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Thanks, dude!

Cool! Great tip.

Agree..when finish is damaged all these products do is add a sheen.

You Sir, are a gentleman. Nice constructive criticism. I agree 100%, the table would turned out a lot better with some prior sanding. Having said that, thank you very much @aceman199 for taking your time to do this very helpful review.

My suggestion, put one coat then a light sand, good wipe down and add another coat or two then a good rub down with a microfiber towel...

​@@MeadowDayThat isn't how Restore and Finish works. It actually works itself INTO the existing finish. If you remove the existing finish, this product can't work. That's why it doesn't work on polyurethane finishes; it can't bond with the poly so it just sits on top and does nothing.

If the finish is polyurethane or similar substance, Restore a Finish won't work. It has to be laquer or shellac.

Heavy

I used restore-a-finish in my sewing machine case about a month ago, and it is not tacky. I did not follow with feed-n-wax, though

yes after 6 months, same process , it will look awesome and add character.

You can't apply polyurethane on top of this product.

are your walls finished wood? Talk to your landlord? Try a little tiny 1" square spot in a corner or behind a door and see?

@@aceman199 they were but I think the last tenant darkened the walls so I'm not sure

Yup, there's no such thing as a miracle product, but this product serves a purpose.

I think the beeswax definitely helps, but I've found it needs to be applied frequently.

I did my scratched and scraped floors with this exact methods. Looked fabulous, like I refinished them, and only took about 1 hr.

Its called 'Restor-A-Finish' made by Howard's(the same company that makes the feed n wax beeswax finish and butcher block conditioner) It is sorta like a non aggressive stain and it is formulated to blend away the scratches and water rings, blemishes etc. You can purchase it at Home Depot or Lowes in the same section as the sand paper and stains and paint etc. There are several different color choices. After you apply the restor a finish and let it dry for 30 minutes it is recommended to use the feed n wax which is a beeswax and citrus blend wax finish that protects everything

Great feedback, thanks. This product seems to do a good job but has limitations on high-wear area such as a kitchen island where the surface treatment will rub off over time.

Same thing here. Looks great for 3 weeks after applying both products. Then the old imperfections come back. Manufacturer says polyurethane cannot be used on top of it - so what can be applied to protect it?

I've just watched several of these 'review' vids, and all of them only show the immediate results, so I kept wondering how it holds up, because none of these products every do. They look 'good' until the solvents in it dissipate then the wood looks exactly as it did before but perhaps a tad cleaner. I'm zero impressed with seeing 'immediate' results. WD-40 could accomplish the same apparent 'magic, instant transformation'.

So recommend somn bro, what's better ??

I wonder how the Howard’s wax would work instead of the feed and wax. It would be nice seeing results 6 -12 months later

I hope you happy with your ES920 Piano. I just ordered the brand new Kawai VPC-1 and it will arrive February 8. What I like about vpc-1, it has bus power, just connect to MacBook Pro and it will tun on and ready to play and record to Pianoteq or any favorite DAW. Many review said good about this vpc-1 action key. The new ES-920 should have good key also. I tried the ES-920 at the local store and it seems ok but missing something connection to express more while the vpc-1 can give more. It just my experience, people have more opinion. I think only 1 or 2 left brand new that I found online, soon will be replaced by new Kawai I guess. Good luck with brand new ES-920

Why? Because the action is better.

The action of the VPC1 is superior. The keys are made of wood, and have a wonderful feel. The VPC1 duplicates the feel of the way the escapement in a real piano works (those mechanical elements that other MIDI keyboards don't have are why the case behind the keys needs to be higher).

@Lee Blaske my 11 year old granddaughter is progressing well in piano, playing Debussy pieces and such. So my daughter moved her up from a Kawai digital piano to a new Kawai acoustic piano costing $7000. The child and her teacher are very pleased 😀

Yes, the keys slide side to side a bit - Kawai says it's normal. It's caused by the bushing being a bit loose. Kawai didn't send a technician to my home to fix my issues, they sent me a replacement, which actually had more issues. Then they started to ignore me and clearly didn't want to send a third replacement, so I had to open it up and fix the problems myself. Based on the two VPC1s I received, there seems to be quite a bit of variance between units, and their QA leaves a lot to be desired.

@@maulcs I wonder if the transportation is not also a factor in this. The unit has has a big journney to our shores... Add to that: the keys were laterally held in place only with a (quality) wide adhesive tape. Which possibly is not enough against displacement by lateral impact. Final delivery to me was through a carrier service one step better than our country's go-to consumer shipping service... you just can't guarantee that someone will put the package upright en route for an extended time at some point. - Based on your experience, I guess I won't contact Kawai over that matter then ...kind of come to accept it. Might address it once the warranty is over...

@@greeneyes66 Transportation could cause some problems, but I've seen others that definitely weren't caused by it. If you don't have key clicking or sensor inconsistency issues, consider yourself lucky - the keys sliding thing is standard and you'll get used to it.

Yes I have the same problem gap between keys is very uneven all over the keyboard. It's a little disturbing at first but it seem to be only esthetics. The action performs well anyway. Still I would prefer more attention to the details.

yes, same problem, but even author of this video didn´t notice..

Totally agree

KAWAI warranty = 5 years // noisy keys "all over the keyboard" or are there some keys ? James Pavel is testing a MP11SE ; listen to his comment about 'quiet' >> 30:04 - 30:50 << at the end // th-cam.com/video/xoVbeBntQoc/w-d-xo.html

Kawai QA is simply subpar, lots of variance between units.

@@maulcs How do you know? Do you own twenty or so VCP-01s. I bought one a few months ago but am prepared to open it if problems occur. I do expect quality at the selling price but Kawai might be jobbing our the action to sloppy shops.

@@michael69040 I've read countless threads, and had two VPC1s myself. The replacement they sent had a lot of variance compared to the original, and in fact was even worse - I ended up returning it and fixing the original myself. I also measured every key downweight and sensor value, and compiled a detail analysis between the two: www.udrop.com/5Nv6/VPC1_comparison_CHARTS.pdf

@@michael69040 I think the VPC1, when working properly, is probably the best slab digital there is - and with a more acoustic-feeling action over the MP11, even if the pivot point is a bit shorter. If you don't notice any issues I wouldn't go searching for them. The problem I had was readily apparent, with clicking key tops that were independent from the action - you could hold some keys in place and tap and they would still click. The Kawai representative, and myself, thought that keys were coming unglued, which is why the replacement was sent. After returning the replacement for different issues, it was a struggle to get them to act, so I opened it myself. The internals are actually quite simple, and easy to deal with and repair. It took me awhile to find out what the problem was, and I'm pretty sure that a Kawai tech might not have noticed it. The wood was actually too tight around the balance pins, and the clicking was actually a kind of wooden creak. I could have tried Protek CLP, but it was quite tight, so I decided to run an electric drill very gently for like a second around each wooden key hole, and that did the trick. Now I'm only feeling the action itself, and not added friction - which has made it more responsive, but also a bit lighter. I also calibrated each key for consistency, which you can do with the VPC1 software - you always want to reduce the sensor values though, not increase. Regardless, I'd recommend getting the VPC1 software just to choose some different default curves. The normal curve is too light by default, and hard to play softly with. The Galaxy curve is closest to the acoustic I have. Garritan CFX full is also the best modestly-priced VST I've tried. I still prefer my modest upright acoustic, but the VPC1 is a great digital alternative that I can play at any time.

Nope! No markings. It's solid wood though and I got it at the thrift store for $20 a few years ago. :)

aceman199 well you got a much better deal than I did. The owner told me that it was her parent’s and they had the table since they were kids so we knew it was at least from the 50’s or 60’s

@@maggierco Interesting. It does look like it's from that era. Was it hard to strip off the finish?

@@aceman199 Nope not hard at all! I used Citristrip and it worked no problem. Sanded, conditioned, stained and finished and it looks brand new! I am looking into using Restor-a-finish because I used the wrong kind of finish and the stain has faded in places and I don't want to do the process over again. It was a pretty quick weekend project.

Around 65-70g to the let-off point, 80g to fully depress a key (for C4). Obviously digital pianos don't have dampers so it's hard to compare it to the 50g recommended for an acoustic with dampers disengaged (which makes the keys lighter).

Did you fix it? It's a problem with the slip tape, and you can fix it yourself. Search for "piano world key clinic" on Google, and there's a few MP11 key fix videos which you can use as a guide as well.