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Every tuned vehicle in my videos has all the maximum parts attached, widebody, highest letter aero parts and roll cage, etc. unless specifically stated otherwise. Wheels are usually kept at factory sizing, if made larger only 1-2 inches max. Most other parts in GT Auto do not have an impact on performance as far as i am aware .

Thank you for commenting, When WTC 600 is suggested for grinding I see many complaints about the Clean Race Bonus being "too easy to lose", so I figured explaining the rules and giving a play by play track guide would be beneficial for those struggling to grind this race, as most of the time people just say use "x" car and that is all. Without knowing the rules and limitations it can be frustrating to try and figure it all out on the fly, but there is a method to the madness, lol. Once we know what is what its all child's play from there, and 22 minutes later 825k credits in the bank ;) Hope the video helps you make credits faster on GT7.

Thanks for the feedback, Sorry to hear that the tune did not work out for you, I tested it again just now and it seems to be working fine for me. Even did a lap at Nürburgring Nordschleife and clocked a 6:12. Something to keep in mind is that this is not a "The fastest LP Lambo Tune" video, this is a very basic Tuning Method to "make almost any car driveable again" post 1.49 update. In particular for those that don't know how to tune, and just want to be able to drive their favorite road cars on GT7 once again. If the vehicle no longer "has a mind of its own", spears off the track randomly, jumps around on the track, etc. then the tune has been successful.

Thanks for the comment, The swapped 32 GTR has been my go to money maker since the swap was introduced in GT7. I was surprised to see that not that many people are using it or discussing this combo as one of the fastest ways to grind credits. Hopefully it helps GT7 players make bank and collect their favorite vehicles :)

do a skid bruv

Thanks for the comment mate, The Clean Race Bonus rules vary from race to race, what is outlined in the video is specific to the Tokyo WTC 600. At the Spa 1hr event, passing under yellow flag conditions will cause a loss of the clean race bonus.

@ good to know, sorry for the ignorance. i’ve only recently picked up the game last month (8k mile rookie coming from F1) still a lot to learn

No worries mate, most peoples complaint about the Tokyo WTC 600 is that the Clean Race Bonus is too easy to lose, so they miss out on making the maximum credits per race on GT7. This race and method is the fastest way I am aware of to earn credits on GT7 (1.52) currently. Though i am happy to be proven wrong, mainly so i can start using that method to make even more credits, lol.

@ right, it’s so tedious to make credits, thought i guess if it were any easier the economy would shit itself. if everybody could get everything then it wouldn’t be worth it right, atleast that’s what i tell myself every time i run le mans 30 minute back to back to back to back

I think they make it too hard to earn credits, it is a very slow grind process compared to other GT titles, especially after completing the game 100% and platinumed. I believe it is to drive people to "buy" credits in the store. Give the WTC Tokyo 600 (Using the method described in video) a go back to back to back , might take a couple races to get it down , but the rewards after are well worth it once you master it.

Thank you for commenting. I dont have VR, sounds interesting. How does the bottoming out present visually in VR?

Hi mate, thanks for your comment. When driving an Alfa Romeo 8c in factory trim, while heavy braking the rear end of the vehicle can slide out. If the rear steps out in the opposite "turn in" direction than the corner approaching, when the brakes are released the vehicle will grip and "snap back" in the direction the wheels are facing/pointing. This unwanted and unplanned action imitates the "Turn away from the corner, then sharply back into the corner" vehicle movement we see in a Scandinavian Flick. If the rear steps out the same way as the "turn in" direction , the result is we must control an unwanted drift through the corner. This issue is resolved in the tune provided within the video and is only relevant when driving a factory 8c, such as in time trials or in races where vehicle modification is not allowed.

Thanks for the support mate, glad to see these vids are helping the GT community :)

We do what we can with what we have, but any upgrades to our tools are always welcomed. Here's to hoping the updates give us something, but I'm noy holding my breath, lol.

The Nordschleife can present a tough tuning challenge for many vehicles on GT7, this is why it is part of my "Universal Base Tune (UBT)" process when building cars, see video of same name. th-cam.com/video/iavqdIg8Lz8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OJ_j8yQRZzLgtkWV There is also a number of glitches which can occur especially with the Gallardo and BMW M3 97, where settings are not "stored" even if they read as being different on the settings sheet. Take detailed screenshots of your settings, then uninstall and reinstall the Suspension, Differential and Gearbox and input the settings again. This sometimes rectifies what I have dubbed "sticky settings" on GT7. I will be making a more detailed video about this in the future, hope it helps.

@@JGTCR thanks brother will try it tomorrow. 🫡

Hey mate, thanks for the comment. Sheet 1 is already saved, what is being suggested is to not modify it but duplicate it to create "new tunes" to then save. When creating a new tune sheet, all bolt non permanent performance parts (e.g turbo, intercooler, etc.) must be reselected on the new settings sheet. This is a time consuming task that takes away from our drive time, especially when creating multiple tunes per car on ever growing list of GT7 vehicles. As stated in the video it is "housekeeping" and something I do to keep things tidy, quick and easy for my tuning needs, hopefully it helps others looking to streamline their tuning process on GT7.

Do a skid bruv, lol

Hey mate, thanks for the support. I also learned in real world settings building a good number race, drift and show cars in a workshop environment. I find the concepts of real world motorsports transfers to GT7, however some things get lost in "translation" and even end up backwards in game sometimes. Yeah I have added new tune sheets after messing up my tunes in the past and absolutely detest the process of needing to add all the non permanent components again. Quite a few times I have also accidently skipped adding parts in the process and only find out later post tune, which calls for a retune in my books. This is the main reason i mention it, to save others from wasting their driving time like I have, lol.

@@JGTCR Right On, boss! Absolutely 🍻👊!!

@@JGTCR I got ya, same reasons I usually use “Duplicate Sheet” when I’ve already got a Known *good tune* before I start trying tweak it some more to find any last bit of performance I may have missed, lol. And use “Add Sheet” a fresh Stock tuning sheet. CHEERS 👊!!

I have lost many a good tune due to wanting to tweak it just a little bit more only to have the whole thing blow up. I tend to end up with a big list of tunes labeled something like "copy: copy: copy: Race Tune 1.52" I usually cull the herd after 3-4 replications, but the process works and helps create better tunes, end of the day that's all that matters.

Thanks for the support mate, the Integra type R will have its day... its days are numbered, lol. are you more interested in the stock or swapped version of the tune?

Thanks for the comment mate, Yeah there are definitely a number of changes which would be made if this were to be a legit "final" tune for my own vehicle, Tuning is very subjective based on driver, driving style, vehicle, etc. so once you know what your doing tune wise, there is no real "right way" its more what is right for you. This video is more a "general tune method" for all those undrivable cars out there post 1.49, specifically for people who aren't into tuning and just want to be able to drive their favorite cars again without spearing off the track.

@@JGTCR You are right. There is no right way. It always depends on what you feel most confident on the track with!

Hopefully the video has helped get your Lambo LP under control again, and don't forget that the method is transferable to most road vehicles should they begin to perform poorly after upgrading them :)

Thanks for the support mate, first video in the series out tomorrow.

No problem, glad it helped :)

let me know how it works out for you.

At 7:10 of the video it covers the top speed adjustment and highlights the setting to adjust. After testing the default setting for a baseline of top speed, you can add 60-100 kmph at a time and test again. If you get a higher top speed keep adding until top speed decreases, then reduce top speed by 10-20kmph until you hit your sweet spot. Hope this helps :)

@JGTCR I was thinking more of a vid.. 5 minutes long maybe!! That just focuses on how to attain top speed for any car. Don't understand the adjustments

That's frigging Gold. 😂 George Peterson was name

we all gotta sound like something, could have been worse, happy enough to not sound like Yoko singing, lol :P

If you play around with the settings enough you can get the vehicles to do some fun and wacky things, cant say I have dabbled in wheelie builds. not intentionally at least (Abarth 595) lol.

Thanks for the comment, glad to hear you liked the video, hopefully it helps your GT7 journey.

Thanks for commenting, The method outlined in the video should work on most road vehicles if the issue is bottoming out suspension/body and captive wheels. If you are game, make a separate tune sheet and try it out on your C8. Its good practice to watch the replay and at the point of spinning out, pause, then use the "walk around" feature in the camera mode to get a good look at what the issue may be. Then you cant try tackle the problem in the tune sheet. I will be doing some vehicle specific tune videos for race and drift in the future, however, tuning is subjective based on driving style and the vehicle itself (among other factors). So what works for me may not for you and vice versa, but im happy to share, and if it helps even one person fix their set up then its a win in my book :)

@@JGTCR I've just been busy retuning all my other cars but the mid engine cars are harder for me to figure out what they really want for keeping 1000+HP on the track. (I do drive like I'm trying to break the car though...)

What we need is the C8R…and updated GT3 cars.

@@kevinmoss5538 even the new zo6 because the weight change from that 6.2 cross plane crank to the 5.5L flat plane with more power and less torque

Thanks for the words of encouragement mate, have a few vid concepts cooking at the moment so watch this space :)

U can see the stance after u tune look at in the garage

Thanks for watching and the comment, This video is an "easy fix patch tune" for those who add all the top end parts then end up with an undrivable car and don't know why. It is by no means a finalised pro tune, it is merely a way to help those who don't know how to tune get their favorite vehicles up and running once again with an easy "cut and paste" method.

Thanks for the comment, It really depends on what you are trying to achieve, the GT wings look horrible on some vehicles but they are necessary for rear downforce, especially with big power applications. It really is all about the tune settings when installing every "best part" in the tune shop.

Lambo wheel babies are notoriously expensive to raise, lol.