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Yes, you may have to remove/replace the socket depending on what type you have installed for the chip.

Yes

Yes

Lots of knock off HKS out there, not sure if thats something to do with it or not. This was only on about 8psi at this time, this cars turned up more now ill have to see if it does the same thing

@@BoostedNW appreciate the reply. I've looked Into the different sounds from real vs fake, but I've only seen maybe 3 videos where the HKS makes the flutter whistle I'm taking about. One is yours, one is a Turbo EM2 at 20psi and I can't remember the other one. But I hate the basic "psh" sound most BOVs make. I opted for a knock off type S but the sounds yours made in this video is the sounds I've always wanted to achieve.

​@@BoostedNW did you ever see if the bov made the same sound?

Ssqv can have the insert removed or changed which alters the sound I ran 2 on my Q50 and removed the insert because I rather the "woosh" sound instead of the whistle

@@dariuskirnon1979 yes I know I have an HKS. That doesn't answer my question. 99% of the HKSs I hear with the standard insert have a single squeek when they go off. This one flutters like a bird. I've only heard 5 HKS make this sound. No one seems to know why

Then ignore it, some ecu boards are different, what matters is what is inside the dotted/dashed outline in that area.. That is the "Chipping/Socketing area" anything within that box needs to be in place

Check our instagram, there are several reels using the software, driving and tuning, etc. instagram.com/boostednw

Did you pay attention to the correct way the 4 pin needs to be installed? Hooking it up when its BACKWARDS will result in NO DATA and possibly FRYING something. There should have been a QR CODE and instructions SPECIFICALLY with the cn2 4 pin connector exactly for these reasons

You can't just use something that is ALREADY installed and just IGNORE THE DIRECTION that it is facing, Essentially plugging something in BACKWARDS

Send us a message on facebook/Insta, or email with a picture of the direction that your cn2 4 pin header that was ALREADY installed and I guarantee you its backwards. Anyone else reading this in the future, Please follow directions before just plugging things in and hoping they work. 💯

So i figured that out sorry i dont the notifications from youtube... still will not record data i will try and find u on fb

the standalone is not a piggyback its a whole ecu replacement. The s300 could be considered the "piggyback" as it relies on the ecu's functions and just works in combination with the stock ecu components. The product page for the standalone has all the details and comparisons, the list is too long to put in a reply/message. boostednw.com/boostednw-honda-obd1-pnp-ecu

Plug and play doesn't mean it doesn't need to be tuned. Every ecu needs to be tuned. Plug and play means there is no wiring changes needed....AKA PLUGS RIGHT IN, Works out of the box, Full USB programmability(which Honda ecus don't have)

1234

@@BoostedNW so I have the same set up in my P28 ecu and I’m trynna connect to the app and my Bluetooth is on and it doesn’t connect, but both of the lights are on steady

@@TNSBUILT What app? Tunerview? Likely you have the wrong protocol selected or you haven't removed J12 in your ECU.

@@BoostedNW I sent pictures and info to your Instagram

Are you trying to just go back to a stock ecu?

@@BoostedNW hey, i figured out how to remove ostrich, i mean i just lifted this thing with a lot of pins, used some electrical cleaner and it works again. so no, i did not try to going back to stock ecu cuz i already "repaired" it. and also i wasnt sure what to do to go back. just removing piece of wire thats above memory all i need to do?

@@miziaa yes just removing the J1 (jumper) buy cutting it will revert the ECU back to stock form (whatever type of ecu it is, will revert back to that stock map)

thank you so much

Was our full refurbish price + $25 for other parts/extra time

Does not work on iphone, on android its the "TunerView" App

Needs to have a cut out in the case, same spot a demon2 would for the USB cable, there is no internal facing USB port on Snake V2 like the Demon V2 had. Other than that yes it should fit

@@BoostedNW thank you guys

🔥In Stock ready to go!

@BoostedNW Ill call in this afternoon. I may need to have you all install it, too. I picked up a prechipped p28 with an original ha p28 sst chip still in it.🤦‍♂️ The board continuity tests are fine and the caps all look good- no leaks or swelling yet, but... this is old. Lol. Only going to swap a jdm p8r-nonvtec-headed b20. No plans for boost yet. Just, TB/I//H/E, portmatched in/ex, valvetrain, headgasket, block girdle. Just the basics to spin it real good. Maybe to the track someday?

Wahhhhhh

Same things need to be soldered for it to plug in, but the external install it is not for that, its the case, internal adapter, and cables that makeup the external install kit. Makes it more like the old moates ostrich/ostrich2... external install for like use in multiple vehicles, more non permanent install

Cause we don't live in Europe

@@BoostedNW on the are you 😝

Hi! Well the main advantage is you can actually get them. Moates demon2 is long discontinued and moates is out of business. Other unique features include using in "demon" mode or also using in "ostrich" mode for programs that only support moates ostrich, built in bluetooth, DUAL Datalogging, CANBUS connections for digital dash displays, and the fact they have an existing company/developers behind to support and upgrade in the future.

@@BoostedNW Thanks!, maybe I would try one for my turbo civic. Also I've seen that there are 2 versions. The ones you sell on your page is de version 2?.

@MasterBonixD v1 is no longer currently and does not have the same features. V2 is the one current sold and in the video

There is no need to have j12 in any chipped/socketed/emulated obd1 honda ecu, so yes remove it

thanks. hows the boostednw emulator going? 😊

all boards except 1980 have r54, if its not there u just skip it. Also do nothing with r52 as that is unrelated. Also j1 should not be a resistor, it should be a jumper(either just a solid wire, or a resistor looking thing with one black stripe, that is a 0 ohm resistor) Only things that should be changed for chipping/socketing/prepping for emulators, are INSIDE the white dashed outline in the chipping area

Nice, just be careful don't heat it too much, if its not loose... don't pull it or it will lift the trace, remove the whole pad and through hole connection point and there will be no connection when trying to solder something to that pin again and will have to be replaced with a wire routed point to point.

You're welcome!

Yes

@@BoostedNW just ordered one

@@dezertdime1072 Awesome! We will get it out ASAP! :)

Thanks!

@@BoostedNW So if the jumper is completed left off then it selects Tune 1. And if the Center Pin is Grounded then it selects Tune 2?

@@hpjunkie69 yep

@@BoostedNW what is the status of the Emulator /seems you are close to release date

@@hpjunkie69 indeed, just waiting on newest revision of board and more parts. Had to revise again due to another part not having very good stock anywhere, which would just lead to problems down the road.

yeah pretty much anything android with bluetooth, the one we had there was a $40 amazon fire tab7

if the tunes not much different like just switching 2 step params, or higher boost levels, and not like live map data... then you can do while car is running. If its like actual completely different "maps" then shut off and back on

Yes it will work

also we recommend using HTS vs Crome

Yep even better when you wire it to a dash mounted switch!

Yes emulator is close to next on the list. Ostrich2.0 is kinda dated and you don't get dataogging so you have to buy extra devices.. The Moates Demon2 was the newer solution, obd1 emulation and datalogging in one unit.. although we might do both to give people options. We shall see!

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