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Lyon Construction
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 19 พ.ย. 2019
From Concept to Creation!
Facebook: GrahamLyonConstruction
TH-cam: th-cam.com/users/LyonConstruction
Facebook: GrahamLyonConstruction
TH-cam: th-cam.com/users/LyonConstruction
How to Replace a Sliding Glass Door
In this project, we replaced a sliding glass door that was vandalized.
00:00 Introduction
00:25 Materials
02:19 Old Door Removal
06:39 New Door Preparation
11:44 New Door Installation
15:26 Conclusion
00:00 Introduction
00:25 Materials
02:19 Old Door Removal
06:39 New Door Preparation
11:44 New Door Installation
15:26 Conclusion
มุมมอง: 85 147
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Great❤very much detailed!🎉
great job but what a buncha bullshit from these manufacturers! They easily coulda designed the flexible lines to be disconnected on both ends with a simple wrench. then all you gotta do is buy new lines. or they could design it the way they ACTUALLY did, forcing us to buy entire new faucets over and over and over...
Thanks for detailed explanation
Attention to detail. Very nice.
The old compression shut-off valves end up being leaky, and impossible to totally turn off - and should be banned from home use. Quarter turn ball valves are simpler, totally effective, and last forever.
love how you showed us step by step from the beginning to the end and showed us your thought process throughout
I have a similar situation, only on the left side and our doors are oversized. Pella quotes more than $4,000 to replace the pane and more than $5,000 to replace the whole (half) panel, plus we’d have to pay to pain the interior to match the existing window frame, which is a specific offwhite. I’m going to get a couple of competing quotes, but doing it myself looks impossible.
If it was vandalism you can do a home insurance claim to help with the cost. My deductible for example is 2k and 5000 to replace a slider. So I send insurance the quote and collected the 3k and used it to buy the door and install my self. Ended up making $1000
@ It was not vandalism. The HOA employs landscape gardeners, and as far as I could tell (I was sitting there on the phone), the large lawnmower threw up a stick which hit the window and broke the outer pane. I was on a zoom call with my doctor discussing bloodwork results, and did not want to interrupt the call. I should have gone outside immediately and confronted the landscape worker, gone to his supervisor, etc. Instead, I elected to think of it as a minor nuisance and deal with it by phone later. Getting the correct insurance documents from the HOA was the hard part. They are supposed to take some responsibility for the outside of the units. We have excellent homeowners insurance, but they needed these documents. The window company also needed documents. The HOA dragged its heels forever, the property manager refused to answer my phone calls. We eventually got it settled. No HOA ever again, if we ever move. Thanks for your suggestion. Oh, this was a very large slider and my husband and I are not able to do work like that.
It wasn’t vandalism he was arguing with his girlfriend , lost his temper and threw something at the glass. You need to work on your temper bud
A 2x4 cross brace would stop the gate from sagging in time and attaching the wood spindles on the outside of the frame vertically.
Great video man!!!!
Heat rises do the bottom first ad the flame is applied to he heavier valve flange not the pipe to avoid a cold joint.
A 2x4 cross support brace would prevent any sagging
Mahalo for the knowledge 🤙🏼
I’m getting ready to make a gate for our patio, I’ll use some of your tips to make it not only look more finished but also easier to build. One tip I will share regarding baluster spacing: get a length of knit elastic banding (available at any fabric store… 25 cents per yard), using a black marker, make a mark every two inches on the unstretched elastic. When you need to space anything equal distances, stretch the elastic between the two outside rails… the “two-inch marks” will become 4.38217” (or whatever spacing you require) all without any math involved.
...my neighbour installed a small wheel on a bottom of their deck gate to prevent any tilt that will inevitably occur over time...
No cross braces? Good luck! Sagging gate on its way.
I have a Kohler kitchen sink which is about 20 years old. Over the years I have had to replace an internal gaskets two or 3 times and the feed hoses once or twice. First seemed like too much maintenance over the years? Kohler does stuff like the feeds my sink only fit my Kohler faucet on the faucet. You have to order these from Kohler, not in stock any place I found. Not only a pain, expensive, but a total disregard for their customers ease of repair for their corporate greed.
Did you pre-drill for the screws that hold the main four 2x4s together? Or just drill with the counter-sink bit and let the screws do the rest?
Best detailed video tutorial. One thing about when you use sawdust to fill the gaps, I find it best (and better) is to mix sawdust with the glue then put it on wherever you need it. I have done it for my deck and it came out stronger than the glue itself as well looks "better/uniformed" even when staining/sealing- it'll take the stain in better. Also stops those knots from seeping out down the road. Keep up with the good tutorial as it's simpler than other methods which requires more or "complicated" tools.
I have one just like the old one that I attached a cord to and use for night lighting
Cutting out mold does nothing, but I understand you're doing it for views.
I saw this globe in bathroom of Kilauea military camp apartment
Please dont do it like that. Heat the pipe (not red hot) then move the heat to the cup of the valve angling it toward the pipe. Use water soluabke tinning flux and wipe your joint off after it cools
you did not tell me if i should or should not use the white plumbers tape on the supply lines...
I saw this light at home depot
Thanks so much for this, helped a lot!
Thank u I am afraid of the old pipes breaking if I turn them i wish I could send a photo i have 2 shut offs to the hot and cold then there is a blue daily one to the water supply do I turn that off ? I am lost
Before doing any work on the water supply to the sink, I would advise you to turn off the water main to the whole house to be safe. This becomes even more essential if you are replacing the sink's shut-off valves like I did in the video.
Muy bonito pero deberías mostrar cómo poner las varillas de madera y esos tornillos en ángulo. Gracias.
Why couldn't you just replace the double-pane glass module??
The glass alone costs more I guess
@@joelalcala6317I doubt that
@@ramimar6656he's not wrong. The panel alone is over $400!
Great informative video! Thank you!
Best and most detailed video I’ve found. Thank you for sharing. I’m bout to build one for myself thanks to you
Fantastic video Thank you
Thanks for giving such great tips, I will be passing them on to my husband as he builds a gate for our daughters deck.
Nice job. I think I am going to steal your design. Thanks.
Would it have been possible for you to use the bottom nails fin? Why did you choose not to?
I think I could have used the bottom, too. I don't remember why I did not. As far as I understand, the replacements often come without flanges like the one I took out. Feel free to use it just make sure everything is water tight.
cant the glass just be replaced?
Had same question.
sure it can - but the replacement has to be manufactured specifically for the existing door - which, depend on backlog, can take quite some time and if it's an unusual size can cost more money just replacing the whole door with frame is done in a day and likely didn't cost as much anyway or in short: it's a question about cost and availability - not about sustainability
Lies, lies lies, I live in South Africa just called a glass place got it cut to size and the handyman put it in for me 😂😂 50 bucks to fix the glass @@cryptearth
Amazing video tutorial; thank you for the extra detail! Very helpful!
You're very welcome!
excellent video. I cant help but wonder who did this to your door? Did you find out anything? police report? I would be in RAMBO mode..
Great video sir. Thanks.
What I would add, is the importance of picking out a good 2 x 4. Maybe you did and I missed it. I built my frame today and it is warped. I had a slightly warped board from Home Depot. I got the two last Cedar boards. I should’ve paid more and went to a proper lumber yard. Not quite sure what to do about my warped frame at the moment.
Mine warped too and was hanging so that the bottom was flush with opposite sides of the post without the hinges. I installed a wood stop at the bottom to stop it where it should stop and had to push hard to close the gate. It hit the wood stop first, and the extra push bent the top until the latch held it. After a few months, the warp was gone. You retrain the grain over time. Hope this helps.
Home Improvement stores tend to have picked over PT wood. My local lumber yard has much better wood and cares for it better in the yard
That’s exactly how my slider glass broke a couple weeks ago!
You never really showed about screwing the strips into structure in the wall. I have a project for a family member, due to some CLOWN mounting closet rods into nothing but drywall-----double rod set-up and, of course, where did all the clothes end up? On the floor! These so-called "handy men or women" who should not be doing any kind of construction work. I see you had a perfect example of that before you started where the strips were "fastened" to nothing but drywall. Shoddy work and someone probably paid to have it done. So maddening to see work done like that!
Awesome vid. Going to copy your design. Love it. How long would you wait to stain pressure treated pine with semi-solid deck stain to match the rest of my deck?
I would wait 6-12 months until it starts acting like a sponge when exposed to moisture.
@@LyonConstruction Sounds good. Also (rookie question here), instead of #9 x 3-1/8" screws, is it fine if I use #10 x 3-1/2" on the frame? I have extras lying around and would like to not have to buy more screws. Can I also use #10 x 3-1/2" on the balusters too?
@Steve K A #10 is a larger thread diameter than a #9, making it slightly stronger which should be fine for the gate, especially if you predrill to avoid potential splitting. I would not use them for the balusters because the screw head is huge, and those are at an angle. I would definitely go with the trim head version for the balusters. It is easier to countersink them and hide them for finish work.
@@LyonConstruction I went with the trim screws per your recommendation. Last question. Why did you miter vs cross cut the frame ends?
@@slappy1965 Three reasons I can think of at the moment: (1) I like the look better since it makes it similar to a picture frame (2) It provides more surface area for the glue and (3) It shortens the distance to screw through to get from one board to the next although I suppose you could countersink further, use longer screws, have angled pocket screws, etc.
My flex hose is leaking at the crimp fitting on the end. I guess it gave out. How do I fix it? Can it be recrimped? Or does it need to be replaced
I had this problem too. I just replaced the whole hose. Seems to be leak free for now.
Very helpful video thanks for sharing
This is the second one for the basement bat. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
Nice job!
Thanks king
Are these cold - hot lines connections universal even 4 foreign faucets?
It's all quit nicely!