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Thank you. Unfortunately I'm not sure what advice to give her other than to recommend you talk to a Victron distributor or certified electrical engineer for your special case.

I'm not sure I follow, can you elaborate on your question?

Thank you! Hope it helped :)

I figure you have it under load and the fans are running as an inverter? I don't often hear it when it is charging. Check with your dealer to ensure your unit is working properly.

Thanks for the input.

Which manual and page please?

@VanTransitions I don't think I can paste a link here. I found it in a victron community forum. It was a reply from victron stating not to use ferrules on mppt's. Google search and you should find it, it's even referenced in the diysolar forum also.

You're welcome. Currently I'm cheating... I left the wires as is from the factory. I have not shortened them to fit the length to the 12V DC panel. I do have them each fused properly on the panel itself.

awesome!

Glad to help

I would imagine the motorcycle is the same power source as my battery if it's a 12V power source, however, being that I know nothing of motorcycles or what you are working on, please consult a professional if needed.

Indeed, a nice way to learn.

Hi. For me it was this th-cam.com/video/BNP1npa_LO4/w-d-xo.html but even still I have "some" rattle at highway speeds. I have another idea in mind I'll try and if it works I'll create another video. Nothing like a good brainstorm!

On which device in which part of the video? There are several places where 4/0 is used (120mm2 seems to be the correct conversion).

@@VanTransitions Multiplus 2 to Battery or Smartshunt

MPII is connected to the Lynx Distributor by 4/0 then via that bus system through the Lynx BMS 500 to the batteries, also using 4/0.

@@VanTransitions so its a 120 mm2 cable the 4/0 ?

All the googling I do, the conversion charts say 4/0 and 120mm2 are the correct conversion cable size.

12V DC. I haven't had any issues with my fan's control board. Some people have insisted on putting something in-line to ensure 12V DC. I think the company fixed the issue with newer boards and will send a replacement board if needed. Call them for details.

If I didn't explain it anywhere else, I didn't want to buy black for this one little spot in the build so I bent the rules a bit for myself b/c the copper inside is the same, and I used black shrink at the lugs to identify the neg. I don't recommend it necessarily, but it did save me some money and when traced by an expert, easily identified as on the negative with maybe a facepalm for the color.

@@VanTransitions sorry i have satellite data so it lowers the thing to 360p and doesn't show many comments i thought you were maybe wiring in series

Mine came from Amazon or were included in kits from Explorist.Life. None of them had any plastic on them; they were all copper only.

This has been an issue the ones that selterm sell are 1-1.1” the distributer is less than 1” wide.

​@@himesjon Can you just cut the lugs down to fit?

I'm not sure I would tamper with the integrity of the lug. Perhaps try a 90 degree lug coming in through the pill shaped hole? I haven't tried.

If you connected the main power and the control panel power correctly and it is not working, contact the distributor or manufacturer. Best of luck.

@@VanTransitions ​​⁠I’m so embarrassed, I’ve made probably tens of thousands of crimps in my lifetime… I brought a brand new hydraulic crimping tool for all these large lugs,I made sure I bought all the exact gauge wire they recommend all the proper lugs for that wire, with the proper holes for either the terminals on the distributor or the battery, shrink tubing… everything. Well on the positive cable I somehow accidentally grabbed the next size up of ring terminal and when I crimp it on and did my little pull test it seemed fine, so I put the red shrink tube collar on it and connected it to the distributor. At some point it must’ve pulled out when I was dressing my wires. I couldn’t see it because it was hidden by shrink tube. When trouble shooting I touched my meter to the lug which was getting 12V but the wire wasn’t lol

You're very welcome!

This is 10 series from 8020.net

Hi. You will need to know what voltage you are working with and use appropriate wires, switches, and outlets that meet your need.

Hi. What do you mean?

Glad you enjoyed it!

thanks for the feedback, hope you got it figured out, I love these lever nuts

Glad it helped!

I believe all mine came from the Explorist.life site.

I think you mean this part a.co/d/hs25Dfj and it was something like this, not this exact one, and I cut off the female end so I could have access to the wires (copper).

Good luck!

@@VanTransitions I did it, but it was a different situation :/ good luck

I appreciate the feedback. No superiority complex here. Just sharing my experiences. :)

Perhaps so, but when you're in the moment, you have to use what your brain gives you, haha! Sometimes there is only 1 good way, sometimes there are several ways.

You are referring to section 5.4.8 here www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Lynx_Smart_BMS/109358-Lynx_Smart_BMS-pdf-en.pdf which is perfectly fine. I didn't feel like cutting the ring terminals off, lazy I guess, haha! The MPII case ground is on the neg bus middle post of the Lynx Distributor. It is not one of the 4 fused posts on that bus.

In my case they are below the plane of the top of all my solar panels. It doesn't mean wind doesn't get to them, but I don't hear them at all. I do hear a noise created by the dynamics of sound resonance with the rear wheels between 63-71 mph. Once I put Thinsulate and heavy mass vinyl over the rear wheel wells, and get my walls up, I'll have a relatively quiet ride.

You're very welcome!

This is true, those holes are there, however, there is no flat surface on the roof around those holes to place the wire gland itself, not of this style anyway.

@@VanTransitions That's why you use Butyl Sealant Tape to even it out and level it.

Yes, that is an option. Please be mindful you are near the water channels on the roof and you don't want to disrupt that flow. Or, folks like Far Out Ride made a grommet special made for those holes, $50 last I checked so kind of expensive in my opinion.

You're welcome

Thanks!

In what way? Do you have a code reference?

How would an inspector even know lol?

I'm sorry I disagree. I mean, if you're stacking 3/4" to 1" of washers so the motor clears the wire I'd say that's unsafe. If you have a regular/standard seat, not the 10-way powered seat, you can install the Scopema, but I'd still be impressed if you could do it without modification to the plastic. Can you reference how you did this without cutting required? Keep in mind TH-cam won't let you paste a link in your comment so get creative.

I haven't used it very much, but it works so far. I can't compare it to other units, no experience with them.

Not in what you see here. I may add one in the future, and it's not a bad idea in case someone wants to try to mess with your electric system by accessing the exterior outlet.

Sounds great!

To get the correct roof adapter, DIYVan has offerings for different locations on the roof. Select the one which best fits your location. I'm sure they can help you get the correct one.

My fan is in the furthest forward spot on the Transit roof, btw. :) My RTX 2000 is in the furthest rear bay of an extended length Transit.

That is a good copy!!! Thanks​@@VanTransitions

​@@VanTransitionsohh good to know. You said that you have an RTX2000 A/C. Can you use it while the van is running or only with the battery bank? I asked you because I will install a 3 seats bench for my girls because I think the front A/C is not strong enought to get to the rear bench.

Thanks! I'm trying to make these instructional/useful. Entertainment is secondary, haha!

Thanks! Glad you like them!

With a Scopema swivel on a 10-way powered seat, as you can see in the video, you must lift the seat with risers to clear the seat motor, and it still requires the plastic to be trimmed. I have decided using risers is dangerous and not worth the risk. In the follow-up video I use an Amazing Auto swivel. It is thicker, clears the motor with no issue and you would still have to trim the plastic, though not as much. I have heard in non-powered seats, the plastic trim is much smaller so perhaps trimming is not needed on those? I do not know.

You're welcome. I left everything disconnected until the core electric system was installed in the van. Up to this point it had not been installed. I'm a bit behind on new content having been on a few trips mid build. Once the core system, including the solar disconnect switch, was in place between the panels and the MPPTs, I made the M4 connections on the roof. If the M4 connections were plugged in on the roof, there was a potential for shock if the panels weren't fully covered blocking the sun. Once the internal wires were connected to the solar disconnect, this was no longer a worry.

You can also see I covered the ends of the wires inside the van as an additional level of safety to prevent the copper pos and neg wires from touching each other.

My video is based on running a 12V system. Wire size requirements will be different if you are running 48V. If you want to ensure you are on the right path, please engage your Victron dealer or a certified electrician.

Wrong based on what set of facts and standards?

@@VanTransitionsI just ran the 4/0 through the 4 inch opening directly to the right of grounding opening.

This could work if you only have 1 pair of 4/0 for pos+ and neg- providing power to the MPII. If you are running 2 pair I imagine that hole is quite full? Also, did you add a 90 degree lug? That may be another way around the hole directly meant for the ground being too small for 4/0 going straight in.

The wire from the solar disconnect to the MPPT units is 10/2 ancor marine wire. There are no ring terminals used for the 10awg wires on either side of the solar disconnect.

10/3 refers to 10awg wire, 3 of them in the combined outer sheath. In the USA, this is hot, neutral, ground for 120V AC. 10/2 would contain 2 x 10awg wires, positive and negative, usually in a DC scenario.

@@VanTransitions tried to comment but it seems it was removed, maybe because I linked to Lowe’s. At any rate, 10/2 in America is most definitely 3 wires. Neutral, hot, and ground. This can be easily googled and is probably known by anyone before they even step foot in electrician school.

TH-cam removes links from commenters by default, not within my control, part of their spam prevention I believe. Here is some 12/2 I use for some of my 12V DC loads. It is definitely 2 wire of 12awg within the same sheath. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NUYBU2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_QM9XP37H7VK89FSADRDT and here is some 12/3 www.amazon.com/dp/B000NV2AVS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_493MDXT1YJ1VXRN6SSH7

You may be thinking of romex? Which contains solid wires and the additional bare copper for ground. Romex is NOT recommended in a van (which is a moving earthquake), only stranded.

@@VanTransitions after a little more googling, it seems marine grade wiring is different than residental. residental romex 12/2 includes a ground, but your ancor marine wire does not. interesting indeed.

In my van based system, my chassis ground is 4/0 matching the largest wires in my system. 6awg seems small, but I don't know the size of your system and I'm not an electrical engineer. If your components are Victron, work with your distributor, or consult an electrician.

@@VanTransitionsthank you