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How i can find the aluminator motor? 😢

Timing chain plactics. On a ford. Gotta love em!!

That’s Ford brand Peanut Brittle

You know…. You could have pulled the oil pan before you pulled the engine….just saying lol

Its worst when you cant find anything after you pulled it…😂

Love how you don’t say any of the sizes you use 😶‍🌫️

I hate that engine

It’s alright it will buff

Hi john can you rebuild my 96 Cobra?

Good job John🙌

Cool. I also use mine to refill flat aerosol cans using a schreader valve cut out of a bicycle inner tube (90 psi max). It is also perfect for bicycle tires. My car always has perfect tire pressures.

Hoping for a response givin the age of the video, but on freedom racings website the show a p# for exhuast side and a different p# for intakes.. to me i dont see why as it appears either one should do both intake and exhaust as it also appears thats what you are doing in the video. Greatly appreciate a response!

Hoping for a response, i noticed on the freedom racing website it calls for one p# working for the intakes and another p# for the exhaust. Tell me if im all wrong but i dont see a reason for 2 different tools, looks to me it should work on both sides. Also seems to be thats what you are doing as well. Greatly appreciate a response!

Niceeee

🔥

Need a mustang ii ghia shirt

If they build them, They will sell like HOTCAKES!

Will a 4.6 cv interceptor intake work on these aviator engines?

That’s sick!!

Do you think ptv clearance would be an issue using this 262 cam on pi heads swapped to a npi block?

Hi John, what’s the part number on your boundary, I’m building a teksid, with forged crank, out of an MMR 750hp cobra block, I did have the crank balanced (FYI), the crank won’t fit through the front of my boundary. The tabs on the face of pump are too tight, basically makes the hole too small. Thanks for any info.

They are good and helpful on certain lines I have some different brand but were hell on my fuel lines coming from the pump. Fuel lines were clean no rust little dirty not bad at all for a 28 year old car and a fuel pump and lines that hasn’t been touched for that long but they were giving me hell struggling trying to take both lines off not sure why they weren’t working I was doing everything right. So I had to go to autozone and rent there tool kit used the metal 3/8 lines came right off

😉

Looking like a tank John 💪

Do you know what mid pipe was used on the car? Looking for an x pipe for my 95 R

yeah im lost is this a joke video or likeeeeee i dunno

What kind of wheels are thoes ?

I got a 98 mustang I was doing a 5.3 stroker I used these cams with the p.I heads and Trickflow intake manifold. Or cobra intake manifold

So do you rebuild 4.6 4v motors at your shop?

Even new adjusters need to be bled out? Shouldn’t they be soaked and filled instead?

So when youre installing Manley rods into a 4v do you have to take out all 4 Cams?

My fav Ford....and I don't like Ford

I'll never use Felpro head gaskets again. Failed after only 600 miles. Also it is very important to re-torque the studs/bolts after initial install as they do stretch. Good idea to let them set for 24 hours, back off 1/8 turn and re-torque. Can't believe this wasn't mentioned in this video.

Do Manley rods come with those bearing things

Let us know how the Fel Pro gaskets hold up over time. They’ve been failing on me and others quite a bit in the last 2-3 years (pandemic era) and seems that they haven’t made any strides to recover from that issue..

We’ve seen some hot rod engine builders use “ketchup” as assembly lube. Can you confirm or deny this practice?

Down to race

That’s the pushrod motor too right ? The good one of the bunch ….

Cars are fucking dog shit whatever they are. None of the manufacturer's help themselves, see it day in and out

Great design

What is this

When you were prying the crank forward, I don’t think you should be prying on the cap with the thrust bearing in it. That defeats the purpose of the prying.

lol not a mustang a PONY

do you still need to remove cam followers if you have the crank set at the right position before pulling timing components off?

Are there any positive displacement blowers that work with the teksid block knock sensors? I want to add knock sensors to a Termi cobra with MS3Pro standalone

Arp says to have at the very least one thread of the stud sticking up past the nut.

When you say the cut it's on the thrust bearing faces towards the crank, a lot of people are getting confused thinking the cutouts face toward the front of the engine where the majority of the crank is. I don't know why they don't just get the Chilton's but a couple if them were pulling the motor working a week. Not saying it was your video specifically, but thanks for the vid, it's a vital part of the build.

I have a 78 King Cobra black as well. I'm thinking hard about converting over to five lug suspension and using 15-in "gold snow flake" jeep wheels on it.... (You habe any thoughts)? -- of course pit COBRAS on the jeep center caps.

I have question will removing the cam follwers and alone be ok or do I have to remove the lash adjusters as well? I’m doing timing on a 4.6 4v 01 cobra !

I have a carbed 4.6 DOHC and I am curious where I should run my timing curve. My timing is dead on, I just can't seem to find any info on where these engines are happy as far as my curve goes. I have it set at idle to 15° and curves up to 26° at WOT. Any advice guys?