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Thanks 👍

Sorry, no mate. Takes far too much time for me without CNC tools ect...and the plastic is expensive. It would end up costing more than a commercially made one, with no warranty 😄

Thanks 🙂

Thanks, 🙂 I think they are better matched than the ET100 V's MA100 as they have a very similar wattage. The ET100 would probably spank an MA100 but the ET100 has a higher actual wattage. The chinese brands like Jecod do a have a slight habit of over rating things 😄

Thanks 👍

Thanks mate 👍

Happy to help with any questions you've got if i can mate. 👍

@@DavesKoiPond thanks

The parts lists I used are in the video's description 🙂 But to be fair I wouldn't reccomend running recycle RO if you are new to keeping a pond. Recycle RO is not for everyone, and not a fit and forget solution and constant monitoring and knowledge are needed. But If you want a system built I would reccomend finch filtration, he leads the way in recycle RO. Plus he would be able to design and install a system for your particular pond, and set it all up for you 👍

Thanks 👍 The Dechlorinators and Recycle RO I put together. The design for them is pretty straight forward, Finchy has been producing them for a while. you can design you own system based on the booster pumps LPH at a certain pressure matched to the membrane. and also match the membranes permeate and concentrate throughput to that.

Thanks, 🙂 Just want some warmer weather to get back outside and enjoy it more 😄

Thanks, 👍 I'm trying to remember now... The plastic sheet and 40 x 40 square tube was about £300 delivered but the welding rod and welder I had from my previous bio build. plus a few bits and bobs for the air line. at about £20... Welding isn't difficult if you are capable at wood work, and can build things from scratch. But you do need to practise on scrap pieces if you've never done it before. I made my pond skimmer in welded PVC sheet, then a flange for my pond window in PVC sheet, before making the first bio tank. So I have had a bit of practise...

Thanks mate 👍 ASHP's biggest issue is winter. and that is what you need to size it for. I'm running a 12kw Thermotec Eco Inverter on 11,500 litres (they don't make this particular model anymore they have a new model called the thermotec neo) The thermotec Pro is better rated for temps down to -15C but depends on what you want to do exactly. I also only run my ASHP during the day in the winter when air temp is at it's highest, and I have an ECO electricity tariff so set the ASHP timer to run on cheap electricity. so I need a slightly oversized ASHP to ensure it can keep up just running for up to 7 hours a day... So it also depends on what temp you want to run in winter too. The thermotec pro have a larger heat exchanger allowing them to run at lower temperatures -15C and better COP up to 13, and have 3 year warrantee The thermatec neo will run down to -7C and COP up to 10 and have a 2 year warrantee but the better COP's you can get, depends on the ambient air temperature and the ASHP running at less than 60% capacity. ie: at air temp of 15C at 80% power a thermotec pro will get a COP of 5.4, but at 25% power will get a COP of 7.1 So slightly oversizing an ASHP will get you a much better COP than undersizing. Mine has run fine down to -6C, but if it runs for a very long time as it has to do a 'hot gas defrost' cycle because the heat exchanger freezes up with ice. and takes the heat from the water in the pond, to defrost the heat exchanger. also to run at minus temperatures for a long time, the drip tray can freeze up so you may need to add a drip tray heating element to prevent that. If I was running a 22,000 litre pond with good insulation, I would be aiming at a 12kw -17 kw thermotec pro good down to -15C quite pricey though, or a 15.5kw to 18.4kw thermotec neo good to -7C If you call Nigel at heatpumps 4 pools he will advise you on the best ASHP for your particular set up 👍

Thanks, 👍

Thanks👍 No mate It's the thermotec eco inverter. Previous model to the thermotec neo inverter. It has a slightly larger heat exchanger than the neo, but not as big as the new thermotec pro.

@@DavesKoiPond cheers, just working on my mates pond as I’m an electrician so trying to work out what’s the best to advise because seems like he will need to go with a 12kw one, but thanks for the information really appreciate it setup looks clean keep it up 👍

@@Lewis4568 What size/volume is the pond? I'd go with the thermotec pro if funds allow. It's a bit more pricey compared to the neo inverter £2750 12kw pro vs £1750 11.5kw Neo but it will work better in low winter temperatures.

@@DavesKoiPond It’s a big one at 18,000 litres or I think around 4760 gallons, I will advise him on what your saying they don’t give to much information on the websites as what the differences are

@@Lewis4568 It does get quite complicated, as ASHP's biggest issue is winter. and that is what you need to size it for. I'm running a 12kw on 2500 gallons at around 18C, and in -6C temps it struggles a little. I also only run my ASHP during the day in the winter when air temp is at it's highest, and I have an ECO ecetricity tariff so set the ASHP timer to run on cheap electricity. so I need an oversized ASHP to ensure it can keep up just running for 7 hours a day... So it also depends on what temp you want to run in winter too. The thermotec pro have a larger heat exchanger allowing them to run at lower temperatures -15C and better COP up to 13, and have 3 year warrantee The thermatec neo will run down to -7C and COP up to 10 and have a 2 year warrantee but the better COP's you can get, depends on the ambient air temperature and the ASHP running at less than 60% capacity. ie: at air temp of 15C at 80% power a thermotec pro will get a COP of 5.4, but at 25% power will get a COP of 7.1 So slightly oversizing an ASHP will get you a better COP than undersizing. Mine has run fine down to -6C but runs for a very long time as it has to do a 'hot gas defrost' cycle because the heat exchanger freezes up with ice. and takes the heat from the water in the pond, to defrost the heat exchanger. also to run at minus temperatures for a long time, the drip tray can freeze up so you may need to add a drip tray heating element to prevent that. If you call heatpumps 4 pools they will advise you on the best ASHP for your particular set up 👍

Cheers Frank, 👍

Thanks, 👍

Cheers 👍

Cheers 👍 I'm more than happy with the growth, as you want them to get big pretty quick when bought at nisai or tosai...😊 But i'm more focused on giving them a healthier diet now they are a reasonable size.

Hi mate, 🙂 I'm not currently using citric acid to clean the membranes (that was for the drum mesh in the video), But i'll do a video showing how I clean my membranes after they have been disconnected for weeks for treatment ect... If you want some ideas what I do atm, just message me on my channels facebook page 👍 facebook.com/profile.php?id=100089905957883 There are basically 2 different groups of commercial cleaning chemicals for RO membranes. One acid type for descaling, and another for removing organic debris that is very alkaline. But i think they can only be bought by registered companies I believe? and come in large 25kg containers that are quite expensive. The company is: accepta.com/

@@DavesKoiPond thanks Dave, that video would be very helpfull, as my system has been down for winter, and I'm sure there is still life in the membranes, but am worried they've just been sitting there, and wirh the cost of the membranes reluctant to replace them till they're exhausted, unfortunately not on faceebook mate

@@marekskoipond9083 If you haven't been using them for a long while they will have hydrogen sulfide in them with decaying bacteria. They need sterilising before using again. In the absence of buying commercial cleaners.. My method is to disconnect the RRO from the pond and make a hot solution of virkon up in a 25litre bucket. Then draw that through the booster pump, send the first few litres to waste and once clean looking, cycle it around back to the 25 litre bucket with the waste out and product out lines for half an hour, then let it sit for a few hours then cycle it again until it runs clean. Then lots of flushing with clean dechlorinated water in the bucket The benefit of using virkon is, in trace amounts in the pond it isn't toxic, and it isn't too agressive on the membranes. But it will oxidise and shorten the membranes usual life.... you also need to make sure not even the tiniest piece of dirt gets in the vane pump though or it will knacker it.

Thanks Lau, 🙂 They always seem happier in warmer water.

Thanks 👍

Cheers mate, 👍

Thanks, 🙂

Hi, 🙂 They are from 3 to 6 years old (Sansai to Rokusai), and the price depends on size, age, and quality when bought, from £50 to £500 as a rough guide. Though much larger fish and older fish at 4-5 years can sell for thousands, most people buy at 1-2 years old (tosai to nisai) and grow them on. 👍 However they are generally not worth so much when re-selling or moving on, due to health/quarantine risks.

Thanks mate, 👍🙂 It's a double edged sword being the other side of the pond, you get better access to the original 'made in japan' products and food from the likes of Hikari and JPD, but most of the drum innovations and filters are based in the UK and Europe.... Have you seen 'KoiRun' youtube channel, He's based in Canada too, he covers his pond and heats it with ducted hot air from his house's furnace heater through winter.

Thanks mate 🙂👍

Hi, I use John Guest or DMfit 12mm push fit fittings, and 12mm LLDPE pipe that you can get in various colours including black.👍 commonly available from some caravan/camping shops, finch filtration, Vyair, or ebay. 🙂

Thanks, 👍 i'm still changing around 3-4% a day via recycle R.O. at 4:1

Thanks, 👍

Cheers 👍

Not this year mate, been a bit hectic 😄 Not even had chance to install my new bio chamber, it'll be next year now, and when it's warmer 😎

Thanks mate 👍

Dík, 👍 Vakuoměr pouze ukazuje, zda se předfiltr příliš rychle zablokuje nebo zda je problém. Pokud používáte 120 mikronový nebo méně sítový bubnový filtr před R.O. předfiltr, neměl by se blokovat. Pomocné čerpadlo má maximální záporný podtlak 0,1 bar, aby se zabránilo poškození čerpadla. takže by to byl spoušť k čištění, ale můj nikdy nedosáhl tohoto bodu. Ale abych zabránil nadměrnému hromadění bakterií a nečistot, filtry obvykle čistím každé 3 měsíce. tryskovým praním a máčením v 10% roztoku bělidla. Poté důkladně namočte a opláchněte v čisté vodě s trochou dechlorinátoru. Dva filtry, které používám, jsou 20" x 4,5" skládané sedimentové filtry, nejprve 20 mikronů a poté 5 mikronů. Podobné jako v odkazu níže. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352219081968

@@DavesKoiPond

super děkuji za rychlou odpověď :-) ale ten záporný podtlak 1 bar ne 0,1bar to by bylo moc málo nee? a ten roztok bělidla je coo ? dechlorinátor používáš jaký ? @@DavesKoiPond

@@user-tv3ku7tl9b 1 bar záporné vakuum je více, než čerpadlo snese, způsobí jeho selhání. Maximální vakuum 0,1 bar. Normálně by pomocné čerpadlo mělo přetlakový zdroj z vodovodní vody, ale protože tento systém je recyklovaná jezírková voda, přetlak pochází pouze z jezírkového čerpadla. Potřebujete dodat R.O. předfiltry pomocného čerpadla z výstupu na jezírkovém čerpadle, takže tlačí jezírkovou vodu přes předfiltry a dodává dostatek vody v LPH do pomocného čerpadla.

díky za odpověď už jsem to pochopil , mohu ještě otázku ? na tom čerpadle je ventilek -ten se nějak musí seřizovat ? přeji krásný večer

Hi, I use john guest or DMfit 12mm push fit fittings, and 12mm LLDPE pipe that you can get in various colours including black.👍 commonly available from caravan/camping shops, finch filtration, or ebay. 🙂

Thanks Dave. Will look 👀

I've not done any HDPE welding, but seen youtube videos of RV water tanks being made, and they look pretty tough.🙂 Maybe it depends on the thickness of sheets that is welded? th-cam.com/video/ddLlSRtYqFU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5TnAp_tJynvdpNMm I've done PVC welding before and that was a real pain, as even slightly too much heat and it scorches black really easy.

Cheers 👍

Thanks, 🙂 yes that's no problem 👍

Yes mate no problem, It's also the first link in the description 🙂 postimg.cc/hXqCfRC6 It doesn't have every single one of the smaller pieces or the lid, some of the smaller ones I cut myself, as I needed to build, and then measure exact sizes. BTW this is still a prototype, it's not been tested in situ and found working yet 😄

Hello Dave could you please check your cutting list there seems to be a discrepancy on your bracing box section

@@martinokeeffe2834 Hi, I'm sure what you mean? 🙂 The cutting list is simply what I sent for the pro forma invoice, and had made, some bracing pieces were used around the top, some just kept as spares or for additional bracing if needed as it is a proto type. The 50 x 50 bracing box section is not on the cutting list and had to be ordered as a whole 6 meter length. I had a short section left over from a previous build so got away with one length, but you would need about 8 meters in total. 👍

Hello again Dave sorry to be a pain but what would be your flow rate through these grills?

@@martinokeeffe2834 No problem mate 🙂 For this pump fed one, I am aiming for around 11,500 lph, which is a once per hour turn over of my pond. But without testing it, which I haven't done yet, I won't know for sure. As it is the first pump fed one of this size I have built. My smaller current gravity fed bio is only about 200 litres with 75 litres of K1 micro and 5,000 lph. The outlet grill free area is about 300cm2 compared to a 4" pipe of approximately 80cm2. Water moves at a different speed though many small slots or smaller holes than it does through a single large bore pipe, as per fluid dynamics (friction forces and resistance increase with a smaller cross sectional area, and more towards the inner edge of the bore, than the middle where there are less friction forces so is non uniform in flow) But also if you have too small a free area cm2 of outlet grill, it can also trap media by suction, causing it to act like a static bed accumulating waste and going bad bacterially. And too fast a flow rate can also lead to incomplete nitrification, and elevated ammonia nitrite levels. 👍

Thanks, 🙂 That's great advise, and works 100% when i'm routing with wood, 👍 I did try that with a test piece of scrap polypropylene first, but it just chews the plastic up and the chips melt and bond to the bottom of the cut, regardless of what RPM speed you make the cut, and it makes a horrible mess. It's the worst stuff i've ever routed, as it's soft and melts easily at a very low temperature. Conversely edge profiles are easy when the chips are ejected, chamfer cuts are simple and clean... 🙂

Thanks, 🙂 I'd say it's not for the faint hearted, but it's not rocket science either... The biggest tip would be to do lots of practise pieces with scrap sheet, and make some smaller items to start with. I made my current smaller polypropylene bio tank, and a 4" PVC skimmer I made for my current pond build...👍

@@DavesKoiPond Thanks Dave👍

Cheers, It's been a bit of a hard graft for me,😄 but worth the effort 🙂

@@DavesKoiPond where did you buy the material I want to give a try next year 😁👌

@@Crazyforkoiandgoldfish Oadby plastics www.oadbyplastics.co.uk/

Thanks 👍 Some of the stuff I already had, the heat welder and welding rod. but the 12mm plastic and box section came to £293 inc delivery, the 9mm for the lid was a piece I had left over from a couple of years ago. The cutting list and supplier I used are also in the descriptions of the part 1 and 2 videos. www.oadbyplastics.co.uk/

Cheers 👍

Thanks, 🙂

Cheers, 👍

Cheers, 👍

Thanks, 👍 Hope it will be all done by the end of the week 🤞

Thanks 👍