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Yes the ESC and Receiver are an all in one unit. I would look into buying a super cheap esc motor combo and receiver from Temu. I bought one for like $25 that worked really well and actually felt well built. But I never used it because I found it was too small for the Monster Truck Im building so I gave it to my buddy who has it in one of his small cars for his kids and it seems to work great.

I found that the steering ability is directly related to how many wheels are powered. So when I got it back in the shop and found that one of the drive lines to the wheels was broken and thats why the car was pulling so hard to the one side. After I replaced it, it handled pretty well again. This is not a problem I have seen in much higher end cars.

I used the same pla for support and it was a massive pain in the ass removing it all. Especially from the little holes inside where the printed gasket is supposed to go.

Thank you I will definitely try that.

You are absolutely correct. Not sure why when I was filming I had it in my head that it was petg but I was wrong. It absolutely is PET-CF. My bad.

So I just went back and watched it right now and I have to say you’re not wrong! Lol. Thanks I will try to watch that for the next one.

I've heard varying things about using alcohols to clean the plates, so I stick to using dish detergent to be less abrasive. You mention alcohol and "cleaner," but would you specify what you meant by cleaner?

So im like you, i normally only clean my plate with dish soap and warm water. But when doing that plus glue and whatnot didnt make anything stick I resorted to cleaning the plates with 90% alcohol, windex, 409, oven degreaser, and some target brand multipurpose surface cleaner. Non of which made anything stick any better. The only thing I haven’t tried yet is using a torch to heat the plates up really hot to get the pours in the metal molecules to open up and let it cool down naturally to see of that helps. Problem is I thing the torch would burn the surface in such a way that the plate would be useless anyway. I would do it in an oven but dont have an over that would get hot enough. Plus that could be a lot of work for nothing since there is no guarantee it would help.

And why is that exactly? This is the only video with that credit screen and it was just something I was trying out at the time. Im all for criticism and critique because thats a good learning tool but your comment expects me to read your mind and unless Elon has built a new device I’m not aware of, thats just not possible.

Ok that’s one of the best comments Ive read on this video! Lol

Glad you liked it. I have not had that problem myself but i have never printed pictures of actual people normally just cartoons and things people ask for. Let me know if you figure it out

@@gingergeekstudios Ok, thanks for the reply.

Thank you, happy I could help.

Probably.

You're welcome

Very true but with this hobby to each his own, but not sure why some people feel like they need to rain on someone else's parade. I love constructive criticism because that is how I have learned some things but sometimes people just say things to get a reaction, which I am guilty of too but I am trying to be better because what's great for me might not be for someone else and vice versa.

Very true and mine is now sagging in the middle so I have a bad feeling eventually Im gonna have to ditch it. Which sucks casue I really like it. But we will cross that bridge when we get to it.

​@@gingergeekstudiosI may have missed it, but did you use PLA or PETG?

I used PLA and 15% infill in hind sight i believe one of those to be a mistake. Pretty sure its the infill but may have been better with petg or something. Who knows, I learn new stuff everyday.

@gingergeekstudios ah, I was wondering if PLA+ would work? Supposedly, it's "tougher than regular PLA" which may just be a marketing thing. I'm about to build my AMS riser soon.

I have personally never used PLA+ yet but I know Filativity has and he really liked it from what I remember. As far as the strength of it compared to normal PLA im not sure but it would probably be worth a try. Cant wait to see how yours comes out.

Interesting I will have to go check that out

If you’re serious that may be able to be arranged.

I find that petg in particular prints much better with the door open and lid off. I've heard tpu is similar but I haven't tried it.

There are many occasions in which it could be necessary to remove the top glass, leave the door open or both. For example, if your printer resides in your garage and it is the middle of summer and you are printing with PLA the ambient temperature in the printer during printing with everything closed can get so high that it clogs the extruder. In this case removing the top glass and leaving the door open will allow for all that heat to escape and hopefully prevent that. There are lots of other reasons as well but most of them relate to this example. Hope this helps

I actually can and I used an extra connector from my honeycomb wall as a toggle that can be turned to hold the lid of the AMS open. There will be an update video on this coming soon.

You are absolutely correct. I forgot to print it for the video and printed it later when I realized I forgot about it. However I personally like the brightness of it without the diffuser.

Thank you I didn't know this. Now I know what the other slot is for.

No its just those two screws. You may have a bit of filament stuck inside that is making it difficult to remove. I could also just be stuck I remember the first time I removed mine that it was a little harder to take out. Just be careful because those wires are very small and easy to break.

Im glad this helped you. If you are really wanting to repair the thermistor wire just know that any amount of solder you add to the wire can change the resistance and that will mess with the read out of what temp the printer thinks it is.

@@gingergeekstudios I ended up swapping the thermistor from my 0.6 I never use and it worked like a charm! Thanks again!

You're welcome! I am very glad it helped.

In this video I was using starbond CA glue but when that ran out I found this at my local home depot and I dont have to order it so I have just been getting this instead “Ca Glue 1.7 oz. Super Glue Wood Working DIY Craft, Multi-Purpose Clear Adhesive (4-Pack)” and I also get the accelerator to go with it “CA Glue Activator Spray 6.75 fl. oz. Clear Multi-purpose Adhesive Accelerator Spray for Super Glues (2-Pack)”

I’m Im Just glad you did find it helpful.

@@gingergeekstudios saved my night mate, thanks

You’re welcome

The main way you will know is that the AMS will be making a grinding noise because its trying to feed filament but its not moving so the feeding gears are just scraping against the filament. If you’re not using an AMS then you will see the print head moving like it’s printing but nothing will be coming out of the nozzle.

@@gingergeekstudios thank you so the clicking sound or air printing . I look at these multiple color filaments and most have clogging issues so I don’t buy can you recommend a maker with no issues ? Ps : glow in the dark filament is notorious on breaking and clogging

There are no FDM printers that will not have this issue. There are some that will do it far less than other but all are capable of clogging. The best way to prevent this from happening with a bambu is to leave the door open when you are printing with PLA and especially when the room your printer is in is not climate controlled.

@@gingergeekstudios i try that open door method with the multi color pla thanks

You’re welcome. Happy to help. Let me know how it goes for you

Then you could just leave it out or get some thin weather stripping with the adhesive on one side, cut it down to the right size and stick it on in place of the TPU.

Cool I will have to go check out the V2

We are really looking forward to it as well. Thank you for watching, there will be lots more updates coming this month.

If the ambient temperature in the room that your printer is gets too high, and you do not have the door or the lid of the printer open and your printing with PLA, it can lead to clogged printheads and extruders on this because the PLA will start melting and getting soft before making it through the print nozzle. It’s happened to me a bunch

Thanks

Im not sure.

This was all Overture PLA. I do not remember the exact color because my receipt doesn’t have the color listed on it.

Thanks this is very helpful info.

Thanks 👍

Glad I could help!

Check out Bambu X1 Series Lighting Upgrade Kit - V2 from TH3D, I think the X1 and the P1 kit is identical or close, check before purchasing tho.

Big tree tech LED strip, it's magnetic and fits right inside, also I would suggest getting the panda touch screen

All total was about two rolls.

I can say that I have tried almost all of those and I personally prefer just swapping the spools. For me its by far the fastest option and the most worry free. But it truly is just a personal preference I know a couple other people that swear by the printed clip-on spool rings.

Standard because I was not in a hurry and I wanted to use as little filament as possible.

@@gingergeekstudios It's probably a lot less wear & tear on your printer as well.

Glad it was helpful!

Yes, it works very well with the AMS and color changes. However, there is a possibility you might need a longer Bowden tube from the AMS to the back of the printer. I didn’t need one, but I know other people that have made this and have absolutely needed one cause their tube was just too short as far as the P1 S. I believe it will work with it, but I do not know for sure.