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Thanks for your comment. Im glad it was helpful. Kind regards & Best wishes.

Thanks for watching the video. Nice to know it was useful. I decided not to use the vertical piece. Id suggest just using the Y bracket, the hold down brackets & the Z bracket. These seem to be effective without the X piece which is time consuming to make. Another guy did it better with a fitting and a vertical rod of metal. The fitting slides on the rod. th-cam.com/video/Yl032eD3_IM/w-d-xo.html I think this is the better idea. Kind regards & best wishes for your 3D printing.

Thanks for watching & for your comments. Ive seen the designs with bearings Most of the ones I have are just a basic metal prong but maybe the K9 should have something that runs more freely due to the fact the frame will be pulled if it has to pull the filament too much like in the example of the retractions pulling it about. So too just with the simple extrusion of filament normally. I do think the printer can benefit from a more freely running filament holder. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thanks for watching & for your comment. The designs are all on thingiverse. The link is in the description. For the X piece, I think is done better here: th-cam.com/video/Yl032eD3_IM/w-d-xo.html. It is easier to make. Kind regards & best wishes. Happy 3D printing!

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez Thanks for Your Links ,Will check them out! Cheers! Looking forward to your Next Videos . Thumbs up!

Thank you for your comment. Kind regards & best wishes.

It should mean improved overhangs. I did look at improvements made after I made the change to having the fan but I cut it from the video. The overhangs are improved but I also changed the slicer from Cura to Prusa Slicer and was concerned that I didnt confuse the outcome of the different slicer & profile with improvements from the fan. I have yet to test it properly back with Cura new fan off and fan on. Also the final version bracket is slightly lower on the position. Really in truth I need to print out the final version. It will be coming up. Im currently looking at using Octoprint and that should be exciting. Thanks for your interest. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thanks for your kind comment. The adjusters are all stock actually and original spec from the factory. They may have changed the design since I bought mine which was roughly 1 year ago. Kind regards & best wishes.

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez Yeah mine is a little newer and has small black gear like knobs

@@3DMaker2024-i Thank you for the information. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thanks for your comment. The thing is the stock fan is on all the time & cannot be controlled in the slicer software. The 2nd socket (called Fan 1) can be controlled. It can be turned off altogether or throttled. So its more controllable. I might actually stop the stock fan and block the exit so that the other fan will be the only one. I haven't done any experiments to check how the print is affected. I only did one print so far with it. Ive also again updated the design to lower it slightly and hopefully it will now have an additional improvement. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thanks for your comment & watching the video. Im glad it was useful. I decided not to use the X channel piece because it was too fiddly to install and stopped proper access to the printer. It seems a good trade off not to use it. I don't know if you'd consider posting your own design on Thingiverse. I think people could benefit and it helps the community as a whole. Kind regards & best wishes.

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez It is on thingiverse, The links are in the description on my video.

@@3DMaker2024-i Thanks. I watched your video just now. Thanks for giving the channel a mention!. Looking at your set up, are you using Octoprint? I have just started trying to use Octoprint but the hot end temperature is not reported correctly. If you don't mind me asking, what does your temperature show? Kind regards & best wishes.

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez Looking at Octoprint right now, using 180c & 210c target temps. The temperature tab shows correct temps, as does the M105 command in the terminal.

@@3DMaker2024-i Thanks. Mine is problematical on temp. I'll have to see what can be done with it. Im glad I know that it does work with others. Kind regards & best wishes. Great video BTW.

Thank you for your comment. I printed 3 on the CR10 and 1 on the K9. The yellow one was printed on the K9. The print in yellow PLA was strong enough. Its Elegoo PLA from Amazon. There's a link in the description. It prints well on the K9. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thank you for your comment. I have decided not to use the vertical piece for the X axis which is difficult to make and difficult to place effectively. Only the Z, Y & base brackets seem necessary. I have not shown a print in a video yet. I can only recommend the K9 now if the budget you have is very limited. There are other printers which are significantly better and can be bought for $100 or there abouts eg the Kingroon KP3S or The Tronxy Crux 1. These are good printers for a very cheap price and also the Bambu Lab A1 Mini which is under $200 and is one of the best printers ever made presently. It is in a class of its own. Should your means be in the $100-200 bracket the Bambu Lab A1 Mini is the absolute top recommendation. The Easy Threed K9 is of acceptable quality for a person with a very limited budget. Kind regards & best wishes.

You could post a query on Facebook on the group for the EasyThreed printers. They may be able to help. Its better to explain exactly what the problem is and then take photos to show if you got any print, what the print looked like. Kind regards & best wishes

Your extractor/nozzle is probably too close to the printer bed. Ideally the filament should be applied like a very thin string of toothpaste that still grips the surface. There's 3d printing forums on Reddit with excellent resources on how to level your printer bed while it starts printing.

@@Peannlui Thanks for contributing.Hope fully the person can get their problems resolved. Id like to do something about creating a community etc but I do already find having the time to do things difficult so I'm not sure.

Thank you so much for your comment and watching the video. I will be making more videos for the K9. I have a lot planned. I really like the printer. It prints great. With the addition of the brackets it does become much more stable. In my next video I'll look at using squash ball feet for the printer. If its clamped to a board it gets a bit noisy but the squash ball feet make it quiet again. Kind regards & best wishes.

Sorry you had these difficulties. Its hard to provide support but there is an EasyThreed Reddit. You can post the problem. Generally printer companies don't offer support. Premium machines maybe yes but not on the budget machines. Its normal unfortunately. If you can explain what went wrong, I can try to help but a forum would be your best bet. People are very helpful. There are also a multitude of forums on Reddit for general 3D printing and I'm sure someone will be able to help. The main thing is to carefully explain the problem and symptoms you have experienced with the machine. The config file is on the SD card. I think its hidden deeply in sub folders etc and isn't easy to find.The file is in Manual, video, software/Slicer Software, video, manual/For Mac/Cura Mac, video --- prints quality good This is as it appears on my SD card supplied with the printer. I note you've advised you are using a Mac. Cura should run on your Mac. It can be obtained from the Ultimaker Cura website: ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Kind regards & best wishes

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez thank you 🙏🏿🙏🏿🙏🏿

Yes. Ironing is on. Other settings too. Walls 1 and extra infill walls. The walls going right up to the surface create gaps. There is only 1 wall which is the minimum possible. Adding walls in the infill makes the model strong but the walls don't go right up to the top so there are no gaps that extend to the surface. I did go into it in one of my other videos. I will add a link. The video was long & covered a lot plus that. Ill edit my comment later with a link. Kind regards & best wishes.

I'll take that. Seems cool.

Thanks for watching & subscribing. Kind regards & Best wishes.

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez thank u

whre i download it

@@sagitario9295 it should be on your SD card if you do not have it on your SD card, I wouldnt bother downloading it. You would be better with Ultimaker Cura. Its s a much better software. I have tried the EasyThreed website but I get constant virus warnings. It might no longer be safe. I think Cura is the best option. You should find a configuration file on your SD card to configure Cura which you can use with all versions of Cura.

Thank you for watching the video. My printer doesn't like printing more than one instance of a model. It causes issues with print quality like excessive stringing but I accept I could tune the temperatures more. I just usually use the default preset that Super Slicer uses for printing without question. Since I modified the printer with a 1mm nozzle the presets don't work as well. I have to use presets for a .8 nozzle which may not be optimal. It prints very fast, very strong. With 1mm its fast but loses quality. Generally I print larger objects so speed is more important than quality. It should likely be printed on a printer with a .4 nozzle to get the best quality. Im so glad you were able to use `DSM. I tried FreeCad as well. DSM is much easier. DSM is very easy to learn by trial & error. Im totally self taught but also followed tutorials. Hopefully you should be able to get on better with it. I will be doing more projects coming up. Kind regards & best wishes.

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez I am self taught too and still learning some stuff from watching your video's. I watch others too if I find a problem that I can't figure out. I use Cura 5.6.0 for the slicing and it upgraded to 5.7.0 and my printer stopped placing hte pla on the bed. I tried all sorts of settings and tried adjusting the z offset and nothingh worked. I uninstalled 5.7.0 and reverted back to 5.6.0 and found it was just as bad as the 5.7.0. Someone told me in a forum the updates write a patch in a copied part of hte last version and still uses the settings. I found hte original setting on my computer as it was dated hte date I installed it and reinstalled that one and everything was great. Printing has beed good since. I did use a lot of filament trying to sort out the problem with 5.7.0 though. If I could find a decent slicer which is just as easy to understand as cura, I think I would be happier. Cura is easy to understand and follow. Carry on with the vids I love learning more from you. Regards. Ian

@@ianallen2 You could try Prusa Slicer. Its pretty much similar to Super Slicer. I use Cura, Prusa Slicer & Super Slicer. They have different qualities. Principally I use the different ones to keep separate for different printers. I would heartily recommend Prusa Slicer if you are using an Ender 3. I have my Ender 3 running with Prusa Slicer. They are definitely worth the learning curve if you wish to try them. Each of the slicers have advantages and disadvantages. Most are available free. I normally use the free ones. I did try almost all of the free ones at some time but now use the 3 mentioned. If you choose to try Prusa Slicer, there is a set up wizard and you can choose the appropriate profile for your specific printer. Prusa have made these profiles available and they are ace IMHO. Quality is super right off the bat with little customisation needed, however you may find that Cura is better in some circumstances for some prints and these others better in others. The great thing is that because they are free you can have both or more. Whatever suits. I will be doing more with DSM coming up. I will go for a bit better quality next time. The CR10 likes single items when it will do not bad quality. I just did a box that was about 8 by 6 inches and about 6 inches tall. That was the long print I mentioned (16hrs). It worked great. Still not perfect quality but acceptable. It works but not the perfection that some like. Thanks for your comments and watching of course!

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez Installed and they dont have the Ender 3 V3 SE. I think I have to go with either the Ender 3 V2 or the CR10.

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez Even on my printer, it doesnt like to print morethan one item at a time. It will mostly screw up on the second print, even if htey are on the same level and very close to one another. Stramnge, but it will print two perfectly when printing one at a time.

Здравствуйте, я пишу в Google Translate, чтобы ответить. Вы можете заменить форсунку в сборе. Они доступны на Али Экспресс. Пока мне не нужно было этого делать. Это выглядит как эффективный хотэнд с точки зрения энергопотребления и механики. Я как раз собираюсь снять еще одно видео, в котором покажу, как можно укрепить верхнюю часть принтера. Сделать это низкотехнологичным способом довольно дешево. В другом своем видео я сделал подставку для К9. Я использую подставку, чтобы стабилизировать его. Это сильно меняет качество печати. Верхние изделия становятся намного жестче, а печать улучшается. Думаю, сравнение принтера с Ender 3 уместно, но K9 стоит 1/3 цены. Он также потребляет гораздо меньше энергии. Он может печатать гибкие материалы без каких-либо корректировок. Его очень легко собрать и использовать. Есть аргументы в пользу обоих. Это не замена Ender 3, но у него есть преимущества. Спасибо за ваш комментарий и за просмотр видео. С уважением и наилучшими пожеланиями.

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez мне не нужно нечего менять в сопле , просто у этого принтера 1 сопло 0.4 и если хотите поставить другие сопла придётся много поменять , про закрепить : использую подставку со стенкой и фиксирую на 2 самореза один в низ и один в стенку , на корпусах осей есть отверстия для крепёжных винтов Y и Z . самый простой способ закрепить принтер и чтоб он стоял ровно

Yes snug on the 520s

Available Locations maybe ? Looks like Unites states (US), Australia au, united kingdom, europe, japan …..i ordered mine from across seas to be sent to the US….one arrived and the other is still on the way (same one purchased off Temu directly from the merchant)

Yes, it can be done by connecting the PC to the printer and then using software such as OctoPrint (octoprint.org). I have not tried this personally because I always use and have used the SD card for the GCODE files. There is a USB cable connector on the machine and you can connect it to the computer. OctoPrint is freeware and you can of course download it. Its a topic that I have no experience of but I am definitely going to look into it after this. It looks like exciting software for what you can do with it. There is a big community for OctoPrint so I'm sure you can find support. Kind regards & Best wishes.

you can connect the printer to a computer. There are softwares to control the printer from a computer; Octoprint, for example can do this. A suitable computer is needed. It does appear to be available for the Raspberry Pi, Android, Linux , Windows & Mac. Unfortunately I can't give you support with it as I have never used it personally but there are many resources online. The printer does feature a USB connection. Octoprint is a great piece of software with an extensive community behind it. I will add it to my list of projects to explore. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to ask and I will do my best to help. Sorry I wasn't able to reply sooner Thanks very much for your comments. Kind regards & best wishes.

Yes, it has a USB printer port. Also, every SD card I have brought came with the large SD adaptor or for around $2 you can buy a USB SD adaptor.

Exactly my thought!

Hello, I had it on my SD card that came with the PC. It can be downloaded from the EasyThreed site or at least it could last time I checked. Search for "EasyThreed" online to find their support site. Thanks for your comment. Kind regards & best wishes.

Can you say if the card or the reader is broken? If it is the card, any micro SD card will do in the machine. If it is the SD card reader, you can connect the printer to a computer. There are softwares to control the printer from a computer; Octoprint, for example can do this. A suitable computer is needed. It does appear to be available for the Raspberry Pi, Android, Linux , Windows & Mac. Unfortunately I can't give you support with it as I have never used it personally but there are many resources online. The printer does feature a USB connection. Octoprint is a great piece of software with an extensive community behind it. I will add it to my list of projects to explore. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to ask and I will do my best to help. Sorry I wasn't able to reply sooner Thanks very much for your comments. Kind regards & best wishes.

Great! Glad you're getting on with it. They are great printers; for the money, unbeatable. All the best etc.

Thanks for your comments. I just found a really cheap way to improve the print quality of the K9 massively for less than $1. Ill be featuring that soon in a new video. As I have and Ender 3 & CR10 printers I can say that the print quality of the K9 for a $60 machine is just fine. Its certainly capable of making a functional part in PLA. PLA as a material can be improved by annealing which improves its resistance to temperatures above 30ºC. Kind regards & best wishes.

Is this your new printer? You were getting another. How did you get on with it? Did you print a test cube? How did it go? Im still working on the K9. I found a cheap way to improve the print quality for under £1 or $1 and I'm going to look at it I'm my next video. Also I be looking at designing & making a shelf bracket for pallet wood in PLA. You can still follow everything on the Ender 3 of course by making a larger example to fit two pallet boards for example. Ill be looking at designing for larger build volumes too. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thank you for your comment. 3D printing is a a steep learning curve. Easyware is functional or at least it can be used but doesn't offer the same options as Cura will. Cura is suitable for any FDM 3D printer, so the settings should work the same. Your SD card should have come with a little configuration file which should configure CURA and it works with 5.4.0 as well as the older version of CURA that comes on the SD card. Id Jump to 5.4.0 or whatever the latest version is. It has a wealth of features. Im currently trying to look at optimal settings in CURA for the K9. Id suggest to try looking at www.youtube.com/@filamentfriday The channel has a large amount of useful information on 3D printing in general though they don't cover Easy Threed printers. Id suggest trying a calibration cube which should give you an idea how the printer performs. Although Cura has many settings, its best to not to change too many of them unless there is a compelling reason. Thanks for watching and let me know how you get on. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thanks for sharing. I have printed a few items already upon receiving the machine initially. In regards to Cura, I have input my info by dragging and dropping, but the print froze mid-print. Not entirely sure how to proceed. @@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez

@@GameGardener Im not sure why that would happen. Ive never had any unexpected problems with the K9. I generally find that they respond well to being turned off and on again at the wall and that, normally fixes any issues. It doesn't help with the print freezing. Were you using the SD card or controlling it from a computer? I only ever have used the SD in printing. That applies to all my printers. I would try again. Perhaps change the SD card, which might be corrupted etc. Kind regards & best wishes. If using an SD card extender it might have got jogged. It might also have been a power outage. They don't have sophisticated features like resume after outage etc. Kind regards & Best wishes.

The Ender 3 is a great printer. I have the MK1 version myself. Its my go to for a quality print. You won't find better print quality. A great printer. I'd recommend watching Filament Friday on www.youtube.com/@FilamentFriday Absolutely brilliant content. Its perfect to move on to from the K9. Its good you were able to pass the K9 on to another user too, to enable them to start in 3D printing themselves etc. Kind regards & best wishes.

Why sold it . I have the creality 3v3se. And i have creality 3-3d. And i have updated the k9. You can make a new base plate. For the Printer. Know mine is solid standing. And i fixed the buildplate. For a steel metal plate. And tuned Cura for it . It is stil fun to use this small printer for small things. Most of the time your going to print big.

@@micver1091 I wanted to go with a larger printer so sold the K9. I prefer the Ender 3 V3 SE and enjoy it more. I fitted a heat bed to the K9 and LED lights to see the prints. I placed it on a wooden base with a carry handle which alsp acted as a place to mount the led's and also a micro sd extension. There isnt much I have printed that was suitable for the K9 because of the bed size.

It does come with a slicer. My video at: th-cam.com/video/xkHQ-PbDFQk/w-d-xo.html Looks at the software which should be on the mini SD card that comes with the printer. Be sure and look out for it. You can also use Cura - its another slicer thats free to download from Ultimaker. I also looked at that here: th-cam.com/video/iwyFw5QmNRg/w-d-xo.html please check out both videos. I show how to use both softwares. EasyWare is probably the easiest of the two but Cura is much more customisable. Id suggest using EasyWare to start with.

I had a short break due to other commitments but Im getting to the point where I have the time to make more videos. I did buy some TPU for the printer and Im looking forward to trying it. Its going to be exciting! I also want to make some functional items with the printer. Ill be doing some designing things using Design Spark Mechanical - 3D design software and then printing them on the EasyThreed printer. As for temperatures I normally use the default profiles in either Prusa Slicer or SuperSlicer which are spot on usually. It will be interesting on how they fare for TPU. I will bare your comments in mind for my up coming content. Thanks for contributing. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thank you for watching. I really don't think there is much difference. I didnt try the app for the 520s to see if it made any difference to the sound. The app is supposed to make them adjustable for preferences. They sound the same to me though. I do prefer the 510s because the information announcements are more meaningful. This has no bearing on the sound quality. Kind regards & best wishes.

also, ty for the tip about the extender for the sd slot.. i'm about to order one for my printer. The position of it on this has already proven to be a bit difficult to work with since i cannot see it easily.

@@eleah1316 Having the SD card extender is great due to the micro SD cards being fiddly to use & easy to misplace. It's possible also to get an adapter extender which enables the use of standard SD cards in the reader which has a standard SD card reader & ribbon cable to micro SD card plug. Thanks for watching the video & making a comment. Kind regards & best wishes.

Im sorry you had this problem. I hope you were able to get it fixed. If you have any blobs on the printer I would suggest raising the print head and running the loading sequence to heat the filament & then extrude it. Normally I clean off any blobs carefully with a tough leather gardening/riggers glove that has tough leather fingers and palms which should protect from the heat of the nozzle and can be used to clean the nozzle prior to levelling the bed. Id suggest disconnecting the printer from the electricity supply and power cycling it to see if thats effective at resetting it. Please let me know how you got on. Kind regards & best wishes.

Thanks for watching & I'm glad it was helpful for you. I was aiming to do helpful content with this channel. I'll be looking at projects for people starting out on the hobby. I found it quite a steep learning curve starting out myself so I want to help a bit with that. Ill hopefully be doing more in 2024. I have few projects in mind for the new year. Kind regards & best wishes for 2024!

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez I am very happy to join your channel. I wish you a happy new year, and I will wait for these projects 👍

@@biiibob Thanks so much for your comments. If you have thought of designing some stuff in 3D yourself there is a program called Design Spark Mechanical Explorer version which is permanently free. More advanced versions are paid but I find the free version is plenty powerful enough for most projects. Its what I use for designing. Im planning to do some content for this to get people started designing in 3D. In the mean time if its something interesting, you could download it & take a look. Best wishes.

@@NightStarLeafTech-vj3ez Thank you very much for the information 👍. I will try it over the weekend. I really want to make a model of a small car and assemble it into parts, as a kind of hobby.

I bought the 510 a year and a half ago and when I use it for more than 4 hours the pain starts As for 520, I will buy it in three days You need to wait for three months for me to tell you about the experience 🥸🥸

​@@bin_salem77 waiting for your review

Thanks for your comment & for watching the video. Download from: www.easythreed.com/h-col-1158.html Kind regards & Best wishes.