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Very important reminder for the essentials of photography. My favorite light is natural light but when that’s not available or doesn’t work with the scene I’m going for, I love to use off camera flash or sometimes constant light, for lens i don’t really have a favorite, mostly what i can afford haha. Great video

Thankssss for your video❤❤❤😊

Fantastic camera bravooooo❤❤❤😊

Please remove this misleading video. There is no need to grind anything. Justt a drop of oil is all that is required. The Spotmatic is a beautifully designed and made camera. Nothing needs grinding.

The "flaw" is the fact that the camera hasn't been serviced in 50 years.

Looks like you've been to World of Potatoes again...

Congrats on this milestone man!

Thanks for stopping by! The Leica M3 is an incredible camera!

Awesome! Thanks!

So cool! I'm based in Indy and love Roberts, Bru Burger, and Kaffeine Coffee.

Your video popped up on my front page and I'm glad it did. I work at Roberts, so from all of us there...Thanks you so much for stopping by and for the shout out! Great video!

Robert's camera is such a great store. I get all my film developed and scanned there. Renting equipment from them is also a good deal.

Leica is the best brand for blind people. They're making a great labour empowering blind people and idiots elsewhere

Oh.

The Leica M3 is indeed beautiful and had fun on this trip. Let's do more! And oh thanks for featuring and my ZARA shoes haha 😂

This is the only mechanical issue I have had with Spotmatic bodies.

NEVER do this. It's a lubrication issue nothing more. Never Bend file or alter this component. Just apply a tiny amount watch oil to the mirror return gears and bushes below this arm he is bending.

cant see where the software is counting the frames?

To be honest, I’ve got about eight Spotmatics of different models, your better off slightly bending one of the sprung wires that feed the levers!

Great video. I used this method and found that it helped but would still catch occasionally. I fixed the issue by ever so slightly bending the black component that the arm grabs onto. If holding the camera as if you taking a shot, I bent it towards the right (if that makes sense). Seems to be doing the trick.

Hi, Dave! Thanks for your video! I know it's been a LONG time since you posted this video, but I need some help... I need to figure out how to trigger my camera remotely when I use flash from a position some distance from my tripod-mounted camera. I DO have an Olympus M5 mark II, the X1 receiver/transmitter, a 685 flash like yours, and a cheap-but-great Neewer speedlite. What I have been doing is putting the 685 on the camera (in wifi transmit mode) and locating the X1 - as a receiver - connected to the the speedlight to a remote background loacation, and it works perfectly when I physically press the shutter button on the camera. I do real estate photography and this is great to light up rooms in the the background, which would otherwise be dark. BUT NOW it would be great if the camera was mounted on a tripod with the 685 on top, ready to go, with me holding a speedlight with the X1 OR a second 685 in a distant location while I somehow trigger the camera shutter from some distance away. Maybe that's clear as mud, but I just want to trigger the camera remotely and have both flashes work as they do now. Is that even possible? Sorry to be so wordy, but I've been trying to figure this out for quite a while. Thanks for your time and for this video. Subscribed! PS: You may have figured out that I want to try something called the "flambient" technique of real estate photography, but simply don't know how to trigger my camera using anything other than my finger on the shutter button - Ha!

Rangefinders are certainly not the best tool for macro and tele-landscape shorts. You want a SLR for that. Once you go bigger than 6x6, sadly SLR felt very heavy. Anyway, assuming shooting in 35mm, another viable option is Olympus OM system. Heck, they are physically smaller than typical Leica M kit, and much cheaper 😬

Voigtlander make incredible lenses. Absolutely no reason not to go the voigtlander route, they have lenses that outperform their Leica counterparts.

Got my M3 on a trade. I bought a Voigtlander 40mm as a stop gap before I could get a proper 50. I love what the 40 can give me and I see no reason to hunt for a 50. I would say with the trade and lens the system cost me about $750ish. I do like the simplicity and would love a digital M one day. I do agree, maybe get a lens first and adapt to your existing system if you can. I did pickup a older Fuji and I love what the 40 gives me when adapted.

I think in the past Id have agreed, with film bodies especially. Some of the voigtlanders today are as good as anything though. The real issue is buying before you have the means to get what you really want. You will be buying those things. It's just a question of how much money will you waste for denying your own nature. I also think that irrespective of price Leica M cameras are not for most photographers and it's not about skill it's just that many folks will want something more transparent to the process. If you just want to focus on the photos themselves a rangefinder is maybe not the best choice. If you like process as much as or even more than results that's when the system makes sense IMO

Sound advice

Lets say hypothetically you lost the e clip that you have to take off. Where would you get a new one?

Hey, I have this one! :-). Don't think I've watched a video on one.

Looks like a nice stable, sturdy option - Good tip!

That is awesome, thanks for sharing, might have to get one. However the shaking and wable is caused by drinking way too much coffee

Fibrenyte is lighter and more resistant to weathering over time than normal canvas

Thank you Dave! You provided the answer of my Ricoh GXR hotshoe issue!!

one tip, Arca Swiss call this asymmetric tilt a "micro-metric Orbix control"; but Chamonix gives you a dashed line on the GG to show you where the pivot is, so you can align your objects that you are focussing on to.

If you think that Japanese engineers were so dumb that produced 5 000 000! of Spotmatics with faulty lever, just grind it. If not, take down the bottom of the camera, take it on the table by back, fill the syringe with needle with isopropyl alcohol and carefuly clean the wheels above the lever and all the mechanism, then cock it, shoot few times and repeat cleaning several times. let it dry, then use blower to clean it from free residues. when dry, take another syringe with fine needle, fill it with clock oil (or other oil for fine mechanisms), and take drop on every axle. do not overdose it. Take the bottom back and enjoy your Spotmatic. Why this happens - camera is 50y or more old, the original lubrication is dried, plus usually the sponge from the mirror is old and small pieces of it are all over the camera like dust. Together with the old lubrication it sticks the wheels, they move hardly with unsufficient energy to kick down the lever. PLEASE DONT GRIND THE CAMERAS, AND DONT LUBE THEM WITH WD40 AND ANOTHER CRAP, YOU ARE KILLING THE CAMERAS

uncle fester

Great tips for someone starting out with vintage manual lenses…..thanks heaps!!!

Will this work on canon 250d? since those unit doesn’t have a middle contact pin

Terrible video!

I got 2 of the 225 models and i paid for the first 225 model £70.00 classic colour back in 2018 and I recently brought another on the 13/2/24 £40.00 i paid for it from a car boot sale and is in first class condition and not been used at all

fyi, in addition to my earlier comment, at 7:14 this "triple extension" , from research is quite literally the max the camera can take, aka a "triple extension camera" can only extend far enough for a 3x normal focal length for the format (3x150 or 450mm lens), excluding, of coarse the wide and TELE lenses (who's infinity distance is NOT at focal length); it is just the standard lens designs we are discussing here.

Hi thanks for the video . There are two version modals which i found in the web. JJC-9 and JJC-8. Which one should i get for off and on flash trigger ?

I bought my Ftb in 1970 so the must have been making it prior to 71. I know it was in 70 because I took pictures with it on my honeymoon in Quebe, I was married in August of 1970.

This company really needs to sponsor you so we can have that discount code. Haha great review Dave!

I was gifted a C-2 recently. From other videos, I believe it was made in 1940. I have also referred to it as a manual version of a manual camera. These are so different and fun to use. They really do make the photographer THINK! There is no "shooting on auto pilot" with these. Better brush up on "sunny 16" rule!

Beautiful video lesson..thx y...

first things first - leica M are not SLRs... not everyone wants a rangefinder.

The Argus C3 was my first ever camera, and boy, there is a reason they call it a brick. Its awful. The only argument to use the damn thing is that it takes effort, but as someome who now shoots a minolta x-700, its so much more work for such a poor result by compariso. I of course am a hypocrite, because i have poured plenty of money into my C3 and still use it. But using it is to do so purely for its aesthetic, not because it is anything remotely good. You could probably get a higher quality image from a Holga camera.

fuck NO

Hi, what are the dimensions i.e. when it's in the bag? I have on coming and am looking for a case to hold it and other equipment. Great video.

His idiot!!!