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What degrees?

Sorry to bother you after 2 years from publishing it but when you look at the manual it shows that its only campatible with :pla and tpu 4:20

I have this easythread x1 printer, can you help please, the nozzle doesn't go up or down, I have to move it myself

TLDR: cured on build plate.... 2:30

What setting did you use for temperature and speed?

Hi, are both of them clone versions? If so which exact V6 hotend version did you get to fix it inside the BMG housing, like if it was a Bowden version did you remove the pneumatic couple before putting it inside the BMG or a direct version which simply has a hole, the genuine V6 has the 1.75mm universal so it can easily be mounted with our without small bowden tube when fixing it to BMG but the clone version has a m10 threaded coupler which won't allow to mount inside BMG but will create a big hole for filament to enter when removing the m10 coupler so what did you use to guide the filament a link or a video of those products would be highly appreciated

what did you use to get the pla to stick to the bed?

Oh a glass bed for this printer is a must! All metal hotend as well. You can print bit faster is my experience.

I just started with resin and have this coming tomorrow. luckily I saw another vid where the guy compares removing supports before and after. That settled it for me. All supports off before curing.

Omg. Why you wanna cure on build plate?

You do know plastic melts right?

We have one at work and to be honest it had several design flaws as you described, the bed is real crap and the x axis as you said is not in sync, a pulley between them should have been a easy fix for creality. 2 drivers and 2 end stops the more expensive and best way. As usual with creality you buy it because you want to fix it :)

Bro😂

The best review ever... i did not test them :)

Lol, curing on build plate ...

Anyone have an STL file for the z leveling blocks? I'm not having any luck finding the same one.

Very helpful

Dimensions? How tall is it and how much space does it take up?

Never cure with the build plate wham bam or any build plate …

How long do the filters last?

wouldn't it be quicker to mix it with a plastic scraper?

What blower size should I use on this carriage? I don't have an ANET 8, but want to use it on my 3D printer.

Hey Dave! I have the same printer. For gantry leveling I use 2 identical printed blocks and put the gantry manually (motors disabled) down so that both the left and right side rests on one of these blocks. No need to grasp one side while setting the other side. Then I just raise the Z axis, which powers both motors again and then they will stay level. I do this for each and ever print. The same as what you do but maybe even easier. Hey BTW thanks or the video. Looks like the support for the bowden tube is also a good add-on. Would you happen to have the stl file around? I can not immediately find the link on thingyverse. Greetz, Nicolas

I have left resin in the vat for months, havent changed the fep and just used the smooth plastic scraper to mix the settled resin before using it again. Worked fine, print came out fine, resin hardened and functioned normally. After printing I did empty it back into the jar and inspected the fep, no problems.

What is the name or link of the driver

Very cool im thinking of getting the max i have and ender 3 v2 I think I'm ready for that bad boy lol

It's called stringing you along.

You can also try reducing the first layer cure time to allow less adhesion. I currently use 25 seconds with a mono screen.

thanks for making it simple. Nice!

Thermal shock: 1 heat plate, drop in ice water, or 2 freeze plate, drop in hot water.

I have to say this video is very pointless. You did not test the product at all and instead left us with an unbased opinion. I mean maybe that's all you had set out to do, ok, but I don't understand why you didn't simply order new screws and gave it a shot...

En.. Bevalt de MicroSwiss op de CR10 Max? Misschien ga ik het ook doen.

if the table that your camera is at is shaking the same as the one your printer is sitting on ... through away the table, and the printer, and your camera, and you..

Hey, hast du evtl. die Links der verwendeten Sachen? Danke! Can you post the links of the used components? Thank you!

hello, very good video can I ask you to please make a video with the cure settings for the petg filament. I can't print anything, thank you very much

Good vid mate

hi where can I find the power fan upgrade?

Do you have the STL part to level a gantry?

hey dave. thanks for the video. do you happen to know the threading of the nozzles for the cr-10 max?

really hot water 💧softs the resin stuck on the build plate and it’s easier to clean up after with ipa.

Is this idiot really talking about if he likes the bottle or not???

Thanks pal!

Just got my printer last week & was thinking what if left it overnight haha but you answered my question! THANKS!

I heard that you cant have it plugged in when you put the sd card in idk why or what would happen if you put it in with power but maybe that was just because there motherboard was made that way

thx right know im working on the same upgrade ! :) parts come today, and tomorrow i need to print some tensioners and holders, then put it together and test! thx for your time to make this video :)

Not a single teardown video. I'd like to know what the Z axis carirage looks from the inside, how bearings are attached to it and to the X axis, and how the bed mechanism works.

any link to the x carriage spacer?

This happened to me too. I spent a long time sanding and eventually got it clean.

Hi Dave. I have a wham bam flex plate with a pex lining and it is awesome. After every print i wipe down the plate with isopropyl and find my prints come straight off. I've used pla+, petg and tpu and haven't had any issues. After a while if i find my first layer not sticking, i use thinners along with extra fine (0000) steel wool, then again with a fresh extra fine steel wool with isopropyl. After a few run throughs in a circular motion with the steel wool, i thoroughly clean the surface again with isopropyl and paper towel. The key I've found is cleaning the plate right before a new print. I've never tried printing onto straight stainless steel but i can suggest if your prints won't come off, maybe place the steel plate in the freezer which should shrink the steel. The reason i know why it may come off after taking out from the freezer is I've used that method to change out the pex sheet and it came straight off. I tried removing the pex sheet without freezing the steel plate and i can tell you i would have been hacking at it all day. I hope this helps.