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You know the last guy that said this, I replied bellow that I would fix this after my face healed. Now I got A Brain tumor and on my way out. I'll put it on my bucket list to fix and re-upload the video. . 😁

You have to tear apart the sticker, and under that there are some screws if I remember.... It was not "easy" to figure out. Take a magnet around and see if you can find where it almost sticks, and that should tell you where to pay attention too is my best advice as I got rid of this YEARS ago. Still, it was one of the best chargers out there and lasted the longest. If you can replace the bad parts on the board, it will give you MANY years of service. Happy trials man!

Buenas tengo un cargador igual y se me quemó el componente R17 y no se cual es ni su valor o descripción podría decirme cuál es gracias

DAMN IT! There goes my Brain again. Yes you are correct, the RKE is the Black Box that is under the dash in the middle where the Window Vent is. where the VSS (The items that does the RFID ) is by the Key lock / TUmbler under the Multifunction Switch Assembly. (And yes it does have relays that click and is normal operation) Now for the Key Fobs themselves? Hardware wise, they are Perfectly Capable. (Assuming here) But the programing of them is the tinkle by the techs as the method to do so is only written for the OEM Fobs. So.. Your options are: 1. Go to a car stereo place, and see if they can program aftermarket fobs in. 2. Locksmith. 3.. Just get the OEM. There is no cheap option for this. Being that are car's are 25 years old, it might be a good idea to get the OEM simply for the sake of having an OEM part as they are only going to get harder to come by in the future. Getting my spare keys made cost me about $400 bucks from a locksmith. And that's with Insurance. So I made sure to never lose my keys again. Let me see what I can come up with on getting an aftermarket Fob to work. Sadly, the best source of this just went down last year, (PT Cruiser links Forums) The Mopar site is pretty knowledgeable about these, but as you know, many of us are going the way of the Dodo bird, any many of us have let go of our cars as they are 24 years old at this point. Allpar may have some Info on this as well. The only cheap option I can think of is to get pre Programed Fobs based on your VIN. I have tried swapping the RKE, but if you do that, you will run into some issues I heard. So don't do that with a Junkyard car with fobs, but I have not had any luck getting my Fob to work anymore. And have had issues with it for a while now. Probably some other kind of issue down the line like the lock sensors etc.. You can go Aftermarket, and tap into the Lock and unlock of the RKE, and that stuff is on any 12Volt Car audio and Alarm site. That would be the CHEAPEST way to get there to get the functionality you desire. Some Alarm systems are able to talk on the CAN Bus (SAE Data bus for us I think) and just work that way so its plug and play. But that's all I know. If you plan to keep the PT as its actually a really cool car now compared to what's out there? (And the Car Won't Track you or ask you for a Data Plan or GPS plan etc) then I would look into getting a factory scan tool that allows you to deep dive in all this stuff and program and do as you please, just like the Chrysler tech Boys do at the shop. That way, you know you can keep the old gal going for YEARS to come. These systems may be old, but they seem to be built to last, so having a way to work on them is going to important in the future. There are a LOT of other systems that will give you headache that you really can't easily duplicate with an Aftermarket ECU / BCM. (Seat belt / Airbag / etc) If you have a stick shift? This make that process easier, but still not perfect. If I hear anything, I will comeback and post it here or make forum post on any of the Forum sites. Hope that helps in somewhay.

@@MickeyMishra I did get OEM keys and fobs but my one local dealer said they couldn't communicate to program the fobs. I don't think they tried very hard.

Walmart of all places! Still works great! They KEY thing is to get it to you without the driver or delivery guy smashing the box up as its heavy. Best to do a Pick up at the store if you can. I also got a refurb unit. The first unit was borked with plastic parts in the shipping box. I have to tell ya, THIS THING PUMPS OUT COLD AIR! Sure its not whisper silent, but I paid for cold and filtered air. Does the JOB amazing. Just make sure to get the drains for the hoses at Home depot and a bucket or pan for it.

As much as I hate to say this, they were just okay in my application. Installing them is the hard part as you really need to 3D print to match the basket. The trick if you want to do it on the cheap and cheerful, is just to use soft putty around the basket. But for my perfect flush install into the sail panels? I could not make them fit. Stuck with the dome Midranges. Sound quality is fine. But if you look closely? The Tinsel leads made contact with the driver on Xmax if ran with a 6dB slope in my application. Admittedly, I was pushing them quite hard in testing, so you may not have that problem. It really amazed me how good they sound and how well i got them integrated.

Portland, Oregon.

Well, that would be: 1. the UBER driver in front with a dash cam. (He almost hit) 2. The Camera installed at the intersection that caught it. 3. the 15 people at the Apartment construction site that saw it happen less than 100 feet away. 4. One of them in his car watching the whole thing on break just ~35 feet away. 5. The truck that came by that the driver almost hit in the intersection as he was trying to run a red light. 6. Need I go on? Showing people video of someone BEING ran over goes against the TOS of TH-cam, allegedly of course.

I will have to dig it out of storage. It's been years, but I think BigD or another person might have went over this amplifier on their channel. No promises, but I will put it on my calendar and try to get around to it. BigD did a Bluetooth Model of this and its almost exactly the same minus the Bluetooth input.

گرم میشه 😒😒😒😒🤧🤧🤧💩💩💩💩💩💩بلاپونتک

2001 Officially. However, its REAL Build date was 2000 as it was one of the FIRST series of cars. In fact? I imported mine from Canada to be the FIRST to Purchase it in Washington. Mine is a Oddball.

If you put it on one of those Trays that is able to collect the water? That will work. Still a mess to clean and drain with a shop vac. Elevating the unit is the best idea. that way it can rain into a bottle and it's easy to empty that. My unit did not come with the Hoses. So I made some from parts from the Auto Parts store of real rubber hoses. I have not tried to contact the company to see if they have a hose drain kit. Would be nice. Never seen it out in the wild. And did not come with my unit.

Frag man! Let me see what can do when I get back from my Friday night. I will Try to post it later on another platrform if need be. Thanks for letting me know. -iMickey503

Explain. I have an FSM here that outlines this very procedure.

After doing it 8 times? Yes. I am what you call a SLOW learner. Meaning? I kept doing it till I got it PERFECT. So it took me about a month to get it timed just like in the FSM. I Bloody hated doing it. But nothing good is easy. A month later? I shorted out my ECU. So I have to install a new one of those. Already have one all programmed and ready to go. I really have been dragging my feet. Plus got my foot ran over by a LYFT driver. So got to take it easy for a while. Have a good weekend!

How did that work for you?

None. Ran it for months. No problems. But the stuff on my house is made in Good old USA. MURRICA! FUG YEA!!!🤗 lol! I heard rumors about this, but I think that's from the single hose units as they work 3x as hard and the heat from the single pipe systems really gets up there.

I'm not German. 😉 So I just buy the value pack of C clips at Hazard Fraught. But I DID find the OEM. Its a square as its more secure and lasts longer WITH the OEM plastic bushings as they degrade... But it's like 100x more expensive! CLIP. Moulding. Gear Shift Cable Retaining. Part Number: 06501326 Supersession(s): 6501326 parts.chryslerjeepdodgecityofmckinney.com/p/CLIP-Moulding-Gearshift-Cable-Retaining/42258169/06501326.html I have a caliper, but I have not measured it. Not sure if its Metric or Standard. Best place to ask would be on PT cruiser forums as the one dude knows everything as he's had 6 of them. The above info is from : Chrysler Jeep Dodge City Of McKinney 700 S Central Expy, McKinney, TX, 75070 (214) 544-4505 These are what I used so if I lose one? No big deal. Harbor Freight C clips are $6.99 for a large assortment. www.harborfreight.com/300-piece-e-clip-assortment-67653.html?campaignid=19160196846&adsetid=143798240586&product=67653&store=46&gclid=CjwKCAjwyqWkBhBMEiwAp2yUFgnwWxsZDMVGb7DkqywIDfXWzkwV_miKf-hlp2kXjtl1tJd1ao4S_RoCHpMQAvD_BwE If you don't just want to shoot for the Booger Bushings? You can go to home depot and use the SOLID plastic / Nylon bushings. They are white. Cost about 1.20 for two of them. And you will have to sand them down a bit to fit. They will last the life of the Shift cable. Or may just outlive the car. If they keep falling out on ya? They have these locking "Grub screws" with a small allen bolt that locks it to the top of the Boss on the transmission as a last resort if its to worn or warped for a C clip to attach securely . Hope that helps. Sorry, I could not find anything about the size of the clip. But the ones from H.F. Worked for me just fine for about 3 years so far.

Sorry dude. I better take this one down and redo it. THanks for letting me know. Its been a while since I looked at any of these. I should have more time after I take care of some Medical stuff and after my face heals. I kind of broke it in 7 places. Have a good one! -iMickey503

@@MickeyMishra no problem

G3 400. B&W OG 350. G4 (Forgot the one) I plan to give most of these away in the future. Moving to Russia or some other place thats cool. Weird right? Like 100k of stuff I got to give away in the future before my move.

From the front of the head. I was able to seal it with RTV and its been bone dry. All this work? And now the Electrical system is shot. I'm got all the stuff. Even a Pre-FLashed ECU. I just kind of gave up on the car. Mechanically? Its perfect. I do need a throw out bearing. THe clutch shop forgot to replace it. The leak is from the front half of the cylinder head. The cylinder heads are different from 2001-2002 TO 2003-Later. I was able to modify my 2003 Cylinder head to make it work with ZERO issues after I fixed the front oil leak. Even did the Timing belt myself. PERFECT! Overall? I might just get rid of it. I'm sort of sick of messing with it.

Hey I’m Wondering how is the car working? Is it still going without having it Unplugged?

It came like that. However, I have done a Modification to use a 3.7v Power supply and even a 4.2v Lithium Ion Battery and it still functions just fine. Though its pretty hard on the controler without a resistor change. But it works. The issues with these is that they do have quite a few with BUM Leds. So have a few on hand. They are surface mount. So you will need a hot air station to work the board. The stock battery is less then 200Mah. So if you want it to last all night long? You need a larger battery capacity. Problem is that the Solar cell is limited in output. Works great on cloudy days. If you want to Modifuy these> Get an old Nokia charger. Some old ethenet cables or some Magnet wire. Hard wire all of them to the 3.7v supply direct to the battery terminals. The length of wire will be enough to drop the voltage along with the Awg of wire. Its the only way to keep them running from Dusk till dawn Otherwise they last about 4-5 hours. About 3 hours at FULL intensity. After you do all this hard wiring? Coat the board with something and never worry about them again till the cheap LED's fail. I bought them by the box. And so far? I have had a 20% failure rate.

My windows were to small. I had to custom fab some since the windows I was working with are the small sliding kind on the lower level.

What Year?

Do you have a video of the noise? Take your phone with a stereo microphone setup (If it has it) and then record the noise on startup and by revving the engine. Take the phone with the microphone and then go from side to side of the wheel wells, the bottom of the engine and the top also going to side and front and back of the top of the engine. What it could be if it is a rattling sounds? It could be a loose exahst header flange. Broken engine mounts. Bad CV JOINT. The Timing belt pensioner pulley The Serpintine drive belt tensiner pullery Worn cam lobes or cam buckets (Doubtfull as I have never seen it happen) Broken / Cracked flex plate or bolts are coming lose out of the flex plate And that's pretty much about it I can think off on the top of my head. *MISFIRE* Without any doubt it is worn spark plugs. Do the DIS ingnittion system coil and name brand plugs. Auroua in Canada and one company in the USA (I think Mallory) make spark plug wires that last a lifetime and have great spark energy with great EMI rejection of the carbon plugs. After that there is the Cam sensor, and the engine block crank sensor and wires. MAKE SURE THE WIRES ARE SOUND! Or else your just going to be putting in parts you don't need. With the age of these cars? The wires like to get chewed on and corrded after all these years. Also depending on your year, there are 2 types of cam sensors. They are NOT interchangable. They will both "WORK" but they will not work WELL. It could be the cause of your misfire. Check out the PT crusier forums and post all the info of your car. There are only about 10 die hard guys on the forum and thy will be HAPPY to answer and troubleshoot the issue. Just put in all the right info of your car just like you would (Minus the VIN) at a shop, and they can help you out. THE MORE INFO ON MODEL YEAR< FEATURE ETC? The more we know how to help you out. Hope that heps. Sorry, a bit tippys from the Pub. HAVE A GOOD ONE!