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@@whoismario I'm not sure I'd do it without the Venturi (and even then 15-18 valves already pull on the cam cover, would only potentially make things worse). Knowing what we know now, 19+ are ideal candidates for the MK8 PCV since the stock operation is most similar to the MK8 flow path. 17-18 are somewhat successful, but seems the limits are lower. They're more of a mixed bag. It just depends on so many factors it's hard to say.

@ thank you for the feedback. I’ll plan to do the full swap in the future. I just joined the platform and my 2017 Alltrack came to me with what I’m diagnosing as a bad pcv from the codes and oil leaks from the upper and oil pan. Just going with a stock replacement for now since I’m bleeding fixing other issues and maintenance as well.

@@whoismario truth be told the biggest piece of advise people seem to ignore is "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it." If your new PCV has no issues I'd just leave it be. Keep the stock TIP and it'll function well enough in 99% of cases.

@ I just got my 17 alltrack recently. Had leaks in the oil pan and a bad turbo. I’m wrapping up an is38 swap into it. I put a fresh stock pcv on it due to age. I’m wondering if the performance of the stock TIP comes from the diameter reduction speeding up the air velocity and that helps the vacuum while the larger diameter pipes don’t have that same effect.

@ that's definitely a factor. Jeff of MyGolfMK7 has been working on 3D printing his own TIP to increase engine airflow and maintain PCV vacuum and it seems like it's been a tough task to accomplish.

@@whoismario thanks! Not yet. Might be in the future.

I just ordered everything to update my 2020 Vw Gli DKFA at 90,000miles, I wanted to replace the Pcv BK Part # anyway to prevent issues. I may also need to utilize the boost venturi as I have a 034 TIP. I was thinking about ordering the apr boost tap kit for that use. Rather than purchasing another Turbo Muffler delete with the Hose barb. Thoughts?

@@jaball77 that's my XA class autocross nemesis 😂 He's got an IS20 and managed a 13.005 at 104.85. He'll be kicking my ass once his IS38 goes on 😅

@@bmw_for_life8902 it's just IC/DP/IS38 on 93. Stock airbox etc. BMS TIP and MK8 retrofit as well.

@@dexterracingful manual mode had quicker gear changes than sport mode. Ideally both would be fast and I program sport mode to shift at a consistent/optimal point.

@datadrivenmqb gonna have to try that!

@@dexterracingful for what it's worth it might be specific to my box code. I haven't found anyone else who's identified this issue yet. I have a DQ381 on 020G_2403 software for reference. Either way it's definitely worth logging to check and make sure.

@@abdul_fakkadi thanks!

@@karstgeo7290 yes, hopefully Rick has his IS38 by then and I can get my ass handed to me by two AWD wagons 😂

Honestly I can't say with absolute certainty - there are just way too many factors and the earlier cars tend to be less tolerant. I'd probably go straight for a plate system in your particular case. th-cam.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/w-d-xo.html

@datadrivenmqb you prefer the APR catch can or the Racing line?

I've only directly checked out the APR and saw no reason to not use it over anything else. It has a check valve to prevent damage to the N80 valve plus the catch can isn't stupid to empty and doesn't require removal of a TTY engine mount bolt like the VWR. IMO the VWR is poorly thought out and with both being basically the same price the choice is easy. Though those 2 are the most popular options (anecdotally).

@@miamirice6840 with bone stock suspension I'd just run zero toe front and rear, as much camber up front as you can get (via loosening everything and pushing/pulling within factory tolerances), and set rear camber around -1.7 to -2.0. Should be a decent starting point. Adjust balance via tire pressure. There's really only so much you can do. Toe out in the rear will definitely help but I'd probably not resort to that first time out.

@@datadrivenmqb i put a large bar in the back and the car is neutral at best when you really carry 4 wheel lose type speed , but it doesn’t rotate well under trail breaking that is so important in FWD ( the R really drives like FWD)

@@miamirice6840 these cars are too front heavy to not do a bigger front bar* *If on softer suspension, or have inadequate camber. The front bar on my car was easily one of the best changes I made. www.datadrivenmqb.com/suspension/swaybartheory www.datadrivenmqb.com/suspension/fsbdata

@@miamirice6840 a friend's 95 Civic hatch was easily the best FWD car I've ever driven on track. It's just a shame the parts are getting scarce and K swap stuff isn't exactly cheap.

@@datadrivenmqb agree. i had a 2300 lbs 95 Hatch with K20a2, bolt ons and coilovers. incredibly fast car.

@@dexterracingful you'll be just fine. I am less sure about the early Rs, but the 2015-16 GTIs absolutely are far more likely to have problems without a plate system especially with track use and or increased power. The APR plate is definitely the right choice in your case.

@@datadrivenmqb appreciate it man, we shall see how it does. Only real concern at this point is how quickly the can will fill up.

@@xAntisanta it's hard to say for sure, but this might help you to weigh your options: th-cam.com/video/gx8o4Sh5B6Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jIcOm2q2bZ9wtvGP

@@datadrivenmqb thank you mate I’ll take a look. Keep doing what you’re doing mate ✌️

@@dexterracingful video is an ancient Gopro Hero3, data is from Simos Tools with the .csv overlaid manually using RaceRender. For on-track video I use the Garmin Catalyst instead of the Gopro but it's the same process.

@@dscpat honestly I think most problems are installer related. I'm approaching 30k since install with no problems or noises now.

@@datadrivenmqb I appreciate it. I bought them and will use RTV as you suggest. Car is new so bearing are OE and new. Should be fine. Thanks again for sharing your experience.

@@dscpat no problem! As long as they're paired with OEM or 034 springs I wouldn't expect issues. Anything else needs to be looked at very closely as outlined in the video. Anecdotally everyone who's had problems has been on some other type of spring. I suspect the level of interference may vary car to car and spring mfr to spring mfr.

@@afifhasbullah7135 depends on model year and parts your car was built with which will affect likelihood of success. You'll want to watch this and make the choice for yourself. www.datadrivenmqb.com/drivetrain/partscatalog8883

@@molsen1029 😂

@@BittaThisBittaThat www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv

Very "Don't threaten me with a good time"

@@Denydee-uw8ki diesels function very differently - there is no vacuum in the intake manifold available to potentially act like the EA888.3 at idle. Would need to find someone more knowledgeable on VW TDI stuff specifically.

@@debaasdebaas9868 no idea, but sounds like an easy way to use the MK8 Venturi hose instead of the Tiguan version.

@@datadrivenmqbturbo outlet and inlet connects with pcv. I buy original pcv hose from mk8 chop together with mk7 hose and dv delete it’s making 500 hp

*Maybe*. Honestly for anything on the stock turbo there's really no major need to change from the stock TIP. The power gain is pretty negligible in the grand scheme of things. The APR seemed to be just marginally worse than stock, but it also doesn't have really notable gains in airflow if you check the data at mygolfmk7.com.

Yes - TunerPro for actually editing the calibration, and Simos Tools for flashing and logging.

@@datadrivenmqb that is awesome

Also, is this ihi turbo or an oem+

@@TheShadowang1s OEM off a 2017(?) Golf R. Got it used for $250... and wanted to test the MK8 PCV a bit harder so it was too good to pass up. If you're on Facebook, check out the Simos Tools User Group. Lots of info on how to get started DIY tuning there.

Will have a massive vacuum leak at idle due to the blue passage vacuum to the crankcase not being regulated by the diaphragm.

IMO for autocross only (and don't care about being competitive) the 034 ball joints are great because they add a ton of camber and the bump steer they introduce really won't be noticeable. The Whitelines I'm running now along with some bump steer correction which helps in that regard, and they get a bit of camber... but you lose caster in the process. I'm compensating (somewhat) for the caster loss by having JXB caster sphericals in the rear of the front LCAs.

@@victordelgado4657 I’m working on standardizing a test procedure to discern the difference between crankcase leakage vs blow-by. The 15 GTI in the video which we put my sensors on has since had his RMS replaced, I have a handful of tools and stuff on the way to be able to bench test my car vs his and evaluate leaking seals more accurately. Then once he autocrosses it again I’ll be following up with the results of that. Just hang tight. Still searching for answers. Biggest question is the amount of blow-by that early vs later engines produce. Harder to quantify as a leak down test does not factor in dynamic sealing problems such as ring flutter. My thought is that if this local problem car tests out with a similar crankcase vacuum holding ability vs mine while not running, but still shows drastically lower vacuum levels with the sensors fitted, it is a blow-by issue. If readings are similar but it still smokes, probably an engine block passage type issue. If it has no more problems, then there might be a lot more MQB cars out there with small crankcase sealing issues that go misdiagnosed and are the root cause of PCV problems.

it's in the works for the future

No idea, haven't tested it. But based on my findings now it appears 19+ are more likely to be successful w/ a MK8 retrofit.

@@datadrivenmqb if i use mk8 pcv retrofit kit can i change oem turbo inlet？

@@scottli2436 the Venturi makes up for the lack of vacuum non-oe inlets cause. Yes.

06H906052B If you have factory SAI, you can use a harness from SC Skunkwerks to steal the SAI pressure sensor wiring for logging purposes.

@datadrivenmqb Rockstar thank you, I don't have SAI since I have an R, but I'm gonna try to wire it into the ecu. Just need to find an open pin accepting 5v.

@@blahbergerpoke someone with an R has wired it to the same pin that is normally used for SAI for what it’s worth. The 5v signal still works as an input to the ECU. I’m not sure where he pulled the 5v reference and ground from though. At some point I’ll write up all the info on how to get it wired up and start logging.

​@datadrivenmqb So did some digging and looks like the sai is on pin 9 or 21 but the diagrams i got seem to be missing data. Gonna get an erwin sub and see if I can use the interactive diagram to pin it out. Should be a straight forward task to wire into the ecu.

​@datadrivenmqb Do you use Mode 22 or 3E and do you by chance have the address and formula you use to log the pcv sensor? I'm gonna try to build a harness for this sometime next week wanted to get Simos tools setup.

plz keep us updated on this :)

@@ronniemattsson will do. I should add that it looked like the oil residue was right by the breather that comes off the pcv and connects to the turbo inlet.

Yeah man, genuine parts from an actual dealership or nothing when it comes to these valves. Hope it continues to work just fine!

@@datadrivenmqb Thank you. Lesson learned.

@@ronniemattsson doesn’t sound like PCV related to be honest. If the dealer cross references your valve to BL, the MK8 retrofit will likely work just fine (without cutting the hole in the valve). Not sure I’d expect it to fix that issue but who knows?