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I'll check that. Thank you so much!

@ When the engine is running, with a finger over that hole at the bottom, you will feel the crank case venting there.. With the left side cover off you’ll also be able to trace where the crankcase vent starts at the top, then follow the passages down to the bottom. You’ll also see where there is a passage that exits into the counter sprocket cavity.

@@donsoule6411 I never even got to start it. It started leaking just sitting there. I took the cover off and put some bond on the gasket. It's been cold here so I'm giving it plenty of time to cure. Should have a follow up soon. Thanks again for all the info.

I bought one of those, sitting right here. But to me it's like putting a Chevy engine in a Model A. Runs great and everything, but I though Honda vs Honda would be more interesting. If it all fails, the Chonda goes in! LOL

@ I’m not much of a “purist”. I’ve actually owned a Model A with SBC. Haha. For me, its about the fun of riding, not value or correct parts. Like I said, I applaud you for sticking with it. 👍🏻

If I remember correctly, the the edge of the clutch basket was peened or distorted either by use or me trying to remove it. I took a dremel and smoothed out all the rough edges. The other issue may be: The lever on the handlebars is to PUSH START the bike. Weird I know. Took me a while to figure that out. If that cable is frozen or out of adjustment, the clutch will always be engaged. Check that too. I don't think you even have to take the cover off to check that. If the bike WAS working fine before, check that first. Let me know how it turns out - Jimbo

Sold the bike but here's what I remember. The one on the very bottom, usually pink or clear in color, is the carb drain hose. It's next to a screw, on the bottom of the float bowl. This can tuck in the frame of the bike, facing downward. The screw is to drain the carb when storing or servicing the bike. Then you have the little elbow hose. That's a vent. leave it alone. Then you need vacuum to the petcock, and the fuel line from the petcock to the carb. The vacuum should be at the barb between the carb and engine. This may have a tee in the hose going to the emissions control. Then you should have one left which is the fuel from the petcock to the carb. As the video states, the petcock must be correct. Hope this helps.

I'm not sure, but I think there's a washer/spacer inside that slipped down and is now blocking the shaft. If so, I would smear a small SMALL amount of grease in there so it will "glue" the spacer in position so you can slide it all the way on the shaft. Grease, align, install. Of course wipe any excess grease away. You don't want that on the belt.

This one is a 2003

I googled a 2500 and came up with: OEM 59011-1057 and Gates: 27G4313. NAPA can get it. Hope this helps!

@@Jimbotime60 I bought the 1057 way too big.

The only thing I can think of: The driven pulley on the trans is stuck "open". In other words, the sheaves are spread apart as if the engine was at speed. The belt should be on the outside edge of the pulley. If it drops in like the engine side, there's your problem.

@@Jimbotime60Bought it too long...is there a way to measure between the pulleys for correct size?

@@Jimbotime60 You are the man...that was it.

Try putting some new clean gas as well

At an idle the belt should not move. If it does, you either have the idle too high. The belt itself is worn. [Got mine through a local NAPA dealer btw] Or the clutch has worn out parts. AND you need a special puller to remove the clutch. Just saying. If you have a cracked or broken clutch cover, I would replace that at this time.

@@Jimbotime60 I push on the primary clush n move really easy like I can push all do way in the second one this n the back that one not move at all but whit engine running n put gear open n close I guess is what supposed to do I take caple videos but not no how send here so can see

Sounds like the spring is broken. It should take two hands and some effort to push the sheaves together. Then it should spring back on its own. I would also replace the large bushing in there. The rear one has to twist to release. It rarely has problems.@@filivallenajar6889

@@Jimbotime60 did it whit one hand really easy wil try get new full clutch or just spring But tank u so much when do it may be this weekend will let u no how end up

Cool. And don't forget. You need a puller to get the clutch off.@@filivallenajar6889

Thanks for taking a look. I have the bike up for sale if interested.

Ebay

Since there are no turn signals on the Mule from the factory, you are free to do it however you want. I followed the wiring diagram that came with the switch. Under the dash, there are plenty of taps for accessories and you can find one that is hot with the key on, or hot all the time. From there I would add a fuse for protection. At your local home improvement store you can find some 4 conductor "in wall speaker" wire that makes it a little neater. Hope this helps. Thanks for taking a look!

Yes i have a mule 2007.

The only issue I had was the OEM brake lights. You would probably have to figure out a diode or something to split them. That's why I added the LED lights instead.

Soon. Watch the running video and at the 1 minute mark see the cool sparks coming out of the carb! Thought I was seeing things!

That's really cool! I'll be watching.

What is OP? Give me some words on what you got. You have some repair skill? Was this sitting out in the rain? You have keys and a charged battery? Did you check the engine oil? I would change the oil first thing, before I even try to start it. It's cheap protection. If there's water or fuel in the oil, there goes your engine. Fresh gas, new oil, charged battery, now does it crank the starter with the key? No? Do you know you have to hold the brake lever to crank it? I didn't know that on my first. Let me know what else.

@@Jimbotime60 Hey man thanks for getting back to me. OP means original poster. I do have some skills, I have the keys the bike is not stolen or anything. I thought the battery was bad so I hooked a jump pack directly up to the battery leads which was confusing cuz there is four of them, and I finally got it to turn over by holding the brake. Now it will not fire I think there's old gas in it I think it's been sitting for 5 or 6 years. I know when I turn the key on the hazard lights come on and I can't seem to turn them off. It's just a very confusing scooter and I can't find a owner's manual anywhere. Trying to get access to the engine so I can check for spark I couldn't get the seat to unlatch it's electronically controlled I think. There seems to be a few safety switches on the seat and on the kickstand. Just looking for some guidance I guess I've worked on dirt bikes and quads but this scooter seems very perplexing

@@davidlawless1003 OK, on mine, the seat opens from the ignition switch. There's a cable from the seat to the keyswitch. The side stand may have a kill switch. Fold it up and put the bike on the center stand. Make sure the kill on the handlebars is on. The hazard lights: I would work the switch on and off a few times. Maybe it will cure its self with use. I don't know about a seat switch. There's wires under the seat that go to the fuel tank. Maybe that's what you see? 5 or 6 years? You MUST flush the fuel tank out. You have rust and funky fuel in there. But first? You need to get the seat open to do anything really.

@@Jimbotime60 ok thank you very helpful. I'll let you know if I get it going

First, thanks for watching! No, no kit. I searched ebay for some cool lights. Then I searched an old school Jeep style turn signal switch. That clamps right on to the steering column. For the flasher, use an electronic one. The old type of bi-metal won't work with LED's. Behind the dash, Kawasaki left a few pigtails for powering accessories. I picked one that was hot all the time in case you want to leave the 4 ways on with the engine off. For wire, check your harness. It may already be there. Look by the tail lights. I did run my own. 4 conductor 18ga in wall speaker wire from Home Depot worked for me. Good luck! Oh, BTW, you may consider adding a fuse in there somewhere. Maybe a 5-10 amp, as this circuit should draw minimal current with the LED's.

Oh, the kit I referred to was the turn signal switch. It came with a flasher and some schematics.

So sorry for the delay. Under the floor panel, one of the lines had rusted through. You couldn't even see it until you moved things around.

Thanks! Ended up selling it. I'm on to my next project, a Suzuki FA50. BTW, if you need parts, try Treatland.

@@Jimbotime60 oh I love those Suzuki's! Thanks for the tip!

OK, this may sound simplistic and I don't want to insult you. You have the key to turn it on? Good. It has a gas & oil mix of fuel in the fuel tank? I assume it has oil in the transmission. Did you check? Good. Turn the fuel petcock to the on position. Wait a minute or two and check if there any gas leaking anywhere. No leaks? Good. If it's leaking, STOP AND FIX THAT. Is there a kill switch on the handlebars? Make sure it's in the run position. On the left handlebar there are two levers. One is the brake. The other is the start lever. you squeeze this to engage the engine while you pedal it. You may need the choke to start it. There's a lever on the carb, right side of bike. Gas on, key on, choke on, lever pulled, pedal and...................

@@Jimbotime60 wowww, I thought that 2nd lever was a clutch this whole time. Thought my clutch was bad!

It's not completed yet. It will be a while yet. I will have this one and an Avanti Super Sport at the Spring swap meet at Raceway Park in April. Also a 1971 Honda C70 all restored. If you were at the last Meet this past Fall, it's that gold one you looked at.