วีดีโอ

Paying to have it done on top of that 😂

the answer Is…carefully. To add to the challenge drip edge goes over the underlayment, while apron should be installed first, and covered by the underlayment. There needs to be a few inches of the apron ran up the rake and face nailed with a few trim nails. Then the roof is felted with whatever type underlayment you prefer. We use synthetic, unless the pitch is a 2-3/12. In those cases we cover the entire roof with ice and water shield …same order, same rules apply. Then drip edge is installed at the transition or base of the valley up to the ridge. Where the 2 come together the drip edge will overlap the few inches of apron, while also going over the underlayment locking it all in. Doesn’t hurt to put a few trim nails through drip edge and apron in the few inches where they come together. As it pertains to a 1/2 inch gap that is only necessary if there are no gutters and you intend to retro fit the gutters behind the apron. If the gutters are already there you install the apron over the back of the gutter, and cut notches out so that it fits in around the spikes or brackets. The kick out on both drip and apron directs water out away from the fascia boards. The kickout is small but it does the trick. Pitch of the roof doesn’t matter when installing along the rakes. Drip edge has a 90deg angle, and sits flat on the roof, and flush with the fascia unless there is bed moulding at the top of the fascia. This can be removed so that the drip is flush on the fascia side, but that can create problems, such as small lines of unpainted fascia….unless the painters painted the fascia before and after installing the moulding (not likely). It’s also more Labor and time. Best to just go over the top of the moulding and get the drip with a 6 inch roof side so that it can be nailed to a solid surface. If not the moulding, fascia, and gap between the fascia and decking could be more than the roof side of the drip giving you no nailable surface but the top of the fascia which you don’t want. With the apron you should see an angle already built in. This angle isn’t enough for a 10/12, so you can make custom apron with a metal break….assuming your client is willing to pay for custom work, or you pull the apron flush to the fascia, which will force the roof side to increase in angle, just make sure you cut out around the spikes, and add face nails if need be. Even better scenario would be to do this prior to adding gutters, which can then be slid in behind the fascia side of the apron, and screwed into the gutter and fascia with the gutter brackets making it more animal proof, and leak proof by securely blocking off the builders Gap. This won’t always work on the entire eave bc gutters are installed at an angle. So some of the apron may go into the gutters, some may stop slightly above. This is where the kickout comes into play and will cause any water that does get back that far to drip off the kickout into the gutter. Hope that helps

@@PSCRIBBS3819 If a roofer can do the angles for a 10/12 on site vs. bending a 90 degree prefab, does that make a difference?

@@PSCRIBBS3819thank you for taking the time to write such a through, detailed explanation. You confirmed a lot of my suspicions and answer questions not asked. It sure seems a lot of problems could been reduced if the builders installed primed/painted 2” fascia at the eaves and rack edges then primed/painted the perimeter edges of the roof deck sheathing. Since exposed metal can be a source of condensation, having a slight gap to allow airflow would be helpful to reduce metal oxidation and wood rot. In areas of direct metal to wood contact, such as to where the gutter Will contact the fascia, a thin waterproof insulating layer of asphalt tape would slow the condensation wood rot process. Also, since painting the interior of the gutters will extend the life of them. I’m curious how use a hydrophobic finish spray on the interior of the gutter will further reduce the oxidation process. Obviously in regions subject to major snow & ice conditions, gutters are more challenging or impossible without more customized systems.

If you've added gutters without existing drip-edge or "apron" then you may have amplified the issue as moisture is being trapped between gutters and fascia board not drying nearly as fast as without a gutter there at all. Drip-edge/ Apron should be able to be added though a bit more difficult to get under the underlayment.

Could be that the shingle overhang is not long enough , or that your gutters aren’t securely attached to the fascia. Ideally the spikes or brackets should anchor through the fascia into the rafter tails. If not and the gutters get clogged, or filled with water, the weight begins to pull the gutter away almost as though it’s slowly tipping over. Best bet is to install the gutter apron so that as much of it as possible goes over and into the back side of the gutter, then to be doubly sure add more gutter brackets which will screw the apron and backside of the gutter together and securely to the fascia, which will also prevent water from running behind the gutters. As far as the metal portico goes the installers should have made custom drip edge to go with the metal roof covering. Adding standard drip or apron for shingled roofs on the metal sections will be very difficult and almost for sure won’t be a color match. Your best bet if you know the builder or roofer that installed the metal, have them come back and custom make drip and apron that are the same color and gauge as the metal. Retro fitting drip & or apron to a shingled roof can be done, however, if the shingles aren’t pliable you could end up cracking the last row or the starter shingle. Definitely easier to install during a re-roof. Hope that helps.