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This was previously lost footage Andy. I just thought I'd share for the people who don't know how to set timing.

Yeah it's becoming a bit of a joke alright Andy. Bad as my cb125 RS was, this is way beyond worse. I know it will run, and whatever the issue is, its simple. It's that stupid kick start that really had me down. I'll try to replace that pin, and hopefully that's what the cause is. It was working fine before I opened it up, so it's possible I might have pushed it in accidentally, and it's not now grabbing the slot in the shaft the way it should. It's no fun being out all this money over it, but if I don't need that bottom end I found, I'll make another engine out of that as it only needs a barrell and two side casings. I have a spare head here. Then I'll sell the engine and get my costs back.

@terraplane49 it's a great event. I missed it the past few years with life being busy , kids etc. I since found a brand new old stock tank gor the cb125 plus almost brand new panels. So I don't even need the labels now. The frame is now away having major surgery after noticing a catastrophe when I stripped the bike. Waiting to get it back now. But I have a cd175 here to torture my head in the mean time.

Maybe that's because I'm not a professional 😂

I meant tank slapper

@Peter-ms5ub yeah I have to agree the handling on them is shit. Even compared to my cb125 rs, but to be fair there's 8 years in the difference between them

I never had a tank slapper like that before or since , maybe it needed a steering damper , or maybe it was my riding style , I think not , let's be cautious and say no it's the bike , it was my brothers bike , I remember it being easy to start , clean and reliable , but it was new , maybe a good commuter bike , as opposed to the CB models , more sporty ,. My son could throw my cl400 about but I'm more cautious and tend to cruise more , I mostly had two strokes , with lower centres of gravity so maybe that made a difference . I hope you sort it and I would love to see it going , take care .

@Peter-ms5ub slow troublesome and dangerous by today's standards in my own opinion. Nice looking bike though. An old guy years ago has a bike shop and when I first started fixing at bikes he said to me never to go near a cd175. He was so rite, I should have took his advice. Theyr great when theyr running rite but the parts are quite weak (kick start shaft especially) and the oil system is very easy to clog up and make a mess of the cam etc. They need to be kept very well maintained to avoid these issues. I hope to have it running again soon and then move on to painting it hopefully.

Very interesting , we only knew them when they were new machines , it's amazing how much you can find out on you tube bout all these bikes , British bikes had a very bad press in the late 70's maybe the Japanese bikes were to new to us to know about maybe the British bikes weren't so bad , even so most if not all of the bikes we had had problems , does your 175 have a starter motor ?

@@andyshondaxlsrestorations4733 I'll go through the fuel system tonight if it won't start with a good battery. Failing that it's gotta be that the cam timing is a half tooth out even though it doesn't look like that.

That's true Andy. Only it's a friends I wouldn't have taken it on. If I'd known how much trouble it was going to be I wouldn't have. But I have it now and I never start something and don't finish it. If the engine is running correct next week I'm starting paint and it won't take long to do that. I think from now on I'm sticking to my own after that. Might take one on if I have nothing of my own there to work on but that's it.

@damo690 OK mate good luck with it 👍 👏 👌

@andyshondaxlsrestorations4733 I'll get more oil this week for it and I'll put the engine back into it tonight. My main concern is the kickstart shaft. I really can't afford to break another one. Theyr very hard to find and when you do find them theyr very expensive because they were a very common piece to break in these engines. And it's not even my bike. When a part gets broken tat wasn't broken when it came to me, I end up out of pocket having to replace it. That's just my mentality, if it wasn't broke when it came here then the customer shouldn't have to pay for a new piece.

@damo690 When it comes to fixing other people's bikes, I.Steer away from it. Because of the problems you are coming across. We know it's bad enough when we work on our own bikes m8. Good luck with it m8.

Yes the rattling is caused by the rollers. I don't put grease in eith the rollers as I believe it stops them working correctly

Поршневая гремит у меня.., выхлоп.....громко...надо что то с этим делать, разбираться

@@Zahar-gc4bc can't translate

​@Zahar-gc4bc it's is possible that your crank bearings are worn and thst you need to replace them. It's a very common problem with this particular Model of bike. You will see from my videos what you need to do to replace them though. My advice is to replace them before they disintegrate and destroy the piston and conrod among other things. You will see in my first videos of repairing the red one, the damage it will do if theyr not changed on time.

@andyshondaxlsrestorations4733 thanks Andy.

@anemone104 yeah they weren't one of Hondas better bikes. Poor design and cheap metal. When I first started looking at bikes an old guy I knew who fixed bikes told me never to go near a cd175. I never knew why he said that to me but now I know why. 🤣. It's running now. Took it for a spin yesterday but it started dicking around on me when it heated up. Not sure what it is yet. Carbs clean and petcock so it's not fuel related. There was a bit of oil leaking from the bottom of the barrell which is a bit of a worry. I'm looking for an original set of mudgards but theyr very hard to find

@@damo690 They were designed down to a price - commuters don't want to pay more than they really have to. If used as a commuter, they were okay and a bit more able to live with traffic than a C50 plop. But if you tried to go fast a lot, you'd quickly come up against the limitations of the handling (no oil in rear shocks) brakes and 4 speed box. Honda did worse later (CD185 and 200 Benlys - again commuter bikes - and the CJ250 which was a grenade/lemon. The earlier sloper CD had a completely pressed steel frame and was a smaller, lighter bike with better handling, more 'go' and lasted better. They'd outlast and outperform any Brit of a similar size including Triumph 350s. I thrashed my R reg CD everywhere and put a ton of miles on it, but it was a mutant. Look at the auto advance for hot running issues. I had one that cracked where the central spindle meets the backplate. The bob-weight springs can go weak and the bob weights can go floppy on their little pivots due to long-term lack of lube. Might not be that, but it is a good place to look. Mudguards rot at the bridge for the fronts and on the bolt housings (spot welded) for the rears. Road dirt accumulates and stays wet and there was never much paint under there. I used the sloper guards that were ABS and excellent quality, but very rare. Those huge plastic side panels were thin and went brittle due to exposure to UV light. They're over 40 years old now so will be very frail. I used CB200 side panels, but I had twin carbs and CB200 air boxes. Plastic headlamp bowl is also very frail. Blue plastic lasted better than red. Alloy was fine. But like all Jap bikes of the period, those X-head (JIS) bolts went in dry in the factory. So UK wet and salt, plus steel in alloy meant electrolytic corrosion. Use a smear of grease when replacing and they were fine. In my experience, your old boy would have been right back in the day because the CBs were better all round and when old and used were only slightly more money. I liked my mutant CD. I learned a lot and it took me all over the southern half of the UK at a time when I was one of Maggie's millions.

@@map5332 Bonjour. malheureusement, je ne suis pas très bon en français. pouvez-vous me traduire en anglais s'il vous plaît. je ne peux pas copier ceci depuis TH-cam

@@map5332 ma réponse à cette question est oui, cela peut être fait. mais vous devrez retirer les pièces de la roue de stator et de la bobine ainsi que le couvercle de courroie gauche. vous devrez également retirer le pignon de démarrage de l'arbre sur le côté gauche de la manivelle. je l'ai fait de cette façon mais ce n'est pas simple de mettre les nouveaux joints de cette façon car ils ont tendance à ne pas entrer même et vous pouvez les détruire facilement.

@@damo690 OK, super , merci pour votre très bon français 😍👍. Pensez-vous que cela irait avec un tube rond pour les renter ? J imagine que oui ? Merci pour vos réponse rapide 😉.

@@map5332 oui, je pense que cela fonctionnera si c'est la bonne taille.

@@damo690 OK merci. 👌

@markogojkovic5541 when I bought this bike I did not know how rare it was. It was only when I tried to find some of the model specific parts that I realised. The frame is away at the moment getting work done. I managed to pick up some brand new panels for it that came from a crashed bike when it was only 1 year old. So the panels are in extremely good condition and I won't need to paint them. I only need to have the frame powder coated and clean up all the other pieces. It should work out to be a nice bike when finished. I think I will keep it as I have put a serious amount of money into it now and it will be nice to have a lovely little bike to have fun on in summer times.

@markogojkovic5541 the bike in the picture is not my bike, it is one I found on Google and hope to make mine as nice looking again with as many original parts as I can find

@@damo690 A okey,this like new cost 1800€ here,i was thinking u sold it to someone first haha 🤘

@Romin.777 when a bike like that's left sitting too long the bearings start to rust and then they are no good and need to be changed.

@stephenoreilly sure. This one's in poor condition unfortunately, but it's to be expected for a bike that saw such extensive use. Body panels and mudgards are very hard to find for them in good condition.

@gymhull you need to hammer the old bearing recievers/cups out of the bike headstock and gently hammer the new ones in with a block of wood or rubber mallet. Then you need to get yourself some thick grease and slather it all over the ring on the forks and fit the bearings one by one very carefully. The grease will hold them in place if it's put on thick enough. It's a gentle job. Then when you have the bearings stuck to the forks, slide them into the headstock and onto let them slide out again or you may lose some bearings. After that is done just repeat the process on the top of the headstock by putting the bearings into the cup and screw the groved washer down on to them.

@gymhull I got them on ebay. Was a good while ago I got them though.

@@gymhull www.ebay.ie/itm/403587303289?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=5282-175127-2357-0&ssspo=lMOeendpRKe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=c-a89HgqSPu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Did you have to place the balls individually not come in a fixed ring

@glowingtrees I only know it's a ceramic capacitor. But in most cases it's usually not blown it just requires re soldering on the bottom. Do be careful if opening an amp (just in case you don't know) capacitors can store a lot of power and if you don't drain the power from it before touching anything, you could get a nasty shock that in cases of tube amps especially could even kill you even if it's not plugged in anymore.

@@damo690 100% I appreciate the info. I've been working on Amps for a while. Thanks for the speedy response!

@@davidyoung9561 I also have a fully restored red 1996 one here. You can see the restoration in my play lists.

I drilled a small hole in the fuel cap and fitted a gravity fed petcock. Works great now. The bowl of the carberator must have been a tiny bit bigger and messed with the ratio. I'd take it up the road and it would start to starve of fuel.

You have a lot of bits missing?? Send me some pics of it and I'll see if I have any of them spare.

I’ve taken some today useless with technology though I can’t figure out how to send them via TH-cam 😂

Damien Sherry

I hope I can manage to sort out the frame situation. They're not easy to get a hold of

@@damo690, _Yur Name with 690 ist about KTMs ?_ _i also have an old HONDA, was abandoned some years._

690 was just a random number I picked at the time. I'd love to see your onld honda bike pictures.

I'll do my best. May not be viable cost wise though.

I have them just for fun now but they do come in very useful when my car breaks down. I love the old vintage look of them. I can appreciate the designs even if I never use them a lot.

I'll have a look. Are you sure they fit a 1959 26N model? I bought cables for another 1960 N26 that I fixed up for a friend and some weren't the correct size.

I'm pretty sure this is the same. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373076379400?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ReLMhrjrR4O&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=c-a89HgqSPu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks for that mate. I have a spare engine that I totally rebuilt there. The one that came with it runs great now bur needs the kick start gears changed. I have a set for it though. It's just a pity I can't get hold of a frame for one of these bikes.

My repair has held out without much issues so far. So it seems to work.

My bike was missing it's rear rack & without these there is nothing to hold onto to pull the bike onto the centre stand other than either the seat or rear mudguard (neither of which is strong enough)...i have since bought a rack for mine so now just need to do a proper repair the same as you have done.@@damo690

I haven't done that yet as I'm unsure how the air assisted fork work, and I'm afraid of doing damage to them. I'm going to get my friend Darren to do them. If thy were just normal forks I'd attempt it but they're not unfortunately. I'll ask Darren if he will record himself doing it and explain.

@@damo690 , no worries, I have a friend who may know, so I'll ask him, who knows, it may help both of us

@@terraplane49 keep me informed

@@damo690 , will do. Good luck.

Spoke to Doug, he said that the forks are usually very easy to strip, and to keep the springs in them to help with separation. Also, don't worry about the air bit, as it was really wasted on such small forks, and tends to pop seals, although the recommended pressure is only 2-5 psi, and in any case virtually impossible to measure accurately. Just treat them as non-air forks.

Correct. I unfortunately do not have an air box for it and they're not easy to find.

It did turn out to be the ignition coil in the end up.

Mine is also missing it's original airbox but has a K&N filter fitted that seems to be doing the job okay, not sure how it would fare in the rain though being close to the back wheel.@@damo690

Is it possible that your jet size is too small?

@@damo690 I think it's original looks really old

Could be taking in air around the head or the rubber boot where the carb hooks on. Check the boot itself very closely for cracking and take the carb off and check the rubber o ring

I could also be a blocked pilot jet that causes that issue. I know you cleaned it but be sure to take it out and check that you can see light through it. If not then it's blocked up and needs cleaning with a fine piece if wire or something.

Did you have a battery in the bike? I cleaned the carbs as you will see in my other vids. It was fine when it warmed up. Carbs might need syncing though.

I'll post up a few more videos. Working on the brakes currently. Couldn't get the rear brake to bleed after cleaning the pistons. Turns out I didn't put crush washers on the banjo bolt. I don't work on hydraulic brakes a lot so I didn't know they were needed.

It did make it a bit more lively but not much faster. The Mallossi gears made the biggest difference

No. I also put the Mallossi final drive kit into it. You will see if you search trough my videos. I have a complete playlist on this bike from day one. I have a Chinese carberator with electric choke also. Since this video I have fitted a 70cc big bore kit and it is quite a fast bike for its size. A bit hard on fuel now though.

th-cam.com/video/NeHrMYK8ju8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=i_-ZS3mKNxPWkIlC This is it with the 70 big bore kit, silent pro exhaust and Mallossi gears.

@@damo690 Do you also have a video with only the Technigas exhaust? I've had a scoopy since yesterday and it's now going 25mph. I want it to go to 32/35mph. so I think such an exhaust is sufficient

I noticed a small pick up in power with just the exhaust but it didn't go a lot faster to be honest. If I was going to spend money I'd fit the Mallossi gears first. They make the biggest difference.

Are you the guy that posted your new bike up on the sh50 Facebook page today?