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So may i ask what type /brand of capacitor did you use at C601 ??

Thànkyou. I just learned so much good information.

hi nick...i have yamaha m2 amp...my spendor s100 has 3 inputs on back of speakers...low , mid , high...so i had yamaha m2 high and lows on channel A and lows on channel B...never any problems sounded great... now today i go to hook up a Rel sub high level red to right A+ channel Yellow to B+ channel and black to right negative A-...all of a sudden no sound from channel B...on the back I turn the left volume gain control and it workd but the right volume gain and nothing...I thought maybe the Rel sub shorted out a fuse...i took gront pannel off and can' see any of those fuses out...is there another place i don't see where a fuse may be blown out❓

Great presentation Sir. I am going to buy the meter you used to measure the capacitance. Thank you for the wonderful demonstration

Awesome video, very clear explanations of the repair. Will you be releasing a video of the 8080st amp repair? I have the same issues with bad plate amps, they are a known issue with these DT speakers.

The sonic hologram is so clever. I wonder why the inverted signal doesn’t mess with the original ear (in your example, the left) where it arrives a fraction of a second after hitting the right, again locating the speaker.

I have a orange light on the right side what's could cost that problem thanks for your time

2:25 One more option: Not a fault in the regulator, rather a short on the +18V bus dragging it down...

I was a 16 year old drummer in 1882 playing with a guitarist much older than me, who sold high end audio. He demoed the Carver Holographic Generator for me and the shop he worked at, and it blew my doors off. Unbelievable. Bucket brigade chips are commonly used in all sorts of chorus and echo stompboxes. I had no idea that was the secret behind these.

great ad fine job

After watching Mend it Mark vids, TH-cam sent me to your channel which I’m really enjoying. As a non-technical person could someone please explain to me why it’s necessary to replace the electrolytic caps? Is it because they have a limited lifespan or will new caps actually improve the performance of the amp even if the caps themselves have not yet gone bad? Thanks in advance for any explanation!

What a super explanation! Subscribed.

Wow! That thing is a Marantz inside! '90s Marantz Japan. (MJI) Basically an SR-63 with the added Carver board.

I really appreciate you posting the part replacements. Hope you’re busy, I’m booked out about 8 months at the moment. Would you mind in the future posting the device number pulled along with the replacement? The outputs can be read in the video, but I was curious what the TO92 package was. Thank you.

Nice to see a great unit like this given more life. Thanks.

Really well presented video, a joy to watch. Thank you

Outstanding informative video and a Great job!!!

Nice job Nick, as always.

That was awesome. The explanation and commentary made all the difference. Great job on the repair.

Thanks Nick! Wonderful to see you at work and staying busy.

Well done Sir...

Do a Carver m-400t cube amp.

Replacing those single-turn quiescent current- and DC offset pots with multi-turn ones would let you dial in the precise numbers called for.

Helo i have changed the two 6.8 ohm resistors still short again why??

I knew all this stuff 30 years ago when I graduated from NEI. Thanks to your videos I want to learn it all over again. We have a throw away society, nobody wants to fix anything any longer but I'm going to give it shot on my 8060 that doesn't work any longer. Thanks!

One of the things that I think technicians like you don't take into account is that a manufacturer will use certain capacitors to get a certain sound that he is aiming for. That means he may have tried many types of capacitors with many hours of listening until he decided what to put. And just because you put something with the same values ​​and the wave looks good on the oscilloscope doesn't mean it sounds the same. This is audio equipment not a TV or a refrigerator. Therefore, when you decide to put something that has the same similar values ​​but is produced by a different manufacturer, you should understand that it can affect the character of the sound.

TH-cam shoved this video in my face but i didn't want to look at amp videos yet Next minute, i end up with an amp with no bass. Had to try and remember the name lol

I have the other two amps one is failed I am interested in having You repair them.

Hi, I've got a similar issue on my Mission Cyrus one. Did you measure the output voltage under a resistive load?

Your video is very useful and gave me the notion that the ayre mxr i owned has a similar issue. I always felt that the ayre lacks bass weight and resembles little to the reviews i have read. Would you think the ayre would have something like a "c3" lurking in the unit that is hindering the bass performance. Your insights is appreciated. Thanks

5:32 That little power board, did you have to squeeze the white plastic clips to remove it, or were there screws on the other side?

Great video. I also love the little Dynascan era BK scopes. Especially the round crt models like the 1470. Sexy! See if you can score a little 1405. So fun!

Wow, brilliant repair!

Has adcom ever been good?!

It's always a treat when a new Duality video appears in my subscription feed!

If you add flux to your de-soldering wick, it pulls the solder easier, and leaves a clean pad. Great video.

From experience. I hate Adcom. I never like their sound. But then again I don't like half the amplifier's I went through other than , Spendor class a amplifier and Mackintosh 252

Why did Adcom use an electrolytic c3in the signal chain?

very good video. thank you for the explanation!!!☺

Random question, how difficult would it be to convert this to a dual monoblock? Is there space for a second toroidal there, or is there a smaller option available which can be placed side by side? Just curious.

Cool repair. Nice amp. Enough power and very high damping. 700!

I would look at using a Tantalum capacitor in that application as it will last a lot longer.

Cool! I have this amp and its 3-channel brother used perhaps 100 hours total. I bought them new and have been in the box since. I should sell.

I am a bit confused by the feedback resistor being so high at 10K ohm wirmth the other 50K ohm that would make the overall gain only X 6 or have i missed something.

Very Informative video. You must be from Texas your arm shows a map of the state.

Just found the channel today. Subscribed. 😊

Magnepans made in Minnesota 😊 Great tutorial 👌 thx for sharing 👍

Nice walkthrough and demonstration of the problem, along with solution.

Its easy to know why caps failed like that, its caused by heat you can see discolored pcbs in almost all Nelson, Adcom and Nakamichi top end amplifiers he likes to design time bombs deliverately, that amplifier also has a small heatsink in the differential pair that almost all the times (have seen that small metal thing missing in almost all of that model amplifier) and if it didnt went missing it will short ccircuit some transistor or something after the glue fail under the heat...... the same heat that caused the video capacitor fail 😅

This failure is likely caused by heat. The input mosfets run super hot, which causes eventual failure of the capacitor. You can tell how hot the board gets by how browned it is in that area. There is usually a copper heat-spreader bar installed across the two mosfets, meant to keep them thermally tracking, and dissipate some heat. It looks like yours either fell off, or it wasn't included in that particular production run. What I do is install a DIP-16 heatsink across the two of them, with thermal heatsink epoxy, and that dissipates heat better than the original copper bar, as well as thermally coupling them. Also, the heat cycling eventually cracks the solder joints, resulting in a crackling sound, a common issue with this amp. The solder joints just need a touch-up.