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Glad it helped, all the best 👍

@@fadhisahi1275 Hello mate, have a look on CMPO, chinese motorcycle parts online, they list a luggage rack for the Isca, part number LGRB028 👍

Apologies no that's wrong. It's just the bracket that the original handles bolt to. My mistake, looks like they don't do a luggage rack for that bike sorry

@@sekaf4125 Glad it helped and thanks for the tip, will do that next time 👍

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 I really do appreciate the how to’s. I live in Island in Southeast Alaska so this is very helpful.

@@sekaf4125 oh wow, well I'm afraid if the bike does need any work by me I won't be able to collect it but I'm more than happy to help out here if you need to know anything 😁

@@DE-jk6rd I would start with the basics first, check the air filter isn't clogged, spark plug, valve clearances etc. It sounds like its not getting enough fuel if its dying when the throttle is opened or too much air which could be a split in the carburettor diaphragm or a bad inlet manifold not sealing properly. Could also be vacuum fuel pump as shown in the video. It's hard to say without seeing it but go through a process of elimination and I'm sure you'll find the problem 👍

@@Dreadlock_Kickboxer I've got access to lexmoto technical data and even that doesn't show oil capacity for euro 4 which is handy isnt it 🤔 Euro 5 is exactly 1 litre and that engine code is 157fmi so I think if yours is the same I would go for 1 litre as well

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 appreciate the reply my guy!

Hey bud, question about the brakes on these if that's cool?! My friend with much more motorcycle mechanical knowledge said he'd do the brake fluid with me. I have zero rear brake now. I'm assuming this is do to with thr linked brake system. What's the correct order order /procedure for bleeding these?! We bled the rear nipple then tried the front banjo bolt near the forks whilst pumping the rear brake. Any advice would be mega 🙏

@@Dreadlock_Kickboxer hmm, they can be tricky to bleed. There is a bleed nipple on the front caliper which is connected to the rear brake, the front caliper has 3 pistons, top and bottom are front brake and middle is rear brake, the top bleed nipple is for the front brake and the lower one is rear brake. I'm lucky and I've got a vacuum bleeder so I can pull the fluid through really fast from the rear brake fluid reservoir to the front caliper but you might be ok pumping it through with the pedal if you do it fast enough. The problem is the air likes to sit at the top of the line. Worst case is to remove the front caliper and lift it as high as you can to let the air bubbles travel upwards naturally, hope that helps

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 solid reply. Thank you so much my dude!

@@tm9853 very kind, love you too 😊

@@nickstanford3552 Very kind thankyou, I hope you get it sorted 👍

You are a diamond geezer! Problem solved. Do more of this. You deserve an Oscar for your delivery, explanation and teaching skills! Absolutely brilliant.

@@nickstanford3552 Haha that's great news, really glad it helped, thanks for letting me know, it makes it worthwhile, all the best and enjoy the ride 👍

You're very welcome 🙂

How do you mean? There isn't a sump as such on these little engines

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 location of what to undo to drop oil

Could be lots of things, did the bike work ok before?

No it's not good is it, no wonder these bikes don't last very long 😁

Electrics can be a minefield on some of these older bikes, good luck finding the problem 👍

Not precisely but way less than a litre

I put some grease back in there, I should have said in the video but yes there should be grease there 👍

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 Thank you sir

Hello there, I use 10w40 semi synthetic motorcycle oil here, has to be motorcycle oil for the wet clutch 👍

Yeah good point and thanks for watching. The drain plug on the Isca is right at the bottom and im sure i get almost all of it drained out when i work on these, no doubt there will be a tiny bit left behind but even so, only getting 500ml in there and showing halfway up the window cant be right and i think the engine is tilted slightly forward from the factory making it look ok when really its not. I'm up to 3 top end rebuilds for customers now on Iscas alone due to oil starvation but other bikes which share the same engine seem to be ok, definitly something to keep an eye on.

ah could be a common issue, only thing i can suggested is top it up, run it for 20 mins, let it rest and recheck the level. @@motorcyclerevivaluk741

Hmm, iv had this before with another one, try taking the pipe off that connects the crankcase to the airbox and seeing how it runs, if smoke pours out of the crankcase breather then it's new barrel and piston time unfortunately. Warranty should still be valid in my opinion

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 I contacted them and they said because its only had one service it should be on its 4th, they think it wouldn't get the warranty

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 they is no smoke just a puff of air

@@m111kca4 ok did the bike run any better with that pipe disconnected from the airbox or just the same?

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 since I've disconnected and tested with it and without it now will idle by itself while warming up. Aslong as I don't rev it so I'm quite happy with that

Glad it helped, let me know exact model and year and I can tell you fork oil specs 👍

Awesome thanks for fast reply I have Yamaha for 250 2kr 1989 or 90 mine a import so they stamp new year on it thanks again Mick

Ok I believe the fork specs are the same as for the 3LN model which would be 10w fork oil at 390ml in each fork and a final measurement of 106mm from the top of the fork tube down to the oil level, this would be without the spring and tube fully down, hope it helps 👍

MUCH thanks for the information

That doesn't sound good, the fuel must be going somewhere. If you can't see anything leaking out to the floor then check your oil level to make sure it isn't finding its way into the engine and mixing with the oil. It definitely needs investigating

Hope it helps 👍

It should pump at idle, maybe more so because there is more vacuum at idle. Did the bike work ok before or has it been off the road for a while?

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 yes I believe it worked correctly before it sat.

@@shanemyers4142 ok, if it worked ok before i would probably look inside the carburettor to make sure all is well. A good clean up inside and blow out the jets and check any rubber diaphragms for splits

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 I got to thinking. There is a brass colored washer around the main jet. Have you ever seen those fail before. I'm wondering if fuel is getting passed the washer maybe and it's flooding it. I've been looking on line to see if one has failed on someone before to see what the symptoms would be but havnt found anybody yet.

@@shanemyers4142 they don't normally fail but it's worth cleaning as much as possible inside the emulsion tube where the main jet goes into, there are tiny holes in that tube that should be clear. Also if you have the carbs open it's a good time to test the needle valves are allowing the fuel in and also stopping it when needed. Just blow into the fuel line and flip the carbs upside down and make sure the floats move and stop the flow of air. How was the condition of the rubber diaphragms in the top of the carbs?

It shouldn't be restricted from the factory, in my case it was an aftermarket part that had the restriction and caused my problem. If you're having similar symptoms to mine I would start with checking all your vacuum pipes for leaks or splits or loose fitting and then check the intake rubber boot to make sure it's sealing nicely around the carburettor and also good seal to the cylinder head. Hope it helps and let us know how you get on 👍

Okay yea I took boot off and doesn't seem restricted. Going to check hoses, o rings, and seals for vacume leaks and see what I find out on it. I noticed that the pump is pumping again. That's confusing me.

Thankyou 👍

Hi Graham, very hard to say without seeing it but lots to check. If the valve clearances are slightly too tight it could cause a lack of compression which could be it or you could try spraying some easy start or brake cleaner around the inlet manifold with the bike running to see if the revs rise which would indicate an air leak. Also the simple things like a dirty air filter or a worn out spark plug is worth checking. If all that is ok then maybe the carburettor mixture is too lean in which case and little 1/4 turn or so anticlockwise on the mixture screw might help smoothen it out. I would think that as it runs ok when out on the road that the fuel pump doesn't sound like the problem. It's a big list but hopefully it helps you out

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 I rechecked the valve clearances and they were fine. I replaced the rotten hoses on the fuel pump in the tank and checked the pump diaphragm. I thought the rotten hoses were the problem as now much better fuel flow to the carb. But alas every time I give it wide open throttle for a few seconds once I shut off, slowing up coming up behind traffic or approaching a roundabout, as soon as I try and open the throttle again it dies.

Have you looked in the top of the carburettor to check the condition of the rubber diaphragm for splits and that its seated correctly? You can check the needle jet at the same time to make sure its ok. Also I believe your carb has a pump jet which should spray a small amount of fuel directly into the carburettor when opening the throttle, you should be able to see it spray if you can remove the air filter pipe and look straight into the carburettor whilst quickly opening and closing the throttle.

I honestly don't know but I would imagine yamaha would only sell the complete unit and I bet it's not cheap

Thanks Maurice, hopefully it will help or least point you in the right direction. Its always worth checking all your vacuum pipes for leaks first before changing the pump. Good luck 👍

Pleasure, thanks for the comment 👍

No that fuel is exactly how it should be. It supplies the carburettor and the excess fuel will flow back into the petrol tank which you can see when you look into the pipe where you fill your bike with fuel. Hope it helps

Can you give more information? There are lots of possibilities

Glad it helped you 👍

@@motorcyclerevivaluk741 finally, so good to drive without stalling:D

Good luck 👍