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Hello, I did not weight it when it was down to the frame with no axle, if I had to guess I would say around 300 pounds give or take, I had no problem flipping it over you moving it around by myself

In Ohio we have an EPA emission check/test referred to as "E-Check", Not sure how that compares to your States 'inspection" ? We drive in, they plug into the OBD run a scan, or we can self test plug in and run our own test. No CEL everything passes no issues. Only other emission "mod" if you want to call it that... This Beetle has the K&N air filter OEM style not cone style. No CEL have had no problem passing the Ohio E-Check... Hope that helps

Sorry for the slow reply, Yes I always check it at operating temp and running, The dip stick on my 2008 G35x has a "Hot" side and a "Cold" side, One side of the dip stick says Hot on the other side it says Cold, meaning if I check it cold I would read the cold side of the stick, if I check it hot I read the hot side of the stick .. I always do it hot and running, Hope that helps.

Yes that is how I check it, warmed to operating temp and running

Thanks for the reply, FYI when you remove the bolt the harmonic balancer falls right off in your hand

Yes, fit to the cat in the fron no problem and fit the OEM 'style" muffler no problem used the OEM hangers

Thank you

Thank you, I made that out of a cereal box ' card board form '' - covered in fiberglass.. Hope it helps th-cam.com/video/BvNYdrmV0JQ/w-d-xo.html

Just an average 2.0L - 8 Valve no tune, it does have a K&N air filter nothing special square OEM style K&N Filter in the OEM box

OEM style nothing performance or anything.. just an OEM style muffler. the front hangers on the pipe lines up yes

Thanks for the reply, the hoist support is needed "per Bentley" the engine can drop enough when the sub frame is released to possibly stretch hoses, wires, Turbo/fuel lines from the body. Kept everything in place made the job easier putting the sub frame back in. Better safe than sorry I guess. Bentley refers to the VW hoist @ about $1,200.00 VW Engine Support Set: #10-222B. 2x4's worked

Just realised the guards you're using are plastic. So that's why you're not trying to weld steel to them....

Hello Dave, thanks for asking, I have mocked up a several different fenders, including some steel .. 69 Beetle, 74 Super Beetle, Some old 70-ish Beetle Baja fiberglass fenders, Ford Ranger fiberglass step side bed fenders. I could of pry made any of them work, but all of them had something a little off in the contour compared to the 98 Beetle.. For example the older steel Beetle fenders was much smaller in height to the 98 Beetle fenders, and the wheel arch radius was smaller, when and on the 'truck' they looked much smaller thinner compared to the front fenders, the Ford Ranger fenders just looked to square / boxy. Also the 98 has all the EVAP canister and sending units still intact behind the passenger rear fender "this posed a problem with fender fitting. Using the OEM 98 Beetle fenders had the most advantages in my opinion they looked the best same contours as the front, And I never altered the plastic inner Fender Splash Shield so the OEM fenders would still bolt on, putting it right in place, I just had to splice them to reach, the bed sides are fiberglass, tailgate and bumper skin fiberglass just made sense the fenders be the same, fit right over the EVAP system on the passenger side no issues

@@rokmoto67 thanks for the run-down on your reasoning. I can see why you have gone the way you have, I think I would have done the same. Lots of good reasons to use the ones you did. Thanks again, hope it goes well.

Thank you

Sorry for the slow reply, This is my brothers Beetle I do the work on it. He sent the ECM out to an electronics place for testing/repair they concluded the chip was dead, it was getting power the board was powering up but the chip was dead on the board non-repairable. They also sold ECM's since they had his they matched it up to a PLUG & PLAY IMMOBILIZER Delete/Unlocked ECM same numbers. my brother bought it I plugged it in started right up he is still driving this Beetle today. Everything works as it should all power, alarm, ODB II, hook a VAGCOM up everything is as it should be, if I remember correctly he had to give them his VIN and they flashed the ECM with his VIN or something to make it plug and play to "his car"... I hope that helps

I am not 100% sure but for some reason I am thinking 22mm... maybe 24mm

Thanks 🙏

You are welcome, I hope it helps, Sorry I have not updated this project, the insert I made attached the the fender very good, currently done in primer, I need to paint it and get it on the car .. here is the insert lined up and attached to the fender before I did the body work th-cam.com/video/PNl-mQsGq6o/w-d-xo.html&t

Hello again, here is the latest video on this project, completed painted ready to go on the car, Hope it helps th-cam.com/video/QFM-brJwGEs/w-d-xo.html

A coil or more is missing off the spring because it broke

I only had the test pipes on for a couple of months while I found the right converters. for the time they was on the car I had no problem with them

I’m trying to figure out same thing . I suspected that I was low on fluid checked dipstick and it definitely is confusing I’m between the two notches as u said . But I’m wondering does it need to be in the hashed area. I have an 08g35x

Mine has the hash marks for low and full, one side of my dip stick says "HOT" the other side says "COLD" if I read it Hot/Warm I read the Hot side of the stick .. if I read it Cold I read the Cold side of the stick.. I hope that makes sense... My dip stick is difficult to read because it is black in color but the markings are on both sides of the stick.. "similar to the oil dip stick markings

mine has "full /////////////// add" on the stick.

Mine has a rubber like stopper/seal in the top cap area of the stick, that does hit the tube before it is all the way in.. I push it all the way in till it stops then pull it out to check

Very happy, So far it has outlasted the prior Stillen exhaust I had the G, Stillen exhaust was loud echoed in the cab and it stress cracked in several places lasted about 3 years till I stopped welding the cracks and replaced it, this Manzo exhaust has been on the G about 5 years 50K+ miles, I bottomed out on the flex pipe once and cracked it, that was a road hazard, but other than that this has been a great exhaust .. I would buy it again

There are two "speed sensors" this video shows the ( G68 Vehicle Speed Sensor ) which I am replacing, and G38 Gearbox Speed Sensor is next to the G68, would also be removed this way. if you go to 4:27 on the video there is a still of the two sensors, this video cover the G68 but the G38 is right next to it. Hope that helps.

Hello, purchased at www.hottexhaust.com It is the Magnaflow stainless Converter and also Magnaflow stainless Cat Back, At the time of purchase they offered two different finishes one was a flat metal stainless the other was a high polished stainless "same pipe" other than one was polished and cost more, this is the lesser non polished system the only piece polished is the muffler. This is on my brothers daily driver, still holding up good " looking at the video " I installed it back in 2019

Thank you ao much haha

All highway miles on this car, nice smooth roads

I am not sure on a 2005 1.4, is it a Beetle or something EU JETTA, Golf, Polo, Fox ? I am in the U.S., the 1.4 TSI "if I am correct" was not introduced here till 2015, JETTA/Golf/Beetles prior to 2015 petrol here are 2.0L / 1.8T / 2.5L at least any I have encountered. What is it I can see if maybe something in Bentley covers it

@@rokmoto67 yes its a vw beetle im in the uk