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@Praytocanti Scroll down to the Non-Affiliate links. I found the exact brand caster kit at a local HD. Hopefully you have one of those around you. Let us know how it goes.

You're very welcome. Glad this helped ya out.

Thank you. It means a lot, and glad it was helpful for you.

Super welcome! Glad it was helpful.

After looking at a 2023, it does look to be the same process. The part number for that generation seems to be: Lift Gate Switch - Nissan (25380-5AA0A) but type in your VIN number on the nissan parts website to double check.

For a 2014 Ford Explorer, here’s how to locate and operate the manual sunroof closure: 1) Locate the Sunroof Motor: Located where I showed you in the video. Carefully pry off the plastic cover to access the motor. 2) Insert the Crank Tool: Inside the toolkit (typically found in the spare tire compartment), there may be a hex or Allen wrench for this purpose. If not, a similar-sized Allen wrench (check if it fits snugly) should work. Look for a small socket on the motor where this tool can fit. 3) Turn to Close: Insert the tool and turn it clockwise to manually close the sunroof. This may take a few rotations depending on how far the sunroof is open. 4) Replace the Cover: Once the sunroof is closed, put the plastic cover back over the motor.

Wish ya luck! Let us know what happens bro!

You're very welcome. Glad it was helpful!

Completed replacement today. Thanks

@@rickc9873 That's awesome, congrats! Quick and easy like in the video?

Exactly!

@@MarkLevack Thanks bud. Appreciate it. Wish all my content was like that. 🤣

@@toddthebod22 you're very welcome! Yea, sometimes they can be tricky. Sorry you had to go through that. Sux... let us know how it goes though.

@@mslateshashaw Thank you!

If the vent sounds/looks like it wants to move, it may be more than just the motor. Could be an alignment issue or something blocking the tracks. You could try an initialization and see if it "resets" it. See the process below. Since the vent doesn't move, you could skip the 2nd step and see if it'll still initialize with the other steps. If you have to end up replacing the motor, you can also use the steps below. For the 2023 Ford Explorer ST, after replacing the sunroof motor, it's important to follow a specific initialization process to ensure proper function. The newer models often have more advanced systems that might require additional calibration steps. Here's the process for resetting the sunroof motor on the 2023 Ford Explorer ST: Sunroof Motor Initialization Steps for the 2023 Ford Explorer ST: (1) Turn the Ignition to "On": Ensure the vehicle's ignition is in the "On" position but do not start the engine. (2) Ensure the Sunroof is in the Closed Position: If the sunroof is partially open or stuck in a different position, manually press the Close button to bring it to the fully closed position. (3) Press and Hold the Sunroof Close Button: Once the sunroof is fully closed, press and hold the Close button for 20 seconds. The sunroof should start moving, tilt, or perform minor adjustments. Keep holding the button until the sunroof completes these movements and stops. (4) Release and Test the Sunroof: After the sunroof completes its reset movements (usually tilting up and down or sliding), release the button. Now, test the sunroof's operation by fully opening and closing it. Make sure both tilt and sliding functions are working properly. (5) Perform a Full Cycle: Press the Open button to fully open the sunroof and then press Close to bring it back to the closed position. This confirms the initialization has been completed. ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS for the 2023 ST Model: (1) Advanced Calibration: The 2023 Explorer ST may have anti-pinch and other safety features built into the sunroof. If the manual reset procedure does not work or if there are any error messages, it may require a diagnostic tool, such as Ford's Integrated Diagnostic Software (IDS), to complete the initialization process. (2) Professional Assistance: If you encounter issues after attempting the initialization process, it’s recommended to visit a dealership or professional service center, as they can recalibrate the system using specialized tools. This process ensures the sunroof motor knows its open and closed limits, restoring normal operation after a motor replacement.

Thanks! I'll ask my nephew if we need to change out anything else on it. He still has his trusty Versa. :)

My pleasure! Thanks.

Thanks! Glad it was helpful and it was my pleasure!

I'm not sure which button you mean.

@@EverythingInBetween22 On our 2011 Murano there is a button on the outside of the hatch and one on the inside. Push the inside button and it lowers the hatch. Our inside button quit working. You don’t have to go out of your way. I was just venting because there seems to be almost no information on the inside button anywhere. 😎

@@TheoneGodfather Ahh I gotcha... I'll check it out.

OEM was around $180 but that was 2 years ago. They are more like $240 now, sadly. There are some online that are currently around $60, if you really want to save some money, but I can't guarantee it will fully work. Check this one out. The tilt may not work but for the price, you should be ok with that: amzn.to/3ZQ7zyZ

Thanks for your perspective. I'm sure it'll help others as well. I wanna go back in time and use the pick tool lol. I bet that would have made clean work of it.

@@EverythingInBetween22 Live and learn! We learned through your mistake (not really a mistake, your repair was fine) so thank you for that!

Glad to have helped. Go Texans!!!

Yes, that is the harness clip. You can use a universal harness strap. We have the one in the link below. Maybe it'll work for you also. amzn.to/3XXWB9a

Yea, so far they have been working great. No issues and no complaints. Hopefully they can last a few more years. This murano is almost at the end of its life. lol

It's pretty easy. I hope it's the same for you. Good luck!

So glad this helped you. My pleasure!

Thanks for that. I know some of my content, especially the earlier ones, is a little hard to sit through. I used an editing program that crashed a lot and editing was frustrating. If I do this one again, I'll definitely make it a lot shorter.

Thanks! Glad it's helping others.

We sold the Stang shortly after this vid, but we know the person and keep tabs on it from time to time and she is doing well. lol

Thanks! And yes, the same mower and 2 batteries are still in service since Day 1. I had purchased a 2nd battery shortly after.

You're very welcome. Glad it helped ya.

You're welcome. Glad it helped.

It wasn't, until I noticed the vents were dirty AF, so decided to show that process. I'm trying to do better on videos and appreciate the comment.

Do you know how to remove the front panel from the unit? There looks to be some kind if build up on the blower on mine and removing that panel would allow me access to said problem!?

When you say New alternator, is it really new (should say New on the box) or is it Remanufactured/Reconditioned? Sounds like when you slow down or idle, the alternator is not charging the battery, but when you drive higher speeds, the RPMs are enough for alternator to charge the battery. Sometimes, those remanufactured/reconditioned alternators can have bad voltage regulators and not supply the correct voltage. If you know (or think) it could be a Remanufactured alternator, then I would try and get a Brand New alternator. If you have a Brand New alternator, then it could possibly be a grounding issue.

@@EverythingInBetween22 i appreciate you thank you I will look into it

@@EverythingInBetween22 yes it is new from oreilly

@@rayalatravels Yes, places like AutoZone and O'Reilly's use Remanufactured/Reconditioned alternators, so be careful. Ask them if it is "NEW" and not remanufactured/reconditioned. If it is definitely New, then it could be a grounding issue or has a rare bad voltage regulator. I can't think of anything else. Let us know what you find out.

Nice! Glad it helped you out! You're very welcome.

Secure the brackets?... Are you talking about the 4 corner Post Couplers at the @11:22 mark? If I really wanted to permanently hold the top and bottom halves together, I would drill a hole through the post and coupler and use a bolt and lock nut.... Also, the shelves hold 800lbs each. You need more support than that? You would probably need to weld steel flat bar going across diagonally, under each shelf, if that's the case.

I just mean the notches on each metal beam that lock down into the holes. I want to make sure those don't ever pop out and I know how much the shelves claim to hold, but still worried about it bowing in the middle over time. I am converting this unit into a display case for expensive collectibles hence the extra care.

Any links on how to do that bolt and lock system. I am not extremely handy in those regards, so I don't have a frame of reference to know exactly what you mean. Thank you for responding

@@Bransonization I will go buy a bolt and lock nut setup and make a video on how you can prevent the shelves from popping out. Will try and upload it this weekend for ya... As for beefing up the shelf strength, you can keep it simple and add 3/4" plywood, and if the calculations are correct, the plywood itself, per 2'x4' shelf, can support an estimated total load of around 2,200 pounds before noticeable bowing occurs when supported 1/4 inches in from all four edges. Just remember, no matter how much you strengthen the shelf, its weight limits start with the round pieces that slide into the notches. You can beef up your shelf to hold 2,000lbs but if those round pieces that slide into the notches are only rated to hold max 1,000lbs, they will break well before the shelf decides to bow.... Stay tuned!

I won't be exceeding the limits listed on the unit, but just want to make sure the circular pieces on the frame don't come out of the notches. Weight limit will be worthless when that happens. I thought about a support beam under the wood shelf but not sure the best route.

I believe it's a Duralast. It's my son's digital torque wrench, but the link is in the description that goes straight to it. The last link at bottom.... and thanks! Hope it helped you.

@@EverythingInBetween22yes thank you my friend

El enlace está en la descripción. Gracias!

Glad it helped you out. Thanks.

Sorry bud, we don't have this 2014 anymore or I could make a video and show ya a few things to look at. Go check out: www.youtube.com/@SealofPerfection Good place for sunroof repairs/replacements. Check their videos and maybe ask them in the comments. Let us know how it goes.

​@@EverythingInBetween22thanks!!!

@@jayhuff239 Thanks, and I concur! Upholstery shop is the best bet. May cost a lil more, but I believe it's worth it. The DIY mindset got the better of me on this project. 😆

@@RobertTaylortaytorhead Mid-October will be 3 years. I will make an update video at that time. Stay tuned! And that sux! I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. Sorry to hear that.

@@James.__. Thank you for that new perspective.

that is a known issue with them. I can't remember what the smell is but it is something like refrigerant leaking. Read reviews for unit on Home Depot.

Yea, if it's only been a couple months and there's a smell coming from the vents, then I doubt it is mold/bacteria. There's something else going on with your unit. I would call the MFG because you're well within the warranty to get a new unit if it has a refrigerant leak.

@@juniortavares8939 I do not use the heating mode. We are in Texas and it's always hot over here, so we don't use heaters 😆

@@moonalisah Sure! I've done it several times.

Thanks for responding! I tried charging to 3 dots and it didn’t last very long. I use one 40/80 for my mower and weed whacker. Got too hot today so back at it tomorrow after fully charged.

@@moonalisah I know they aren't cheap but sounds like you need a 2nd battery. Either that or get the rapid charger instead of 2 batteries... but that's weird. 3 bars usually lasts me a while.

I agree, going to look into second battery, it takes sooo long to charge completely 😅

@@moonalisah Yup! The standard charger takes almost 2hrs to charge from 0% to 90% but the Rapid Charger takes around 45min to charge from 0% to 90%, for the 40V/80V 5Ah/2.5Ah battery. A lot faster! A second battery prevents me from needing the rapid charger, but there were two times where I forgot to charge a battery after doing the yard and it was left with 2 bars. Needless to say, I had to finish the yard the next day. If you wanna save some money, instead of buying a new battery, buy the rapid charger (around $20 more) and put the standard battery on the marketplace for $25. I'm sure someone would take you up on that deal. :) Just a thought. Just keep in mind, that if you only have one battery, and even though you have the rapid charger... that if it's a HOT day and the battery is HOT, it will not charge until it has cooled down, and that can take 30 minutes or so, depending on how hot it got.