thanks this is the exact info I needed! Garage builders put in walers that go to the floor of the attic, which inhibits what storage I hope to plan up there.
Thanks for sharing. The truss plans that came with my scissor truss package only show two 2x4's nailed to the bottom cords of select trusses as permanent bracing. Nothing else is mentioned.
@@foursyths I'm building in NC. On this particular site there is considerable wind coming across an open field from the north that I am concerned about.
@mashoutman I'm always a fan of making things stronger than required. 😊 it is way easier to explain why something didn't break then to explain why it was someone else's fault. Unfortunately, I have seen some instances where people claim to know what they are doing but don't. Fortunately, I have been able to trust the engineering callouts from my truss manufacturer. You could always ask them to show you the calculations. I love picking the brains of the trades. @@mashoutman
@@foursyths any suggestions on installing trusses directly next to one another? I have 2 locations where the ceiling height changes for a Dormer. Plans just show the two different types of trusses next to each other...no details.
@mashoutman I've had that before. I've simply just put them next to each other. If you're wondering about a nailing pattern to nail them together, it probably doesn't need anything.
On the engineering drawing the brace is shown on the inner strut leg, closest to the center vertical strut. On your 3D model you have it located on the middle of the three strut legs. Oversight? Different plan?
The truss bracing location will be specified for each truss in the packet that comes with the trusses. Yes, I think the concept would make more sense if I highlighted a specific truss and then showed a 3d version of the specific braces called out. Now that I look at it, it looks like I didn't even draw the other braces on that truss.
On the interior web braces why are they shown horizontally instead of at 45°s? I'd think you would want the angle for sheer strength, your roof is relying on your end kick board this way if I'm not mistaken
Good question. 😊 On this particular house, the truss manufacturer did not specify any diagonal bracing needed on the inside. I assume that any sheer value required for this project was satisfied by a combination of roof sheeting, gabel "k" bracing (that is what i call it. I think you referred to this as a kick board), and the truss blocks. I build in Utah. I haven't seen any houses needing interior diagonal bracing. Have you seen diagnals called out in the area you build in? Here is my other video about "k" bracing. th-cam.com/video/wbIY1I1Xibo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. Do you have any information for bracing a 7/12 scissor truss in a hurricane zone? (7/12 top chord and 3.5/12 bottom chord with an inside span of 42', outside span of 44', and an overall length of 44.5') Can I have the heel of the truss run past the 12" exterior ICF bearing walls 3" and install a 2"x8" as a facia board without any soffit? How would that affect the attic ventilation? Thank you in advance for your help.
Each truss package will have all of the bracing requirements for the building. If there isn't a brace called out, you won't need anything more than the sheathing on the top and the drywall on the bottom.
Usually there is "X" bracing on each end of the building truss web members and in the building center depending on how long the building is in the center of the truss along with continuous lateral bracing on the bottom chord at max. 10 ft. centers. Follow the certified truss drawing for required bracing.
Yes, you're absolutely right with "X" bracing at each end and in the center but not exceeding 20' apart. So therefore, if your building is 40' long the distances explained here is perfect, if your building was 50' long you would need 4 "X" bracing.
When the webbing doesnt match up on one of the trusses like a common truss and it calls for lateral bracing how do you brace it? Just a short block to another truss?
In this case, you would install the brace from top to bottom the whole length of the web on the inside or negative space of the truss. Laying it in a way that would form a "T" shape. Or an "L" shape. Usually, there is a call out for nailing a brace like this that would be something like 8" o.c. within 18" from either end with 16" o.c. between the ends.
thanks this is the exact info I needed! Garage builders put in walers that go to the floor of the attic, which inhibits what storage I hope to plan up there.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing. The truss plans that came with my scissor truss package only show two 2x4's nailed to the bottom cords of select trusses as permanent bracing. Nothing else is mentioned.
Yes, this will be all that is needed depending on where you live. The calculations are based on wind loads and other factors. I build in Utah.
@@foursyths I'm building in NC. On this particular site there is considerable wind coming across an open field from the north that I am concerned about.
@mashoutman I'm always a fan of making things stronger than required. 😊 it is way easier to explain why something didn't break then to explain why it was someone else's fault. Unfortunately, I have seen some instances where people claim to know what they are doing but don't. Fortunately, I have been able to trust the engineering callouts from my truss manufacturer. You could always ask them to show you the calculations. I love picking the brains of the trades. @@mashoutman
@@foursyths any suggestions on installing trusses directly next to one another? I have 2 locations where the ceiling height changes for a Dormer. Plans just show the two different types of trusses next to each other...no details.
@mashoutman I've had that before. I've simply just put them next to each other. If you're wondering about a nailing pattern to nail them together, it probably doesn't need anything.
On the engineering drawing the brace is shown on the inner strut leg, closest to the center vertical strut. On your 3D model you have it located on the middle of the three strut legs. Oversight? Different plan?
The truss bracing location will be specified for each truss in the packet that comes with the trusses. Yes, I think the concept would make more sense if I highlighted a specific truss and then showed a 3d version of the specific braces called out. Now that I look at it, it looks like I didn't even draw the other braces on that truss.
On the interior web braces why are they shown horizontally instead of at 45°s? I'd think you would want the angle for sheer strength, your roof is relying on your end kick board this way if I'm not mistaken
Good question. 😊 On this particular house, the truss manufacturer did not specify any diagonal bracing needed on the inside. I assume that any sheer value required for this project was satisfied by a combination of roof sheeting, gabel "k" bracing (that is what i call it. I think you referred to this as a kick board), and the truss blocks. I build in Utah. I haven't seen any houses needing interior diagonal bracing. Have you seen diagnals called out in the area you build in? Here is my other video about "k" bracing. th-cam.com/video/wbIY1I1Xibo/w-d-xo.html
First
Thank you for making this video. That's what I'm going to do with a double fan truss system
Thanks for the video. Do you have any information for bracing a 7/12 scissor truss in a hurricane zone? (7/12 top chord and 3.5/12 bottom chord with an inside span of 42', outside span of 44', and an overall length of 44.5') Can I have the heel of the truss run past the 12" exterior ICF bearing walls 3" and install a 2"x8" as a facia board without any soffit? How would that affect the attic ventilation? Thank you in advance for your help.
Each truss package will have all of the bracing requirements for the building. If there isn't a brace called out, you won't need anything more than the sheathing on the top and the drywall on the bottom.
Wrong title. This is a eave return.
Usually there is "X" bracing on each end of the building truss web members and in the building center depending on how long the building is in the center of the truss along with continuous lateral bracing on the bottom chord at max. 10 ft. centers. Follow the certified truss drawing for required bracing.
Yes, you're absolutely right with "X" bracing at each end and in the center but not exceeding 20' apart. So therefore, if your building is 40' long the distances explained here is perfect, if your building was 50' long you would need 4 "X" bracing.
When the webbing doesnt match up on one of the trusses like a common truss and it calls for lateral bracing how do you brace it? Just a short block to another truss?
In this case, you would install the brace from top to bottom the whole length of the web on the inside or negative space of the truss. Laying it in a way that would form a "T" shape. Or an "L" shape. Usually, there is a call out for nailing a brace like this that would be something like 8" o.c. within 18" from either end with 16" o.c. between the ends.
@@foursyths so just a block tying to another block isnt sufficent?
@@davidcla2457 both should work in a general sense. The specifics would come from the truss manufacturer
Why wouldn't the truss configuration be different? Either someone messed up at the plant big time or the installation was poor.
can I breath this air?