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I used an NTE5313

I have another video where I show how to set it with a led soldered in. But I should formalize a procedure using an oscilloscope

I don’t have any experience with Jupiter speakers, so I can’t say

… this goes to 11

Hey let me know what it turns out to be!

Thanks Karl

I would use a hole punch, like for three ring binders, but wouldn’t go all the way, so I could freehand the lead

I like ‘em both actually. I have an original Celestion Creamback from like ‘73 and the VX10 speaker blows it away in terms of brute power and lower end. I don’t understand why everyone hates this 10” speaker? It is basically setup like a Vox with the tone cut turned up to a pre-set to remove the high end crap

Then it’s probably filter capacitors that are leaking

I just got some generic stuff off of Amazon

You won’t regret the purchases!

@@voxpathfinder15r I really wish they would make a path 15 again. There's always hope......Great channel. Rock on!

@@voxpathfinder15r I wish they would make the path 15 again. I can hope..... Great channel. Rock on!

@@christiantaylor4027 someone discussed that in the Vox pathfinder Facebook group. He brought it up at NAMM with the Vox people. Their attitude was there’s no going back to regular solid state anymore. It’s either tube or modeling technology.

@@christiantaylor4027 I am happy you like the channel!

I use them in guitar electronics

Thanks!!

Thanks for the comment!

Sounds like a single coil guitar pickup issue picking up the noisier wiring in your new home. Switch to humbuckers or go to an in between position to cancel hum.

@@voxpathfinder15r All guitars I have tried have humbuckers. Hum does same with solid state practice amp. One other room has hum but softer and another room no hum. Washer cycle pattern can be heard through hum when running.

@@STROA13 you have real dirty house wiring. You need a hum eliminator product

What exactly about the video doesn’t apply to your situation?

Hope your tremolo is working great! Thanks for your honest feedback

You can’t bypass the optocoupler. It needs to be adjusted to get the right amount of signal through and probably needs replacement

Glad you appreciate it!

I don’t know really. I tried one once, it’s a decent amplifier to get your feet wet with all the different amplifier models. But I like the S.S. Analog circuit that the pathfinder provides, and it’s the amplifier I want to hear.

I tapped capacitors as well. I actually found a couple polypropylene caps that were microphonic!!

​@@voxpathfinder15rSometimes a dry solder joint on a PCB tube socket will mess you up more than you'd think. After a couple decades its worth reflowing the socket joints. The substrate of the PCB breaking down too. All that tube heat cooks the fiberglass and the board itself can become conductive. You can find those spots pretty easy, ground your meter to chassis, set it for DC and probe the board itself. Like you would on a CBS waxed eyelet board in a Fender silverface. No real easy fixes for PCBs tho, often surgery to remove the conducting fiberglass. More times than should happen I'll hear a metered ticking or similar shortwavy sounds like yours and I realize I've set my cell phone on top of the cab, or my Bluetooth headphones. I get both or either 6-10 feet away from the amp and it's quiet. Also, if I've absent mindedly plugged into the same outlet circuit as Bluetooth lights of the Google Nest/Internet router or anything powered by a wallwart switching PSU it's Halloween again. I've got pedals and cables that are more susceptible to RFI than others.

You need to be more detailed what kind of hum. Channels with lots more gain will have more thermionic noise which is just physics and only noise suppression pedals in the effects loop can aid in limiting it. But again you could have a different noise. If you have single coil pickups, you will pick up 60 Hz hum in channel 2, but might not notice it’s effects in the clean channel. Humbuckers are your only real solution there.

What do you mean?

It was a joke that didn’t land. You’re THE source on these Vox amps and your videos led me to getting one! Thank you!

@@aperezdeal very cool! Great to hear that I helped. What model did you get?

A 15R that I found for $80. I am very pleased with it.

@@aperezdeal I am glad you got the amplifier!!! Report back how it goes

The simplest thing you can do and check for is bad tubes. If channel 1 works great, then you can kind of assume that v1 and v3 are working appropriately. Perhaps one half of v1 isn’t, but for now assume it is. In which case you will want to purchase a brand new 12ax7 preamp tube and swap it into the v2 position. V2 is wholly contained within channel 2. If that went bad - you would would have low output and anemic distortion without affecting channel 1 at all. If that still didn’t fix it. Then put back the original tube into v2. And try substituting the new tube into v1. This would be to try and diagnose that one half of the dual triode was bad - the one feeding channel 2, but the other half was still good, feeding channel 1. While possible 1/2 of v1 is bad - it’s much less probable. Now it’s possible both v2 and 1/2 of v1 is bad. But that would be ultra rare, and at that point you would want to send it to. Tech that would run your tubes on a tube tester to remove all doubt. But I would stop after testing both v1 and v2 with a single new 12ax7, then send to a technician. Preferably starting with v2. This would eliminate 99% doubt that bad tube is causing your issue, so then you would need to test the circuit board itself. Which you would want a technician to do.

Nope, that’s not what it turned out to be. Watch video #2!

I understand your concern, but it’s a feel thing. I didn’t put any undue stress on the board. It was very mild. There will be no issues with this board for another 20 years at which point this amplifier will probably be converted to ptp.

I mothballed until I have time to mess around with it.

I am with you. I think the combo is excellent as is. And it performs beautifully as a head. I think everyone is extreme- they either want to shove in a bigger speaker or cut it up into a smaller head box. I say leave it alone, it’s a head with a built in perfect 8” practice speaker.

@@voxpathfinder15rWhen I bought mine, the salesman demoed it using a Tele. He said something I've never heard anyone else mention, including Vox. He said the Boost is "optimally for use with larger speakers" and it could run a 4×12 with it activated. "Don't expect a Marshall, but you'll get by!" But that was around 2004, and few were doing it that way, using practice amps.

@@DerpRulesAll any and all complaints of the booster circuit and it’s associated diodes totally evaporate once you plug into a larger speaker cabinet

@@voxpathfinder15r Yep, exactly; for the cost of that needless mod, you could get Vox's 2×10 cab. Too bad most salesman weren't like mine. 🤷

Depends, do you have the skills and tools to fix things? What is the source of the buzzing? Is it cabinet related? Is it 60Hz hum from bad input Jack, 120 hz from bad filter capacitors? Or maybe it’s just you have noise in your electricity? I can’t diagnose things online. You could rule out the cabinet by holding it tight in certain areas to make sure that is not the source of rattling. You could make sure screws are nice and tight and there is adhesive foam left intact between back panel and chassis. But apart from that I can only recommend you bring to a amplifier technician

That right there is powerful combination!! Is it open or closed back?

@@voxpathfinder15rClosed. It's a Blackheart cab, which was originally factory fitted with an Eminence speaker. I also have two open backed Vox 2x12''' cabs. One with Wharfedale speakers, the other with G12H Anniversaries. But these are much too loud for home use. I actually own several Rangemaster clones from different artisan pedal makers. with a variety of different transistors. So it's been fun trying them all with the 15R. I own a few affordable Vox valve amps. But none of them have the trem and spring reverb of the 15R. Which is what I most like about it. Ideally, the 15R might work well as a preamp FX in front of, or in the FX loop of a good vintage style valve amp. I tried it a few times, but lacked the best adapters for matching levels and minimising noise. Same with that White tolex Vox Brian May combo from about 15 years ago. It was supposed to work as a preamp, but was far too noisy when connected to other amps.

You’re welcome

Well if the sound goes away with a humbucker style guitar plugged in. Then it’s a good bet your input Jack is suspect.

Right, …. If the volume is turned up and down and the hum goes up and down, then you are modifying the signal with the knob and the problem is in the signal path.

You’re welcome

Doesn’t every amplifier sound good with that combination?

Sorry

This was a while ago, it turned out the protection diode was toast, as well as the opamp chip. It seemed to work for a while, but then it sounded really bad. I sent it out and it got the clipping diodes replaced and it worked great!

I think it’s the easiest repair to make, and probably should be done before doing anything more invasive

You will have to research that for yourself

The optocoupler needs to be replaced

@@voxpathfinder15r What’s does a optocoupler do?

@@guga040 it’s the main part of your tremolo circuit. Without it, the tremolo won’t work and your amplifier could be stuck at a lower volume and sound distorted but in a nasty way

@@voxpathfinder15rcan you send me your discord? or any contact form?

⁠@@voxpathfinder15rHi, i already replaced the optocoupler for the Vtl5c3 and the tremolo still doesn’t work, the amp works but the effect doesn’t work

I am not familiar with exactly how a helix works, so I can’t offer any advice

This particular guy is a clone of the Laney Cub 8, the big brother of this amplifier is a clone of the Laney Cub 12R. No I haven’t modded these amplifiers, they are great as is. If something makes me determined to get a particular tone, I will consider modding. But honestly - I can’t find anything wrong with them