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base hp is rated at about 150, with a .5 bar charge, I would hope for about 50-60 more putting it a bit over 200 hp. Should be able to at least stay close to a modern mini van then when drag racing to the super market :)

Thanks, its really looking nice, I removed the plastic poly loom and recovered with some high temp cloth tape. Added a strain relief made from a clamp of some kind for the factory location clamp. tidied up the rest of the wires that go to the injectors and sensors. going to do some monitor data on the O2 sensor for a later video.

Maybe my next career!

Much easier, really just removing pins, cleaning/shortening leads and terminations, just finished the pump relay. Only thing left is to fix a couple more leads (CHTS/AAR/knock sensor) and add the 6 /4 pin under dash connector (the wires are all set, just need to terminate them). Got all the injectors done,TPS done. I even tested the FP relay (ECU out, power to ign on and neg to pin 108 (think that is the one), to make sure the relay clicked (added diode to prevent reverse EMF). I wanted to make sure I did the diode in the correct polarity across the relay coil. Used a test light to limit current, all good. Thats pretty much the only thing I can see that could be messed up since all the rest of the wiring is stock, but for the added resister pack. I made sure the resistor load was always split between the two banks of 3, so on the 2 resistor pack I have inj 1 and 6, on the 4 pack I have the 2,3,4,5. That way during any injector event both resistor pack have current flowing thru them.

I think i will get some noid lights (think that is what they are called) and watch that happen real time.

You know I do!!

Great!

I am looking to move it to around the FPR, same concept just more surface area.

Yep, side mounted makes it kind of awkward when its installed. Nice to work on tube stuff.

did you use a Knock sensor?

If you are going to muck around that much better to just install a crank and cam sensor with an aftermarket ecu

@@sammyd7857 Perhaps, but I enjoy the muck around part.

​@@sammyd7857very true yeah set a ecu up u can have all the data u need on ur laptop and not have to set up like a mad scientist with 50yr old tech

I can see the extra horsies by how fast it whips your hair back when you snap the throttle. I'm sure it will be a very different seat feal when the turbo Gs kick in between gears. Yeehaw!🤠🤙

@@leviscott8519 yep, its coming along. I plan to check out the EGR and AAC to see if I can make those work on 300 computer. I also have an idea on how to make the auto clean function of the MAF on the 300 work, maybe by using the EGR pulse to trigger it.

I was playing with it some later, operating the fuel pump relay as well as the EFI relay in both modes. Fun stuff. I am going to lay it out and start checking all the sensor inputs and solinoid/heater continuity next. Still have to assemble the MAF connector.

couple weeks, lots of extensive testing before actually trying it out. That and waiting on a post from Japan for the AAC/EGR OE style connectors that attach to the vacuum modulator.

pretty sure you can find the FSM look for 280z factory manual on google. I don't have it handy.

I am curious as well

@@chriscalderin6677 anti-hysterisis I think.

​​@@davewm9589 I had to look up that word! So the fake points right? Is it just to put tension on the shaft to keep it from bouncing around so the pick up is more accurate/ not floating around??????? I am working on this for a friend and he really loves his 78 280z. I did notice more than a few degrees of fluctuating off idle. We may not be talking about the same thing but the fake points really confused me so I just put a dot of grease in it and left it alone we have been cleaning connections and working on the entire car for a long time.

@@chriscalderin6677 Thats my guess, the forces imposed on the distributor shaft by moving past the coil (magnetic) left un compensated would induce vibrations that over time could stress the bearing surface (which is just a bushing). I suppose the engineers were just thinking ultimate reliability of a new tech (no points).

oh yea, its going to be a work of art when done! I printed out tiny flags to attach to the wire ends to help me keep the pinout straight. I am looking forward to seeing if I can operate that AAC as well with the inverter (if that is all it takes to operate the vacuum modulator). I am also looking into using the fuel temp sensor and the FP regulator vacuum bypass. I think you had one of those in the parts stash.

Its coming along, waiting for a firewall grommet, needs to go on before starting terminations. Also how to make the adapter plugs for 280zxt vs 300zet. Thats taking some thinking.

Glad to help, it's why I do these videos in the hope someone finds them useful. Take care!

I am going to see if I can also add a provision for adding dropping resistors (a plug that can be bypassed or used depending on the need) AND maybe a plug that will allow for selection of either 280zxt ecu or the 300zx ecu. From what I understand there are only a few wires that need to be swapped, so a 6 pin plug should be all that is needed to allow a choice. Will have both the MAF and the AFM connector, and the O2 sensor provisions on the harness. I am on hold waiting to see about getting a fire wall grommet, terminations will have to wait until I get that.

@@davewm9589 Very clever idea! Mabe a dropping resistor just after the 6 pin plug with a plug just on the there side so It can be unplugged when swapping back to original. Very good original ideas here. You are paving your own lane Dave. Love it!

yep and very reasonable cost too!. I also have a supply of NOS can caps that I keep just as donors in case I want to build a cap for a specific purpose. I just cut them off and use the bases. I don't trust them enough to use (50-60 year old guts).

Glad it helps. I really like the old school stuff, works and is simple electronically. I never understood why things have to be made more complicated. I am stunned at the level of complexity of modern cars especially for simple functions. All the "modules" to control just about every electrical device. Just makes me wonder if the intent was to make cars unfixable to push the sale of new stuff.

@@davewm9589 I think you hit the nail on the head. Car wizard has a video that explains how newer vehicals are starting to run on a monthly subscription for even standard features and if you don't pay the monthly fee even if the vehicle is paid off you lose a lot of features. Finding solid more analog vehicals and keeping them in good shape is going to be more and more important as time goes on it seems. I won't own most vehicals after 2004ish. They lost me with the tire pressure monitoring and such. EPA and corporate greed is the enemy of what should be continued improvement. It has gone backwards for the auto industry for consumers for sure. Lucky for us we have found a fun timeless sports car with a reliable Power train and fun to work on. Love the Datsun L series

I also do not care for new cars, just too much emphasis on tech and not on driving. Perhaps with the way some folks drive (i think its called "distracted driving" maybe that is a good thing) more tech is needed for them to keep from ramming into me.@@leviscott8519

@@davewm9589 I agree. There is nothing like the feel of a raw 40-80s Era well made bare bones drive train. Also have no interest in self driving vehicals. I'd rather drive with someone who has had a couple shots of whisky. 😂

that was my thought, less hassle on the intake air without the large AFM. My buddy dropped off all the stuff the other day. I may try building the harness from scratch, IIRC he had some connectors in there that would fit to the ECU.

that is a bit on the High side IMHO maybe 23-24k You dont want to go to high and stress the insulation on the flyback

big time!

​@@davewm9589do you know how you get that bike to idle. Low compression i mean zero but still start and rips. Carb not idle screw so how you do it.

I ended up just replacing the carb with a mikcuni clone that has an idle screw. idles fine, had to tweek the needle IIRC think I raised it a notch to richen the middle.@@kabepro2176

@@davewm9589 does it matter that my air pilot screw was totally closed

I would think that would mean your idle mix is too lean, IIRC .5 to 1.5 turns open is normal. Should only be an idle issue.