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@varindersingh4495 My guess is one of two possibilities, #1 being more likely. 1. The right / passenger side spoiler has the microswitches. One or both switches are not registering, so the computer does not know what position the spoiler is in. Then it disables it. Your jiggling of the spoiler causes the switch make contact temporarily and it works for a bit. If you replace both of the switches, this might be your cure. 2. There is crud / corrosion in the mechanical assembly of the spoiler riser. You can raise, remove the spoiler, and remove the riser with 3 bolts underneath. examine / clean the chrome cylinder. You can remove the hydraulic hose and pull they chrome cylinder out of the housing and clean the cylinder and housing inside to get it sliding smoothly again if you find it is catching or has high friction. FYI, don't dismantle inside the chrome cylinder. It is difficult and spring loaded. It is VERY difficult to reassemble if taken apart and internals are probably not your issue unless you see hydraulic fluid leaking from inside. Good luck.

@@changlarry Glad it helped!

@@ArrowheadGarage Right on! Drive it like Ferdinand intended!

Very likely that you have air in the system OR you have lost some fluid that is even on both sides. Time for a bleed! New O-Rings are a good idea.

Cover your engine with a towel or blanket to catch parts & fluid. Remove the hydraulic banjo bolt from the bottom of the spoiler rams. Remove the C clips on the bottom. Then, you can lift out the spoiler with the rams. If the motor still works, you should be able to do this fix. Good luck!

I don't have all that info saved. There are 2 cylinders about 25mm in diameter on the drive side. The stroke is about 50mm. The pistons are pushed slowly by the motor turning the screw. It takes about 10 seconds to move up or down. Under the spoiler, the hydraulic cylinders are much smaller, maybe 10mm inner diameter and the stroke is equal to the spoiler lift - about 75mm. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@@neuntwelven thank you very much! These info will help us realize a realistic model :)

That is a good alternative. However it costs $1600+ and removes originality. This costs about $20 (o-rings and hydraulic fluid). Both require installation time, this might add 1-2 hours of rebuild time. Hopefully, this video makes it clear what is involved. Mine is working as new 2 years later. Thanks for watching.

Follow up to previous post: Thank you again NT for the superb video. I just completed the repair and all appears well... I have the rams in the up position checking for any leaking under pressure. I had to bleed the short hose (Left) system 3 times but it is solid now. Using your video with my factory service manual, I found an easier method to fill the cylinders. The manual basically has you reassemble the pump pack and you fill the cylinders through the holes in the end cap. As you mentioned in the video you want to ensure the pistons are fully retracted. I think the simplest way to do this is to drive the pump to the full down position once assembled and there is no doubt as to piston location in the cylinder. Works great. Other thing I figured out is that if one of the rams doesn't work, don't disassemble the whole thing to fix. Once it is together, each side is effectively an independent system so just refill/re-bleed the one that isn't working until you get it purged. Hope this helps the next person attempting this repair. It is fiddly (Circlips on the rams) but not at all difficult. Now to the other turbo cab...

Thanks. Use a 12V battery or battery charger on the two motor electrical connectors. Reversing polarity reverses direction. Alligator clip wires are helpful. Good luck.

Thanks. How do you reverse the polarity?

@@jcramey16 Positive wire to bigger connector, negative to smaller goes one direction. Positive to smaller, negative to bigger goes other direction.

Ah, thanks didn’t realize I could reverse the wires on the motor.

Fair enough. But I paid about the price of a Prius for this car. Many of these parts are the same as the standard 911 or Boxster, yet still expensive. I drive it and want functionality so paying $150 for a plastic sun visor part makes no sense to me if it can be fixed. My goal is to help people fix things if they are so inclined or maybe decide it isn't worth the effort. Thanks for watching and enjoy the ride!

Thanks! Yeah, I know about the special tool, but my budget was $20 for the project and the tool was over $40. So you can see my dilemma... But for those folks with a bigger budget, but not quite willing to spring for the $2500 Porsche Dealer rebuild, the tool is probably a good choice.

I used an automotive O-ring assortment bought online & found the best fit.

I was worried about breaking off more teeth. Possibly the ones in my jaw. Maybe when I get to my youtube "desperate for views" stage I'll try it.

Have you already removed, replaced o-rings and fluid? Did you do a bench test before putting it back in the car? If so, it sounds like you have an electrical problem that is not driving your motor. If you need to raise them to remove the spoiler, check out Jonathan H.'s and Daniel I.'s comments for raising them. Good luck.

@@neuntwelven Hi there. Managed to free up the rams. One of them in particular was almost completely ceased. Almost ready to reassemble everything now and mount to the car. New 50/50 solution has been bled of air and it complete. Bit earlier today my father and I were testing the motor itself to see if that was the source of the problem, we wired it up to the car, but it only operated when pressing the wing down side of the button on the dash. And whilst doing so some smoke came out from the motor. Do you know if the motor should wind both ways in this instance? Or should everything be assembled for the motor and switches to turn both ways? Thanks for your reply! May need to refer back to those comments when it comes to that point.

@@neuntwelven just read that the up button won’t work if the deck lid is up… that would make sense. Well fingers crossed everything goes as planned.

They realized very quickly that it was a terrible design. Hopefully yours is much better.

See comments from Jonathan H. and Daniel I. Good luck!

You can give / sell a person a fish and they eat for a day. Teach them to fish and they eat for a lifetime. This channel is about teaching people how to fish... with a pvc pipe and used fishing line... using dug up worms. No can do, but thanks for the vote of confidence!

I used an automotive O-Ring assortment. Luckily none of my other parts were damaged. There are 2 O-Rings on each piston and another 2 at the top of they cylinder - 1 internal, one external. You may find other parts in need of repair or replacement, but that was all I needed. Good luck getting your rams up!

Wideband O2 sensors will work on ANY internal combustion engine! Even your granpa's lawn mower! You just have to mount the sensor on the exhaust, run a few wires and find out how your fuel system is performing. I run it on a car with Carburetors now and am moving to EFI.

Check out Jonathan H.'s comment below about the 997 for a stuck spoiler. Another possibility is to get some long bolts the same thread as the banjo bolt and tighten the in to raise the spoiler. Compressed air might work, but holding it up may be difficult. Let me know how it works out. Thanks.

@@neuntwelven Just finished! That trick worked great, popping the spring clips and sliding the whole ram out with the spoiler. Mine will go up and down, but randomly throws a fault. I may have not bled it well enough on one side, but beforehand, it wouldn't do a thing. 2 o rings were torn, and the rest were flat.

Excellent. The video does not show that it took 3 or 4 tries to get a really solid bleed where both rams went up evenly without delay.

Sweet! Glad to help. Thanks for the 997 intel. Hopefully others will benefit from your input.

Hi and thank you for doing this video. I did as it shows in the video and now both side deploy but one only goes back a little and I have to manually push it in. Would you know what the issue could be? Could it be inside the cylinder and piston? Thanks again.

Do you have links for the parts like fittings needed?

Good luck!

No problem 👍

It would work on a hydraulic power antenna. However, in all but the most exotic of cars where originality overrides functionality, replacing the hydraulic system with a hand crank will be more reliable and cost effective.

What model? It works on a 2001 to 2008 Porsche 996 and 997 Turbo and yours falls in that range. Might require a few mods to the procedure. Good luck!

2003 Sedona. I don't have the same stop leak Will radiator stop leak work with the red oil you recommended?

Tough one. The Sedona spoiler option is a rare one indeed and should be kept in tip top shape for resale. Therefore I would have to recommend biting the bullet for the Power Steering Stop Leak. It'll set you back a pricey $10, but well worth it for your automotive investment.

Thank you for the quick reply. I don't have a spoiler. Its my passenger side door locks. The are stuck in the up position. The red oil has been leaking from the locks on my parking space for a while. I bet they are filled with air. I did a search for a how to video to fix them and yours showed up so I guess the basics are the same. Its my day drive so I plan to take things apart and replace / bleed the air out this weekend. $10 isn't too bad so I'll go with locus stop leak. Thanks again for all you help!! I hope one day to also own a Porsche.

My left ram leaking, should I replace all orings for both rams and motor and replace fluid with ATF+stop leak?

Good tip. You'd never know from my video, but I like cheap. I'll have to compare the cost to 4" of duct tape. There was a special tool available for $40 or so, but that's just ridiculous.

All good. And on the plus side you can reuse the duct tape when you're done with it. I also noticed you don't have a bench for your vise. Have you thought about getting a couple lag bolts and fasten your vise to one of those big chunks of wood to make working with the vise easier?

Luckily, the spoiler automatically retracts below 45mph and must be raised to twist for removal. I'll bet there aren't too many would be thieves who can run that fast while wrenching on my spoiler...

@@neuntwelven mine is currently stuck in the up position 😂

@@geldingmakr I would guess that your motor is not running. Check wire voltage using the spoiler button. If no voltage, check fuses. If you have voltage, you may have a bad motor. On a positive note, you may not have a leak if it is staying up!

@@neuntwelven where do I check for voltage? Back at the motor under the wing?

@@geldingmakr Yes. Two wires go to the motor on the passenger side of assembly under spoiler sandwiched in the plastic cover. Not the easiest to access, so check the fuse first (D7, 15A on mine).