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The Makita is probably slightly heavier, that’s why I always liked the Dewalt in the past. We have run the Rupes rotary, it’s light as a feather but the torque is not all there. Heard they don’t last very long for marine detailing but it’s quite a cool machine

@@curtisholick3135 I use the Makita daily in my business and have tried the Rupes, I found the Rupes very easy to stall under medium/heavy pressure

@@MikesMarineDetailing Great perspective! All of them died at 3-5 months… did they tell you what the problem was at the service center?

@@topdockpro They had a few ideas but nothing that could be said for certain. The first time, they said it was likely that I was using too small of a gauge of extension cord, starving the motor of power causing it to work too hard and overheat. So I bought a $400 10 gauge cord and a second machine and still had the same problem. Then they suggested it could be a supply issue (the wiring going to the outlet not being sufficient), or that I’m simply putting too much pressure on the machine. I think the problem was exasperated by heavy cutting on the lowest machine speed, which means the cooling fan is running at the least efficient speed. Of course, using Starke Level R there’s really no way around that. For context, I’m also 6’4 200 lbs and pretty athletic so I think my idea of medium pressure would be hard pressure to an average person (so my hard pressure is extra hard). It’s probably some combination of all these factors, and I’m still experimenting to see if I can fix the issue

@@MikesMarineDetailinghave you tried replacing the carbon brushes or at least checked them out? That’s always what happens to me after a few months so I just pop new ones in

@@holdenbaldassi3697 I did inspect the brushes, they looked fine and had lots of material left. One of the times at the service centre they gave me a whole new unit because there was so much damage that nothing was salvageable. So I think it’s a heat problem. When your brushes went out, did the rpms flutter and did it start arcing near the exhaust ports? Those are the symptoms on mine

@@alexbarden5532 marinedetailsupply.com

You’re cleaning the seat not the waterline of the hull while it’s in the water. Aside from that. Ya can bet it’s some basic cleaner not concentrated. Otherwise gloves would be needed. Any little bit of that. That could get out into that volume of water. Isn’t enough to hurt much of anything

We are currently still detailing the boat

No, lol. Mold is bacteria, what removes bacteria?

@@topdockpro allot of things, that’s why he’s asking! I’m curious as well.

@@mattbardhi898 50:50 bleach and water

@@topdockpro

We will be on Apple, Spotify, TH-cam, and Amazon Music by the end of next week. Currently follow the show here: www.buzzsprout.com/2123983

Thanks for tuning in!

@@holdenbaldassi3697 No it does not bead. Gotta remember it was left for 2 years no wash or booster. It did fend off oxidation very well on the cockpit area. Gunnel caps needed a light sand. Hull just needs buffed

About $300 on Amazon. 6x5' solstice raft

Yes 🙌 the dream team

Please do!

Thanks :)

It’s good for minor oxidation and removing sanding scratches but if you have deep oxidation and the customer doesn’t want to pay for wet sanding your better off using ardex 600 or presta super cut.

@@holdenbaldassi3697agreed, 90% of the time boat doesn’t even need to be wet sanded, use super cut or super duty, followed by heavy cut from 3m or level r, and then finish it out with perfect it ex ac or mernzerna 400 on foam pad.

I will check it out. Didn’t know they had compounds

Starke Yacht Care

@topdockpro thank u and very nice outcome

Never knew about that. Where you buying it from?

@@topdockpro Supermarket or Big Box hardware typically

👏

Didn’t know about it!

Haha that’s crazy!

Awesome! Glad it worked for your boat

Yes it is the best thing ever! Glad it worked for your boat :)

Using gtechniq for coating! Unless you talk me into repel pro😬

Starke Elevate and the Starke $ Pad

@@topdockpro great thanks for that, I was thinking of using the new finish r. Do you have any experience with it yet?

@@zacharysanchez4375 Yeah I thought it was great at first… Elevate is better

@@topdockpro okay cool, and I should be able to use wool/micro fiber and then a foam pad with the elevate to polish her up? Just going to single stage the white and most likely two stage the navy blue it has.

There’s tiny bits of oxidation going on but nothing too crazy. I was planning on trying out the triple p with rupes yellow pads on a da!

Triple P can’t handle any sort of oxidation, it has no grit. You should use a polish like Elevate beforehand

I’ve heard that’s like the best way to do it! Good job 👍

Simple, too oxidized. Short term solution to a long term problem

Yes, that’s why you clean the boat regularly. Of course if you let it sit for months it may start to etch in the coating. But even a WSP will remove it. Ceramic offers far better UV protection than a sealant / wax

Doesn’t have to be if it’s strip washed prior to polymer application. On ceramics yes, it should be alcohol prepped

We don’t really hire short-term work like that

Glad it was helpful!

Possibly, no promises 😬

I did 😭 not the best one out there

Honestly you can’t even notice it in real life. Just picks it up on the camera

It may cause some discoloration. Always wet the trailer before you spray the acid or throw a tarp on to keep the acid off

In my opinion it sucks. There are much better product lineups out there. Starke Yacht Care, 3M, & Presta

Thanks! 👍

Yes that’s Level R!

What do you recommend on the rpms?

No not a fan

It’s not my boat but the client said it goes 55 and cruises best around 32

Not my boat brother, we just detail them

What do you mean?

@@topdockpro you know the wet spot water filtration cylinders you hook up to the garden hoes before washing. Helps take the minerals out of the water to prevent water spots. What’s your opinion on those ?

I think it was $50 per foot