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Thanks! Glad you found it helpful

I'm also getting an odd clicking noise when I have AC input connected. I just decided to continue using the dedicated charger directly to the bus bars...

Interesting. Thanks for sharing

Thanks! Still holding strong with another season in the books

Thank you - I'm glad you found it helpful!

It's actually just a piece of trex decking I had laying around.

@@lifewithlonsi Awesome, do you happen to have the link to the U bolts,plate and hose hanger?

​@thlightest9827 The u bolts are just from home depot. The plate is a piece of aluminum I had in my shop, you could use anything, I used aluminum so it wouldn't rust. The hose doesn't seem to be on amazon anymore but there are a ton like it that come with the hanger, just search expandable hose. I've made similar hangers out of aluminum\steel by putting in a vice and bending

@@lifewithlonsi Perfect thanks, i’m building mine a tad different than yours. I’m utilizing 3 10”x4.5” filter housings 2 of them will be the pre filters (sediment/carbon) And the final stage will be a 10”x4.5” filter housing with a refillable filter cartridge filled with roughly a little over a pound of mixed bed DI Resin. Total project cost around $340 including hand truck, connectors, fittings etc.

@@thlightest9827 Makes sense - I have a similar setup coming into my house. Originally had 10" but changed to 20". Works well with a spun pre-filter, iron filter then carbon block. TDS coming off the well is under 200 and makes the DI resin life reasonable.

Interesting. They were fine after the initial install, I inspected the vehicle top to bottom when I took delivery including the guards, radiator protectors and wheels which I had the dealer put on. I bought my C8 from the #2 Corvette dealer in the country, they have a dedicated Corvette service team - it's not a random chevy dealer who works on a handful of these a year. That said, I guess it could be possible they over torqued the screw and they cracked it over time, but seems unlikely. My main issue was the response from the manufacture, I understand they cannot accept blanket warranty claims for all parts but given the circumstances on this one I think any reasonable person would look at this and know something's not right here.

Great! I'm glad it helped you and thank you for the feedback.

Thanks for sharing - I don't think anyone should rely on the estimated calories for any of these devices. Everyone is different and your body\metabolism will be WAY different than mine, even if we were the exact same age and weight. Muscle mass, lifestyle, fitness level etc. have a big impact on calorie burn. Sure, they can be helpful but certainly not solely relied on for decision making!

It depends on your application, check out my other videos on the Growatt for more detail but you will likely want to keep it in your case (if running completely off grid and without a bonded panel). I'm not sure how shore power hookup works on an RV but that may also be a consideration

Awesome, thanks for the feedback and glad it was helpful!

I do not have tint. I'm in NH which is generally strict on tint on front windows and will not pass annual inspection. MA is more lenient I believe but I'm not sure of the details.

On average Whoop scores about 4-5% higher. Some days are the same others have varied by ~10%. I wear the Whoop on my dominant wrist and Fitbit on the other, so that may account for some variation as well...

Hi - thanks for the comment. Yup, figured that one out! Need to post a follow-up but both inverters need a 120v input from each leg of the main panel (US).

Cheers, thanks for the comment. Well, I guess it's good to know I'm not the only one. I ended up putting factory guards back on - no issues since.

Thanks for the comment. Appears this inverter does run through an auto-detect procedure at startup and will only operate when grid tie is connected prior to power on. The manual is vague in this regard and my plan to use a switch to power on/off grid tie will not work with this functionality. I'm going to repost an update to the video. Re: the meter - There is no voltage on the AC Input terminals while I am testing with the meter, you'll notice that there is nothing wired in. That is the first thing I confirmed (off camera but should have done so on camera for the benefit of others watching - good callout)

@@lifewithlonsi Ah, my mistake. I mistakenly thought you were measuring the output terminals. With the AC input vs a switched supply, you should be OK to have the unit set the solar/battery as the primary power source and fall back to mains when they are running low or the reverse situation where mains is priority for charging and loads but left turned off at the switch to force solar/battery operation. It shoud be ok to have the mains input always connected so that the neutral/ground bond at the main panel is seen by the inverter but the power switch on the mains is set to off so that the live/hot wire does not supply power to the inverter. The critical part is likely that the neutral/ground bond must be in the same state the entire time the inverter is on, which it should be if you leave the plug in the socket. If the socket your inverter is supplied by has an AFCI/GFCI inline (at the panel or supplied by an intermediate socket) there is potential for the neutral to be disconnected if the breaker trips and this is not an acceptable thing to happen if you are relying on this circuit to provide your neutral/ground bond for the inverters and the circuits supplied by them. Check your AFCI/GFCI to see if it should be replaced with a single pole switching GFCI/ACFI or standard breaker that only switches the hot/live in this situation. Take care with the power cord wiring gauge and the gauge of the circuit wiring too as in this circumstance they will be carrying full short circuit current of the inverter, across the neutral and ground wire in the cables, should you get an earth fault until the inverters go into overload protection or a GFCI on the circuits supplied by the inverters trip breaking the fault. I know a lot of people do wire these things with a plug but in my opinion they should be hard wired. Good luck and success with your project.

No fault code when running, operates fine without ac in. It did throw a fault when it tripped. I'll have to do it again to see which code

Great, I'm glad you found it helpful. I love that shirt!

That is a good question - I do not know. My two inverters are back in operation so I cannot easily check. I'd hope there is proper separation on the backside of the PCB, especially if there is solder or metal contacts there. I'd be interested to see if anyone can check...

Glad it was helpful!

Great- Glad it could help!

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback and glad you found the video helpful!

Hi - it really comes down to your draw on the system. When I say 2 days, that is cutting all non-essential loads - I am really just running a few lights, my well pump as needed, heat\ac sparingly etc. I shut off all of my nice to haves in an effort to stretch power. Do you know your phantom load (how much power is constantly being drawn)? With all my stuff on I'm around 450w but I cut that to around 200 if I'm trying to conserve. Plus the inverters add roughly 75w to that number as well. My house pulls roughly 25-30kWh this time of year when it's business as usual, so yes, if I were to leave as is then I would likely get ~12 hours out of it.

Thanks for the comment. I know there are a variety of topics on this channel. I'm not trying to make money here, simply sharing things in my life that I find interesting and if it can help someone then great!

Did you have out before removing the screws? They should have no impact on voltage. You may need to double check your settings, I believe you'll only see output voltage when the Growatt agrees with everything (i.e. battery settings & config)

Correct, no grid-tie on this setup. That requires a lot more in terms of coordination with utility, permitting etc. Also, most grid tie systems out there will be offline during an outage - so you are left with what's in your batteries until the grid is back online, in the typical setup, solar goes down with the grid. I want my system generating solar power when the grid is down!

Good info - thanks. I've been seeing all of the new EG4 stuff come available and it looks great, I wish it had been an option when I purchased all of this but there's always round 2!

Haha. Thanks, that makes me feel better :)

That's a good point - I failed to mention in the video but we did clean the coils about 6 weeks prior. Definitely one of the things you should look at!

Good call - I'll do that in a few weeks! You can't tell in the video but I have a broken collarbone while doing this, moving around is not so fun!!

@@lifewithlonsi sorry to hear that. Great video!

These seem to work fine. I've run my house off them a few times with no issues. That said, there's a lot of new stuff out and if I were building today I might go a different route. The Eg4 inverters look interesting and I believe they are UL listed which is a plus

Just saw an email from signature solar and made me think of your comment. They have a special on a parallel kit with a wireway\breaker box that looks really cool. signaturesolar.com/eg4-13kw-off-grid-split-phase-inverter-bundle-2-x-6500ex-48-13000w-output-16000w-pv-input-split-phase-120-240vac-all-in-one-solar-inverter-system/?_hsmi=269051297&_hsenc=p2ANqtz--aDD0GA_uXTlTOqPPL5c8awc_iYIGxGRzdGHgmNUwqB_pV0KJ3eX79tR1119_lrWobiLASOuhiU10UmYdV8en6Xo1yXA

Very cool - I'm in the middle of installing a 50a inlet to backfeed my panel which I plan on using to charge my batteries (by grid or generator) to supplement my panels. Broke my collar bone with the work half done so it's going to sit a while! I'll post a vid on that once I'm back into it. Thanks for sharing, your setup sounds great.

Thanks, I need to double check but when I first setup, setting the battery type to LI disabled that option. I believe you need to set battery type to User to open it up, which I should just do.

@@lifewithlonsi You're correct. I set that up awhile back and forgot that setting forced me to enable 'User-defined'.

That's a good point. The ends are detachable, I'll mount a 140mm fan on each side and pull air through. Thanks for the tip!

My understanding is that if there is a fault somewhere and a ground ends up carrying current, it will do so back to the main panel at which point the bond will allow the circuit to complete via the bond with neutral. Having the bond in the panel ensures that current will flow back to the panel on a predicted path (normally neutral or ground in case of fault) and then complete the circuit. If there are multiple ground eutral bonds it creates a variety of paths that current could take, and have potentially dangerous and unintended current flows.

It allows the breaker to trip and kill the line, stopping the flow of the current.

If you have 100amp service to your house, all breakers past main need to be below 100amps to function aside from the main, if breaker is above that 100amps, it will not trip even if there is a short.

I've never played with an ATS but from my understanding in theory that should work. Inverter output is no different than a generator so just swapping out the source should work fine. I think the devil will be in the details on how\when you are switching and what the trigger will be - that will ultimately be up to the ATS and what it supports. Interested to hear if others have experience ecommendations on this one.

Dude! When you shift time, where do you go?

Well yes - the issue depends on your setup. On mine I have it bonded elsewhere and you only want to bond at a single point, so for me it was in my service panel not the inverter...

Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely look into those.

I'm going to try it - with battery set to LI the manual says the amp limit is disabled. I'm going to switch to User and see if that works. The bus bars are from Rysz Battery in CT. ryszbattery.com

Thanks!