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That’s creative 😂 My honest first thought was “high?”

Agreed! I’ve enjoyed the 5.7 every time I’ve driven it. I plan to drive it till it dies and then just fix it again like you said

It’s the same transmission. All the information you’ll need to do your ‘04 is covered in the video & video description. Should turn out awesome!

Yep

Awesome! The 05 should be pretty much the exact same thing I did but possibly different part numbers for the ABS and PCM. I’m pretty confident I’ve figured everything out now and will be doing a 10k mile follow up video sometime soon. Will definitely include a couple different ways to get the cruise control working too! I realize my video really skips over a lot of disassembly and reassembly details, so I hope to get a full-blown step-by-step published. Step-by-step was never my intent here, I really just wanted to include the key steps and show it could be done somewhat easily. I figure, anyone can google taking out a radiator, battery, intake resonator etc. hope my vid helps you out though!

I just remembered, I think the 05 uses a throttle pedal with the throttle position sensor right at the top of the pedal rather than running a cable to it under the battery and through the firewall. Just a heads up

Different places at different times… I would be open to the possibility if you’re serious

@ I’m very serious

I have an email address in my channel bio. Send me an email and we can discuss it

@@Jonathan-Vasquez I’m having trouble finding the email

@@Itsjay710 seems it only shows in the desktop browser - jrvsyt@gmail.com

Absolutely! Awesome to hear that from a CPA. I have a couple friends that are about to be CPAs and have a lot of respect for them

I would imagine it’s similar but am honestly not sure

The harnesses are very different. You’d have a lot of careful re-wiring to do. The 5.7 has the engine bay harnesses separated into two: one directly on top of the engine and the other kind of around the engine plugging together at the two points next to the intake manifold behind (and driver’s side to) the throttle body. The 4.7 doesn’t use this 2-part harness. The 4.7 engine bay harness goes straight to everything. Better switching them out and avoiding potential electrical problems attempting to re-wire

​@Jonathan-Vasquez Damn that sucks, cant find a hemi by me at all, might as well LS swap it, thanks.

I’ll work on it and will keep you posted

@@Jonathan-Vasquez Thanks man.

Thanks! The book I used is just the wire diagrams and it’s linked in the description. You should be able to download it from there. I hadn’t thought of making lego instructions to do the swap but I might very well do it!

@Jonathan-Vasquez I'm working on a torsion bar delete for the 02 to 05 ram 1500's. Basically reinforcing front shock mounts to enable strut placement, therefore eliminating the torsion bar.

Is the goal to bulk up the suspension?

@Jonathan-Vasquez Basically, struts make working on front-end components much easier. Replacing a ball joint, for example, when struts are involved, easier. With torsion bars, those need to be removed. So, you have to mark the exact location of the bar to it's lock down point to ensure proper tension to achieve the proper ride height of the front of the truck. Or if you have to replace a front cv axle, the torsion bar needs to be removed first. It's really a pain in the ass. Also, if you wanted to do a suspension lift on your truck, there are more options for that with struts, while still retaining ride quality They have kits to do a torsion bar to strut conversion for chevy trucks, but nothing for Dodge trucks.

I’ve removed both of my CV axles without messing with the torsion bars. It was pretty easy. I don’t believe they need to be messed with when doing the ball joints either, at least not in my experience. So that’s interesting 🤔 I think it’s awesome the torsion bars can be so easily adjusted to change the ride height of the front end and I think it was designed that way to account for different weight of the front end with varying engine sizes and 2WD/4WD options. After the swap, I turned the adjusters for the torsion bars to raise the front end 1.5 inches. Hemi weighs more. I agree on the lifting limit though. The stock torsion keys limit lift in the front end while keeping ride comfort and I’ve read about the lack of aftermarket options for Dodge with torsion bar kits. Cool that you’re working on a solution for it 🫡

I would expect it to be very similar to how mine went as long as you work with parts from the same year. You will probably also need a transmission

Thanks, glad the video helps. 5.7 is the easiest to do, for the other engines you’ll need the transmission too. My opinion on the 1500 is that a 5.7 balances mileage and power pretty well. It’s up to you though. Thanks for the feedback!

I’m 99% sure the answer is yes

No WAY I just realized it was the check in sheet from class! Haha!

Since the 2007 and 2003 are a different generation (3 and 3.5) the dash harness is likely different and the wiring to the starter may be different. The best swap components for a 2007 would be 2006-2009. For my 2004 it would be 2004-2005 with the least effort, and 2002-2003 with some tweaking.

I’m not sure if I’m reading this correctly, did you use a 2007 engine harness and PCM with a 2003 engine? Or all 3 components from 2003? The battery in my truck was low on charge so when I went to start it the next morning it wouldn’t start after starting it the first couple of times the night before. It just needed a jump and to run for a while for a good recharge. My gauge cluster wasn’t showing anything except the mileage when it was dead so that sounds similar. Hope you got it up and running.

Yes! The 4.7 and 5.7 transmission is the exact same hardware. They are called 45RFE and 545RFE, respectively, but are identical in construction. What changes is the programming such as the shift points when you plug in a different PCM. So, the 5.7 bolts right up to the transmission.

@@Jonathan-Vasquez thank you 🫡

​@Jonathan-Vasquez 02s were 45s...from 03 on they were all 545s

Some unbelievable amount, I’m sure. A normal labor rate is around $100/hr, multiplied by my rough estimate of 60 hrs I spent that week it’s $6000 in labor alone. And there would have to be time figuring it out since it isn’t a standard job. Rather then just replacing a part, they’re re-installiing almost all of the exterior electrical and having to make sure it functions correctly. (Some mechanics please chime in here!)

​@@Jonathan-Vasquezokay I got a 2002 doge ram 1500 magnum 3.7 single cab short bed and I went to junkyard pulled out a 2005 doge Dakota 4 door quad cab slt rwd SB got my old one out took flywheel off the new one went to trans to if it will line spun it around the torque converter to see if it lines up but it's an inch off the holes so I took both flywheels spun it around on the ground something I'm stuck don't know what to do everything else lined up and will plug in but the fly wheel I need help please please please bills are do no job and it's all I got and I don't have anyone to help me I don't run around the people I use to change of life

They use a different transmission so you’ll need a transmission as well. This is why I stressed making sure compatability was good

@@Jonathan-Vasquez the plat that goes in-between trans and engine line up perfectly i was thinking about going to auto parts store see if I can get a flywheel that will line but okay I thank you bud have a blessed day or night

@@Jonathan-Vasquez o and the plugs are different on trans is different than mine the Dakota are bigger than the one on mine

I got my 5.7 for $1,500 from a guy whose truck was t-boned. I got to see it run before buying and it only had 94,000 miles. That was through Facebook Marketplace. At the full-service junkyards they were selling for almost $3000 or more in some cases. I was quoted $2,800 by another shop. These were used at about 130,000 miles. If you pull one from a junkyard yourself it will normally cost you $500-$1000 but remember: there’s a reason it’s in the junkyard. It could be damaged. If you can’t find a good running one like I did, there is also eBay ($2000ish) or remanufactured ($5000+). Do some looking around. You can probably find a deal!

@@Jonathan-Vasquez ok thx

I don’t know. It’s probably very similar but you’ll have to do the research. My schedule is booked. Good luck!

This is technically true, but with some issues. I once read about someone in Germany running a 5.7 off a 4.7 setup like you’re saying but the issue was the programming for the crankshaft and camshaft timing was incorrect (and maybe some other sensors). You may be able to flash a 4.7 PCM with 5.7 programming (maybe) but to get everything to work properly and run any additional/different wiring correctly is very difficult. It can be done, and I considered doing it, but with 5.7 harnesses available at a scrapyard for $50 and a couple hours time, the minimization of variables that could go wrong is 100% worth it. It would cost significantly more time to be sure all the wiring is good if you use a modified 4.7 wiring setup. I also wanted to keep my truck completely stock to retain its value. My engine may not match the VIN on the door, but the build is a stock build

Systems can be modified and implemented like you’re saying for sure though. I got rid of my manual 4x4 shifter and installed the electronic 4x4 dial switch (switch, module, wiring, and transfer case) simply to give me the footspace on the floor because I make long drives. Like this hemi swap, there was no clear documentation on the internet on how to. I just used the wire diagrams and traced the wires on a scrapyard truck to map it out and do the install. $300 worth of parts and I’m loving it. If you get a 5.7 working properly on a 4.7 harness, definitely document it and share it on youtube! People will be impressed and enjoy it

@@Jonathan-Vasquez that is where you are 50% correct I ran it with the 4.7 pcm and wiring while I waited to go to the junkyard to get the right 5.7 harness and computer and it ran fine no additional programming or anything just hooked the pedal to a ghetto manual 5.7 throttle body me and my buddy fabricated didn’t have any issues other than it probably wasn’t being ran efficiently and fueling might’ve not been proper and it’ll work fine until whoever is doing the swap has enough money or whatever to get the pcm and harness

Great job then!

@@Jonathan-Vasquez yeah it was experimental I plugged in all the sensors and everything and it somehow worked and I was like well this works and I drove the truck for a little while like that

Ls loverboy 😂

I don’t know but you can find out by checking wire diagrams or physical comparison to a hemi of that year

My 2011 4.7 has almost 300k

@lavarunner5057 Damm, that's alot. I've been taking good care of my 4.7 but I think the dude before me skimped out on basic maintenance.

My 04 4.7 is at 283k miles. Engine is getting tired but still very reliable.

They should be identical engines except I’ve heard the starter motor is on the opposite side. You may need a Ram starter to account for the opposite shape

130 lbs

Did u do er real gud

Most PCMs from a scrapyard aren’t going to have SKIM equipped at all because SKIM was only used on the Laramie trim. Since mine is a Laramie and had a SKIM I got my 5.7 PCM’s VIN re-written with the VIN my truck came with (that is also in the SKIM) and then my keys automatically worked because the PCM and SKIM both showed the same VIN. Most locksmiths should be able to re-write a VIN because most scan tools over $1k do it. Locksmith shops usually have the fancy $3k+ ones. If they can program keys, their scanners can re-write the VIN in the PCM too. I’ve also used the Autel MS906 scanner to re-write my VIN. Hope this helps!

I would grab the PCM, SKIM, and ABS all from the same truck if you can because they’ll all show the same VIN, then all you have to do is reprogram your keys. That’s usually a few bucks at the locksmith

What fuse box did you use the 5.7 or can I use the 4.7 fuse box? Also can I remove the fuel and evap line without removing motor at the salvage yard?

I used my 4.7 fuse box, it’s identical. Yes, you can pull the fuel & evap line without removing the engine. I pulled it over top of the driver side valve cover after taking the intake manifold off. There’s a little clip on the bellhousing with two bolts you can see in the video

When removing the cruise control module under the battery box it ties into a t. I have deleted it but the other end of the t goes into the firewall under the wiper cowl and I have researched and found it's called the vacuum reservoir. Did you delete yours or just change the t into a coupling going into the brake booster ?

Good to hear!

@@Jonathan-Vasquez 4.7 head blew and i been wanting to do this but really didnt know what i had to get and replace

Me too on the wanting to do it for a long time. I wanted to for 5 years and finally decided to go for it. I learned what all I needed to do at the scrapyard on a junk truck and seriously did my homework. I didn’t know for sure it would all work out because I didn’t have a video like this to reference which is why I made it! It’s a good list of parts you’ll need but once you have them it’s 100% possible and very rewarding

There seems to be a lot of unclear info out there on this 4.7-5.7 swap for 3rd gens so this clears things up and I bet a lot of people in similar situations will be a bit more confident putting out the time/money to do it knowing it will work

Because people don’t know how to manage the proper maintenance on em , you can easily find 4.7 at 300000+ miles while the hemi at 150k already has a wiped out cam

Agreed. My 4.7 never failed me in 5 years and I put it through good use. I think they’re solid engines, just lacking power for that size of truck and especially if you do consistent hauling. It goes both ways though. My Dad’s 5.7 has 220k on it and still runs like a dream. Maintenance and operation are key

The 4.7 is a sound engine for reliability if they aren’t abused and driven like a race car, and are well maintained the only thing that kills those engines are lack of maintenance and if you find a way to overheat them they hate it and that’s what the problem is with them never had a real problem with mine….but I did upgrade to a 1 ton 6.7 Cummins so the 4.7 is the backup now plus I’ve heard more complaints about the 5.7s than I’ve heard about the 3.7s & 4.7s except for them being a little sluggish

Cool! No problem

Yes, 3rd gen 1500s came with several gas engine sizes. This one was a 4.7L

@@Jonathan-Vasquez interesting

​@Jonathan-Vasquez they came with 5.9 gas and cummins diesels too

@@MidnightPolaris800 yeah the magnum v8 but honestly not a huge dodge guy i thought they stopped that with the 3rd gens, clearly not lol

I don’t know of any pre-med degrees that require engine work or welding

​@@Jonathan-Vasquez😂

This point has been made several times so I’m working on something for step-by-step. It will be a bit before I get something better put together but it’s in the works