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When you connect the device to the local network then go back into the WiFi menu it displays the allocated IP that your network gave to the device. That way when you disconnect from the device and connect to your local network you can then find the device on your local network at that IP address. However by opening the control App it will automatically find any devices on your network that haven’t yet been added to your account so you don’t really need the IP address unless your connecting to it without the Shelly Control Software.

@@richardhaywoodh I think you may need to do a a factory reset on the Shelly device and reinstall it again?

@@chrisfairbrother9197 yes - did it and it was the answer

I think there is a facility to program the unit so that the switch is latching? I’ve not tried it myself. I think it’s under a label canned ‘ Button ‘

@DMBHomes thank you, I'll give it a go.

@@utubejester No , it has an internal battery and reconnects to the wifi as it was previously. You can however program the switch state as you require after a power failure to either default in “on , off or as it was prior to power loss”

@@balsanghera Thanks so much Buddy - That was an instant fix. Awesome 🙌

@@dean9585 thanks for the feedback 👍

You're welcome!

Yes Shelly do a unit that doesn’t need a neutral here is a link for it buddy;- It’s a dimmable switch but you don’t have to use the dimming functionality. It will work without a neutral though. I’ve also done a video on this switch. See my channel uploads. amzn.to/4fLlNFp

@@lucaviggiani2189 I believe you have to upgrade to the premium version of the Shelly control app in order to have the facility of scheduled switching. Alternatively use a local timed relay with time and date facility. This could sit on the din rail of your consumer unit or in its own control box?

@@DMBHomes Thanks

Your very welcome, I started this channel for this exact reason. No idea why this company provides such poor tech support material and zero training. They are seriously limiting their market? I’m hoping to grow this channel to help create a library of basic installation tech videos and then hopefully links to products online. Please help by sharing, subscribing and giving me your feedback. Cheers

@@DMBHomes It is bizarre that Shelly appear to be marketed towards a tech person, but you'd need to be an experienced electrician to know how to do it. The paradox is that a typical spark isn't that interested in smart home stuff, they know the real electric knowledge you could say. Without your video though, there's no way I would have figured out the wiring, I just thought there was incoming mains, then out going switched supply out of "0" and "l". If they had just said that the incoming L & N were to power the Shelly and that you need a live through "0" and "l", with a N directly to the device, it would have saved me hassle. Your videos are needed and I wish you the best with making more and will certainly share/subscribe. You could put some more polish on your videos, like ensuring phone screenshots are rotated correctly and having screen in screen - but to be honest, you supply the info needed, so that's the main thing! Just to protect your behind though, do state somewhere that it should be done by a competent person / qualified electrician, just in case. 👍

@@sizzle5 The reason is because it’s the Shelly device that is controlling the circuit. You can’t have two devices controlling the same circuit. The Shelly device has an input to manipulate the circuit locally and that is just a live signal not a variable voltage so a local dimmer does not work in this system only a push to make contact that offers the control signal to the Shelly devices input terminal.

The Shelly 1 relay is “Normally Open” meaning the connections marked “ I “ & “ O “ are not connected together unless the connection SW receives a Live input from the switch. Only when the SW connection receives a Live Input do the connections “ I & O” join together.

@@josecarlosdelacal5806 I can only give you an opinion but obviously without investigating the job myself it’s impossible to diagnose the problem. First of all the Shelly 1 is a latching relay. It’s designed to switch something on / off. You mention that your motor keeps running after you switch the relay off which implies that you are using the Shelly out put a voltage into a trigger point on a motor control unit. If this is a garage door or blind then it may need a stop voltage or an open or close trigger voltage to activate. Potentially you could be requiring 3 inputs. Eg an open command voltage , a close command voltage and possibly a motor stop command voltage? Shelly do provide a device for motor control as the Shelly 1 is probably not the correct device for the job?

@ the bus bar has volt drop and the further away from the meter tail the load is and the greater the load the greater the volt drop. Volt drop effects all circuits fed from bus bar. Sorry you are wrong and it’s good basic to put all the larger loads closer to the incomer.

@@kevanswift7797 Voltage drop in this context is more dependent on the length and size of the cables running from the distribution board to the load, not the position of the RCBO within the board. Within the distribution board itself, the difference in distances is negligible and won’t significantly affect voltage drop.

@ voltage drop is I x R the greater the load (I) the greater the voltage drop on any small resistance as said just good practice to put all heavy loads nearer incomer, so to minimise voltage drop on busbar no matter how small the volt drop is

Good practice to put the highest load nearer to the main switch. However there's no regulation that states it's mandatory. Niglon is absolute carp though. ​@@kevanswift7797

@@DMBHomesit’s nothing to do with voltage drop it to to with heat the heavier the the hot the the breaker will get .

Your Welcome - Hope it helped 👍

Also tried another dimmer and wired it the same way. That second one does have a red light when wired, but when I turn the lights on with that Shelly, the light shuts down after 1 second and the shelly just reboots :/

My advice :- Turn off the power to the circuit, wait 30 seconds - Turn the power back on and within a minute go to the light switch on the wall and click it on/off quickly about 10 times until the lights flicker. Then try to reconnect directly to the Shelly device and recalibrate. Remember to set the min dim level to somewhere around 15% as often dimming below this threshold cause the problems you mention. If that doesn’t work then I’m afraid you’ll need to contact Shelly customer support - Good luck

I figured it out why, but no solution yet. The "Power on default" of the Dimmer is set to "On". But when I switch on the Dimmer, it instantly shuts down and reboots. So I'm stuck in an endless loop ... I figured it out because I switched this setting to on on the second dimmer too so now I have 2 unusable dimmers.

I’m sorry buddy , I think this might be one for Shelly Support email? It’s hard to diagnose without seeing what you’re doing exactly. Best of luck mate

@@DMBHomes managed to reset them by connecting them to a Live and neutral elsewhere in the house where I do have a neutral available. That way it remained powered and I could reset the settings 🙂 Guess i'll have to get me a bypass to get it working.

I’m sure there is a way you can use this, unfortunately I’m not exactly sure what you mean but if you message me details I may be able to assist? Cheers Gareth Find me on dmbhomesuk@gmail.com

@GordonRae-g4k you’re welcome buddy

Thanks for the feedback, I’ll do more of these now I know they are helping people 👍

@DMBHomes definitely helped me thanks again ☺️

You're welcome!

@@joetilsed It took about 12 months to build but we had some planning delays that slowed us down otherwise it would have been about 9 months. The house was valued at £850k by agents but we sold it for £750k in order to move onto another project. Sometimes less today means more tomorrow. Our buyers had the sale of the century. Best wishes Gareth

Coming soon! ❤

Here you go !! 2 way switching 😊 th-cam.com/video/bdM8VMswJEA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tv2ZkiAvZeY4PmVv

Thanks 🙏🏼

Thank you, yes it is because the unit was in the off position. No power being used. When you activate the relay it can monitor the circuit and shows the power consumption. That way the control App can monitor the overall power usage of devices within the Control app for statistical analysis. On the Shelly 2 dimmer product it uses this power consumption as a way of calibrating the circuit so that the dimming functionally matches the circuit parameters. I’m not entirely sure if all the Shelly devices have this circuit monitoring feature so it may just be that the Shelly 1 does not have this capability & may always show 0 W ?? You’ll have to explore that sorry.

Thanks

Calibration is for the Shelly unit to identify the load on the circuit and then it calibrates the dimming capability. Also some circuits you need to adjust the minimum sim level to 10-15% to avoid it flickering or going off. Your LED strip could be more voltage so by doing the mains power will have no effect on the LED itself?

@@DMBHomes I’ll try today the calibration. MY powersupply output is 24v and led is 24v also. My led and power supply work well with a simple wheel dimmer.

⁠The dimming technology for your 24v PSU could be different from the dimming technology used by the Shelly 2 product? The Shelly 2 uses trailing edge dimming which is standard for mains powered LED lights however most 24v leds powered by 24v psu’s require analogue traditional dimming so may not be compatible with the Shelly 2.

@@DMBHomes i just returned the Shelly dimmer devices , and purchased Shelly 0-10 volt. Since PSU also supports 0-10 v input. Fingers crossed.

🤔 Maybe my camera wasn’t working well in the dark upstairs but can’t be to sure 😂😂

He defo left the power on as the lights in the hallway are on, but notice he used all high voltage insulated tools and kept his pinkies away from the live bits. I’ve seen many sparkys work like this sometimes it’s just easier especially these days where some customers might have NAS servers or computers for home automation that need to stay on. All that said …. Turn the power off 😂 Thanks for the video about to install 4 to replace my stupid Tuya bulbs that are forever falling off the network

@ of course no hate at all…!! I’m all for learning and do some of the basic wiring of smart devices myself at home even though I’m not a sparky. Although go to some groups for support and they’re just bashing anyone who’s not a sparky even though they themselves are amateurs most of the time 🤣 Love these videos and they’re much clearer than diagrams. I find them easier to follow.