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Some quick thoughts - firstly, thanks for making a helpful video. Second, early in the video you described the batteries as being in parallel, when they're in fact in series. Third, and MOST IMPORTANT, is a comment about safety. When you're soldering to lithium ion batteries, spend as little time with the iron on the battery as possible. They're temperature sensitive and like to blow themselves up. My recommendation would be a slightly different approach than was done here. Dab some flux right on the battery, a little is enough. Get a nice big drop of melted solder on the tip of your iron, and let the solder wick off of your iron onto the battery terminal as the flux cooks off. Doing this instead of melting the solder as you're pressing it against the terminal will hopefully get you an adequate joint without having to put too much heat into the cells. thanks again.

Great video! Thanks for sharing. Maybe the small pads are for shock absorbance purpose :-)

Thanks! will try this. Shame battery replacements often are complicated. Guess they just want us to buy new stuff.

Ciao. Qualcuno ha provato a ripristinare la batteria BT-DN300 ? Per aprirla avete istruzioni su come procedere? Grazie

Thought I’d share some extra information, when I completed this my battery didn’t work. I checked the voltage using my meter and it was all fine up to the circuit board. So, I download the old version of the Di2 software v3.4.5 onto the PC. I connected my bike to the PC and whilst I had the latest battery firmware I’m sure it did something to the circuit board to bring it back online, if that makes sense! My battery: SM-BTR2, charger: SM-BCR2. Important note the SM-BCR2 charger is the PC linking device for E-tube project software version v3.4.5, find it in the archive section of the shimano e-tube website. Thanks so much for the video Davie! Saved me some dosh…

What is exactly name of batery replacement ? 14440?

Please let me know where to you buy the batteries

Thanks, but not a bit of single track, not a rock in sight, a log to hop (or hit and hurdle), just grass and pavement. Will run tubies as I have for the past twenty years but would love to set up tubeless on #2 bike (how many pair of 12 speed wheels do I need?) All these years later, how has tubeless worked on "jungle" courses - rough mtb sections are very common in New England, USA cross. Not sure anyone I race with/against would admit that they are disappointed with racing tubeless. Your honest opinion on 33-38mm tires on rocky/rooty/nasty courses? Thanks.

I tried this, and now it doesn't work anymore. It still communicates, but it doesn't give any power anymore. 😞

I've found the answer regarding difficulty in removing the inner from a BT-DN 110a, see my earlier comment . After carefully slitting the outer case, with a Stanley knife, I was able to use a sharp pointer to prise the inner from the end of the case. I then found the a double side sticky pad was used to fix the end battery to the case. It maybe be possible by very careful drilling hole (say 3 or 4mm dia.) in the end of the case to push the inner out without the need to first slit the case.

Top job, no way I am giving Shimano £160, its just robbery.

Many thanks for a great video. I've have a BT-DN 110a that I am unable to remove inners. I've put forks in the groves at each end of the case and tapped these with a hammer. I've also tried gentle heat, which may release glue, but with no effect. The only thing I can now think of is carefully cutting the case. Do you have any suggestions? Kind regards Pete

Nice!! I’ve ordered some cells and will be doing some soldering.. mine lost all its charge after 1 ride and I’m not paying £149:-)

Hi and thank you for the reply. It was worth asking.

Hi are you open to refurb my batteries ? I will pay obviously. Please get back to me when you can. Regards George

thank for your vido.I successfully revived my 6870 and saved 85＄on battery🥺

I replaced my batteries with new cells from Digikey. $3 each. I welded on my own tabs on the batteries and found the tabs and solder joints need to be tidy or the assembly won't easily fit back in the case. For $6 my Di2 is back in action.

after replacing the batteries, unfortunately, the whole assembly stopped working :(((

TY for this tutorial!

Hi have a good friend going to follow up with your nollage a good video jerry

cheers Davie . just did mine in 15 mins !!

Magic thanks man

Bom dia dia,pode me passar o link de onde conseguiu essas bateria de 650ml

Thanks so much for the demonstration. I have the same issue. Batteries ordered.

Writing here because I haven't found any help on the internet I replaced the cells in a battery that stopped holding charge for more than 24h. Essentially, I did the exact same job as shown in this video. The problem is that the di2 system pretends my battery is dead despite it being charged. I can charge the battery with the normal di2 charger, everything seems fine. But when I try to shift, the junction box blinks 5 times red - meaning the battery is dead. Except it isn't, both cells are at 4.2V My guess is that the microcontroller of the battery decided it was dead (either for safety or just to stop you from repairing it, Apple style) and refused to change gears, since a big part of the brain of the di2 system is in the battery I tried updating the firmware of the battery using the SM-BCR-2. I hoped that updating the firmware would "reset" the battery, but while I managed to update it, it still refused to power the system Also worth noting, the shifting works when the charger is plugged in, but won't if the charger is plugged in but not the battery. So I know the battery can physically work but won't

G'day Davie, I just have a quick question about the ingenious DI2 battery hack U posted. Firstly, thankyou very much indeed for sharing your knowledge, it's much appreciated and helps a countless number of people. I have a di2 equipped bike with the newer bt dn 300, and as U would know I'm sure, the junction box was scrapped by Shimano in this version. Im pretty confident your method of battery replacement will work on this system? And lastly mate, what charger could I use to avoid buying the Shimano charging cable etc, I mean it's basic USB charging but they have made a one off proprietary charge connector, when they could have used micro USB or USB type C I'm thinking. Could I cut up a USB C cable, as they are capable of faster charging than its predecessors, and perhaps put a couple of small alligator clips on my USB C cable and charge my battery direct, bypassing the port in the rear derailleur? Sorry for the lengthy post, oncei started I remembered there was a few things I needed to try to find out. So thanks again, and you and everyone who shares knowledge are legends,, and as the saying goes, sharing knowledge makes one immortal. Cheers from The ,Land Down Under.

Thanks Davie. Really good explanation and it needs to be. I'll give it a go with my 110 and if it doesn't work...I'll buy another. Try first, cry later!

Hello, I have some question about Di2 Battery connecting area. Beside cable connector (coaxial) we could see some kind of copper plate (lamella) I think it could be for "hard reset" of battery. Disconnecting cable make this late in contact with outer of coaxial connector. Right ?

Hello I would like to use a Shimano Alfine 11Di2 for my e-bike muscle drive part, but I don't want 3 batteries on board (so far I have 2 GreenPack to power 2 Grin AllAxle motors). I would like to know if it is possible to power Di2 differently than from the original Shimano battery? For example, using the Shimano EW-EX010 adapter normally used with Bosch systems. However, no one can tell me what the plug at the end of Bosch Y-Harness is (the one that plugs into EW-EX010) and what pinout it has. I suspect that I will have to reduce the voltage from 48V on the GreenPack to a 36V Bosch battery and I will not have a CAN to control the automatic gearshift (no cadence and speed sensors for the muscle drive). Or maybe do it differently ????

Baby limus any good if I have to choose one tubular tyre for irish cyclocross?

Just fried my battery. It wasn't holding charge well and I decided to replace cells. Opened it up and started to carefully peel tape. Suddenly got a whiff of smoke from the board. Put everything back - Di2 is completely dead and not charging (charging light doesn't come on). Not sure what could happen. Is it possible Shimano added some tamper protection to newer batteries? BT-DN110 from 2016 Meanwhile my bike is dead until new battery arrives... :(

My DN110 doesn't show up on the pce2 and when trying to charge and the light on the main charger doesn't appear. Opened up the casing and the voltage was 6.16v. Tried to push up the voltage for both and for each battery using 12v but not really moving much 6.56v. I would have thought the unit would still be recognised with 6.16v so before I start thinking about replacing the batteries, any idea if the CPU is most likely at fault? The charger is getting power to the batteries but not charging them I believe. Both batteries are over 3v.

Just out of curiosity how long does a battery pack normally last does anybody know

Excellent job -- these packs are 125 euros where I live and this is a great solution.

Not to criticize but if you use a better solder iron you would get better and faster results with your welds. Using that iron you are holding the heat on the battery longer trying to get the solder to melt, that is not good for the battery. I see those batteries came with tabs on the ends. you only need to solder the tabs together between the two batteries and not try to solder the batteries together. I have experience building battery packs mainly using the 18650 cells but they are basically the same. I do appreciate you posting this video because it will save me money when it comes time to replace my Shimano battery. I will give this a go

Thanks for the video. I have a charger for other lithium batteries. My question is at the end of the assembled battery could one connector to positive and negative?

Good tips. But. Dismantling mine, find batteries were 100% despite being 4 yrs old, it was the little PCB on the pack that fried. For that there's no fix but to but a new £120+ rip-off priced pack. The E-tube confirmed the master unit wasn't visible, until the DN-110 smart battery was plugged in to the system

Davie or someone, have you managed to do the same with the newer Shimano Di2 BT-DN110 model? I am having a hard time "opening" the housing... It does not have the tabs to push in to release the housing...

Can anyone help, problems with Di 2. After testing the battery., pressing the lever, solid green light comes on followed by the red three seconds later, green and red lights are on together. What does that indicate? Rear mec is working but front mec isn’t,t . Battery is showing 7.5v . Can anyone help

Hello, Thx a lot I want to charge the bike for the good wheater this weekend & there where no lights on the charger and the DI2. Just ordered 2 pieces. We will try it out :-)

Congratulations on the win strong tt

Animal Davey! 💪

Wow.

Congratulations on the win Dave and the strong performances from the coached riders.

Strong race, great job.

Nice one Hamish, that took a big dig at the end to get back on again

😂, it’s had a hard life that bike! Think the only thing holding it together is the build up of sweat!! 😂

What we’re you riding? A sewing machine 😂

Weights?

great stuff, wonder if it'd work with the newere DN-110 batteries...