ill try that as soon as i get back up to the camper, Im sure reconnecting that blue wire will do the trick, as we know quality control is less than desirable in camper construction. Ill let you know.

Eric, I just saw your comment. Please pardon the late response. If you have voltage on the wires at the control board, that come through the limit switch and sail switch, my question for you is do you hear the gas valve thunk? It takes 30 seconds or so after the fan runs for the ignition and also the gas valve to thunk and open, letting propane through. If you are hearing the "thunk" of the gas valve but you don't even have an arc from your control board, then I would agree that your board has gone out. Please give me more details so that I can better help you out. And thanks for asking 💪

Its very uncommon (but not impossible) for a fan that spins freely to blow a fuse instantly. Have you checked for continuity between the fan positive wire, and ground? Perhaps you have a short? You could also try applying direct 12vdc to the fan while amp clamping the wires to see how many amps it is pulling. If the amps are within spec (4 to 8 amps is what I usually see) then the issue may be a short. If the amps are high when you apply direct 12vdc and have taken the incoming power supply out of the equation as well as other wires, then you could narrow down to the fan. Get back to me on this one and best of luck to you!

@@nicholasgriffin6631 followed your video and took your advice in the previous reply. All signs pointed to the fan motor. Swapped it out and tested it before I put the furnace back in the rv and everything worked fine. It appears the motor was the original and had a manufacture date of 6/7/99… I’d say it had a pretty good life! Thanks again for the video and the troubleshooting tips!

@@stevenlefler6648 Wow a 99! You definitely got some good life there. And just in time for the cold weather. Feel free to reach out with any other issues. I may not have videos posted on other items, but I have much knowledge and enjoy helping others. Glad you're up and running!

Thank you sir! I have 2 new videos to upload covering water heaters. Unfortunately the one for suburban water heaters is no good because I had a piece of wood blocking the camera view of how to check the control board! 🤣. Stay tuned, I will eventually cover in detail everything involved on RV's.

Usually when you have the furnace on and your rooftop air conditioner still has the fan blowing, it is because you have your air conditioner "fan" set to either high, medium or low. On your thermostat, put the fan setting on "Auto". That should solve your issue.

My furnace is doing the same thing. No air unit fan issue. Just igniting 3 times then shutting down. Will light for 3-5 seconds and go out each time.

@@kentmartin4072 in my experience there are a few things that would cause this. 1) if the ignitor electrode tip is not correctly placed to sense the flame (or has an insect nest in the area preventing the tip from heating up enough. 2) gnats or other insects inside of the orifice on the furnace gas valve, not allowing enough fuel through to keep steady flame. And 3) the least common is a bad control board or ignition electrode. Since the first 2 can be easily identified and the issue solved, I would have these checked first before going with the last possible culprit.

@@kentmartin4072 if yours is doing the same thing then that part is working correctly. The problem is the board is not receiving the feed back on the igniter. The igniter also gets hot and sends this temperature back to the board to tell it that the propane is burning. I just replaced my board with a board from Dinosaur Electronics , this is a nice product with much better features. My furnace is running hot now.

@@nicholasgriffin6631 Hi Nicholas. Are you able to answer these: Is it safe to say that if the unit tries to ignite by going through normal process of trying 3 times (ignitor sparking) before the fan shuts-off after a few minutes, that at this point the culprit will have to be the gas-valve (solenoids) because if there's no gas flowing through valve then the board is not getting power to continue running? In other words, what makes the board shut itself off if there's no combustion? Is there a sensor somewhere that detects flame or is it the valve that ultimately makes this call?