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Russ, were there any issues with mounting the rear wheels with the hub size difference from the old unit (~3") to the new (3.96")? Have everything in place to start this swap myself and wanna make sure I don't need to have a new set of wheels on stand-by.....

How did this effect the starter on the floor?

Nice work, especially the drawing while filming!! You’ve inspired me to get off my butt and back to work on my 1950 3100, thank you!

good info- thx for posting. i have a 53 3100 chevy and was thinking about cutting off the bracket that is welded to the front of the old torque tube axle and using all the original leaf spring hardware and welding that on to the new axle (2004 colorado). think that would work? also are you going to do a dual master cylinder vid?

Note: The "old" battery in the truck is an 8 volt - 4 cells.

Can you share the link of the parts you ordered?

So , I have a question. Is it necessary to change out the wiring harness ? Or can you leave the original factory harness ? I'm new to old cars. Just got me a 1953 Bel Air. Thanks for the video

Thank you for this. Looking to do something like this to my 47, although it's a Stylemaster and not a truck but more or less the same lol.

Totally awesome advice

I happen to disagree in regard to .86 on OD. I have a different truck though. I have a '46 with a '54-'62 235 (lubricated lifters and higher compression). My T5 is a '95, and I had a guy in WA convert it to mechanical. I plan to use the OEM speedometer. With a Muncie 3 speed, at 3000 RPM it literally sounds like the engine is blowing up. I have a 1352-216. I believe it was rebuilt, but it has the older syncros. I'm replacing with the newer fiber style. However, I'm replacing the rear end with a '55, since my '46 has a torque tube and the '55 has an open driveshaft. I have done the math and .72 would tax my system too much. All of our mileage varies, and I don't have mine fully converted yet. EDIT: I used a Jeep input shaft with 10 spline so I could use the OEM clutch. I have an adapter plate to go from Ford bell housing mount to Chevy pattern which is in my 235. To make it even more complicated, I'm using the original 1953 flywheel and had the 6 volt starter rebuilt as a 12 volt. There a difference in flywheel teeth matching to starter pinion. My '95 T5 had a 26 spline input.

I see the link for the jeep input shaft which is a 10 spline but you used a 14 spline ?

What about a sticker that’s on the trans

looks sharp

Thank you thank you very helpful

Is this off a z71 Colorado or a zq8 or a z85 Colorado? Just trying to see which ones to buy

Only thing i would have done differently. Would have went to led headlights. They are a night and day difference and use less power than the old 6v ones did. And are 2-3x as bright as those new 12v ones you got and cheaper. Nice how to by the way..

Great video clear very easy to understand good job thank you

Beautiful and original One ❤....would like to have had that luck to find One in that condition. As I am located in Germany makes it even harder 😅🤷🏼‍♂️❤️

Hi, Nelius Thank you for sharing our booth and hope our booth can help you better finish your painting works. After seeing your video, we know that you meet some problems when using our booth, here are some solutions. 1. After installing the fan to the red tube, please move the fan slightly away from the booth, so that when the fan is running, the red tube can stay straight (like the white tube on your video) and then there is no tube flapping noise. 2. We also sell air draft device connection on our store, our booth can be installed air draft device( exhaust fan) on the door filters, which can help exhaust the overspray to the outside faster if needed, if you want to paint a full size car, it would be better to install these accessories. Hope these solution can help you better use our booth to finish the painting works. Please feel free to contact us if you meet any problems when using our booth. Regards😁😁

Damn that’s close

It isn't necessary to use a reducer on the fuel gauge. I've converted a number of 47-53 Chevy trucks to 12v, and never used a reducer for anything other than the heater fan motor. My 50 3100 fuel gauge has worked perfectly without the reducer for the 31 years I've owned it!

My rear rod bearing grease dried and caused resistance. Fix: Slightly open grease cover, Flush, repack, and cover cap. Other bearirg done, too. Now , both spin much better, less noise.

Beautiful Truck !

Seafoam green same as mine!

A tick in the lefter if thats all it is a simple adjustment would fix that the old 235 ,6 is bullet proof,

I still to this day have my Day of the Dumpster the Red Ranger box where he's fighting Goldar

Do you have any links to the blast pot or upgraded nozzle you can provide?

Thanks man. Did you put a T5 brace for the tail section? I read the same thing about it being 50/50. I’m on the fence but will likely fab something up.

ya its prity cool 🎉🎉🎉 😊😊

That is nice.

When’s the t5 video coming out?

The white on the grille is more than likely the original color of the grille, probably lacquer and it’s hard to remove when it’s been on for years n years n years.

What year s10 tranny is this from? thank you.

Rep that Teal!!!! 😎

Hey bud I'm watching this please don't run it to your coil your coil needs to be left alone so all of its power is just to run the engine if you rob power from it. Your timing will change so go to a keyed ignition something might think of they sell a head light wiring harness that will plug into your 6v head light harness but gots it's own relays that will hook up to the battery but uses your original harness to use your factory high low beams they are awesome takes all to load off your factory wires so you don't have a Pretty flame electrical fire just a few ideas good luck looks great

Oillyest for sure 🤣 domt replace the seal just reoil it

After finding the rod bearings were offset, I put both offsets to the inside (against each other) with the extra space towards the nut and motor and It cleard just fine. I would not put my face anywere near that fan if it were wobbling like yours is, it may be plastic but at speed it could be devastating.

The max psi on that tank is 125 that means the most you should run that is at 120 PSI, you need to adjust the cut off Psi at around or even a bit lower then 120 Psi, that is if you want to be safe. I bought one of those brand new and returned it the next day, too LOUD, recovery was way too long did NOT run my air tools worth a darn, In my opinion it was/is the biggest crap anyone can get, I suggest throwing away the pump/motor keeping the tank and get a real 5 or 6 Hp motor and pump because that is in no way a 6Hp motor, you're looking at maybe a 2Hp General use motor, I got a 3Hp farm use motor from Harbor Fright and I can tell a big difference a 5 Hp pump from a local air compressor company and my recovery time is at about less then 2 minutes...

Ha! I'm rebuilding a 6 HP 33-gal one right now. Bought the new gaskets and ring (mine is a single cylinder) from the same company. Somehow the ring and the cylinder were too tight a fit, plus I made one critical error ...... assembling the piston rod back on the motor, I neglected to tighten down the pinch bolt where the rod mounts on the crank/bearing. Upon powering up, it immediately self destructed, sending rod parts and an obliterated fan pieces all over the garage! So, back to Master Tool Repair for another NEW piston, cylinder, rod, ring, and gasket set. Thank God I caught it all on video. The new parts should be here this Saturday, where I'll try this again. My video on this whole adventure "should" be up early next week. BTW, how long did yours take to fully fill up after your repair ?? Mine takes 20 minutes for a 33 gal tank to get to 135 shutoff, but again, it's a single cylinder, so I'd guess yours being double the capacity, with double the cylinders, yours and mine should fill similarly. (new subscriber ).

It sucks you fried some new pistons but we can all learn from your mistakes thank you!

Excellent job, well and clear explained you make it look so easy and simple , I appreciate your hard work and effort for others to utilize.god bless you.

Very well done. Great education.

Great video man! I’m actually doing this same swap to my 47 3100 and this helps alot. You got yourself a New sub

Russell was the 12v conversation easy as you made it seem

I hope you clean up mother earths ground 😉.... Why haven't you put a blanket below your working scene? 🤔 By the way, great outcome of the wood 👍🏽... Nice 54.

What are you going to do for the e-brake? Using new axle cables or old cables?

Do you have a link to the perch kit you used?

Hey dude. I just found your video. I want to say thanks. I’m tackling this same job on my ‘53. Swapping to a T5. I appreciate all the insights you shared. It always seemed straight forward but seeing you do it helps a lot. Looking forward to seeing more videos.

Russell those mufflers were called Cherry Bombs. I have ‘46 Chevy that I would also like to swap out the rear end. I really enjoy your videos.

nice job