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MuscleCarWorkshop
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 16 มี.ค. 2011
Camaro Rocker Molding Installation 1967 1968 1969 OER Brand
How to install first generation Camaro rocker moldings.
I use Classic Industries OER brand. Other brands install the same.
I use Classic Industries OER brand. Other brands install the same.
มุมมอง: 4 272
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How to locate and drill for 1969 Camaro Quarter Louvers
มุมมอง 563ปีที่แล้ว
Overview of how to locate and drill for new quarter louvers on a 1969 Camaro. Bolt on with factory style tin nuts.
1969 Corvette 427 Tri-Power Start Up Day
มุมมอง 865ปีที่แล้ว
Number matching 1969 Corvette 427 Tri Power. Frame off rotisserie restoration. Body and paint by Darrell Roth of Severance Autobody in Severance Colorado AKA Muscle Car Workshop. Finished in original Lemans Blue. Instagram: MuscleCarWorkshop for more photos and videos
How to remove runs in automotive clearcoat quickly, easily and safely.
มุมมอง 82K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Musclecarworkshop.com Follow us on Instagram: Musclecarworkshop Process to remove clearcoat runs: 1. After clearing your vehicle, if you notice a run, spray 2-3 more coats of clear over it waiting approximately 5 minutes between coats to increase millage. 2. Fully cure the run with a heat lamp or out in the sun for a day. 3. Wipe off area to be sanded with wax and grease remover or soapy water ...
1969 Camaro ZL1 start up day 600hp 600torq
มุมมอง 8485 ปีที่แล้ว
1969 Camaro ZL1 clone. Full rotisserie restoration built by me for a customer in Kansas. It has the Chevrolet Performance parts 053 aluminum block built as a 496 stroker with full roller rockers and lifters. The engine assembly is built by Greeley Automotive Machine (GAM racing engines) Dynoed around 600hp and 600 ftlbs torque. Runs on pump gas 91 octane. Transmission is a Bowler TKO 600 5 spee...
1969 Camaro ZL1 427 Anniversary Engine GM Performance Parts
มุมมอง 21K12 ปีที่แล้ว
1969 Camaro with GM Performance Parts all aluminum 427 anniversary engine 102 of 427 built. Full show car build by Darrell Roth of Severance Autobody. www.MuscleCarWorkshop.com ( Instagram MuscleCarWorkshop) ( Facebook Muscle Car Workshop)
1969 Camaro ZL1
มุมมอง 9K13 ปีที่แล้ว
Start up day. 600 hp and 600ft. lbs torque. Complete frame off restoration by Darrell Roth of Severance Autobody. www.MuscleCarWorkshop.com Instagram-MuscleCarWorkshop Facebook-Muscle Car Workshop
A TOTAL WASTE OF TIME WATCHING THIS VIDEO IF??? YOU WANT TO REPLICATE THIS METHOD ON YOUR OWN VEHICLE, Yeah all good except what next why didn't you show what your next stages are IE i wished you had shown us wet DA standing then compound Polishing and final Polishing stages so this video is of NO practical use for anyone to go and use in their own car so a total waste of my time watching this video 😑 😢😮😮
I always just laugh when people tell me they paint cars for a living and never get a run...if you paint enough you WILL get a a run. Ive even seen factory paint that has a sag in it. Even robots mess up
Measurements would have been the cherry on top
Awesome video you saved me hours of work
Great video thanks
Thanks! That helps.
How do you know where to mount the supporting bracket as it’s not the entire length of the chrome piece?
When measuring from the rear of the rocker to the front of the rocker, the first hole in the rocker for the mounting strip is located 15 1/8 inches from the back edge and 1/2 inch down. This is the measurement to the center of the hole. Use an 1/8 inch bit. (this hole is approximately 2 1/4 inch ahead of the front quarter door opening edge) Now you can use the mounting strip to locate the rest of the holes, all 1/2 inch down from the rocker edge. The last hole for the mounting strip is located in the front fender.
Thank you. I admit it took me an hour just to figure out how to get the track out of the back of the molding 😅 felt like cave man. Gave up after the second hour with my track upside down😂. Awesome video 👏 67 SS RS 454 700R4 12 Bolt Tuxedo Black 😎
Thanks for your input! The struggle to get the mounting strip out is real. That gives me an idea to just do a video on how to get the mounting strip out of the packaged molding. Sounds like you have a cool Camaro.
so why did you not finish the process??
Do you know the measurement from the quarter/rocker seam to the lower hole's?
That's far better than just "good work" 👌👌
320 is too rough for runs. I would have started with a 1000 grit then 1500 and end with a 2000 grit. Next I would have wiped all the sand off. Prime. Let dry then repaint and I'm done
Any painter that says he never got a run is either lying or he hasn’t done much painting
If ya lazy enough you can lick the run with your tongue back up while the clear coat is still wet. Not the best taste but whatchu gonna do. Awesome vid!
I actually drooled on my shirt I was salivating listening to it and looking at it
WOW much better than a razor blade ! THX
Thanks for the positive feedback! It really does work.
I’m working on some runs on a single stage can I do this same method? Thanks for your video.
It works the same on single stage. However, there is a chance that the pigment could pool and not be uniform throughout the run especially with metallics settling; solid colors will have better results. In that case you would still see the run even though it is sanded out. It is certainly worth trying to sand and polish it out before respraying.
Thank you for the advice, I was able to get them on without leaving dents in them like my old ones. Very helpful!
Thanks for the good feedback! I'm glad it helped.
Small square razor blade right on the run itself, scraping it not trying to cut it. Very controlled right on the run itself. Till it gets to the same height as the rest. Finished with fine grit. Buff
I use a paint stick with glazing putty
That is scary!
Great instruction on trim install and proper alignment.
Very clean and professional video. Thx
Thanks, some good pointers there.
Surprised you didn't wet sand it with that size grit.
Very nice work
nice
Now that's a run. Thanks for the information 👍
Thats where experience kicks in, i would not jump in with that course of a sand paper. 🫡
Thank you for sharing will have to try this. Which three step buffing compounds will you use afterwards to match the shine? I’ve been getting swirl marks that I can’t get get rid of 😀 Thanks in advance
3D ACA 500 Xtra cut with wool pad, 3D AAt 501 with coarse foam pad, then 3D AAT502 with fine foam pad. OR 3M 36060 with wool pad, same with foam pad, then 3M 06094 with medium or fine foam pad. 3M 06068 ultrafine on fine foam pad. All compounds and pads are on Ebay if your local supply doesn't have it. 3D is available in smaller quantities on Ebay so it costs less and it works great for me.
You can also spray a "fog"/ "guide" coat with a rattle can in a different color so you can see high and low spots.. I worked in a custom fab shop and we did that for a show finish
Great video. How would a long sanding block do? My issue is on a hood that’s hanging vertically, and the runs are at the top (front-end) of the hood.
Thanks for liking the video. If the run is more like a waterfall instead of icicles, take a 6 to 12 inch dura block or something similar with 320 dry stickit paper to sand it out. Just be careful that not too much surrounding clear is taken off so you don't sand through to the basecoat. If it is mostly icicles, sand out each individual run with a small bondo spreader as in the video. Once each individual run is sanded down then take a longer block with 320 across the whole length followed up with 500 on a hard acrylic or polycarbonate block. It needs to be thoroughly set up to work best. When runs happen there are three options; Do nothing, sand it out and respray, or try to sand it out and polish it. Sanding and polishing works most of the time if you are patient and saves a lot of $$$ compared to a respray.
Very helpful Thank You 🙏
Thank you for the tip , I'll use this method in future.
Looks great!
Omg best way I have found !! Thank you so much for ur video!!
Thanks for the good feedback. I'm glad it helped!
So after wetsanding up to 2500 and then polishing, the door will be perfect or will there be a new clearcoat spray needed?
If you successfully sanded and polished without going through the clear, there is no need to respray clear. Sometimes an outline of the run or ghosting around where the run was can show up later. In that case make sure the clear is fully cured and then lightly sand with 1500 or 2000 on a hard acrylic block then repolish.
This guy is trying to ruin everyone car.
Great info....💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
I have already done this method not with a Bondo spreader but usually I just take a wet or dry block for wet sanding and I usually just put about four to six hundred great sometimes 800 and usually I'll finish it off with about 1000 and 1500 Grit but it's still a risky situation I've tried paint sticks I've tried a lot of different things I got a vehicle now that I got to get the runs out and I usually don't get runs but I wind up trying a new clear it look like it was sticking everything was good there my last coat I start seeing runs in the quarter panel and both front fenders I hate runs runs is a redo in my opinion but if you can Master this technique and get it usually I will take a marker silver or black and I will Mark the run to know where I'm at and then a lot of tables I'll mark around the perimeter of the run while I'm sending so when I start to get down when I start to not see that black or silver marker no more that surrounds the run I know that I'm right there flat with the rest of the adjacent panel
It’s been 7 days since I applied the clear coat and have some runs. Can I sand the runs out now? It’s been 60 degrees or warmer every day inside my garage .
Give it a try. If it is gummy or doesn't sand good sit it outside in the sun if you can. Hope it goes good for you.
Bob Ross vibes. Lol. Thanks bud this helped a lot. Keep it up
Glad this helped! Thanks for the good feedback!
That 496 has the 302 emblem from the Z28s. Nice detail.
Hey I learned trick to take out the runs while still wet. I let the clear get just a little tacky, and then I take a new strip of masking tape and lightly press it down on the run and pull it up removing the run and leaving behind a flat patch of clear. Then I just continue with my regular flash times and coats. Sometimes I'm able to get a level surface but usually it's a little higher but with no run. Easy to sand with the surrounding clear.
Dude thank you so much! I stumbled on your comment just in time before the coat got too dry and was able to save myself a ton of work. Absolute legend.
Genius. Will keep in mind!!
Well ain't this a promising combination of comments 😂 Thanks for the tip man, looks like it's good to go!
I wish I would have caught my run soon enough to use your advice.
I did the same thing, i wet sand mine with 500 and then 1000 and 2000
Next time dnt go lower then 1k and work up 2k,3k never go lower then 1k ,I bet it took you forever to polish back
Any reason why you didn't wet sand?
If you dry sand it cuts faster ,& wet sanding would take more time to smooth out
CONFIRMED: This method will save time perfecting your paint jobs
Yes it does. Thanks for your feedback
Lay Piece of masking tape gently over it lightly run gone .
Wow make cars great again!
This guy's the Bob Ross of Auto finishing.
Agreed, was thinking the same thing. Much calmer than me in the shop working on a run or sag.
@@carolinadoublej 👍