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Some have contaminants on the glass from the factory, so I normally clean them with methylated spirits before installing.

Whenever I change out a burnt-out bulb for a new bulb, regardless of how careful I think I am to avoid touching the glass with bare fingers, I always wipe the bulb down with methylated spirits OR Isopropyl alcohol-soaked lint-free cloth.

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Good thing it has a coated lamp, clear lamps in high bays produce so much glare. I hate when people put clear lamps in indoor metal halide lights. Clear ones are okay for outside, but clear ones are way too harse indoors. Clear lamp in high bay makes it very glare ly.

Indeed 320 watts is rather uncommon for metal halide, particularly for high bay lights. 250, 400 and 1000 watts are probably among the most widely used metal halide high bays. Of course in this day and age the majority of them have been replaced with LED, either the cob style that directly connects to line voltage, or the fixture replaced with integrated LED.

If you do accidentally touch a halogen capsule with your fingers, you can clean it off with rubbing alcohol prior reinstall and you shouldn't have a problem. I have heard that liquor alcohol can also be used to clean halogen bulbs after being touched but preferably rubbing alcohol. But in either case, if you can find an LED replacement for the double ended halogen like in this video, you should try it. I am quite sure that the bulbs lost vacuum and burned out that way.

Nice light

Halogen bulbs can easily melt or lose vacuum, but this black is caused by skin oil overheating the quartz (glass) of the bulb. This could also be caused by lack of Iodine/Bromine, halogen gasses that extend the life of the bulb, by collecting evaporated Tungsten, and redepositing it on the filament. I have seen air causing halogen bulbs to fail. The bulb turns gray and blue and the filament turns black.

Sodium lamp i like

GE M250R2 with the fco configuration

Interesting. Looks like when a high pressure sodium light turns off.

Apparently these bulbs did not have the correct vacuum or gases inside, it is common in these situations for the bulb to darken or turn blue, you can see that the one you took out of the other lamp was already blue

Cool

Nice new lighting bench! I like the F25T8 strip light! Congrats on your TH-cam success so far! I have been on here for two years. Growth may seem slow at first, but with dedication you will see success! You can do it! About the fluorescent lamps, I’m not quite sure if removing the lamps causes damage the ballast. I tend to think not though, lots of people do it with seemingly no issue. The kind of lamps you have are F40T12 lamps. These are normally 40 watts each. The 34-watt version you have is the so-called energy-saver version, which operates on the same ballast (with certain exceptions) and saves a bit of energy versus the regular version. These lamps cannot run on preheat F40T12 ballasts, older rapid-start F40T12 ballasts, or some residential-grade F40T12 rapid-start ballasts. Generally, if you have a high power factor (commercial grade) rapid-start ballast made in the 1980s or after, you can run energy-savers. The ballast will say if it can run energy-savers, so check to make sure before installing them. The warmer fluorescent lamps you have are 3000K, saw it on the etch for one. The colder ones look to be 6500K. The one you removed is 4100K. As for the number on the lamp, “F” stands for fluorescent. “40” is the watts (but only on bi-pin lamps, for slimline and high-output it’s the length of the fixture it goes in). Then after that there is usually a “T” followed by a number. The number is the diameter of the lamp in eighth inches. So a T12 is 12/8 in. and a T8 is 8/8 in. On the F40T12, they usually leave out the “T12” for simplicity I guess. Then there is usually a color code. In the case of the lamp you showed, “CW” means halophosphate cool white. Then there may be other codes as well, indicating energy savers, high-output lamps, rapid-start only lamps, or low-mercury lamps, stuff like that.

Cool! You sould try connecting the red and black wire for the dryer motor. 8:36 F40 means 40 inches actually, but that rod looks like it's 60 inches. I'm not too sure on that.

4:18 This could be because not as much light can pass through the frosting.

Nice light bulbs!

😂😂😂😂

Couldn’t really see the letters and numbers engraved into bulb screw base, but if they consisted of “JFMAMJJASOND 1234567890”, the letters stand for the months of the year, January, February, March, April, etc. The numbers stand for the last number of the year. These were provided for fixture and bulb installer to mark the month and year the bulb was installed, where the service person would scratch out the month letter and number with a sharp object. This way, the next time the bulb burned out or was checked, they could see when bulb was installed. This was done in the older bulbs, those made in the USA. The newer HID bulbs don’t have these markings, but have a date code of manufacture instead engraved on bulb base. Out of all the older HID bulbs I have seen, I have never once seen one where the date markings were scratched out. The service people were probably too much in a hurry to take the time to scratch out the month and year on these bulbs.

3:52 They do make those MR16s in 120V. They have GU10 bases instead of GU5.3. 4:18 There is some sort of relationship between bulb shape and the amount of light it gives off for a given wattage. I’m not sure why, but you’ll notice that specialty bulbs are typically dimmer than regular A19 bulbs. So an A19 40W bulb might be 450 lumens and the A15 and B10 bulbs like you showed were 375 and 350 respectively. 5:00 NSP stands for narrow spot 5:38 Wow, that halogen bulb must not be modified spectrum, since it doesn’t have a reduced lumen output. Notice how the GE ones at 7:01 have a reduced lumen output, they have a coating that modifies the light spectrum they emit to make it warmer. First time I’ve seen a Sylvania non-modified spectrum one in the A19 shape. 7:31 Nope, at least not for the US market. They were banned from first-hand sale in the US not too long ago. 11:58 Wow, those are some very late 60W incandescent bulbs if they have the lighting facts on them. That was introduced in 2011, and 60W incandescent bulbs were banned from sale in 2014.

Cool! The reason why those bulbs are rated for 130V is so that when you power them with 120V, they aren't at full capacity making them last longer.

The bulb is a Westinghouse lifeguard mercury vapor bulb

Very cool!